Hello!

I got my hands on a dirt cheap Dolly Parton pinball machine yesterday, the seller told me it had some connection problem somewhere which made it not function properly, and to show me tried to start it (it just made a low durr sound and did not light up).

Now i have it in my pinball room, and i reconnected every cable and and as soon as i flip the on-off switch, it takes out the fuse for my pinballroom right away.

What are my first targets to fix this? i checked the fusebox inside the pinball and 2 fuses was dead, fuse F4 (5AMP 250Volt) and fuse F5 (10AMP 250Volt), on the rectifier board fuse section.

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Well, i followed the cord and it arrives at this metal box, could that be some sort of a (ancient) fuse? i unscrewed it to read the text.

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Btw, what system is Dolly Parton? i tried to look for what type of system it is so i can search for parts, but i cant find anything.

so its a...Bally AS-2518-35? Ive looked there but where does it say which "system" Dolly Parton uses? Ya know, like Williams use for example, system 11?

Also, i may have found the issue, it seems to me that the 4 cables going to the Rectifier Board looked like they had been switched around, the ones the former owner had marked as "2 lower pin connectors under the fuses" with notes fit much much better on the two upper pin connectors, so i switched them around and got a much better fit.

Now i need a new 20A fuse and i can do a new test.

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Well, previous owner had very carefully marked every cable he had pulled out for me, except that the 2 cables that where connected to the Rectifier board where already pinned on the upper parts and wasnt part of the main cable that goes down into the cabinet, so he had only marked the other 2 that he had taken off the Rectifier board (it is hard to explain in english for me, but since now that i switched those 4 cables around, everything seems to fit perfectly, before that i always had 2 pins "over" when setting the cables and they didnt fit properly).

Which makes me suspect that those cables have been put in wrong when he had it and prob caused the problem that made him sell it cheap to me, he explained to me that it started blowing fuses suddenly and he never found out what did it.

And all of the cables are "one-way-only" fit and also been marked, i would have to force one in if it wasnt on its proper place, whichi never do.

Im gonna hunt down some fuses tomorrow monday, since i wanna be prepared for my second test.

That thread was actually very informative, thanks!

Now i have a clue on what to look at.

Also, 20 AMP fuse in a pinball? is that really true?

According to the Dolly manual fuse F5 on the Rectifier require a "20AMP, 32V, 3AG".

Anyway, i checked the electrical cable that plugs in the wall, it looks modern and have the European standard pins, no wear or tear on it the whole way to the filter box, so i will check into that MOV thing (but i will plug Dolly up through a multiextension cable tomorrow after i get some new fuses, to for now fix and "sudden surge" problems.)

Alright, got it to not drop the house fuse, and it starts up but it only lights the playfield and a couple of lamps on the backbox, and it feels like it wants to play something in the speaker but it just goes "Blupp", kinda.

I filmed the startup for ya, so you can see for yourself:

https://vid.me/MUdQ

the lamp on the board dont flash at all on Start-up, and seems to be weakly glowing, and the self-diagnostics button dont react at all.

the LED is in the red ring.

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OK, you have got a non-booting MPU board.
"Do you have a meter?"

Yes

"Can you solder?"

abit, but not an expert

"Do you have desoldering tools?"

Except the "solder vacuum" (dunno what you call it overseas, sucks up solder), no.

"Job #1 is to test all the voltages on the SDB board (the one with the giant heat sink). Look for the little test points marked TP1, TP4....."

Job #2 is to test all the voltages on the MPU board (the big one on the upper left)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing"

And here i thought the "Å" and that litle flagball right by my Avatar was clues enough

And i found a swedish site that sells Bally MPU boards too

http://www.free-play.se/produkter/elektronik/elektronikkort/75-84-ballystern-mpu-board.html

http://www.free-play.se/produkter/elektronik/elektronikkort/75-84-ballystern-led-lamp-driver.html

http://www.free-play.se/produkter/elektronik/elektronikkort/75-84-ballystern-solenoid-driver-board.html

no "Rectifier" though, but since things light up im ure that thing works atleast.

Are those the volts they are supposed to read?

almost forgot,

"Job #1 is to test all the voltages on the SDB board (the one with the giant heat sink). Look for the little test points marked TP1, TP4....."

whats volts should those run on, and what do they all do? also, i cannot find TP1 on the manual schematics, its prob in a very obvious place, but alas..

Thanks alot, im writing this up so i'll know when i start checking through them all tomorrow.

And yeah, i found it, DOH! im a total newbie on reading schematics

Ok, measured both the boards now.

Results:

SDB:

TP1= 4.1
TP2=189.2
TP3= 4.0
TP4=240
TP5=9.7

RECITIFER

TP1=5.9
TP2=176
TP3=9.8
TP4= 6.7 VAC
TP5=43.4

btw, values for these, do you have them also?

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Bros!

I found the error! the cable (red triangle on the picture of the backbox) that goes to the SDB card from the rectifier had a burned pinsocket, which i cleaned up and which seems to still be abit faulty, cuz i have to fiddle it to get the game going.

So now im gonna switch out that cable contact and also fix the switch for one of the sideway pointgivers (i think they are called), what kind of diode is supposed to sit on the EOS switch? mine is missing it seems, burned or popped off.

So atleast i know that it works now.

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Its a bad picture, i know, but on the lower pic i tried to take a good close-up shot of the EOS switch thats missing a...thing (im not sure whats supposed to sit there, i cannot see any text on the other ones.), here is a little better pic of it, its in the red circle in the furthest away EOS, the green circle shows the one of the others which are still there:

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It works a "scorepointer" in this part of the gamefield, which is at the moment now totally dead.

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