(Topic ID: 314372)

Doctor Who updated bi-directional motor board weirdness

By byurick

1 year ago


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#1 1 year ago

I recently picked up one of the new motor controllers made by pinside user pellew that will reverse the motor if it senses a ball stuck in it. For context my minipf is an original and works just fine with a standard motor controller.

I installed the new one last night and followed the directions to dial it in, but it goes all wonky when starting and playing a game. I keep getting CW/CWW motor errors in the report and it will often not stop at the correct level (or sometimes just go up and down continually forever when a new ball is played or starting a game). I will get a video of it when I get a chance.

Is there some other settings I need to tweak? Or is it a known issue when using it with a normal minipf (and not an upgraded lifter kit version)?

#2 1 year ago

Other times like this it doesnt move when its supposed to (instead of continually moving).

And to reiterate, using the standard motor board everything works as it should with no errors.

#3 1 year ago

Have you put it it switch test to see if everything has been reconnected back as it should be ? As the ball should lock in place

#4 1 year ago

Yes the switches all work as they should, if I swap back the original motor controller it works properly. The only variable is the custom motor board (its literally two connections, I'm not touching anything else).

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from byurick:

Yes the switches all work as they should, if I swap back the original motor controller it works properly. The only variable is the custom motor board (its literally two connections, I'm not touching anything else).

The setup instructions are limited and discuss dialing in the board in relation to the motor and gearbox. It will be looking for an Overcurrent Level " during setup. I had a tough time figuring out how to adjust when I first received this board. I also added extensions off the board to run the MPF from the coin door, makes it easier. Also need to add a little mirror in the cabinet to see Fault flashes if errors present themselves. Here are the manual pages for those who are curious.

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#6 1 year ago

I guess I'm just not explaining it right. It's not that the controller is faulting when it shouldn't and making the motor stop, it's that the switches on the minipf dont work correctly but only when this custom board is installed.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from byurick:

I guess I'm just not explaining it right. It's not that the controller is faulting when it shouldn't and making the motor stop, it's that the switches on the minipf dont work correctly but only when this custom board is installed.

This is why I asked Tophervette to assist over in the Doctor Who forum. May want head over there or reach out.

#8 1 year ago

That thread has so many pages/posts I was worried it would just get lost, that's why I started my own.

Having said that, after about two hours of messing with it I started making some headway. I think ultimately I need to take apart my minipf and clean everything as I think it's not moving as smoothly as I thought it was.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from byurick:

That thread has so many pages/posts I was worried it would just get lost, that's why I started my own.
Having said that, after about two hours of messing with it I started making some headway. I think ultimately I need to take apart my minipf and clean everything as I think it's not moving as smoothly as I thought it was.

Download Faz's guide. Also, that group is awesome. You will be helped.

#10 1 year ago

WOW. That Youtube video was very interesting.

First, You need to slow down the motor speed a bunch. Way to fast if that video was in real time.

Second, You have your game set up, so that you have to hit the center target of the MPF before you can lock your balls. This is evidenced by the lock lights flash, when you finally hit the center target. I assume it does this with original board too.

Third, I am confused by why the logic circuits kick the balls out. The ball goes in, the Opto is working and sees the ball, then it triggers the coils to shoot it out. This is like there is a Multi player game and you have chosen the option to eject the balls.

Fourth, I see that you are manually playing the game with the glass off. Do you have the micro-switch in the upper left corner of the cabinet closed with a piece of thick cardboard? Otherwise, the MPF will not operate with this switch open. But I did see it go up and down on start up.

Fifth, What errors come on the screen when you boot up? CW/CWW motor errors sometimes mean that the motor either wired backwards, but you say it works fine with original board. So I coming to the conclusion that your 2nd and 3rd adjustments are off.

I had similar stopping at mid levels on my first try at adjusting the Potentiometers. I slowed the speed down first. With the two adjustments back at zero. I turned the second one up 1/4 of the way. Then did the same with the third one. I wrote down my notes somewhere. There is a sweet spot on the adjustments.

When You have it adjusted right. It is a sweet idea. Imagine being in a multi ball, the MPF is all the way up, You are shooting into the Dalek doors. You have two completed and just need that last one for Jackpot. The MPF times out just as your ball hits into the doorway. The MPF on its way down is stopped by the ball. The motor and gearbox are trying to bring the MPF down but can't. If you don't have cliffy's on the front of the MPF, the edge of Playfield may break away or the motor will burn up or the gearbox teeth will break and jam. I have gone through 2 motor gear boxs. The past few months, I have that ball jam just as described above twice. When it jams, I worry, then I see the MPF reverse direction and the ball falls away. I keep on playing. I know that is what you want also. If you lived closer, I would come over to help experiment with your Pots.

Lastly, if your MPF rollers are gunked up with old grease, or slides that your rollers go up and down on are not square, that friction will also make the new board think there is a jam and not work. Only use a light application of silicone lube on the sliding assembly. Mine was originally so greasy, it was fouling the Opto on the bottom of the cam.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

WOW. That Youtube video was very interesting.

Great post!

I agree with all you said.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Great post!
I agree with all you said.

I learned from the Best...You!

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

WOW. That Youtube video was very interesting.
First, You need to slow down the motor speed a bunch. Way to fast if that video was in real time.
Second, You have your game set up, so that you have to hit the center target of the MPF before you can lock your balls. This is evidenced by the lock lights flash, when you finally hit the center target. I assume it does this with original board too.
Third, I am confused by why the logic circuits kick the balls out. The ball goes in, the Opto is working and sees the ball, then it triggers the coils to shoot it out. This is like there is a Multi player game and you have chosen the option to eject the balls.
Fourth, I see that you are manually playing the game with the glass off. Do you have the micro-switch in the upper left corner of the cabinet closed with a piece of thick cardboard? Otherwise, the MPF will not operate with this switch open. But I did see it go up and down on start up.
Fifth, What errors come on the screen when you boot up? CW/CWW motor errors sometimes mean that the motor either wired backwards, but you say it works fine with original board. So I coming to the conclusion that your 2nd and 3rd adjustments are off.
I had similar stopping at mid levels on my first try at adjusting the Potentiometers. I slowed the speed down first. With the two adjustments back at zero. I turned the second one up 1/4 of the way. Then did the same with the third one. I wrote down my notes somewhere. There is a sweet spot on the adjustments.
When You have it adjusted right. It is a sweet idea. Imagine being in a multi ball, the MPF is all the way up, You are shooting into the Dalek doors. You have two completed and just need that last one for Jackpot. The MPF times out just as your ball hits into the doorway. The MPF on its way down is stopped by the ball. The motor and gearbox are trying to bring the MPF down but can't. If you don't have cliffy's on the front of the MPF, the edge of Playfield may break away or the motor will burn up or the gearbox teeth will break and jam. I have gone through 2 motor gear boxs. The past few months, I have that ball jam just as described above twice. When it jams, I worry, then I see the MPF reverse direction and the ball falls away. I keep on playing. I know that is what you want also. If you lived closer, I would come over to help experiment with your Pots.
Lastly, if your MPF rollers are gunked up with old grease, or slides that your rollers go up and down on are not square, that friction will also make the new board think there is a jam and not work. Only use a light application of silicone lube on the sliding assembly. Mine was originally so greasy, it was fouling the Opto on the bottom of the cam.

Thanks for jumping in here Tophervette and @pinball_faz. With a little help and work, this game will be up and working properly with this new board.

#14 1 year ago

Thanks everyone. It seems the biggest issues are the speed and the drag of the minipf not moving as smoothly as I thought it did. The initial instructions said to put the speed pot at about 12oclock but in reality like you said Tophervette that was way too fast, it should say to start at 8oclock instead.

I believe most of the my switch issues were the minipf not stopping quick enough causing it to be slightly out of alignment making the cpu think it was in a spot that it really wasnt (fully down vs mid vs fully up)

Once I get this cleaned up more I think it will work as intended, I'm much closer now.

#15 1 year ago

Yeah! I am still looking for my notes on where I finally ended up on those clocks on the Pots. I will report back and take a picture too.

Also, Put a Carpenters triangle on the roller frame while it is out and make sure it is square 90 degrees on both sides. My original on was bent and I had to hammer, bend back to shape, while it was locked down with C-clamp.

#16 1 year ago

Hopefully, you can zoom in on these current pictures of the positions of my 3 dials. Speed is at about 10:00 and Current and Time are at about 11:00.
It does make the MPF do a little dance sometimes up and down at start of multiball 3 floor. The ULF smooth lifter kit is awesome though. No more side wobble as cam spins. And no more scratching the decals on the metal surround.

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