(Topic ID: 68907)

Does anyone buy dmd's with lines out?


By MustangPaul

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by prowlerman99
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    #1 5 years ago

    My LAH dmd had 2 lines out so I replaced it. Now I'm wondering if anyone buys these because I'd hate to throw it in the trash.

    #2 5 years ago

    Stick it on CL or eBay or advertise it on here. There are normally guys that have a dead DMD that are looking for a cheap replacement or that would like some sort of test DMD. I have sold a few for $50 or a little bit more depending on what was wrong with it.

    Alternatively, which lines are out, sometimes they can be repaired.

    #3 5 years ago

    I've repaired some of my DMDs when there's a broken pin or pins on the back. It's a pesky soldering job but if you're lucky the missing row or column will reappear. It's not always the case, so there's risk involved with buying one with the hopes of fixing it. With that in mind I personally wouldn't be buying one without inspecting it, and would only buy it for dirt cheap.

    #4 5 years ago

    What's your preferred method for resoldering those pins? I've got one line out, the far right one, on my TZ's DMD. It was that way when I bought it, just never really bothered me. I've been hesitant because of the glass and fears of degassing it.

    Any tips/tricks?

    #5 5 years ago

    How much you looking to get for it? I need a DMD for a strikes n spares game.

    #6 5 years ago

    i have 2 i keep around for testing. because you will never us it til you sell it.

    #7 5 years ago

    All the time .. their proper name is "Untested" as seen on eBay.

    I wish that known (at least totally dead) bad glass would simply be destroyed rather than passed off as known dead, but I'll call it untested just to sucker buyers in. For partially dead ones, those usually are advertised pretty honestly.

    #8 5 years ago
    Quoted from Miguel351:

    What's your preferred method for resoldering those pins? I've got one line out, the far right one, on my TZ's DMD. It was that way when I bought it, just never really bothered me. I've been hesitant because of the glass and fears of degassing it.
    Any tips/tricks?

    If it has metal pins use 2-part silver epoxy (conductive).
    If it has the plastic ribbon don't bother with it. You are more likely to cause more lines to go out messing with it.

    #9 5 years ago

    I have a stern red led dmd with one row that's a bit brighter than others. Anyone want to give me 100 bucks for it?

    #10 5 years ago

    I have ground some glass away to expose the metal pin with a dremel before. 2 successes and 1 failure so far. The vertical lines are the hardest to repair. I haven't tried the conductive epoxy yet but I reckon it would be worth a shot, especially if you can expose some of the metal pin.

    #11 5 years ago
    Quoted from Pintoxicated:

    I have ground some glass away to expose the metal pin with a dremel before. 2 successes and 1 failure so far. The vertical lines are the hardest to repair. I haven't tried the conductive epoxy yet but I reckon it would be worth a shot, especially if you can expose some of the metal pin.

    that's the beauty of the epoxy, no need to dremel away any glass.

    #12 5 years ago
    Quoted from Miguel351:

    What's your preferred method for resoldering those pins? I've got one line out, the far right one, on my TZ's DMD. It was that way when I bought it, just never really bothered me. I've been hesitant because of the glass and fears of degassing it.
    Any tips/tricks?

    Light sanding, a very hot iron, and a small probe/stick to keep the connections mated while the solder cools. It's usually a very small bit of contact to work with, so patience is a must.

    #13 5 years ago

    So, as long as I apply the heat to the longer side, I should be ok, then? I just don't want any drips to melt the glass or break that seal.

    I'll give it a shot this weekend. If it doesn't work, I'll look into that silver epoxy stuff(expensive!).

    #14 5 years ago

    You guys who can repair these have my respect. I tried it once and quickly went from 1 line out to like 6

    #15 5 years ago
    Quoted from Miguel351:

    So, as long as I apply the heat to the longer side, I should be ok, then? I just don't want any drips to melt the glass or break that seal.
    I'll give it a shot this weekend. If it doesn't work, I'll look into that silver epoxy stuff(expensive!).

    Actually no ... you need to apply the heat to that tiny little sliver left in the glass. That's the challenge. Get some solder to stick to that, then use a probe (something that doesn't conduct heat) to push the remaining leg close to the soldered-up sliver, then heat the leg until it melts the solder ... then STOP, but keep the probe their until it's cool. It's hit or miss ... very frustrating when all you have is that tiny little bit. I think the silver epoxy may be a better option ... but as I said I've had luck. You need a very hot iron with a very fine tip.

    #16 5 years ago
    Quoted from pinster68:

    You need a very hot iron with a very fine tip.

    Got that for sure.....but I may be only trying this once, then. I can't remember how big that nub on the bottom is, but I know it ain't much.

    Thanks for the guidance!

    #17 5 years ago
    Quoted from Erik:

    You guys who can repair these have my respect. I tried it once and quickly went from 1 line out to like 6

    That's why I don't feel too bad trying to fix what I've got. It technically needs a new one anyway, but if I can fix it, great. If I can't fix it, I've got Dr. Pinball's DMDExtender LCD replacement setup to give me my black and white display I've always wanted. Win/win/win as far as I'm concerned.

    #18 5 years ago

    I have one with just the top line out, but it blows the fuse when I turn the game on.
    Any idea what causes that?

    Brian

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