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(Topic ID: 269359)

Dolly Parton Troubleshooting


By jack2394

5 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by barakandl
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 5 months ago

Hey,

This is my first solid state game. I’ve worked on em’s before. I picked up a bally Dolly Parton game. I’ve been having issues getting it running and just looking for some advice.

There is no sound, the ball wont kick out when starting a game, flippers don’t work, and wrong solenoids are firing.

The left slingshot fires the drop target reset, the right slingshot is dead. The upper and lower bumper are dead. The middle bumper fires the saucer kick out and the saucer kick out seems to work.

There’s brand new alltek mpu, alltek solenoid driver, nvram soundboard and rectifier board. The only original board is the lamp driver, which seems to be working fine according to the diagnostics test.

From research I’m guessing the best start would be to install new molex connectors on the j4 on the mpu and solenoid board side?

#2 5 months ago

I think you need to adjust the 44DD switch. It usually takes two hands.

Sorry, couldn’t resist

#3 5 months ago
Quoted from Mikala:

I think you need to adjust the 44DD switch. It usually takes two hands.
Sorry, couldn’t resist

maybe replacing it with a 42dd switch may help haha

#4 5 months ago
Quoted from jack2394:

From research I’m guessing the best start would be to install new molex connectors on the j4 on the mpu and solenoid board side?

Yes, that won’t fix your sound or flipper woes, but should fix your solenoids.

#5 5 months ago

Are the correct dipswitch settings done for this game ? https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0071/0810/0141/files/dip_ver8.pdf?132

#6 5 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Yes, that won’t fix your sound or flipper woes, but should fix your solenoids.

I’m looking at the schematic. I see the j1 off a3 runs to the outhole, left and right flipper coil. Guessing possibly that could related to the issue? I’ll note all these molex connectors are original on mpu and the solenoid driver/regulator. I did order a kit off big daddy to redo them. I do have enough background in electronics to do it.

The plug connector chart helps a lot making sense of it.

#7 5 months ago

Yup correct dip switch settings. I ran the original mpu. It was delaminating, and had corrosion from the battery. Someone replaced a chip I believe with a wrong chip. There was a bunch of jumpers on it and the soldering wasn’t too great.

That being said, I had same results with the solenoids on the original mpu.

#8 5 months ago

Clearly can’t be a problem with the knockers.

Sorry, I’ll see myself out.

#9 5 months ago

wrong sound and solenoids is likely a momentary solenoid data problem. I'd suspect MPU J4 if both sound and solenoids have problems. Also driver J4 and sound J1. In the schematics check the signals labeled SOL-A to SOL-D (and SOL-E for the sound board comes from MPU J1 P7).

Quoted from dothedoo:

Yes, that won’t fix your sound or flipper woes, but should fix your solenoids.

Sound board uses most of the same signals as the solenoid driver board so very likely mpu j4 connector could be causing both issues.

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#10 5 months ago
Quoted from barakandl:

wrong sound and solenoids is likely a momentary solenoid data problem. I'd suspect MPU J4 if both sound and solenoids have problems. Also driver J4 and sound J1. In the schematics check the signals labeled SOL-A to SOL-D (and SOL-E for the sound board comes from MPU J1 P7).

Sound board uses most of the same signals as the solenoid driver board so very likely mpu j4 connector could be causing both issues.
[quoted image]

Awesome. I’m try repinning j4 when the kit gets here. Could that cause no sound at all either as well?

#11 5 months ago

I saw the thread title and I came here for the inevitable DP jokes. I was not disappointed.

Sorry, I hope you get her working.

#12 5 months ago
Quoted from jack2394:

Awesome. I’m try repinning j4 when the kit gets here. Could that cause no sound at all either as well?

if the sol/snd bank select is open circuit at MPU J4 yes.

#13 5 months ago

Took a look at j4 on the solenoid board and the first wire after the pin broke off. I’ll install a new connector on the mpu and sol and let you know the results. I assume it’s probably best to just redo all the original remaining connectors?

I’m guessing too the flippers and kickout are related to connector issues as well?

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#14 5 months ago

red wire out of the connector is going to make the wrong solenoids fire. check for similar problems at the sound board and MPU J4

1 week later
#15 4 months ago
Quoted from barakandl:

red wire out of the connector is going to make the wrong solenoids fire. check for similar problems at the sound board and MPU J4

J4 replacement solenoid board solved all the solenoid issues as well as the flippers which is awesome!

The game plays now other then the sound. I’m going to try rebuilding j1 on the sound board next

#16 4 months ago
Quoted from jack2394:

J4 replacement solenoid board solved all the solenoid issues as well as the flippers which is awesome!

The game plays now other then the sound.

Awesome. It's a sleeper, really. Lots of fun to shoot. I have been chasing 1 Mil in 3 Ball with Hard Settings for aboout 5 weeks!

#17 4 months ago
Quoted from barakandl:

red wire out of the connector is going to make the wrong solenoids fire. check for similar problems at the sound board and MPU J4

Is brown/blue wire supposed to terminal at the sound board? I see it is broken but I don’t see another half to go back up like the other wires.

CEB89FCC-A8DE-4ACE-A325-0B33FE103122 (resized).jpeg
#18 4 months ago
Quoted from barakandl:

red wire out of the connector is going to make the wrong solenoids fire. check for similar problems at the sound board and MPU J4

Also I double checked the voltages on the soundboard. Getting the 5, 43 voltages but 12 or 43 on the solenoid return. I’ve read that the 12v is derived from the 43.

Edit** swapped the original board back in. Same results 5, 43 but no 12 or 43 returns The replacement is nvram, and the original is a bally as-2888-4

#19 4 months ago
Quoted from jack2394:

Also I double checked the voltages on the soundboard. Getting the 5, 43 voltages but 12 or 43 on the solenoid return. I’ve read that the 12v is derived from the 43.
Edit** swapped the original board back in. Same results 5, 43 but no 12 or 43 returns The replacement is nvram, and the original is a bally as-2888-4

Make sure the isolated 43v return is connected to ground. May have to look at the wiring diagram. I can't remember if it goes to rectifier or sdb.

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