(Topic ID: 94295)

Dolly Parton No 43V Power to Playfield

By m00dawg

9 years ago


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  • 28 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by m00dawg
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#1 9 years ago

I've been trying to get a Dolly Parton working that was in pretty bad shape. The Solenoid and MPU boards were replaced with Alltek ones (they are awesome, by the way!) and the Power board was replaced with a rottendog. That has gotten it to the point where the lights and displays function but now I can't get 43V power to the playfield.

On the old power board, an orange wire was soldered right to it (in between J1 and J2) which I think could have been for 43V, but the orange wires I found on the playfield appeared to be for GI, so I didn't want to guess. The knocker works but it's the only solenoid that seems to (and it is charged with 43V) and it isn't on the playfield.

Finally, F1 on the Rottendog power board blew while I was testing something with my voltmeter (or I think anyway). I didn't have a 10A fuse to replace it, but that was for 5.4V? That wouldn't have anything to do with the solenoids would it? I'm not entirely sure what that is even for since the MPU board is definitely working with the 5V from the solenoid board.

Anyone have any thoughts given all that? I spent all day yesterday in a nasty ole bar trying to get this fixed. It's SOOO close but yet so far :/

#2 9 years ago

Start at the beginning.

Does the transformer put out 43v?

Does the power board have 43v after the fuse?

See the little test points on the power board?

#3 9 years ago

Bally wiring diagram in the manual should tell you where that orange wire goes....

Based on XP. That orange wire is probably the one that goes up to the driver board for 12v return that always burns on the 20pin rectifier plug.

If the game boots, and no solenoids have +43v, i bet the pf mounted fuse is blown. sometimes it is hard to see, usually around the flippers.

#4 9 years ago

Yep, Power board shows 43V as does the knocker on the bottom of the cabinet (which does work when testing using the Alltek CPU test add-on card). It's the playfield where I can't seem to find it. I kept testing the fuse every-time I tested a solenoid with a volt meter and it (mostly) remained unblown. I think a fast-blow was in there originally and I believe a slow-blow is required? Even with a repalcement fuse in-tact, though, I still don't get 43V.

The weird part is, when I have the MPU board in game-mode (not test-mode), I can start a game and press the flipper buttons and see the GI's dim. So that makes me think it's trying to do something, but I'm not sure where it's going if there's no 43V on the playfield.

I'm trying to repair this thing in a dark bar so anyone know which solenoid is the first in the chain for the power? I made a few guesses but it's hard to see.

All that said, I do have the schematics for the playfield and found the section I need, but it doesn't list wire colors unless I'm just not seeing something?

Correct me if I am wrong, but the solenoid board itself is really tying the power to ground right? Solenoids are otherwise charged with power directly coming off the power board?

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from m00dawg:

Yep, Power board shows 43V as does the knocker on the bottom of the cabinet (which does work when testing using the Alltek CPU test add-on card). It's the playfield where I can't seem to find it. I kept testing the fuse every-time I tested a solenoid with a volt meter and it (mostly) remained unblown. I think a fast-blow was in there originally and I believe a slow-blow is required? Even with a repalcement fuse in-tact, though, I still don't get 43V.
The weird part is, when I have the MPU board in game-mode (not test-mode), I can start a game and press the flipper buttons and see the GI's dim. So that makes me think it's trying to do something, but I'm not sure where it's going if there's no 43V on the playfield.
I'm trying to repair this thing in a dark bar so anyone know which solenoid is the first in the chain for the power? I made a few guesses but it's hard to see.
All that said, I do have the schematics for the playfield and found the section I need, but it doesn't list wire colors unless I'm just not seeing something?
Correct me if I am wrong, but the solenoid board itself is really tying the power to ground right? Solenoids are otherwise charged with power directly coming off the power board?

Solenoids are always hot with +43v. Driver board transistors turn on and give a path to ground to complete the circuit. The PF solenoids have their own wire carrying +43v to the PF. This 43v wire is fused on the PF near the flippers. Either your fuse is blown/blowing everyime you put a new one in. Or your wire is open.

Get the schematics. Get the wiring diagram page in front of you. Look at the transformer assembly. Look for SOLENOID BUS wire on the PF plug. Follow to PF.

If your flipper is dimming the lamps the mech is bound up and the plunger cant move, the solenoid coil itself is shorted(or the diodes on the coil), or the solenoid is not wired right.

#6 9 years ago

F1 5.4V is for the feature lamps only. MPU power is derived from the 12V line on F3 via the 5V regulator on the solenoid driver board.

The GI shouldn't dim when you hit the flippers. It may flicker briefly, but if it dims you will need to make sure they are wired properly and the EOS switches open when they are engaged.

43V is supplied in 3 places from the rectifier board. J2 pin 2 for the cabinet (knocker and coin door), J3 pin 13 for the backbox (flipper circuit on the SDB and also used by MPU), and J1 pin 6 for the playfield. So follow J1 pin 6 and find out where you are losing connectivity to the playfield coils.

#7 9 years ago

Hmmm yeah I tried checking for power before and after the fuse and would check after each test for a blown fuse. As it was blowing before, it must have been getting power at some point and now it's not but I don't recall changing anything. Thanks for the letting me know which pins go to what though, doth! That'll make it much easier to know where to start!

As far as the GI's dimming, unless I'm testing for voltage somehow the wrong way, I'm not seeing any 43V to the flipper coils at all, which is weird for why the GIs still dim. I tested the knocker coil for 43V but doing the same test resulting in nothing on the fliipper coils. It's very strange.

#8 9 years ago

All coils have 43V on them at all times. If you test between any coil lug and the cabinet braid you should see it. I forgot to ask, do the flippers work? I just assumed they did.

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

All coils have 43V on them at all times. If you test between any coil lug and the cabinet braid you should see it. I forgot to ask, do the flippers work? I just assumed they did.

Nope, flippers do not function. None of the solenoids on the playfield function - I can't see 43V on any of them. The knocker on the bottom of the cab, however, does work.

So I feel like a wire has come loose or maybe a cold solder joint on one of the solenoids towards the back of the playfield (that I'm having trouble easily getting to). I'm used to modern pins where you can flip the playfield up to the backbox but you can't really do that with these older ones can you?

As noted, there IS a disconnected wire but it's orange and tracing where it goes, it really looks to be for GI. It was soldered directly to the old power board between J1 and J2.

#10 9 years ago

Ok, so you should have a brown wire on J1 pin 6 which should connect to your flipper coils and one end of the fuse holder under the playfield. The other end of the fuse holder should have a couple of (probably yellow) wires attached which go to all of the other coils. If J1 is correct, then check your flipper coils to see if there is a break in the circuit. You can buzz between J1 pin 6 and each flipper coil and then the fuse holder to see where you lose connectivity.

Yes you can slide the playfield forward and tip it up against the backbox. There should be a couple of notches in the siderail supports for this.

Your disconnected orange wire should be for feature lamps, but buzz it out to be sure. It connects to J1 pin 5.

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Yes you can slide the playfield forward and tip it up against the backbox. There should be a couple of notches in the siderail supports for this.

Make sure the siderails are not broke, or partly missing before you try this...

#12 9 years ago

Like 10 posts up when i told you to get the wiring diagram and trace out the solenoid bus to the playfield. Did you do that? Cuz that is the problem...

You have +43v at the knocker and the game boots (remember no +43v no zero cross, no 7th POST flash). THat means the fuse is good, AC coming in is good, gets rectifier blah blah. The only other option is open bus line to the PF. Easy connectors.

sorry... im starting to get grumpy

#13 9 years ago

Rectifier board J1 P6, a brown wire, carries solenoid voltage to the PF. That entire J1 connector is always wasted, no doubt yours probably is too.

Repair / replace / repin the entire rectifier board.

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#14 9 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

sorry... im starting to get grumpy

LOL

#15 9 years ago

Haha no worries barakandl - I appreciate yours and everyone's help!

I actually do have the schematics, though not the one you just provided for the power board. I just had Rottendog for that, which tells me which pins are 43V but not what they were going to. So yours will be quite helpful.

I agree, the connector is probably wasted and I already have the connector kit from Pinball Life to fix it. I just didn't want to do that yet until I was more confident in the wiring. I'm actually worried though that the wire might be missing and some other wiring shenanigans have taken place on this poor machine over the ages.

Quoted from dothedoo:

Ok, so you should have a brown wire on J1 pin 6 which should connect to your flipper coils and one end of the fuse holder under the playfield. The other end of the fuse holder should have a couple of (probably yellow) wires attached which go to all of the other coils. If J1 is correct, then check your flipper coils to see if there is a break in the circuit. You can buzz between J1 pin 6 and each flipper coil and then the fuse holder to see where you lose connectivity.

Yes, one end is yellow I believe, though I think the other end is grey for the fuse holder, not brown. But I'll look again next time I can make the trip out. I need to buy some 1A and 10A slow blow fuses before I can make the excursion to try again.

Thanks so much for the help everyone! Gives me something to go on!

#16 9 years ago
Quoted from m00dawg:

Haha no worries barakandl - I appreciate yours and everyone's help!
I actually do have the schematics, though not the one you just provided for the power board. I just had Rottendog for that, which tells me which pins are 43V but not what they were going to. So yours will be quite helpful.
I agree, the connector is probably wasted and I already have the connector kit from Pinball Life to fix it. I just didn't want to do that yet until I was more confident in the wiring. I'm actually worried though that the wire might be missing and some other wiring shenanigans have taken place on this poor machine over the ages.
Yes, one end is yellow I believe, though I think the other end is grey for the fuse holder, not brown. But I'll look again next time I can make the trip out. I need to buy some 1A and 10A slow blow fuses before I can make the excursion to try again.
Thanks so much for the help everyone! Gives me something to go on!

If the wire is missing form the plug then find the playfield wiring harness and follow it back to the rectifier board. Just locate the brown wire that daisies across all the coils and look for where it is cut. It is probably just laying right but the housing if it is missing. Idoubt someone cut it out of hte harness.

#17 9 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

If the wire is missing form the plug then find the playfield wiring harness and follow it back to the rectifier board. Just locate the brown wire that daisies across all the coils and look for where it is cut. It is probably just laying right but the housing if it is missing. Idoubt someone cut it out of hte harness.

Agreed. But remember, you will have one color that goes from the board to the flippers first, then to the fuse holder. Then a different color will leave the fuse holder and go to all of the other playfield coils.

#18 9 years ago

Yep, those are definitely yellow (going out tot he coils, or at least the flipper and other lower playfield ones). After thinking about it, I actually do think the wires coming in are brown. So I'll just have to find that. Worried it isn't there.

Some dude did some pretty ghetto fixes for this thing, which is, in part, why I swapped out the boards with Rottendog and Alltek boards. I didn't anticipate I might run into funky wiring issues though :/

#19 9 years ago
Quoted from m00dawg:

Yep, those are definitely yellow (going out tot he coils, or at least the flipper and other lower playfield ones). After thinking about it, I actually do think the wires coming in are brown. So I'll just have to find that. Worried it isn't there.
Some dude did some pretty ghetto fixes for this thing, which is, in part, why I swapped out the boards with Rottendog and Alltek boards. I didn't anticipate I might run into funky wiring issues though :/

Besides the stupid color code and odd sized random plugs. Bally did a good job with the wiring diagram page. Everything is there on one 11x17 sheet.

#20 9 years ago

The sheet you sent me is golden! Though I'm now nervous - I'm almost certain there is no wire currently going to J1:6. That was one of the ones that was burnt. Since this thing used to work, I have to assume that wire has been put somewhere else. I'll look, as suggested, at the transformer and trace things back from there to see what I can find.

As I recall, when I was comparing the Rottendog schems (http://rottendog.us/BPS018.pdf), the wires that were connected to 43V were thin which has me concerned. If someone somehow tied one of those to the playfield, that'd be bad juju, though since I'm not getting any power to the PF, I'd doubt that. If I just can't seem to find it, worse case is I'll just run a new wire I suppose.

#21 9 years ago

PPS has all the nicely colored wires usually in stock, so if you do run new wires, you can get the correct ones.

BUT since it did work, I'd probably pull the playfield and really dig into how it got power before.....

EDIT: I typed PPS, but meant BAA - same difference, lol

Post edited by vid1900: I'm an idiot

#22 9 years ago

Hmm you don't happen to have a link perchance? I tried pulling up the category and got a blank page mostly:

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=WIR

Doh! But yes I agree, I ought to figure out what's going on with the PF. Ideally I want it wired the /right/ way so if I do figure it out, I may still end up running a new wire. Things were awfully ugly in there before I came along and it's been a bit of a nightmare to work on in places as a result.

#23 9 years ago
Quoted from m00dawg:

Hmm you don't happen to have a link perchance? I tried pulling up the category and got a blank page mostly:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=WIR
Doh! But yes I agree, I ought to figure out what's going on with the PF. Ideally I want it wired the /right/ way so if I do figure it out, I may still end up running a new wire. Things were awfully ugly in there before I came along and it's been a bit of a nightmare to work on in places as a result.

I'd like to buy some wire from them too.

#25 9 years ago

Awesome, thanks vid1900!

3 weeks later
#26 9 years ago

Hey all! Just providing an update - I got the dern thing working! Turns out I had J1 shifted over (it's a 9 pin socket but 8 pin connector). I had it wrong initially because the original connector appeared to have been cut so I think the first pin had to be shifted over.

After that, unsurprisingly, the flippers got 48V and were able to start doing their magic. Thanks for all the help in this regard! Knowing the wire color really helped me figure out that was what was wrong!

After that, it was just some odds and ends - fixing some bad joints on the playfield and one wire in the wrong position on the header. I still have some things to fix (coin mechs are gross!) but it works at least.

Thanks again for all the helpful advice here!

#27 9 years ago

Now install a keying plug at position 4 of that plug so this won't happen again.

#28 9 years ago

Yep. Actually I thought about just redoing the whole connector and will key it then.

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