(Topic ID: 336766)

Dolly wont boot after playfield swap

By khizzlekougs

11 months ago


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#1 11 months ago

Hello, I just did my first ever playfield swap and it looks gorgeous, however When I turn the game on:
1. it buzzes, 6 green lights from MPU
2. Fuse F4 blows immediately.
3. Upper playfield lights come on and nothing else.

Pin connectors dont look lose or burnt.
I dont see any loose wires under playfield.

Im concerned I screwed up the Ground/GI wire somewhere along the lines- like the bare stuff stapled to the playfield. Does anyone have that mapped out or a pic of it?
Also Im super new at this and just getting comfortable with a multimeter. Happy to learn, would love any helpful direction.
Thanks in advance!

#2 11 months ago
Quoted from khizzlekougs:

Hello, I just did my first ever playfield swap and it looks gorgeous, however When I turn the game on:
1. it buzzes, 6 green lights from MPU
2. Fuse F4 blows immediately.
3. Upper playfield lights come on and nothing else.
Pin connectors dont look lose or burnt.
I dont see any loose wires under playfield.
Im concerned I screwed up the Ground/GI wire somewhere along the lines- like the bare stuff stapled to the playfield. Does anyone have that mapped out or a pic of it?
Also Im super new at this and just getting comfortable with a multimeter. Happy to learn, would love any helpful direction.
Thanks in advance!

Measure the voltage at each test point on the rectifier board. 6 flashes I believe means it isn’t getting 43V. You will need to have one probe of the multimeter connected to ground and the other on the test point. The manual has what the voltages should be. Compare and report back.

#3 11 months ago

Actually, before you do that, with the machine OFF, check continuity with your multimeter between the ground wire at various points and the coils and other high voltage contacts. That may indicate whether you accidentally created a short to ground anywhere.

#4 11 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Actually, before you do that, with the machine OFF, check continuity with your multimeter between the ground wire at various points and the coils and other high voltage contacts. That may indicate whether you accidentally created a short to ground anywhere.

Nokoro

Ok, how do I do that exactly. again, Im super new.

#6 11 months ago

ok cool.
I tested the GI bare tinned wire and it beeps all through. Im still not sure I have it configured 100% correctly. I traced it on the old playfield but Im not confident I didn't miss a patch.
All my Solinoids are 3-11ohms and beeping too.
So continuity is good?!
Now what should I do?

#7 11 months ago

If your coils are getting continuity to ground you have a short, and that isn't right.

#8 11 months ago

F4 is your solenoid voltage fuse. You are assuming it's because of the playfield swap that the fuse is blowing but very well could be something else. Replace the fuse, disconnect connector J1 and J3 from the rectifier board and check TP5, you should get around 43v. If your voltage is good, reconnect J1 and J3, and unplug all the plugs from the solenoid driver board except for J3, see if the game will boot. If the fuse blows then you have a problem on your solenoid driver board.

#9 11 months ago
Quoted from Knxwledge:

F4 is your solenoid voltage fuse. You are assuming it's because of the playfield swap that the fuse is blowing but very well could be something else. Replace the fuse, disconnect connector J1 and J3 from the rectifier board and check TP5, you should get around 43v. If your voltage is good, reconnect J1 and J3, and unplug all the plugs from the solenoid driver board except for J3, see if the game will boot. If the fuse blows then you have a problem on your solenoid driver board.

Knxwledge

Thanks for this here is my results.
1. Disconnected J1 and J3 from rectifier and got 44volts testing TP5.
2. so I reconnected those and unplugged everything except J3 from Solenoid driver.
-Game booted up with 7 green lights on MPU. Fuses did not blow. It made a start up chime and then half/most the playfield lights were solid on and the score boards had action too.

So what does this mean? What should I do next?? I appreciate the help and direct explanation as I learn!

#10 11 months ago
Quoted from khizzlekougs:

Knxwledge
Thanks for this here is my results.
1. Disconnected J1 and J3 from rectifier and got 44volts testing TP5.
2. so I reconnected those and unplugged everything except J3 from Solenoid driver.
-Game booted up with 7 green lights on MPU. Fuses did not blow. It made a start up chime and then half/most the playfield lights were solid on and the score boards had action too.
So what does this mean? What should I do next?? I appreciate the help and direct explanation as I learn!

So with that you've determined your rectifier board is good, and your solenoid driver board is good. Next step would probably be to disconnect all solenoids on the playfield, then reconnect them one by one until you find which one blows the fuse. It's a PITA but if you don't see anything wrong you have to narrow the problem down somehow. Also, you said playfield lights are locking on. If you mean the controlled lights like under the inserts then that's not good. Likely a short somewhere with the braid causing them to get locked on.

#11 11 months ago

Wires swapped on one (or more) solenoids would cause this too, right? Might be able to visually inspect that all the right wires are on the correct side of the diode on solenoids.

#12 11 months ago

You probably have the 43v bus wire wired incorrectly or shorted to something. You can try pulling the playfield fuse and if the fuse does not blow then trace out the 30, (yellow) solenoid bus line and make sure it only goes where it is supposed to. It should daisy chain to all the playfield coils, soldered to the band side of the coil diodes.

#13 11 months ago

thanks everyone for the help. Following the yellow GI bus was the key! I had one solenoid soldered on opposite. Issue has been solved!

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