(Topic ID: 242893)

Does anyone else have this hissing/whining on boot on any JJP game?


By harryhoudini

1 year ago



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  • 42 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by harryhoudini
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#1 1 year ago

While it's a relatively small issue and doesn't affect gameplay, per say, it is annoying as hell. Every time I turn on my POTC JJP machine I am reminded of this issue and have to hear the annoying sounds. I could care less about the "pop" that all games have, although I want to find a global solution to that as well. I'd just like to know if I am unique in this situation and/or if anyone has any tips. I've sent this off to JJP support and we've tried a few things. I've switched 3.5mm cables from the mobo to the amp. I've tried the inline ground loop isolator from my WOZ (bypassing the one in POTC) to see if that might be at fault. I tried unplugging the headphone header from the mobo (JJP support suggestion) to see if that was causing any issue. I traced the audio cables, trying to move them away from anything interfering, reinserted them, etc. Nothing here has solved the issue.

Something else, which I am not sure is related or out of the ordinary, is "chirping" that happens occasionally when the game is sitting idle. I posted a video below where you can hear it but you have to listen between me brushing the mic with my hand. It happens a few times.

My only close to a resolution situation has been to devise a delay timer that disconnects the speakers at power on and waits for X seconds to reconnect them. I am still working on this, and it seems like it could be a solution for the pop as well, but it seems like a bandaid which may my indicative of other issues. What if the mobo is going out and this is a sign? Etc.

Has anyone seen this in their JJP game at all?

Hissing/whining on POTC: https://photos.app.goo.gl/tAj1DW7zF9VUAqiM8

WOZ startup (no issues): https://photos.app.goo.gl/VcEJkqHnB3Ut8HGD7

POTC "chirping" (happens at 0:06 and 0:10): https://photos.app.goo.gl/x9SofHLyQjyYfQpy9

While it's not done by any means here is an idea of what the timer does... and you can see, when it times out the speakers come to life and the whining continues: https://photos.app.goo.gl/N6ui8G3GHgzRueqf9

#2 1 year ago

Boy, that’s not right. Don’t have that on either my Hobbit or my POTC.

#3 1 year ago

I so have this on my RR WOZ and have wondered the same thing... is there a way to improve this?

#4 1 year ago

Does that pin have a mechanical hard drive or SSD? I have heard this through my pc speakers on machines I have build too.

#5 1 year ago

That sounds like a ground loop issue. You should check if you have current in your ground and check all gnd connectors too.

#6 1 year ago

This is generally your fix.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) amazon.com link »

It worked on two of mine.

#7 1 year ago

You guys didn't read my post. Not only does the game have a ground loop isolator from the factory, so does WOZ and I swapped them to see if it would change anything. Not the ground loop isolator.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from Jasontaps:

Does that pin have a mechanical hard drive or SSD? I have heard this through my pc speakers on machines I have build too.

SSD. So does WOZ, which has no issue.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from spinal:

I so have this on my RR WOZ and have wondered the same thing... is there a way to improve this?

Thanks, good to know. Now to find out why our games have this when many others don't.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Thanks, good to know. Now to find out why our games have this when many others don't.

Call jjp!

#11 1 year ago

Read the post, already in contact with them.

#12 1 year ago

Read my post
Call jjp!

Again

Make them fix your problem.

#13 1 year ago

Well, good new and bad(?) news... found the issue with the hissing/whining. It is, in fact, the ground loop/noise isolator that JJP used. I simply swapped out the existing one in the backbox CPU box with this one from Amazon amazon.com link » and boom, all the noise on boot is gone (and the annoying noises/cracking that happens when the game is fully on).

Sounds like this is another case of quality issues with components.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

This is generally your fix.
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) amazon.com link »
It worked on two of mine.

Dude... huge apologies to you, you were absolutely correct. It didn't seem possible but you planted that thought in me so I had to test it out. The isolators that JJP uses are either inconsistent or just crappy. I have 3 JJP games in my house right now and 2 do this and 1 does not.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Well, good new and bad(?) news... found the issue with the hissing/whining. It is, in fact, the ground loop/noise isolator that JJP used. I simply swapped out the existing one in the backbox CPU box with this one from Amazon amazon.com link » and boom, all the noise on boot is gone (and the annoying noises/cracking that happens when the game is fully on).
Sounds like this is another case of quality issues with components.

Are these what you are talking about? Mine seems to have two, one in the cpu box and one on the rear wall of the cabinet. Replace them both?

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#16 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Well, good new and bad(?) news... found the issue with the hissing/whining. It is, in fact, the ground loop/noise isolator that JJP used. I simply swapped out the existing one in the backbox CPU box with this one from Amazon amazon.com link » and boom, all the noise on boot is gone (and the annoying noises/cracking that happens when the game is fully on).
Sounds like this is another case of quality issues with components.

Oh wait... I think I wrote earlier on this thread "That sounds like a ground loop issue. You should check if you have current in your ground and check all gnd connectors too."

But I guess I didn't read your post....

Anyways I'm glad it's fixed !

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

Oh wait... I think I wrote earlier on this thread "That sounds like a ground loop issue. You should check if you have current in your ground and check all gnd connectors too."
But I guess I didn't read your post....
Anyways I'm glad it's fixed !

Touche

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Does anyone else have this whining on boot up of any JJP game?

I do hear a whining sound every time I boot up a JJP game on location.
Then I realize that's just me whining about why I can't afford to buy one.

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Are these what you are talking about? Mine seems to have two, one in the cpu box and one on the rear wall of the cabinet. Replace them both?
[quoted image][quoted image]

The one in the WOZ on the back wall looks to be for the AUX jack on the back, so it would be the one inside the CPU box (silver box). Yup, you identified the right parts, however. Probably only need to touch the rear one if you use the aux jack and have the same issue.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Well, good new and bad(?) news... found the issue with the hissing/whining. It is, in fact, the ground loop/noise isolator that JJP used. I simply swapped out the existing one in the backbox CPU box with this one from Amazon amazon.com link » and boom, all the noise on boot is gone (and the annoying noises/cracking that happens when the game is fully on).
Sounds like this is another case of quality issues with components.

Did you plug your need one male jack into the Motherboard side or Pinsounds board side (and if so, input from MB or output to speaker bar)?

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Did you plug your need one male jack into the Motherboard side or Pinsounds board side (and if so, input from MB or output to speaker bar)?

I think you can just replace the existing one directly. However you end up doing it, the path is back of mobo (green) to isolator to sound board (green).

I think this is easiest:
pasted_image (resized).png

#22 1 year ago

Btw, for anyone following and who care, since the focus is now on just the pop (and that is for multiple games, not just JJP) I am working on that. I had a few test parts fail but have two paths going forward that I'm working on. One seems to work fine for preventing the pop at power on but likely not on power off. The other is more complex but may be able to do both. Ideally this solution works for multiple manufacturers.

#23 1 year ago

The pop is called a DC thump, it's common in poorly designed amplifiers and the remedy is to put a relay to delay the connection to the speakers.

It's a cheap circuit, but there is a ready to use kit here : amazon.com link »

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

The pop is called a DC thump, it's common in poorly designed amplifiers and the remedy is to put a relay to delay the connection to the speakers.
It's a cheap circuit, but there is a ready to use kit here : amazon.com link »

Heh... WAY down that road. Whatever is going on with the JJP sound board the standard speaker protection circuits don't work. For one, they don't delay long enough (most are set to 2-3 seconds) and in addition, with JJP at least, the audio does not work and they simply introduce a clicking sound to the speakers. I have no idea why, I would assume the out to the speakers would be the same as any other audio out. I've tried a few and varying configurations.

On top of that, SP circuits likely won't solve the pop on power off.

A more direct solution was to simply cut the audio for a set amount of time using a timer circuit, which seems to work. However, almost all of those are only 1 channel. In this case we at least need 2, maybe 3 and maybe 6. I'm not an engineer so I am not 100% on if we need to cut to the sub woofer and if we need to cut each wire to each speaker or if just one wire to each speaker will suffice.

I am waiting on a multi-channel relay board which will allow for the cutoff to at least 3 channels if not all 6, combine that with the timer board and that may be a "build your own" solution or possibly combined into a product that can be sold.

But neither of those will handle the power off, I believe. For that others have used a capacitor circuit which introduces a delay on while the capacitor charges and then is able to cut the audio a split second before the amp powers off. Again, no expert and these solutions were made for earlier games with mono audio so you only had to interrupt one wire.

#25 1 year ago

I also contacted pinnovators, who I seem to believe designed the JJP sound board, to see if they were interested in working on a solution (not just for JJP but for all games) since they seem to deal in audio circuit design.

#26 1 year ago

Did you mean on Pinside or the game?

#27 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Dude... huge apologies to you, you were absolutely correct. It didn't seem possible but you planted that thought in me so I had to test it out. The isolators that JJP uses are either inconsistent or just crappy. I have 3 JJP games in my house right now and 2 do this and 1 does not.

No problem. Glad you got it fixed. Full disclosure, I probably posted that before I read the details as I have had so much success with them. Same thing happened with my factory ones, and I should have probably mentioned that.

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

No problem. Glad you got it fixed. Full disclosure, I probably posted that before I read the details as I have had so much success with them. Same thing happened with my factory ones, and I should have probably mentioned that.

Geeeesus chrisssstt JJP.... stop using shit!

#29 1 year ago

I think I’m doing the wrong thing. I just tried to put the mpow before their isolator like shown. I guess this does not work? Assume I have to take shield off cpu. Was a bit anxious doing this. Feel super dumb, confused by your photo Harry. Sorry!

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#30 1 year ago

That's pirates, right? You'll want to go in to the big silver PC case and remove the one that is in there, bypass it, replace it with the new one.

#31 1 year ago

Thanks, so ignore the one next to the speakers on top of the silver box?

#32 1 year ago

Can you take a larger pic? I didn't have one there.

#33 1 year ago

Here is where I see one. When I put the mpow before the existing I suddenly had all the whistles at start up. I also checked my power plug because I have had one restart. Also hated moving lcd, it did not sit right when I finished had to wiggle to make it straight. My isolator is above cpu box behind right speaker. It has one connection to right of cpu box and another goes into top of cpu box. Not sure if replacing it will get rid of sound interrupts and clipping.

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#34 1 year ago

Well that's crazy, mine is inside the CPU box. Yeah, I'd definitely bypass it and put the new one in place and test. I don't know why it is up there, the cable should be going from the motherboard (bottom right of the CPU box) to the sound board (center in the CPU box) so there is no real reason for the isolator to be up there but maybe they are just trying to get it out of the CPU box. Weird.

#35 1 year ago

Thanks Harry. These games certainly have been evolving! Thing is we have similar vintages, August last year. They connected it to the speaker jack on the outside of the box down the bottom right, ran the connection to the right of the cpu box to the top where the isolator is sitting next to the speaker, subject to its magnet and movements.

Will let you know how I go. Man I hate moving that screen!!

On another note I have noticed my tortuga deflector likes to move back so it shoots to on the wrong side of the flipper. Took the bumper apart to adjust again. Will keep an eye on it. Hope your new deflector is working well.

1 month later
#37 1 year ago

Although the pop on start can startle me i don't have a problem with it. Probably one of the quietest sounds my Hobbit makes compared to flipper noise or a beast pushing a ball into the glass.
Let alone Gandalf yelling 'MULTIBALLLLL!!!!!'

Biggest startle is the beautiful but defeaning pop when you don't realise you are close to a free game.

#38 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I think you can just replace the existing one directly. However you end up doing it, the path is back of mobo (green) to isolator to sound board (green).
I think this is easiest:
[quoted image]

This looks nothing like my pirates. Is this from WOZ?

Confused. Here’s mine.

CDC3B51F-D6E6-4488-8724-7C75056B2655 (resized).jpeg
#39 1 year ago

Further away shot (after changed isolator)

image (resized).jpg
#40 1 year ago

The last image I posted was from WOZ, yeah. The stuff you did was right, as far as I can see. Try new audio cables for sure. Try jiggling the ends.

It won't help with the clipping of the audio, and it might not remove the whine completely. Did anything change from the old one to the new one at all?

#41 1 year ago

Yep now have whine that I never had before

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