(Topic ID: 115861)

Doctor Who TARDIS USB Upgrade

By Clnilsen

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 59 days ago by Erin_H
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

Dylan's_Dr_Who_495_(resized).jpg
Dylan's_Dr_Who_494_(resized).jpg
Dylan's_Dr_Who_488_(resized).jpg
IMG_3659_(resized).JPG
IMG_1535.JPG
IMG_1534.JPG
IMG_1533.JPG
IMG_1539.jpg
IMG_1538.jpg
IMG_1532.JPG
IMG_1530.jpg
IMG_1528.jpg
IMG_1526.jpg
IMG_1525.jpg
IMG_1524.jpg
IMG_1523.jpg
10
#1 9 years ago

First, let me say this is not my idea - I've seen this mentioned a few times on here as a mod for Doctor Who, but I haven't see any really discussion on how to actually go about swapping out the factory TARDIS with a - in my opinion - nicer and more detailed one in the form of a donor USB TARDIS.

That said, I thought it may be helpful for others to see whats involved in the process and get an idea of whats involved. The overall process is not too difficult, but it's not a straight swap out. Basically you need to trim out the donor TARDIS to fit, solder on the wiring pigtail, and fabricate mounting points.

1) First, we need to break apart the donor USB box. There are 4 screws on the bottom and then it pops apart. The nice thing about the USB box is that the side panels actually come apart as well. There are two screws inside that attach two opposite panels, and the other two panels are held in by notches to the two screwed in ones.

The first thing I did was cut out the switch mechanism and speaker, leaving only the led in the roof. To get the speaker out, I used an xacto knife and carefully trimmed around the edges of the speaker to cut out the glue. I then glued in the remaining switch in the front door as here:

Glued in SwitchGlued in Switch

2) Next, I started the process the trimming the box panels to fit in the space on the play field. To get a general idea of what we need to do, here's the original TARDIS and the cutaway:IMG_1524.jpgIMG_1524.jpg

I started to trim out the back corner that is next to the side ramp. Note that the TARDIS actually sits on a slight angle, so that is why we only will be trimming a partial corner. What we need to do is take out about an 1 1/4 inch high piece. IMG_1525.jpgIMG_1525.jpg We also will need to notch out the back for the bend in the wire ramp. For the cuts, I used a large cutting wheel on a dremel tool to get a straight cut. This makes it easy to get long cuts, but the one bad thing is this will leave white marks on the cuts. To solve this, later on I used an old soldering iron and heated up the edges to sort of flame-polish the edges.

The final cuts on the back looks like this: IMG_1526.jpgIMG_1526.jpgIMG_1530.jpgIMG_1530.jpg

3) Now, on to the side that the wire ramp comes out of. Note that in the factory piece, they left the full panel open. I always though this looked cheap, and wanted to leave a bit more of the panel to give a stronger impression of the side of the TARDIS. To that end, I wanted trim away as little as possible. I measured using the wire ramp as a guide. This was the closest that I could trim, keeping some portion of the side windows and and leaving and arch. IMG_1528.jpgIMG_1528.jpg

4) With regard to the LED, I cut off the plug from the original and soldered the old wires to the LED on the new TARDIS roof. For reference, yellow on the pigtail is brown on the USB box. One thing I learned was that the original wires in the USB TARDIS are small and lightly soldered, so while you're in there holding on the plug, I recommend removing and resoldering the USB wire leads connected to the LED light at the roof.

5) The last step is to fashion mounts for the new TARDIS. The original factory box is attached to the playfield by two metal brackets - you can see in the base of the factory box two screw holes. To get a point to screw into the new USB box, I cut two small pieces of white composite pvc board 1/4" thick by 3/4"x3/4" and glued each piece to the two corners at the bottom of the arch where there wire ramp runs. Mounting brackets attached at bottom of new TARDISMounting brackets attached at bottom of new TARDIS

Here's some comparisons of the final project to the original. I really like the details in the new TARDIS, versus the stickers on the factory part: IMG_1535.JPGIMG_1535.JPGIMG_1534.JPGIMG_1534.JPGIMG_1533.JPGIMG_1533.JPG

And thats it! Install and enjoy!IMG_1539.jpgIMG_1539.jpgIMG_1538.jpgIMG_1538.jpg

2 months later
#3 9 years ago

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I've had the USB Tardis for a while but haven't installed it yet. Maybe this will inspire me to actually do it!

#4 9 years ago

Where do you get this USB one?

10 months later
#6 8 years ago

Hey Clnilsen, thanks for putting together these instructions! Very much appreciated. I followed them, but for some reason the light in my Tardis isn't lighting up. I think I have a slightly newer version of the USB hub than you do (see picture). Before modifying the USB Tardis, I verified that the light worked. I have also verified that I am getting electrical current all the way to the LED wires. I checked polarity too. Not sure what else to do. Any ideas guys?

IMG_3659_(resized).JPGIMG_3659_(resized).JPG

#7 8 years ago

Where is the resistor in that circuit to the LED?

#8 8 years ago

Hmm, I don't see one.

#9 8 years ago

Perhaps the originator of the thread can provide some info if you PM him. Maybe there is a resistor that got removed when you prepped the USB Tardis for installation so a new resistor needs to be added in circuit with the LED? Might be some difference between your USB Tardis and the one the originator of the thread used, and if so he may be able to help you identify that.

#10 8 years ago

Okay, thanks for the suggestion, I will PM him. I appreciate your ideas on this.

#11 8 years ago

So what was the voltage from the original USB piece? 5v? Basically, what ever the voltage was before needs to be there after. Most likely you need a resistor to drop the voltage to what the original USB setup was?

#12 8 years ago

Hi all! Excited to see this thread alive again. I need to check mine, but I did not put in a resistor in line in mine, though catch86 is absolutely correct electrically. I'll try to check mine again this weekend to see if I missed it or what might be going on with mine to help out.

#13 8 years ago
Quoted from Catch86:

USB piece? 5v?

I thought you had to change the bulb over to a 12v, http://led-switch.com/3mm%20LED.htm

#14 8 years ago

I'm working on modding one tonight. Having to stop because some glue needs to dry.

About the LED on top. I tried mine after adding the plug from the original TARDIS, and I had no light either. But I did have a blue LED in a 44 style case handy. I took it apart and attached it to the wires. That worked for me. I just need to glue it into place.

I have no pictures, but the light on the USB hub has a plastic clip inside that's very easy to remove. Then, you can take the light off the TARDIS to remove the original LED and set it back in place. Because of the size of the LED I'm going to replace it with, I'll have to glue the LED in place.

Anyway, that's my two cents.

#15 8 years ago

Ok, I found this in the "Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!". I thought I remembered something about this and I found:

Gave my Dr who some love Yesterday. I installed the USB Tardis. Here are some pics of the adventure. Sorry for the blurry picture. I didn't realize it did not turn out. Anyhow the pictures show what I had to do to get this installed. I also added a 470 ohm resistor to the mini LED that is in the Tardis. It took about 3 hours for me to complete this.

#16 8 years ago

Great! Thanks Catch86! Much appreciated!

1 month later
#17 8 years ago

My son and I just finished doing our version.Dylan's_Dr_Who_494_(resized).jpgDylan's_Dr_Who_494_(resized).jpg

Dylan's_Dr_Who_488_(resized).jpgDylan's_Dr_Who_488_(resized).jpg

Dylan's_Dr_Who_495_(resized).jpgDylan's_Dr_Who_495_(resized).jpg

#18 8 years ago

Nice job! Like the powder coated habitrail as well!

7 years later
#19 59 days ago

I took the plunge and upgraded my TARDIS, too. It looks awesome. However, I agree with other posters that a resistor is absolutely needed to get the new LED to work. I would encourage the OP to add a message about the possible need for a resistor. I hadn't read the rest of the thread originally and wasted a lot of time trying to figure out why my LED wouldn't light. It's a true mystery to me why yours didn't need one Clnilsen! But thank you for the detailed help on modding the TARDIS!

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
£ 110.00
3,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Johnson City, TN
$ 30.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
$ 29.50
Playfield - Plastics
Pinball Haus
 
$ 109.99
Lighting - Led
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 20.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
 
$ 20.00
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Haus
 
$ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
 
$ 329.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 69.50
Boards
Pinball Haus
 
$ 14.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
$ 109.95
Electronics
PinSound
 
$ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 9.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
4,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Gresham, OR
$ 219.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Lit Frames
 
3,700 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Ronkonkoma, NY
5,750
Machine - For Sale
Bartlett, IL
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
 
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/doctor-who-tardis-usb-upgrade and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.