Did you check if the caps on the PSU were properly specced?

Did you read the voltages coming out of the transformer?

That’d be the second step - the first is the wall voltage and you did that.

rd

It would seem this way. But they are more thing involved here. If you use a 120 watt bulb at 120 volts it uses 1 amp of current (VxI=P) So now lets double the voltage to 240 volts and the current will drop by 1/2. 240 volts x .5 amps = 120 watts

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On the other hand if you take a 120 watt bulb meant to operate on a 120 volts and raise the volts to 240 it will double the current for a split second until the filament burns out. This is because the bulb is now using 480 watts and designed for 120 watts.

There is more to it than just voltage. Voltage is only one piece of this equation.

Beyond a problem with the transformer, you likely have bad DC rectification on this game.

Take your AUX driver board out of Earthshaker and see if the problem still exists. If it does not, you can place the problem on the AUX driver board in PF causing this issue. Swapping boards is the cheapest and least technical way to test this.(Lower right board in the head.) The AUX board in both games is exactly the same and we've established your Earthshaker does not have this issue.

He has higher than normal voltage on all his games that have a aux power supply.

The Earthshaker does not have any problems. Also, the OP indicated that this Police Force had these same problems at the previous owner's house in his first post.

He has 3 system 11B machines. All 3 machines have 75 volts on the 50 volt coils. All 3 machines have 124 volts going into them. Is this AC power within power company specs, yes but at it very highest limits. I would assume if he just rebuilt the flippers on Earthshaker they would seem overly strong too. When bridge rectifiers start going bad there efficiency will not go up it will go down. The same goes for the electrolytic cap in the circuit. There is nothing else involved in making the 50 volt signal.

So you are saying the previous owner experienced these same problems because why again?

Seriously, it's more likely the wrong flipper coils are installed rather than two separate owners of this machine BOTH having too much power at their wall outlets.

Blindly throwing parts at the problem will not fix the issue with this machine.

Oh, and 75VDC is a fairly standard VDC reading for flipper coils in a system 11 games. Even for a game with WEAK FLIPPERS.

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-flipper-weak

I haven't suggested throwing any parts at this machine. I have only answered questions and asked for voltage tests.

If you believe this, then I challenge you to test your mousin around pin and post the results. Check wall outlet and coil voltage.

The 26 and 48 volt lines don't have any load on them. If you retest the 48 volt while holding both flippers buttons you will find it closer to the 7%.

Can you also check the flipper coils ohms on the power winding. Just curious to know if you have gotten mislabeled coils. Anything is possible.

Here ya go. On my Mousin’. You can believe whatever you want, doesn’t make it true.
Looks like the increase of about 9 volts AC increases the DC flipper coil voltage less than 2 volts. That’s not going to be enough to cause the issues described in the original post.

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What coils do you have in there?

Every system 9/11 game’s voltages that I have ever owned are around these same values and I have owned a LOT of them.

I’m not looking in there to check on the coils. It’s not relevant.

No, this is not the upper limit of Voltage for the "power company", at least not around here. 120v +/- 10%. This is straight from my local electrical engineer at penelec. 120v range is therefore 108 to 132v. As a master electrician for 10 years, I can promise you 124v is not the real world high limit. In this part of the power grid, 113v-127 is pretty much the average . Can't say that I've ever taken a meter reading below 110v or above 130v, unless there was a bad neutral on the service.

I haven't read all the posts in this topic, but under no circumstances, would I ever re tap a transformer in a solid state pinball, unless it was a re-import, fresh off of the boat. And I would then tap it for 115v - 120v only. That is the voltage we use here in the USA. Anything else is asking for trouble on a SS game.

120 watt at 120 volts= 1 amp isn't VxI=P, it's P/V=I
Your follow up statement is correct (about P/V=I) but the OP asked about V/I=R. And he's right, if V goes up and R stays the same I must also increase.

OhmsLaw (resized).png

Many things can cause this. Connections, corrosion, partially failed brides and diodes, etc. The board may still need to be serviced, even if it’s working now. I have seen this quite a few times with games that have a AUX boards. Glad you figured it out.