in Europe we have 220VAC - we have a nice Screwdriver-Test-Lamp (see upper right corner of the JPG). We put the tip of the screwdriver into one socket of the house-wall-outlet - then we put the thumb onto the end of the screwdriver --- IF (if, if) the little lamp in the screwdriver lights up (dim light) - we are allowed to say: THIS is the HOT side (((if the lamp does not light up we are not allowed to say: This is not HOT, professional electricians very much dislike these screwdrivers))).
A thing not related with the topic / problem "replacing a 110VAC cord on this Doodle Bug" --- I want to show "DANGER - Gottlieb pins are wired different than Williams / Bally pins".
Whenever I work on a pin: I toggle-off and unplug the main power cord - so I am save. I ONLY plug-in / toggle-on when I do a test needing electricity.
Williams / Bally and Gottlieb have the same situation on the 110VAC-side of the transformer: House-Outlet-HOT comes to fuse comes to toggle-switch comes to transformer-HOT-side.
On the secondary (24VAC (Bally 50 VAC) ) side of the transformer there is a BIG difference:
Williams and Bally run the HOT side to fuse to coils (my red lines). Williams and Bally have the switches in the "wiring back to transformer-24/48VAC-Neutral."
Gottlieb runs HOT side to fuse to switches (many switches many wires) - then to coils. Gottlieb then has a direct connection to "back to transformer-24VAC-Neutral".
See my JPG (on top the Williams, on the bottom the Gottliebs). Greetings Rolf