(Topic ID: 273791)

Doctor Who volume keeps going up and can’t start game

By martymart

1 year ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 13 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 months ago by martymart
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0A196D0B-4A76-407C-946A-AA59FA1ADB3F (resized).jpeg

#1 1 year ago

I just picked up a Doctor Who pinball although at this stage I have not been able to start a game. When the machine is turned on the volume keeps increasing and I can only go into the adjustments menu.

I have reset all the cables and ribbons and cannot see anything that looks out of place. Has anyone seen this problem before and if so please point me in the right direction.

#3 1 year ago

I thought that may have been the case but it looks ok.

0A196D0B-4A76-407C-946A-AA59FA1ADB3F (resized).jpeg
#4 1 year ago

Go into switch test and check the volume up switch is not stuck on.
You will know if it is!

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

Go into switch test and check the volume up switch is not stuck on.

I thought that may have been the case although it was not stuck. I also isolated the switch to see if that helped. Wish that was the issue but unfortunately not.

#6 1 year ago

test all of the switch on playfield

after read it and test manually
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Switch_Matrix_Problems

#7 1 year ago

Have a close look at the top 3 right hand legs of U20. It looks like there is evidence of corrosion there. It also looks like the resistor above U 20 also has some green corrosion.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from generalgman:

Have a close look at the top 3 right hand legs of U20. It looks like there is evidence of corrosion there. It also looks like the resistor above U 20 also has some green corrosion.

I will need to have a closer look as I think you are correct. Do I need to replace these components or can it cleaned off.

#9 1 year ago

The corrosion travels under the component. You will need to remove the component , clean the alkaline damage off with an acid , and then rinse with water. Solder in a socket for U20. If you are not experienced with board work, i would suggest sending it to someone who is.

#10 1 year ago

Buy a new MPU if you can, leave alkaline damage in the trash can. Just my opinion as my game had a board with your issue and I always try the fix the corrosion solution, but it is just no longer worth the headaches and time. Some techs have great success, some have do not. If you feel you want to try it, it is worth the learning experience for sure. Good luck and the group is here to help.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Buy a new MPU if you can, leave alkaline damage in the trash can. Just my opinion as my game had a board with your issue and I always try the fix the corrosion solution, but it is just no longer worth the headaches and time. Some techs have great success, some have do not. If you feel you want to try it, it is worth the learning experience for sure. Good luck and the group is here to help.

Thanks for your advice.
In sun light you could see the corrosion better and after testing the switch matrix on the board there were a couple of columns out on the switch matrix and a couple of other switches that would not fire not to mention some other problems.

I am getting the board repaired at this stage to see how it goes. From there if I have future issues I will just replace it.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from martymart:

Thanks for your advice.
In sun light you could see the corrosion better and after testing the switch matrix on the board there were a couple of columns out on the switch matrix and a couple of other switches that would not fire not to mention some other problems.
I am getting the board repaired at this stage to see how it goes. From there if I have future issues I will just replace it.

Rebuild all the connectors as well, some look like originals, just replace those.

#13 12 months ago

After a lrage amount of repair to the MPU the game is up and running. Thanks to everyone for their comments.

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