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(Topic ID: 243231)

Documenting Custom WOZ Lighting Upgrade Kit

By harryhoudini

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 28 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by hocuslocus
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders


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#1 1 year ago

All propp to who sort of set me on this path with their WOZ kit (which I own on another WOZ). I wanted to plus it up a bit. Here's the concept:

1. 6 spotlights using the black one-piece spots that JJP used
2. Keep the spotlights on 12v connection to be consistent with JJP
3. Trough lighting with 12v RGB LED strip
4. Backboard lighting with 12v RGB LED strip
5. 12v RGB LED dimmer / controller to give any brightness and color to the LED strips
6. Clean, install using manufacturer connectors and wire routing

#2 1 year ago


1. Spotlight / Reflector Assembly (6)

2. RGB 12v Light Tape Non-Waterproof 5050 link » 5m 300 Led Strip Light 3528 5050 5630 Smd Rgb Ribbon Tape Roll Waterproof Dc 12v

3. RGB 12v Adjustable Dimmer link » Rgb Dimmer Stepless Adjustable Switch Led Strip Lights Controller 3 Way Switchni

4. RGB Extension Wire link » Wholesale 4 Pin 22awg Extension Cable Wire Rgb Connector For Led 3528 5050 Strip

5. You'll also need some 1" hex standoff M/F and some 6-32 nuts (why not go black?)

6. Also you'll need some wire... I'm just using black 20 gauge, I think. maybe 18. Doesn't matter a ton.

7. Some sort of tape, I like the 3M double stick VHB tape: link »

8. I like using some heat shrink tubing to make everything clean: link »

9. 12v bulbs, I like what is called "purple" as you can see in the pic below but it really does not show up so dark purple and really pops the playfield. Choose any of the colors you like. I added a green to the back right existing spot (pointing at the EC) and a white to the castle playfield and munchkin spot (all existing spots). or

Added 16 months ago:

Doh, I forgot that for a clean install you'll need wiring harness splitters. I think mezelmods sells one for the 2 pin coin door power in some games and that can be used for the 12v power on the playfield, but I haven't seen the 4 pin one offered.

Molex 4 pin connector pairs with pins: link »
Molex 2 pin: link »

Mezel mods 2 pin harness:

I suppose you could run everything off the 2 pin if you don't want to build your own. Just need to run wires for power from the playfield down the cabinet to the 12v RGB controller.

Added 15 months ago:

Molex 2 pin should be .093: link »

#3 1 year ago

First step is to assemble the spotlight groups. You're taking two spotlights and wiring them in series.

Starting point, each side of one spotlight gets a long wire and a short wire. Solder to each lug of the spotlight and then cover with heat shrink tubing.
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A completed assembly. The short wires get soldered to the other spotlight. It's a bit tricky and you have to have the heat shrink cut short and away from the soldering or it will get shrunk during soldering. I had to bend the tabs of the matching sides of both spotlights to get them to smoosh together close enough. Heat shrink tubing keeps them from touching.
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Install the 1" hex spacer on top of the existing post on the sling, plenty of threads sticking out. The spotlights mate on top and route the wires down behind the lower sling switch. Make sure they go completely behind the switch out of the way. Nut goes on top.
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#4 1 year ago

Following, interested to see the results!

#5 1 year ago

Delayed spraying my JP playfield with clear and picked up a TAF that I'm trading next weekend for a TOTAN (which has a playfield to swap, lol). Should have some updates early this week, hardest part is done

#6 1 year ago

Following - thanks for the detailed documentation. I'm learning towards going this route myself.

#7 1 year ago

Ah, so I was going to include a quick TNPLH ballon fire LED mod but I wasn't happy with the comet fire LEDs so I'm sourcing some others.

In the meantime I started testing out the trough lighting. I am just mocking it up with blue tape but I figure I'll probably hot glue it. Easily removable, quick, clean. I've seen other kits attached with strong duct tape and thick paper. I used clear plastic from a product package that I just cut to fit. Basically you just need anything to attach the lights to above the ball guide.

Just remove the two screws keeping the apron on and slide it out.
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Metal ball guide and the hole to the bottom right where I'll run the wires
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Taped on
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Lights loosely taped on. I cut the LED strip at the delineations between the segments to the length I wanted. Then just hooked up each colored wire to the RGB controller and a temporary 12v power supply plugged in to the wall.
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There's a hole in the playfield right behind the shooter lane that the wires can be run down. I'm going to be all neat about it and run them all the length of the playfield with the rest of the harness, through the wire loom and in to the cabinet. Then I'm going to run the backboard lighting down the back of the cabinet and in to the base to meet up with the trough lighting and go to the RGB controller near the coin door for easy adjustments.

Here's the bottom of the playfield with the spotlight wires coming out. I started zip tying the wires to the rest of the loom but forgot to take an after pic. Once I connect them all up I'll annotate a pic. It's just soldering them together basically.
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#8 1 year ago

Plastic in place, cut to height and messily glued
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From the front
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Solder the RGB wires to the LED strip (mine had leads on it since it was the beginning of the roll, otherwise you just solder to the contacts
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Wire clip everything down
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Some wire routing and zip tying
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#9 1 year ago

Creating the backbox LED strip

Cut a length of the LED tape to the width of the backboard. Solder on wires from the RGB wire spool.
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Heat shrink the connection
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Strip dangling, RGB wire running up to left down the side of the cabinet, in the wire harness clamps
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The strip will be mounted like this but under the glass channel it is sitting on
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Wires running up the left side of the cabinet to right above the tilt sensor. Going to mount the box here.
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Here's the RGB wire from the trough. It comes down the playfield and follows the black wire loom to the back of the cabinet and up the side just like the other RGB wire.
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In RR WOZ this is the power connector at the coin door for the coin slot lights. We'll tap in to this for 12v power for the RGB controller.
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Building a splicer to pull 12v power. These are molex D connectors I believe, 4 position. I crimper together 3 wires (the plug has 3 wires, two are ground for some reason so I am just copying it) and then I ended up soldering on the two smaller wires to the 12v + and - and those will run directly to the RGB controller. You can split this and run more items off here if you are conservative. I am going to run the spotlights off the castle spotlight so different circuit I believe.
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Power installed and powering the RGB controller
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I wanted to document the winky light install and the flame balloon light but waiting on a better flickering LED. I also ordered some tiny 2 pin connectors for the spotlights just in case I want to disconnect them individually in the future. I think the connectors will fit up the switch holes in the playfield. So once that stuff comes in I'll wire up the rest. Pretty close now, just need to build another connector to tap the spotlight in the Castle. I'll run the winky and flame off that as well.

#10 1 year ago

RGB controller mounted and wired up.
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Backbox light secured to glass strip. The included adhesive seemed to work ok, but I need to add a piece of 3M tape to the connection of the wire to strip so it holds up to the top of the cabinet better.
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First look, very low brightness on the dimmer
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Brighter and the room darker
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Check out the game with the mod but with the stock spotlight lighting.
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Simply replacing the bulb in the munchkin spotlight gives a whole other world of color and brightness. This is just a 12v purple LED from comet. Wait until the rest of the spotlights are turned on. I might throw a dimmer on those (going to add one to the winky light as well) so it can be less power if wanted.
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#11 1 year ago

I might throw another strip of lights in the trough to brighten it up a bit more.

#13 1 year ago

And it looks like I'll be adding in a custom gouvea smoke mod lighting. Just a small LED strip behind the flames to add some more lighting to it. Waiting on a few more parts to come in.

#14 1 year ago

Took a bit of a detour to hook up some govea smoke mod lights. I tried a few different arrangements. I was not happy with the led lights right behind the smoke, they shine right through and you can see the LED segments. What I ended up with was a ring of LEDs under the witch. They are hooked up to the "white" light signal (although they can just be on the red as well, I wasn't sure if they could work for both) so any time the white light is on these lights are on. I used the same RGB lighting, just hooked up the neg to the R contact and the pos to the black/+ contact. When 12v is applied it lights up RED.

Hooked up to red light and directly behind the smoke:
Full circle under the smoke mod:

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Making a connector. It's a 3 way, one is ground and the other two are each the white or red light. You can find the colors in the manual on C-100 to match up with the blue wires in the connector. Basically in mine red is split to another thin red wire and one of the two blacks is split (I think middle is RED and the other black is WHITE). The split is going to go to the LED strip.
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I tried a dimmer inline but really it wasn't necessary. However, it uses the mini plugs I used so I can easily swap it in if wanted.

Connector plugged in. I used some tiny plug connectors between the LED strip and the larger connector harness so I could pull the led strip out from the top and since it is now attached to the smoke mod this comes in real handy if it needs to be removed.
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I tried this arrangement and it was just too visible
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I tried a half strip inside (cleaned with acetone and used hot glue) but you could see it and it wasn't that bright
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Then I did a full strip and made it hug the bottom. You can only see a tiny bit of this with playing the game. I may paint that little area black or just cut it out.
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I'd consider making some of these if someone is interested, plug and play.

#16 1 year ago


The trough lighting was bugging me so I added another strip.

Used a taller piece of plastic. DO NOT put the LEDs behind the plastic, I tried and they got too hot.
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On very bright
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More of a pink hue
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#17 1 year ago

Took another detour to do the TNPLH ballon lighting mod. I just used one of these

Thread it through the holes in the pop bumper and screw down:
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Pull the wires out of the way, I ended up threading them through the little hole in the bracket closest to the playfield after this pic:
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At the same time I replaced the rubbers with green (thanks titan) and put some green lexan washers under the plastics
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We'll tie in these two wires with the two from the winky lighting and plug in to the spotlight that is on the castle playfield. Coming up.

#18 1 year ago

Here are the wires coming down from the TNPLH pop bumper light combining with the wires from the Winky light and going in to the harness (orange wires). This is connected to the castle spotlight connector. Admittedly I am reusing some of the connectors from MezelMods I had previously bought but I could just build my own. I am going to replace their custom light mount with a basic wedge base so I can easily change the bulb.

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#19 1 year ago

So I finished up today. There wasn't a lot left to document. I put connectors on the 6 spotlights and connected them up. I added some additional flickering LEDs near the state fair pop bumper. You can sort of check out what I did with some stuff in these pics. I wired up winky light mod with a switch to turn off when the target is down. Zip tied everything up. I am going to add some dimmers to each set of spotlights so I can control and probably add some different colors than the purple. I like the purple but I need a bit of contrast.

If you have any questions I can take more pics and answer. I think I'm just about done with it all.

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#20 1 year ago

Hey Harry - just got home from a bbq and was planning on playing some pinball, but you getting a switch mounted to the winkie target has me raising the playfield and looking at things.... good job man! I’ve got a db3 microswitch and looking at this the easiest way is to epoxy the switch to the mech - is that how you did?

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

Hey Harry - just got home from a bbq and was planning on playing some pinball, but you getting a switch mounted to the winkie target has me raising the playfield and looking at things.... good job man! I’ve got a db3 microswitch and looking at this the easiest way is to epoxy the switch to the mech - is that how you did?

I thought about it! I'll take a pic when I get home. Find a wood screw or machine screw and nut that fits in one of the switch holes.

#22 1 year ago

Here are the pics of the winky light-up mod switch mounting. It's just wired inline with the lighting circuit. I used a wood screw that just fit inside the hole as I was out of switch mounting screws. Either way it is using the "hook" for the spring to mount through. The blade is cut off and bent so the target triggers it just like the stock switch, using a different part of the target.
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2 weeks later
#23 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Molex 2 pin: link »

Ordered a couple packs of these and they are definitely the wrong size for my ECLE... maybe newer WOZ's have these connectors, but these are about half the size of what's in WOZ.

2 weeks later
#26 1 year ago

These are the wrong effing stand offs and nuts too, my WOZ is 8/32... I suspect yours is too!


#27 1 year ago

Aw fuck. This explains why I have a bunch of standoffs laying around. Sorry

1 week later
#28 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Aw fuck. This explains why I have a bunch of standoffs laying around. Sorry

that's funny .
I think most bally/Williams and JJP games use primarily 8-32 and most sterns use 6-32.

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