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(Topic ID: 184065)

Doodle Bug Power Card Wiring Help Needed


By JOESCHALL

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 29 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Boise_D
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 3 years ago

I have my first EM, Doodle Bug, and the original cord has been cut off. I want to replace it with a modern cord with a ground. Picture is attached, with the original brown power cord running to a brown wire on the left and a yellow wire on the right. To the left of all this is a green wire marked "ground wire."

I can desolder the old cord and solder the new cord onto the lugs for the brown and yellow wires easily, but I don't understand electricity well enough to know which of the brown and yellow wires is the power and which is the neutral. Also, I assume that I can just solder the ground from the new cord onto the lug for the green wire.

Can someone please tell me if it's a safe option to solder on all three wires from a new cord, and, if so, which cord wire goes to brown and which to yellow? I'm hoping that a Doodle Bug owner will know, or that someone can explain to me how to test the wires for power and neutral (I have a meter, but I'm a novice at using it), or that it doesn't matter which wires go to which, as long as the ground goes to green (a dangerous assumption?). I'd be very grateful for the help.

DB Wiring (resized).jpg

#3 3 years ago

Thanks for the reply. That helps a bit.

#8 3 years ago

Thanks so much for these replies. They are helping me piece things together. More advice is appreciated if anyone has any.

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from Runbikeskilee:

You want the hot line from the power cord to connect to the fused line that runs to the power switch. In the snippet of the Doodle Bug schematic that Rolf has posted, this is denoted as a yellow wire. PLEASE VERIFY THAT THE YELLOW WIRE INDEED GOES TO THE LINE FUSE!. If it does, then the hot wire connects to the yellow wire. The power cord hot wire will be the line that comes from the small-prong opening of the receptacle. In the US, the small prong opening is always on the right side of the outlet. With the power cord not plugged in, you can verify this with a multi-meter set for continuity check or for resistance check.
What is confusing, is that Rolf's schematic shows the neutral wire as being black, where your machine seems to have a brown wire emerging from the wiring bundle??? Not sure what to make of that difference.

The yellow wire from the schematic indeed goes the 10 amp fuse (then to red, then purple, then the transformer), so that's easy to verify as the power. However, the brown and yellow wires in my Doodle Bug (as pictured at the top of the post) are far from the transformer--they're halfway back in the cabinet--so I still have to figure out which is hot and which is neutral between them. Maybe I can physically trace them to the transformer and figure it that way, but I'm still not sure.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

I assume you have a multimeter. Test for continuity from the 10 amp fuse holder yellow wire to your hookup locations. Remove the fuse first to be sure. (Unplugged of course!)

A very helpful suggestion--thanks!

1 week later
#19 3 years ago
Quoted from freddo30:

One reason that it's critical to have correct polarity in this particular game is that a bridge rectifier is utilized to convert AC to DC in order to provide sufficient oomph to start the doodle bug feature. Incorrect switching of hot/com will destroy said bridge rectifier. The protective fuse will immediately blow and the feature will be rendered inoperative.

An excellent tip!

So thanks to all of you for this detailed advice, and I'll close out this thread now with an update. Reading the above cautions and consulting with some other pinball friends makes me realize that it won't be wise for me to put in a new power cord on my own. A friend from out of town with EM and electronics experience has agreed to visit sometime and help me get this job done properly. That way we can test the transformer as well, and we can wire the hot side directly to the power switch and ground the cord to the mounting plate. So I'll wait for him to help me, and plan to update this thread with the results.

Again, thanks to all!

2 months later
#23 3 years ago

Thanks so much for the detailed reply. I did just hook up a new three-pronged plug to the wiring in the first picture: hot to yellow, neutral to brown, and green to ground. Switched on the game and got a light buzzing, but that's it--no GI and no motors running. No fuses blown either. So back to the drawing board, but at least I have power. I'll read up more on grounding as well. My machine also has a marked ground wire at the transformer.

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from mg81:

Joe, I did not realize you were having such issues with the doodle bug. I would have stopped by to take a look at it.
No GI is not a good sign if the fuses are good. Have you put your multI meter on the various inputs and outputs of the transformer to verify power is going in and something close to the right volts are coming out?

Thanks, mg81. Up to this point I've been disassembling, cleaning, replacing broken parts, and reassembling. Now that I have the power cord in I'm ready to start troubleshooting, and I'm absolutely lousy with a meter--my knowledge stops at fuse testing. Yes, please do come by when you have time and educate me. I replaced the destroyed lock relay, so the lock relay switch stack could be worth a look as well.

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