(Topic ID: 76377)

Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!

By HoakyPoaky

5 years ago

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#1221 2 years ago

It's smaller on the inside?

1 week later
#1232 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

What is a reasonable price on one which is in pretty decent condition?

I'm hearing 2500 to 3k but I am having a hard time finding one in my area!

1 week later
#1249 2 years ago

Hi folks-

I am considering joining the club - I was wondering what types of mods are available, other than the Dalek topper? Anything? I want to rework the game to include some of the more current doctors with a new transpire and (maybe) updated cabinet decals. Figuring I'll have to go solo for those, I'll find a place to print them up. Has anyone added a Tardis mod? Seems like it's kind of wasted on the play field

#1254 2 years ago

K9 is a must!

Thanks everybody - haven't picked out the game yet but it happening soon. Thanks for the advice - I will take it slow and already plan to add a PinSound, but obviously the ColorDMD is happening ...

#1257 2 years ago

Killer! My son used his allowance to buy a surprise box the other day and when he opened it it was a Dalek so I'm sure that is going in!

#1259 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

That's really fun when the kids get into a game adding their own toy to the theme.

That's what the whole point of getting this pin is - we love NuWho , I watched Tom Baker when I was a kid, and my kid has been asking how to solder, fix parts, add mods, lights, etc, so this will be a win-win!

#1263 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

I'm having a real problem understanding the allure to this. All of the samples on youtube have .... poor sound quality, which does not help the argument.
Although even if the sounds was fantastic some of the orchestrations IMO really don't fit the machine.
I love the David Tennant/Matt Smith sounds...just not in that game. I'm not even talking about the Disco version.
The metal version is pretty fun, but again, with a mix of old sounds and new ones... it just sounds weird.
Perhaps if ALL the sounds were replaced with a consistent theme it would fit better (at least in my mind); it would be harder to do with the callouts..but... Anyone done something like that?

Despite being a huge heavy metal guy, the Who metal theme is not my bag either, but are you sure you're listening to the higher quality youtube videos? The quality is *substantially* better than the stock setup. I bought a new PinSound specifically for this machine because of the awesome mixes.

The callouts weren't recorded new for the machine AFAIK so shouldn't be too hard to replace, but the amount of time it represents is massive. I'm working on doing that for TZ which has substantially fewer callouts, and even that's a huge pain.

#1267 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Ok, I'm going to ask a dumb question here. Is the focus of this board bright cleaner sound, power (louder), or the other features of replacing sounds, phone jacks, treble, etc?
I did a speaker upgrade last year. The sound is full and my 'pinballs' rattle during Sonic Boom.... so, plenty loud enough too. The sounds seem pretty clean and I kinda like the sounds that Jon Hey created.
Given that I'm not looking to put headphones on or swap sounds.... is the sound THAT much better that it's worth $350?

The board offers all at the above - I'm not sure how to answer which is the "focus" of the board... But it does offer bass/treble management like the flipper fidelity speakers do, you can replace the sounds to your hearts content (and should, to get the maximum benefit), you can use stereo sounds, plug in a sub using the headphone jack... The overall amp power is Way louder...

And if you have a WPC95 game, the news that a PinSound board combined with any old DMD board can replace the A/V boards (which can become unfixable) is huge huge news. Folks have said its like a ColorDMD for the sound.. I tend to agree. Sound isn't as obvious an upgrade to some but it is really important to making these games feel modern.

Is it worth $400? I was taken aback by the price too, but after taking the plunge for my TZ, it's worth it to me, just like a color DMD is a "must-have" mod for most games.

#1270 2 years ago

Hi all-

Pretty sure I will be driving home with a DW tomorrow (what??), already have the PinSound board sitting at the post office.

I will be ordering a ColorDMD too, but for now I expect I will just pull one out of one of the other games until I decide how far I will go on the DW restoration. I do want to fix up the cabinet real well.

Anyway - so what's the deal on the topper kits? I know there are two, and there seem to be advocates for both.. but what are the pros and cons of each? Or is one just unobtsnium these days? I know the DIY pinball toys one is available ..

#1271 2 years ago

Just read some of the drama with the Al Warner kit being ripped off with a crappier version yet the same name.

This is very disappointing to see someone did that, and the jacked the price up too. I'm sure they justified it with some misguided wisdom about the "free market". (Does not exist, folks! The only free market is one in which there are no participants).. anyway after reading the technical specs on the "proper" kit, it is clear it is superior... just impossible to find apparently!

#1276 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballshark:

I created the Doctorin' the Tardis, Metal, Disco and Modern Pinsound mixes. I didn't record them using an iPhone although the video quality would probably look better if I did. I used a camcorder and ran all the audio from the Pinsound headphone jack into my laptop. Then I dubbed the two together. So, any flipper sounds are picked up by the camera's mic and any music and sound effects are direct from the Pinsound board. I put about 100 hours into these 4 mixes and videos. So crank it up in your home theater or something similar, this is how it will sound in your game. Assuming the crappy stock speakers are upgraded.
» YouTube video
For the original sound call outs, Sylvester McCoy did the custom speech for the Doctor so they can't be pulled off of a show at higher quality. I tried running all the original sound effects (not the music) through various filters, converting to stereo, etc and it didn't help. It still sounded scratchy and just added to the file sizes. Perfect for Daleks, tho! The Modern mix does have some different Dalek laser sounds I grabbed from 'Genesis of the Daleks' along with Davros saying "Exterminate" at the beginning of the Davros multiball music.
I like the variety of the mixes since they are all so different. I've had this game longer than any other game in my collection and I just wanted an alternative. I still have the original mix on my pinsound usb and you can change the mix whenever you want. Even during a game. Although I have yet to really use the original mix since I installed the pinsound board.

These are the videos I specifically listened to when deciding to drop the coin for my new PinSound (I already had one in my TZ). Unfortunately you can't 'filter' bad audio to rebuild it. Speech is phenomenally more affected by low bitrates vs music, unfortunately. You can try to add reverb which will sort of gloss over the low-res audio, but it basically still sounds crap. Not so the Daleks though.. haha

These mixes sound particularly awesome, IMO - (I still hate the metal one, but that's not your fault )

PinSound just started selling a set of *really* good replacement speakers, which are far more worth it than the (also great) Flipper Fidelity speakers. They are true coaxial speakers, and the sub is full of thump. Now I need to put a set in my damn Monster Bash...

3 weeks later
#1281 2 years ago

Hey all -

I'm putting my DW back together after an intense clean-up and halfway restore. I'm getting down to replacing bulbs and tracking down some of the board issues.

Question: the flashers at the back of the cab, where Doctor #5 is: are those flashers partially on all the time? That's what mine is doing, and I've watched a couple videos, and I *think* they may actually be lit a touch, but it's too hard to tell. Wondering if maybe Q36 which controls them is bad? The test works, and they do flash.

When I power off the game, they are still lit for a few seconds until the power drains, which makes me think something's up.

1 week later
#1282 2 years ago

All right - follow-up.

I noticed that the flashers under the left ramp are also lit constantly. They do flash in test, so ... I guess it's good? Just wanted to confirm whether this is expected. I've not seen a pin with flashers that have constant power before.

Next thing: I'm working on the miniplayfield. I am having some serious issues with it all of a sudden, it was going up and down... ok.. before but I disassembled it to clean it - now it won't go up or down hardly at all. I don't *think* it's binding (followed Faz's guide to line it all up) but it's got to be something like that - it had enough power before, and was able to go up and down, so I'm not sure what to think.

Also, is it possible to misalign the cam where it is raising the MPF but the optos don't realize it? In other words, the tab is in the wrong spot so the optos think the MPF is raised or lowered all the way, but it is in fact not?


#1284 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

mini pf: check for power at the motor, should be 20v D.C. If you have power there, checkmthe motor board underneath the pf. Test the transistors on the board. I had a similar issue (motor was shot, but my game was a reimport from somewhere near water, given the rust all over) BUT the capacitor on the board went bad, leaked, and corroded the chip, and that stopped the motor totally. (Verified by swapping into my wh20, Bigfoot quit moving)

I forgot to mention - when I hook up my 12V power supply to the MPF it goes up and down all day long. Slips a little at the top, but I figure this is an alignment thing. It goes up and down when powered outside the game both CW and CCW (i.e. reverse wired) and with the entire MPF assembled as well as just the brackets themselves.

So I'm thinking either a) not enough power is getting to the motor (will test that), or b) something is binding so bad it just can't move

next I'll swap the driver board with my TZ or creature and see what happens..

#1286 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

So it moves when the bi directional board is bypassed....problem on that board then. I'm going with the capacitor is bad, and possibly leaked it's guts and corroded something(s) on the board. Follow your power cables from the motor to the board.

Well that sounds fun...lol. I'll check in the morning - thanks man

#1287 2 years ago

All right, checked the motor board... seems to check out. The LED is on, I don't see any physical corrosion or a bad cap, but I have not checked with a DMM.

The weird thing is, the MPF worked fairly well before I disassembled the machine, so I'm inclined to think I screwed something up when I put it back together... but it works fine when connected to a 12V wall wart.

I did add a pinsound, and I can't remember if I tested the MPF after I added it. I need to swap out the driver board with another one of my machines and see what's up.

Still the restore is coming along pretty well, got my cliffys in!

#1289 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

I'd like to see the behavior if possible. Can you add a video?
I can't tell from your description if it's binding or just moving oddly during the motion.
Actually, you may want to start a new thread... but you're call.

Thanks Rich - I will start a new thread. I am basically done and would like to play a game or two! I can certainly add s video. I don't think it's binding since it goes up and down when powered outside the game . I tested it fully loaded and held it up in the air to simulate it being installed in the game.

It sort of tries to go up and I can hear the motor going, but not much happens. It goes up maybe 1/16 of an inch, then down, and logs an error. On start, Test says no CW movement and also no CCW movement. Could it Just not be getting enough power from the driver board?

I'll add a video when I get home.

#1292 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Wow... that was easier than I expected:
If the main gear breaks from the arbor I've seen MPFs not hold. But the action is way different. It "falls" rather than glides down. If there's a broken tooth it would pulse up.
I made up a test to catch this, but was reluctant to throw that log into the fire because it seems really unlikely.
Gear Box test:
** Pull the motor/gearbox assembly off the MPF; leave the motor connected to the gear box
** Get a pair of leather garden gloves.
** Hook the motor up to power and grab the arbor wearing the gloves. Let the arbor spin under light pressure. If there's a broken tooth you should feel a hitch. If you can stop the arbor at all with human pressure, the collet has most likely separated from one of the gearbox axles (big one).
** Run the above test for a few revolutions both directions.
** Separate the motor from the gear box
** The motor will spin crazy fast; be careful. Start up the motor; with the glove on... slowly start to add pressure onto the gear. The motor has a single small gear on its arbor. You should not be able to stop the gear or even cause the gear to move on the arbor.

That's fantastic stuff! I read the threads about the internal issues the gearbox can have (where the collet and gear spin independently from the spindle) and have been reluctant to drill out the rivets yet. My situation didn't seem the same. I'll try these tests first!!

#1294 2 years ago

All right, here's a video of my time expander. Note I have cliffys on but i experienced the same situation before installing them. As far as I can tell, the surfaces are not binding on the edges - the Mpf is pushed fully back in the brackets.

#1296 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Same issue mine had. Like I mentioned, I bet it's on the bi directional board. Can you post a pic of it?

No kidding? Yep, I will go take one now...

image (resized).jpg

#1297 2 years ago

And turned on (not that this matters, in hindsight)

image (resized).jpg

And here's the back, which definitely looks a little suspect. Looks worse in the photo though. I can't tell if it's been worked on or not

image (resized).jpg

#1299 2 years ago

Ok test 1 out of the machine

And counter clockwise (reversed wires)

I did notice that it's slipping a bit on the CCW movement, thought I had fixed that. Maybe it is a bad gear? But I don't get why it works outside of the playfield ok

#1302 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Pretty slick at pulling that MPF out
Motor action looks pretty smooth. That wobble at the top is not hideous. I've seen much worse.
The brackets must be pretty straight because it's taking the weight.
Are you sure it's centered in the hole? All those Cliffy's can add up.
Oh, crud... should have asked. You don't have a CPR repro MPF do you? Those are notorious for being 1/8" proud.

I've taken this MPF out about 100 times in the past 2 weeks, still get tripped up by the under-playfield bracket, but I can pull it quick! No, it's an original MPF. I followed your guide to the T on the brackets! I wish I could get it a little smoother, but at this point I just want it to work nicely in the game.

Cleaned all the hardened black grease, applied silicon grease, reassembled the whole thing last night. I am fairly certain it's centered, although it does seem the right side fits a tiny bit closer than the left. However, I had this exact same situation before adding the Cliffys so I don't think they're a major contribution. I can slip a thin piece of plastic in there so it doesn't seem to be binding.

#1303 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Just watched the video again. It's stalling on something. But not to discount dsuperbee check the voltage to the motor.
I unplugged the motor and put my DMM on the connector (power end) to see what was happening. Ran it through the cycle.
» YouTube video

awesome. Thanks - I will check now. I assume I just put the DMM on each end while running?

#1306 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Yup! It's a simple DC current, just like your wall wart. Should be in the 20V zone. Polarity shifts to drive the MPF up / down or if need be switching the polarity will help the shields in the event of a Klingon attack


#1309 2 years ago

Ok yeah it definitely has something to do with the board. Damn it! It was working before I pulled everything apart. I am getting basically no signal from the DMM when running

#1310 2 years ago

Thanks a bunch guys - I will look more into the board; hopefully I have some of the parts needed. Or I wonder if the board is for sale somewhere

#1312 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

They aren't reproduced yet.

Homepin has made one apparently, but not sure if they are available in the US...

Arrgh back to the DMM. I have a couple of transistors in case that ends up being the problem.

#1314 2 years ago

Thanks Homepin - the John's Arcade site says all over the place that they only sell to AUS and NZ - I sent an email asking if they would sell to me since Rockland pinball (who appears to be the US distributor) does not list it on their site. Can you ask John's Arcade to sell me one ? I also reached out to another pinsider who had a redesigned board. We'll see - I will try to rebuild my board too but i was too tired to test the board last night to see what failed (the cap?)

#1316 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

I could be talking out my butt, but the board is there and most of the components are there. Looks like there's less than 30 of them.
Given the relatively simple nature of the board, would a rebuild yourself be out of the order? Or if you're not comfortable with board work, maybe one of the usual suspects would take it on.
That might be a simpler/cheaper fix.

I agree - I'm going to try working on them first, but I'm hedging my bet. If it's already been repaired and failed now for a second (or more!) time, I feel like it might turn into a big time suck. I wish there was a bag of "pinball components which commonly fail" so I could just order that like I order the big tub of rubbers from PBL

At the same time, it's $40 to repair the board from CoinOp Cauldron... as much as I trust those guys, that ain't worth it, plus the machine would still be out of commission for them to fix and send back. So I'm going to try and figure out which piece is hosed, order it, then fix it - or at least try to. I still want to swap out my PDB with my TZ, I keep forgetting to do that.

#1318 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:


Heck yes! I did not realize that TZ had the exact board.
You can trace both boards too!

To be clear, I was talking about the power driver board, not the motor board, unfortunately I think that's only used on CV

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I wish there was a bag of "pinball components which commonly fail" so I could just order that like I order the big tub of rubbers from PBL

Well, it's not PBL but just found this! haha

#1321 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

The bidirectional board ia used on cv, wh2o, and dw. So of you have a friend with those games, swap the boards and see if the problem stays or goes away.

Yep... so.. yeah no, not close enough nearby. I'll make a trip to radio shack tomorrow (there is ONE left in DC which carries parts) and see what we can do. Gotta work tonight but I WILL GET THIS GAME playing!

#1323 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Hoping you aren't as unlucky as me and it ends up being the motor and the board.

The motor actually looks pretty good - it tests out ok, so i'm hoping it's just the board! I haven't been able to test things thoroughly yet, so i don't know what part is bad, but hopefully I can get to that today. Funny thing is, everything was working before, and it just seems hard to believe the board blew something so quickly.

#1326 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Mine went bad in 2 games. Everything was working great, next game motor slowed down to a crawl, next game....didn't move at all. The game is 20+ years old, so stuff breaking should be expected

That sucks! Well, I haven't played *one* game on this one yet, so I would have loved to at least have that! PinballDoctor is saving the day, shipping me a new board. I'm headed to FLorida on sunday so I won't have parts from Marco before I leave... I'm hoping I can put the new board in the game and just GO! I'll repair the board, and probably sell one of them once we've bulletproofed the game.

Question on flashers: do the flashers under the left ramp and behind the back wall (doctor #5) stay on all the time?

#1330 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

No flashers should be on all the time. If your flashers remain lit, you have a transistor issue somewhere.

I figured; just wanted to check! I replaced the Q that controls the flasher behind Doctor #5, so I'll check the rest of the board.

#1331 2 years ago
Quoted from rgb635:

Coin-op Cauldron can repair your board like new. Mine was not working correctly and they repaired it. I damaged it again during some modding and re-installations and sent it back to them for a second fix. Excellent outcome. Its been going strong since.

Yep they are the man! (The men?). I may send my power driver board there eventually, I am getting tired of fooling with all these little things. Our basement flooded last night (only one game in the danger zone luckily.. of course it was DW). So I'll be dealing with that today...

#1332 2 years ago

Work in progress ...

Still no MPF but the game is looking really good!

Yes I went nuts with the LEDs... I figure if ANY game could benefit from LEDs, it's the Doctor...

Backbox didn't come out good, it looks really good in person

1 week later
#1336 2 years ago

Hi guys - I'm back from my trip, and back to work on the miniplayfield.
So I got a new bidirectional motor board from the pinball doctor (thank you again!) and installed it... still no luck. It seems like there's not power getting to the motor somehow. I also noticed when shutting off the game, the LED on that board stays lit a long time

Anyway, so I hooked up my 12v supply to the mpf while installed, and you can see the results here:

Any thoughts ? Time for a new power board? This is pretty confusing since the thing worked when I first got it and all I've done is remove the MPF and clean it up. Seems like the gears may be slipping but it obviously moves up and down fine

#1338 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Boy that looks like a broken gear box to me. Either a broken tooth or a gear that has sheered from a collet or collet sheered from an arbor.
Did you ever do the test I recommended?
These group threads are so hard to track what's going on.
One other scenario I've seen played out was extremely unexpected. The guys brackets were missing a part; one of the rollers. The next time you have the MPF out can you run the test you did in your video below... but show the camera from the back. I'd want to see how the rotation of the cam is interacting with the brackets. I don't think we've seen that side of the bracket before.
» YouTube video

First, faz thank you SO much for the assistance. I realize this takes time, and boy do I appreciate it. I'll do a vid from the back later today. I did not do the other test - the slipping just from looking at it alone looks exactly like a broken gear box, I agree.

My more pressing issue is why the game won't move the mpf at all, but plugging in that 12V worked immediately.

#1340 2 years ago
Quoted from Catch86:

Ouch that gearbox. Did you check the voltage at the connector of the motor while in the testmode? Did you make sure the interlock is closed while doing this? If there is no voltage at that connector then did you check voltage at the output of the Bi-directional Motor board J2? Did you check the input to the Bi-directional Motor board J1?

I didn't have a chance to test the voltage at the new board but will do so when I get home from work. I'm going to have to verify, but I believe DW does not have an interlock. Thanks for the checklist!

#1342 2 years ago
Quoted from Catch86:

Playfield Glass Interlock.

Gotcha! Mine is hard wired so I'm good there. About to go down to start measuring voltages

#1347 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Hey everyone,
Finally shot a super short (and super crappy) showing my mod mod. Check it out! (I will shoot a better video later on when I have more time!)
» YouTube video

Looks awesome! ... but I can't tell what you modded? Wish my mini PF worked that well!

#1350 2 years ago

Oh I see it now. Bad ass!!

#1351 2 years ago

Ok everybody - thanks again for all the help.

I have not had a chance to take my MPF out again, faz, but hopefully tomorrow.

I DID however have a chance to test my power driver board, and I suspect Q20 which controls the MPF may be shorted. I think this would explain the way it raises/lowers (or rather, basically *doesn't*) while in the game but how it works fine when powered externally. I did the quick tab-and-ground test on that transistor, and it had basically no reading. I have a couple of TIP102s that I can swap in there, I think I may try this tonight.

#1352 2 years ago

Ok I forgot to post this from the other day - here is the MPF from the back.

Fax: is it possible the opto is out of alignment somehow? I wonder if maybe I put the mech back together wrong and the little tab isn't passing in front of the opto at the right time?

I'm checking for broken wires in the cab; can't think of what else could be the problem!

EDIT: forgot the link!!

#1353 2 years ago

Progress update:

I did faz's test with the leather glove - I could *not* stop the gears from turning - I think the motor is good.

The gearbox, however, seems to have the usual slippage.

I am feeling like maybe the MPF supports aren't letting things move as easily as they should - I found that cross-beam was too loose. Pulling the MPF support legs closer together and tightening the cross-beam seemed to help.. Stay tuned...

#1355 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Sorry, out this weekend.
I guess I wanted to see the front of the MPF not the back. With the scoop off.
That action really looks like you are missing the roller from the cam. This roller runs side to side in the bracket. It's what transfers the circular motion to a horizontal one. Is that roller there?

No problemo, faz. I disassembled the whole thing yesterday to check for binding - I realized some of the screws had come loose (especially on the bar that fits across both support struts). Do you mean the roller pictured below? Yes, that is in there.

Also, I did finally do the test with the leather glove - I am not really able to stop the rotation, so I believe my motor is good. I think the gearbox may have the issue where the spindle is loose from that primary gear, though. The motor was pretty darn strong, even with just a 9V powering it.

DW roller (resized).png

#1357 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Yup, that's the roller I'm talking about. The lip of that roller is facing INTO the slot...right? I've seen it missing causing this action. I don't know if it even fits going on backward but I need to ask. What's the condition of the roller? Any flat spots, it should look like your other rollers that go on the sides.
As for the gear box. I'm getting mixed messages in your posts. The 'glove' test is two fold. First, just the motor. Grab the gear hard and see if it drags you along. It's a high torque motor, so not surprised you can't stop it... so that's great at least.
The second part of the test is to hook the motor to the gear box and repeat, grabbing the arbor out of the gear box. Is that slipping at all? It should be harder to stop than the gear because it's increasing the torque many MANY times.
Can you take one more video on the bench? Pull the chutes off and let's see the action from the front. IF the motor is good and the gear box is good, there's something mechanical that's not playing nice. Removing the chute may reveal the issue.

That picture wasn't from my game, by the way - I just grabbed one to make sure I knew what you were talking about!

It's definitely there; I did not remove that from my game at all when I originally disassembled it. It does look like the large rotating disc may be a little bent though, which may be contributing. I think I'll remove that whole thing today and see if I need to clean it - it's not moving as smoothly as I'd expect. Neither is it moving up the support struts quite as smoothly as I'd expect. I used silicon grease, but maybe I need something thicker, like lithium?

I'll repeat the glove test with the gear box this time - I am fairly certain that's got something wrong with it but I haven't drilled out the rivets to check.

Will do another video - just so I know what you mean - by 'chutes' you are referring to the Dalek target apparatus, yes?

#1359 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Big no on Lithium grease. IT will just cake up with dirt and harden into a gross mess.
A thin coat of silicone is going to do fine. Especially if it's just in your house. If it's on route, probably a touch up each time the game is shopped out.
Yes, the chutes I'm talking about is the Dalek target assembly with the 'chutes', 'scoops', 'big metal thing-y'. Pull that out of the way so the full motion up/down can be seen.
We're getting close. I feel it!!!! You'll be play'in soon

Man, I hope your'e right!

I took apart the roller you mentioned earlier and man, that was dirty again somehow. I took the whole thing apart, the big wheel, the rollers, the E clip, etc. Cleaned that up - it is running very nicely now. I also grabbed the spindle with the glove, and I could not get that to slip.

SO that was puzzling - I took a closer look, and it looks to me that the collet on the big disc is actually worn - it's not a nice "D" shape as it should be. I wonder if maybe the set screws had come loose, and the game operated but wore down that inner part. Not sure there's a way to fix that - but I jammed the set screws in there tight, and it is running smoothly now!

I haven't put it back in the game yet - I am going to remove the dalek chutes and get you a video first. The brackets need to be screwed back into the wood first, will get to that in a bit.

#1360 2 years ago

Ok here we go:

#1361 2 years ago

Ok reinstalled the MPF...

Same stuff. Man! I pulled the main PF up, then went into test mode - if I very very gently put a tiny bit of pressure on the bracket and push, the MPF will go up and then back down, but it -will- not do it on its own.

I bit the bullet and ordered a new motor from Marco. If I replace that the ONLY thing in the signal path I haven't replaced is the PDB, (and I'm not in a big hurry to pay for that.)

Seems Sort of unlikely though; I put the PDB from my creature in there - same exact results! it's definitely trying to move when installed inthe game - I can hear the motor try to turn slowly. I am really confused by this - if a 9V BATTERY can move the thing, why can't the game? The binding couldn't be that bad. There's got to be something I'm overlooking, but I think I've gone over every inch of this darn game.

#1363 2 years ago

Yeah, we're getting there -

I did re-check the voltages coming out of the connector the other day, but at the time the game was resetting due to a burned connector. I fixed that, now will re-test!

I'll hook it up right now, I still have my 9V battery.

#1364 2 years ago

Ok re-inserted to PF with 9v battery.

And here's the voltage test

Showing 12V! Unless I'm reading it wrong

So... I'm stumped .. ha!
Edit: I just noticed I had the DMM set to measure resistance. Re-measuring ...

Ok I believe what I am seeing is I'm only getting 6V ... which might explain the issue. Will post a vid in a second...

#1365 2 years ago


6V? Or am I reading it wrong?

#1367 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

That really is FANTASTIC and STINKS at the same time.
Fantastic that the MPF now moves up and down Smoooooooooooooooooooothly with a constant source.
The first test at 12 volts is a bit odd. That's supposed to be 20VDC
The second video is invalid. I'm pretty sure you have the DMM set on OHMS rather than voltage
But I think I'd like to see the full cycle run (like my video). Also make sure we can see the full DMD (what mode the game it's in CW, CCW, UP, Down... lots of info in there) along with the DMM voltage in the same frame. If you can move the DMM closer to the DMD and zoom it it would help as the symbols are pretty small.

Aha! All right, still learning the DMM I guess. I thought I had it right the first time, but outsmarted myself.
You bet! stand by.

#1368 2 years ago

Here we go - 12v all around i guess. I ran through it s couple of times

I know the MPF is powered from j-106 - not sure how to measure that though. Can I just hit that pin and the ground braid?

#1370 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Sorry... Monday's is Boy Scout night.
Did you check all the test points on the power driver board? The dip in voltage could be more systemic.
Use the schematics / diagrams to find the test points. Set DMM accordingly. If you need schematics, let me know. I can PM you a copy.

Hey faz. - no sweat at all. I did check the test points, didn't see anything major, but will post the findings

#1371 2 years ago

Here are my voltages. These look pretty good

Tp1 - 14.4
Tp2 - 4.7
Tp3 - 11.6
Tp4 - 0.02
Tp5 -
Tp6 - 75.2
Tp7 - 22.0
Tp8- 17.3

#1373 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Very odd. Do the flashers work? That 20V circuit controls flashers AND the motor. All the DR Flashers (1-7) and the MPF flasher, Second Chance.
The 20V is pushed through J106 and J107 but I "think" J106 is not used. I'm not sure the notation in the manual.
However, the motor is driven off J107-6. Can you check the voltage ahead of the Bi-Directional board?
Dip into the connector that goes into the board (not the driver board) and check pin 4/5. Pin 4 s/b ground and pin 5 s/b 20V+.


Will do. Sorry - typo on J106/7. It's J107, pin 6 as you said.

Checking now

#1375 2 years ago

Ok checked on the Bi-directional board. It says 15.2V or so.

#1376 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Oh, and what do the LEDs look like on the power driver board?
LED1-7 All should be on except for LED3.

They are all good. Maybe this is an issue with the wiring between the board and the motor?

I tried to hook up jumpers from the little board and the motor directly, just with alligator clips, but it didn't seem to do much.

#1378 2 years ago

Ok I'm getting about 21.7/21.9 or so at both pins. That would seem to point to a wiring issue? I haven't re-pinned that connector as it looks ok

J106 has a single wire coming from (I think) pin 6. I'm in the car now, will have to re check in a bit

#1380 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

I'm guessing that's J106-5 (there's only 5 pins )
It could be the flashers. A short in one of the sockets may cause the circuit to be wacko (technical term).
This has entered 'quest mode' now. Plug J107 back in. Then unplug all the flashers in the head/MPF (just remove the lamps). Then test the voltage on J1 (Bi-Directional Board). Is it back up? If it is, then add back one flasher at a time and retest.
Please turn the power off between removing / adding the lamps from the sockets. A slip of the hand will cause the magic smoke to appear.

Yeah let's stay away from the magic smoke!

I do have 2 flashers (the one behind the backboard behind Doctor 5, and the left ramp flashers ) that seem to stay lit a tiny bit - like their transistor is bad. I forgot to check whether or not they stayed on when I swapped with my CFTBL board, shoot. If I understand the way the flasher power distribution works, a couple of lamps may be pulling enough voltage to drop the overall to 15.x (?). Seems like that could be. Man I never would have thought of this!

Ok I want to make sure I understand - I plug j107 back in, then remove flasher lamps in the backbox and the mini play field?

I have to thank you again - as a software developer and car mechanic (as a kid) I've learned to troubleshoot pretty well - but I haven't had the electrical foundation to troubleshoot well- this is helping me learn a lot!

Will get back to the game this afternoon - have to go earn my keep

#1382 2 years ago

Man, I miss my TAF. Sold it for a MB which I like... but I dont' think I like it quite as much as TAF. Buyer's remorse probably.

Ok so here's something interesting -

I pulled a couple of the problematic flashers which had been staying lit. Pulled the 4 I mentioned - in the left ramp and behind the 5th doctor. I had plugged J107 back in, but the MPF small control board wasn't getting power. I reseated that, now it's getting power.

Now when I put the MPF in test mode, and hit both flippers - it's like the game is getting reset. I have one of Rob Kahr's boards in there to keep the game from resetting just in case - so this is a new issue. The speakers 'pop' like when you turn the game on or off, the DMD get a weird line through it for a split second - but it stays lit. Then I can hear the sound board resetting.

I'm going to plug the flashers back in and remove them one at a time to see what's goingon...

#1384 2 years ago

All right..

So yeah there's something going on w/ the flashers there. The miniplayfield control board loses power when I pull the rightmost flasher behind Doctor 5. That shouldn't happen, obviously, so maybe I've got a Tx that's bad. I suspected as much earlier, but didn't realize how much effect that would have. I guess it must have blown some time after I got this game though.

This board is also resetting so I'm thinking I'll have to go back to getting it repaired. ?

#1385 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

You have a short somewhere! Look at each one of those sockets. Watch for anything touching the socket housing.
Check all the TP again before you start messing with the sockets. A change in voltage might give a clue where to look.

Will do, thanks. I will have to walk through what I changed; not sure I moved too much around

#1386 2 years ago

OK TPs values are the same. My 5V looks low (which is expected I suppose)

So checking sockets now. Really bizarre this would start now..

#1387 2 years ago

Found this too:

I think it's going to that flasher that isn't working correctly. I can't see very well back behind where the flasher is, but I think it goes there.

Does your DW have this wire just hanging loose?

IMG_1642 (resized).JPG

#1389 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

I'm at work now but I'm going on a limb to say, "No". Wires dangling like that are E-V-I-L.
What do they go to? I see yellow/white. What's the other one?

It's just the one - it's red/white (power, obviously) I'm not sure what it should be going to. The connector where the other end of that wire is still connected is going to that molex plug that I think goes to the flashers

#1393 2 years ago

Yep that pic Catch86 posted is the connector the wire originates from. So where does the other end go?

#1394 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Oh, wait... I was talking about the wire that looks like it's floating at the top of the photo.
I thought the red one was part of a bundle. Now I see. Broke off somewhere. I'll check tonight.
How's this bad-boy attached. Bare wires look to be floating in the pic.


I saw that too when I took the pic - it's a weirdly soldered bundle for sure; I think it's connected to the lamp that's close by

#1396 2 years ago
Quoted from Catch86:

Oh, so what you're saying is that the RED/WHT wire you're holding is going into that connector?

Yes, that's correct - but I don't know where the other end goes. It looks like it might have been cut - there's no bare wire, it goes right up to the insulation.

#1398 2 years ago
Quoted from Catch86:

Looking at the manual it looks like this RED/WHT wire comes from the Power Driver Board and drives a bunch of things including the Motor Drive Board and Flash Lamps.

That's right - it's pigtailed though - there's actually 2 wires coming out of the connector; one is still connected so it is passing power, but I wonder if this is contributing to my issues with the mini playfield.

#1400 2 years ago

If anybody could lift their game to check on that I'd be grateful!

#1402 2 years ago
Quoted from Fuse:

Hope this helps

Hey thanks Fuse - can you confirm where the two red/white wires go? (the end opposite that connector) i can't see that in the picture

#1407 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

I have the PF up. Theres only a few red/white wires but im not even sure thats the colors. Where does the loose wire go?
Btw... That yellow/white wire looks just like fuse's game. Goes to pop

I'll do a video after my kid goes to bed; I don't think photos are sufficient to give the right context. I'm pretty sure it's red/white though; in approx 20 minutes

#1408 2 years ago
Quoted from Fuse:

Anyone had an issue where in multi ball the balls won't eject by the phone booth. Registers in test mode and ejects fine on single ball play. Not familiar with this game. Just got it working last night. I've had 2 balls sitting in the vuk but nothing happens until ball search

The "phone booth"?

#1411 2 years ago
Quoted from Fuse:

Yeah. Thats what I mean

Oh! Police Box

#1412 2 years ago

Here's my quick video, hope it helps figure out where the wire is going. I am going to figure out where the wire that is still connected is going to.

Ok yes I've had a couple glasses of wine

#1415 2 years ago

That is huge! I'll try it

#1418 2 years ago

Warning... not for the faint of heart..

#1419 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Warning... not for the faint of heart..
» YouTube video

That's what I'm talking about!!! Holy crap. You guys are -the- best.

Fuse, catch86 and faz you guys have saved the day! (And saved me from spending $400 on new parts!!)

Faz that mpf runs SO much more smoothly after running through your guide. I don't have a video of it but it was.. not good, even when it worked well. It canted to the side horribly and you could tell the motor was really working hard.

Yes! I can't tell you how happy I am. No the video doesn't express it enough, I was being cool

#1424 2 years ago
Quoted from Fuse:

You scared me, I thought you put on a smoke show or something.

Sorry, that was kind of mean! I was a little scared when I did it but usually same color wire is safe to put together: how about that smooth movement! (Ok I could have phrased that better)

#1425 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

All right! Nice. looks great too... nice and smooooth!
Hey, if you want to get rid of that error count.... while in test, hit the "credit" button.

Will do! I was curious about that.

Will post once I have my new sound mix going to town! Woo! I have NEVER played a game on this machine because of that dang wire!... let's fix that...

#1427 2 years ago

Thanks to you and fuse and faz!

I'm going to go work on it a bit; my goal is to update it a little, new translite, new music (preview in the vid I posted sort of). I want a mix of the old and new - since you can't really hear what the doctor is saying (it's the seventh doctor in all the callouts), I didn't feel bad in replacing some of the phrases. Most of them don't really apply to the game anyway. I got some good dalek sound bites too!

#1429 2 years ago

MPF still working very well - quick question though; I am getting an error message of "no CCW movement". The MPF seems able to do what it needs to do, but I'm wondering what this error is about?

In test the MPF goes up and down fine, but I can't get the error to go away. Is this just a red herring? I'd like to get rid of the credit dot but the game is playing fine.

In other news, the issues I had with my flashers were fixed by the ONE dang wire, so that's all still working excellently as well.

arcadetechnerd can you confirm that you did not have to do anything special with the Doctor light board? The LCD had to be positioned very high, but if the LED board is a perfect fit, it would seem you don't need to do anything unusual?

#1431 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

The MPF can drive up and down by CW or CCW movement. It's possible the Bi-Directional board is having issues and power is not pushing the MPF up the CCW path. WPC compensates for missing switches. I would not be surprised (this is a guess on my part) that if the MPF CCW is not working it would compensate by driving the MPF via CW movement.
Unplug the motor and put the DMM into the circuit again. See what's coming out. Actually, I'd like to see if your voltages are back up to spec after the flasher issues are fixed.

Flashers are fixed - it was ALL being caused by that one piggybacked wire. You may remember me posting about flashers 6 or 7 weeks ago - I am pretty sure that wire was it all along. (I even replaced a TIP102 on my PDB!)

Have not re-checked the voltages since the other day though. What you stated about the CW movement compensating seems to be the case; it just goes all the way up/down then back again to go to the middle. Works fine, but I can tell now that it would be better to drive both ways.

I have a replacement Bi-D motor board,so I will try that and see if I get any different results.

ALSO just noticed there's a wire missing that completes the "lock" lights circuit in the MPF. so I've got to remove it... again... lol I noticed those were out weeks ago and just figured they were bad bulbs, so I replaced them with LEDs, but I realized last night they dont' light up at all. Another wire... not sure to where it needs to be connected.

Sidebar: I LOVE THIS GAME! I am loving the complicated rules and the MPF is awesome! love the loop shots especially.

#1437 2 years ago
Quoted from Catch86:

You should have checked the voltage in test mode? Does it go positive voltage and negative voltage? If the other board doesn't fix it then it's possible the motor wires are reversed? That would happen if the motor was replaced at one time. The color of the wires might be the same but the direction the motor spins might be reversed.

Yes, I did test the voltage, but I wasn't paying attention to the voltage indicator at the time, only the values. I can definitely check that - it wasn't obvious that the wires had been reversed, but it's an easy test to swap them. I've got to take the MPF out again to fix the 'lock' wire. Looking forward to really getting this game solid! ... and I need to buy a new "C" clip for one of the mushroom target; one of them keeps getting stuck.

1 week later
#1445 2 years ago

A little while ago I started working on an enhancement to the DR. Who Modern mix for the pinsound boards. One of the biggest sound-related issues with this game is that the callouts are REALLY hard to understand. The Daleks are semi-coherent but I basically can't figure out what Doc 7 is saying most of the time.

Since we are fans of the new dr. Who, and the premise of the game is that all the doctors come together I figured maybe I would start on some different callouts using better quality audio.

My intention isn't to try and reproduce the exact phrases but to use clips that reflect the same 'idea'. I'm not even close to being done, and have many more sounds in there that just didn't trigger; several events have 3 or 4 different sounds that can play. One thing I am learning is they can't be very long clips!!

I have a little K-9 up on the hang on ramp (left side) which is why you hear him say "affirmative, master" when I hit the loop. Played some of the worst games of my life trying to shoot this!

Also got the cow doctor for the first time!

Dalek topper is at the very end...

1 week later
#1450 2 years ago

Has anybody ever seen the ramp decals for sale? (I mean without the ramps). I am missing a decal on the Hangon ramp and in general my ramp decals are kinda iffy

#1452 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Not yet but you may want to message the places that sell the reproductions with stickers to see if they have a spare set of stickers to sell. Doesn't hurt to ask.

That's a good idea, thx

#1455 2 years ago

Can you guys post a picture of the broken covers? I have been using Bondic Liquid Welder to repair a lot of stuff lately; fixed my top ramp with it recently (it was missing the entire top section with the post hole at the entrance). Anyway, I am trying to decide whether I should spring for the new Time Expander, or go for some other parts I am also in need of.

#1461 2 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Just saw in another post that Doctor Who ramps will be available within a couple weeks at Starship Fantasy!

Any idea on price? I still see a set for sale at Little Shop, but I think they are $250. Is Starship Fantasy reproducing the decals too? Those ramps are covered with stickers

3 weeks later
#1485 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

That panel looks great! EL panel correct?

Completely LED-lit from behind, not EL-wire, which will lose brightness over time and eventually not light at all (I know - I have one of the original EL wire Twilight Zone backboards)

Comes with a remote control with which you can dial in specific color schemes (works best on certain games but functions on all)

I will have one installed in my Nu-DW pin soon, and will post pics and a video

#1487 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

El panels are not El wire. Pretty sure it is paper, given one of the photos above. Thinking about building my own.

Poor choice of words on my part. EL panels are made using the same electro-luminance approach that EL-wire uses. A plastic panel or wire is coated with the EL solution, electricity is applied, and the EL coating lights up. Eventually that coating wears out or comes off, and you've just got a dimly lit piece of plastic.

That's not how these panels are made - these panels have LEDs embedded in a form mold which has transparent silicone poured in to allow the lights to shine through. It is a seriously robust final product. You replace the entire wood panel that the plastic artwork sits on top of, and it is evenly lit front behind.

#1489 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Gotcha. I did read the panels have a limited life, although it is pretty long. If the above process is what is done, I can see why they are expensive. How thin is the above process? Seems like it would be thicker than a panel, but still thin enough to not cause fitment issues.

I'm not an expert on the EL stuff but solely with my experience on the twilight zone backboard, it's about a 10 year span, but apparently it dims slowly over time so you start to notice it sooner.

I'd have to measure the board thickness but the panel starts with a piece of backing wood or MDF to give it a solid form to start from, so it doesn't warp. That's sanded and then the silicone poured. It ends up being the same thickness as the main dmd panel - the -whole thing- speaker mounts, dmd and everything. Then you take the plastic panel with the art on it and put it in front. So it is fully backlit. They look awesome in a game. I posted some pics of my CFTBL, have not installed DW yet.

IMG_1683 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#1495 2 years ago

Mine are set at the top and for the first few weeks I was really frustrated. I've gotten a little more cautious now and am playing much better, but I think I am going to adjust the posts so guests actually want to play the machine! I still get a lot of cheap drains where the ball comes off the pops or bounces off a post, never touches a flipper, and is immediately gone.

#1496 2 years ago
Quoted from damadczar:

Woohoo! Joined the club today.

Wow no fade at all!

#1498 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

He's got some on the front, but way better than most!

Oh yeah I see it - still, there's RED on them decals!

#1501 2 years ago

Someone on PS is selling a topper - it's not a moving one, but making the dalek move isn't that hard if you buy one of the kits . Be prepared to spend $$$ though

#1507 2 years ago
Quoted from damadczar:

Thanks. Yeah, I saw that. But at roughly $400 US (plus shipping), that's a tough pill to swallow. I'd rather spend $30 buying a large dalek toy off eBay/Amazon and putting it up there. Nobody will know but me...

I get it - those things are ULTRA rare though; might be worth a second thought. The game is definitely worth more with it (though whether it's worth $400 would have to be looked at). It hasn't sold AFAIK- you may be able to strike a deal

#1509 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

$400 seems to be the magic number these days.
But, if you're going to spend that $400 I'd recommend the ColorDMD for DW be the first spend. As a player I really enjoy the ColorDMD more than my moving topper (which the assembly was $400). Shimoda got the dots "right".


#1511 2 years ago

I love this game! Finally got it cleaned up (EVERY plastic was a deep yellow) - came dirty as heck, half the lights weren't working due to cracked solder joints, minor blemish in PF I will probably have re-cleared some day, and just usual cab wear and tear, but nothing crazy. Need to polish and re-decal the Dalek box eventually.

ColorDMD installed, Pinsound board with drastically different callouts (my attempt at changing the story of the game a bit, includes new doctors 9-11), moving topper, lit speaker panel, WAY too bright LEDs on the coin mech, FULLY cleaned and polished and working MPF thanks to faz, alt translite, and only 1 toy - a K-9 which replaces the left-hand Whomobile.

IMG_1921 (resized).JPG

IMG_1923 (resized).JPG

IMG_1922 (resized).JPG

IMG_1924 (resized).JPG

#1514 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Except it doesn't match up with the original light show at all, which will make it look weird in person. To each their own though.

Funny you should say that - I "auditioned" this and the other alt translite, and while you are correct the other one doesn't match up at all, this one absolutely does. The main flashers are behind the DW logo, the Tardis, the Daleks and the light show looks really really good. I really prefer the color scheme on this one better, too. I put a blue light under the blue thing in Davros' head (upper right) and it lines up perfectly. Really well done, this one.

#1515 2 years ago
Quoted from jorant:

Holy hell, that is a beautiful machine. That backless is amazing. Normally I hate alternate translights, but THAT ONE is amazing. I'm looking at buying a Doctor Who soon. Not soon enough.

Thanks BTW, you wouldnt' believe what it looked like before I cleaned it up. under the PF still needs a little work but I would never have believed it would clean up this nice. I am missing one decal on the Sonic Boom ramp though, not sure how a whole decal is just missing. It's the one on the left right above the "Repair" targets.

#1517 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

There is no way the doctor who lights on the backboard line up with the logo on that translite. The lights are in the upper center of the backbackboard, and that DW logo isn't dead center. The flasher lines up with the logo, but you have an awesome light show going off behind a few planets.

I'll post a video; I do think it looks good

#1518 2 years ago

Took this a little while ago. It's hard to hold the phone and play with one hand!!

#1521 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

It's a good looking translite (one in a swap box would be great) but the light show simply doesn't line up IMO. But it's my opinion, so it doesn't matter if you are happy.

I really wish I could have found the original design for the Bally head, and had that remade, but who knows how that would work with the light show. The production translite was done at the total last minute; I've always hated it! Lol

Love your avatar btw!

#1525 2 years ago
Quoted from jorant:

Well holy crap. Even the sound is different?? I'm not sure I like that or not.

You can change it back with a couple presses of a button. I had the hardest time making out what the heck the 7th doctor was saying, and even though I grew up with Tom Baker, my family likes new Who a LOT more. So I decided to work on new sounds with the PinSound board. I really like it better - the sound is *so* much more clear, and I took quotes that weren't too specific, but still make sense in the context of the game (like when you hit a ball into the MPF, the 9th doctor says "see? An invitation. it says right here.. The Doctor - plus One", telling you to add a second ball.)

I added a ton of sounds, but you tend to hear the same ones at the beginning of the game. When the doctor makes it through the 3rd round of Daleks chasing him, instead of "I do not mind the brisk pace or a Dalek or two - it's the obstacles..."
the 10th doctor says "Nah, nothing here. Well! Nothing dangerous. . (pause) You know what, I'll just have a quick scan "

sometimes he will say "Who ya gonna call?" and you hear Rose say "Ghostbusters!", which was in an actual episode. That was my little Pat Lawlor-type pinball callback reference. I just thought it was funny.

I also had my son record some of the Dalek call-outs just for fun, and processed them with the same sound effect the BBC uses now - and by sheer coincidence almost all of them are the same quotes that the topper yells out. I have the game set to 'frequent' on the AM sounds - So if I leave the game on we hear my son (VERY LOUDLY) asking "Where is the Doctor?!"

Not for the purist, but you can just change the translite out and hit a couple buttons and you're back to the original game. There's lots of examples of the original game out there - and they are great! But I wanted to see what we could do without a complete redesign

#1526 2 years ago
Quoted from noahd42:

Thanks. Colors are solid, the left edge is a bit beat up and there is a bit of damage just under the launch button but other than that I am very happy with it. The playfield is very good as well.

Welcome fellow newcomer! Post some pics.
Is the translite from rdoyle1978's game available anywhere? I've only seen the other one.

I scoured the internet for weeks because I didn't like the more common one, but I knew I would prefer a different one than the original. I think I ended up ordering it off of ebay in the UK or something. I will have to check, it was hard to find

EDIT: Ok I guess not that hard to find. here it is on regular old US ebay: ebay.com link » Doctor Who Pinball Alternate Translite

I did have to cut it down a bit in size to fit, so be aware of that; it was a larger dimension than even the glass, and it needed to be cut slightly smaller than the glass to fit

#1530 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I think you're right on that. My Dr Who has the Diamond Plate coating too. I read that they started doing that from the last of the BOP machines on.

Yep that is correct. Not all diamond plate PFs actually say "diamond plate" on them, but they are all cleared.

#1534 2 years ago
Quoted from noahd42:

Got mine cleaned up today and installed the Cliffy on the time expander edge. Looks great.
My mini playfield does sag a bit to the right and I already got a ball stuck on the cliffy. I had a few get stuck before I installed it on the right side so I'll have to level off the machine a bit better and see what happens otherwise that mechanism will be my next project.
My playfield also says diamond plate on it.
Already set the grand champ score on it.

Good luck working on the mini playfield. I say that not because it's impossible, but it is a (one-time) significant time investment. Make sure you find the brilliant guide by Rich Fazio ("Pinballfaz") which has I'm sure hundreds of hours of research into it, and has helped countless DW owners fix the dang thing.

I futzed with it for at least a month before breaking down and completely taking it apart and *cleaning* it, which basically turned out to be the whole problem. The thing has to be dialed in exactly straight in order to not have that sag or the weird sudden drops when it's going up and down.

#1538 2 years ago
Quoted from Kronlar:

I had that break recently. The plastics piece is secured to the metal part of the armature with a roll pin. Seems to break off at the weak spot near the roll pin.
As a temp fix, I was able to gorilla glue the pieces back together. It held for several weeks and finally broke when the new one arrived. I glued it again and kept it as an emergency spare.

I had a similar VUK pin/piston break on my Monster Bash - I was able to use JBWeld to reattach it, and it held for months until I finally just bought a proper replacement. Never broke again though; I still think it would have held indefinitely.

#1543 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Depends if that chameleon circuit is fixed ... but then again...survey says, 'no'.
The game is dated and IMO should be modded in that context. There's plenty of toys/crap you can add to a DW to make it fun using the stories of the first seven doctors. When I see mods of more current episodes/Doctors I can't get into it.
It would be like adding Chris Pine on STTNG.... NOPE!
EDIT: Dated in a "GOOD" way

I've modded my DW in ways that violate what faz is recommending - but really, he's right. You'll NEVER be able to keep the game up with the current doctors. OR at least it would be quite expensive! the alternate translites, while not perfect, at least minimize the 7 original doctors, if that is of concern. I know it's heresy, but I really hate the translite (as I'm sure I've said several times... sorry for being a broken record )

#1548 2 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Thinking about putting new decals on my Dr Who. Anyone know if they make alternative decals for this game anywhere? I am not a big fan of the original decals.

I have looked for quite a while, and never found any. You may want to email retro Refurbs and see if Pete has any sources for art

#1552 2 years ago
Quoted from Boiler415:

Both of the things you've highlighted are issues. The leaf switch can't make consistent contact when bent back like that and the roll pin obviously needs to stay in. You can bend the switch back if you want. However, I'd recommend buying a flipper rebuild kit. They're around $25 on pinball life and contain all the parts that are causing you trouble for both the left and right flippers. If you don't want to do any work yourself you can buy a completely built (including mounting bracket) flipper assembly for $40.

Both kits are worth every penny. Don't forget to buy the plastic collar if you need to replace it too - that does not come in the kit

#1555 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Recently picked up a Doctor Who and really enjoying it so far. Couple questions:
- is the Cliffy protector for the edge difficult to install?
- I noticed the ball often comes off the side ramp when shot by the side flipper. Is there anything you can install to prevent the ball from coming off this ramp? Not sure if there is a mod for the ramp?
Thanks for your assistance.

The cliffy for the MiniPlayfield edge is not too difficult to install - but you MUST make sure it is tight as possible to the wood. There are 2 pieces and both must be very tightly installed so the MPF can raise and lower. It looks great when installed and is a huge upgrade to the stuck-on piece of ramp metal that is the stock piece.

The ramp - you mean the sonic boom ramp? Do you have the clear plastic piece that sits on top of the ramp entrance? If that is missing you may get airballs. You can order a new one with the DW logo etched on it

#1559 2 years ago
Quoted from noahd42:

Nope, just the screws on the side posts and that will release the upper metal portion that goes around the back so you can pull the posts. The Cliffy will slide down just in front and you re-assemble from there.

You may need to readjust how it sits in the hole though - if you install the whole cliffy set, you need the MPF to be pushed as far back as it can be

#1562 2 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeTechNerd:

And just for a minor weekend diversion, a bit of game room wall art.

That is very cool!

1 week later
#1572 2 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeTechNerd:

And just for a minor weekend diversion, a bit of game room wall art.

Thank you. It is a DIY. You can do quite a bit with a mat cutter, some foam core, an X-acto knife, and a stack of garage sale picture frames to pull from.

Where did you get all the Doctor faces from?

#1578 2 years ago
Quoted from Minneapolispin:

As a new Doctor Who owner, I’m curious to watch episodes of the show somewhere, so I can understand the characters and call outs in the game. I vaguely recall the PBS version of the early 80’s when I was a kid, but never watched it. Is that the one the pinball is themed after? Any idea where I could watch old episodes that correlate to the theme of the game? The backglass shows seven guys -are they Doctor Who? Are they different actors or do they represent different points in time? I understand there is a new version of the show out there, but I’d like to watch and understand the show 1992 or earlier, so it’s in line with the time frame of the pinball.
Thanks in advance for the help. I'm loving the game so far this first week of owning it. I have new rubber and LED bulbs on order and hope I can begin the shop job this weekend. I'll post pictures once complete.

The game is a bastard with the short flippers and giant outlanes. But it's hard on medium/hard, and it's incredibly easy on easy mode.

All 7 faces represent the doctors at the time the game was made. When they changed actors, the doctor would die and "regenerate" into the new actor. There have now been 13 (about to be 14 this Christmas). They are all the same person though, even though they allow each actor to play the character with their own style.

The game story is in th manual (look it up on ipdb if you don't have a printed one), and it's something like that all the bad guys over the years have gotten together to create a "Time Expander" which will allow them to take over time and the universe. The master, the dalek a, Davros (created the daleks). I think there's a Cyberman too.

Anyway this has created a time vortex so all the doctors are available at the same
Time, which is why they are all selectable and playable

The scoring slightly changes with which doctor you select, although what the DMD describes is totally unhelpful. The manual describes it better

Glad you joined the club! One of my favorites and an under-valued pin IMO.

#1580 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Hey guys -
I'm not a Time Lord (sorry..) But I did spend this weekend tearing apart and rebuilding an acquaintance's Doctor Who, and I noticed something I wanted to get info on..
The area under the ramp entrances, behind the Tardis, there are some unused dimples, and artwork in the plastics that show that something was changed around that area. Maybe different ramp configuration?
Some pics -

There's a unused dimple right next to the lamp hole, and another one in the semi-circle that's actually cut from the plastic. The semi-circle missing indicates a post or standoff would have been planned to go there.

Another show of the unused dimple and plastic form, and artwork on the smaller plastic shows the area where a cutout *would be*, and while it's not visible, there IS a dimple under that filled-in semi-circle there.

Unused ramp-entrance dimples, likely for the usual wood screws to hold down the ramp's entrance.
Was wondering if anyone knew the story (or part of the story) behind these?

Great detective work! There is a website chronicling the evolutions this game went through - Larry Pfutz's site if I recall correctly. It unfortunately does not detail what playfield changes were made through the process. I would love to know more - I know this game was changed from a Bally to a Williams backbox very late in the game, forcing the art to be redone. But no details on the PF are detailed...

#1582 2 years ago
Quoted from Minneapolispin:

Before and after of the only I picked up last week.

I really like the blue under the ramps! Is that just blue in the GI? this game needs more blue, it lookslike a McDonald's without it..

#1584 2 years ago
Quoted from Minneapolispin:

Thank you. I think it looks nice too. I used blue under the right ramp, but ran out. So I used the Comet 'Purple Passion" bulbs on the left side. They make the colors pop, like a black light will.

How cool. I was just talking with somebody about a black light mod for a Creature - but we were talking for the outside cab decals. This game can look VERY cool with some adjustments to the lighting. I know it's not a purist's stance, but the game looks way dated just using regular colors. I changed my pop colors in the upper right PF and that made a huge difference. I am considering adding the LightedPinballMods plasma bumpers for some added kick... it goes well with the scifi theme -

#1589 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

That's how they were made at the factory, not sure what is confusing about it.

Chop and sand!

1 week later
#1597 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

I expect a photo of that PLAYING DW!
Make it happen

LOL I would hang a photo of that on my wall

1 week later
#1601 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Are these still available anywhere? Thanks.

I ordered mine from there not too long ago. Just email them, you can probsvly still get one

#1602 2 years ago

Quick update - my game has the PinSound board installed. When I got back home from a long trip I fired up the game and all of a sudden it's resetting! I have not replaced the caps on the power driver board, but The game worked fine 2 weeks ago.

I rewired one of the power wires that feed the miniplayfield, thinking that might be it. Nope.
Tried a couple other things, then disconnected the PinSound. No resets. So I'm now at the threshold where that board is drawing just barely too much power with my other mods (I have colordmd LED in there too). I tried turning down the sound on the PinSound board, and reducing the bass output. Then I raised the volume on the coin door back to (roughly) where the volume was.

Works perfectly now.

#1604 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

I would go through the reset section for wpc games on pinwiki.

I need to replace the caps - had to order some from PBL. But the point I was trying to make was that somehow something failed -just- enough in that 2 week period that suddenly the exact same settings didn't work any more. And solved it (albeit temporarily) by turning down the volume

#1606 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Thanks, waiting to hear back from them. Hoping it helps with the balls flying off the top ramp. Probably happens 90% of the time.

I remember finding a regular version of that cover without the etching for sale somewhere else... Marco maybe? The original game didn't have the logo on that plastix

#1608 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Just because it's working with the volume down does not mean that this is a voltage issue. It may be vibration.
Before you pull the caps.... pull the board and inspect the solder joints of the caps. Look for any cold solder joints. Those caps are huge and sitting 90 degrees to the board puts a lot of tension on them. So, gravity may be helping contact during a normal operation...until it starts bouncing around.
As dsuperbee said... follow the mantra of PinWiki reset. IF you get to the point of replacing the caps, try simply reflowing the solder first.
If you pull out the caps, you're more than likely going to pull the through-hole-plates as well. Then, you need to add a stitch and even more work.
Best of luck,

WIll do. Thanks for the advice - I am also now getting the "no CCW Movement" error, which I do not understand why that's suddenly happening.

#1610 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

I have $1 on the table saying that it's the 25 year old connectors to the MPF.
Check the connector to the motor and the optos.
Look at the solder joints on the optos too.

Funny how they would just 'go bad' after sitting for 2 weeks. I have not taken anything apart since we got the MPF tuned up perfectly.
I'll do a deeper dive in the morning.

#1614 2 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

Yes and unfortunately yes.
You can raise the mini pf in test mode, and then individually test the switches to see which ones register/dont. It can't hurt to double check the connection as well.

This has happened to me before - check the big molex connector that goes to the Optos that read the mushroom targets. Re-seat it a couple of times. Then you'll have to try the flashlight test. You may find the opto emitter(s) have burned out. But hopefully not!

#1618 2 years ago
Quoted from timelord_warner:

Just curious, do you have original or reproduction ramps? I recently installed the thicker reproduction ramps and had a heck of a time fitting them together with the plain reproduction ramp covers. They eventually fit together, but it was much more cramped than with the original ramps and covers. I want the stenciled versions but am nervous they will be even more difficult to fit together.

Mine are original, but I don't know if the hardware is. I seem to remember having to try a couple of things to get it all to fit. I can't remember exqcrly but I did fill in the holes with plastic filler and re-drill to make them more stable

#1619 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Funny how they would just 'go bad' after sitting for 2 weeks. I have not taken anything apart since we got the MPF tuned up perfectly.
I'll do a deeper dive in the morning.

Update. Pretty sure it's the alignment of the brackets. You have got to be kidding me...

2 weeks later
#1626 2 years ago

Quick update: figured out ALL of my issues were related to the flasher not being plugged in. Wtf! The plug had somehow gotten pulled out and was causing a lot of weird power issues

#1628 2 years ago
Quoted from Backyardace:

I found this Tardis Wall Light at FYE. ThinkGeek also sells it. Mounts to the wall with two screws and is battery powered. Top light blinks and it is lit inside.

Very cool! I like the way it lights the windows as well

#1629 2 years ago

Just added a mod I've been working on for a while:

#1631 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

NICE! Love K9!
How'd you tie it in?

I really didn't like having two of the Whomobiles on the playfield, since that thing was really only used during one season for the 3rd doctor, so I started thinking. I pulled out the guts from the K-9 toy and hollowed it out enough to sit over the switch and replace the ugly Whomobile.

Then I was just going to put a small LED in there and tie it to an insert or something, but the only thing that lights up when you hit that ramp is a flasher - the left and right red dots to either side of the MPF. So... I stuck a (way too big, honestly) flasher in there and blocked some of the light so it's not *quite* as bright. When the right hand circle flashes, so does K-9. If I have time, I may open him back up and put a smaller LED in there, but I didn't have the right resistor at the time, so I just disassembled a 4-led flasher.

Since I have a PinSound, I found the sound effect that plays when you hit the Sonic Boom ramp, and just replaced that with a sample of K-9's voice. I want to find some other samples of him talking, but "affirmative master" was the most obvious choice. I still have some tweaking to do, but it works really well.

the Sonic Screwdriver is just tied into the light under the right sling. And I ended up replacing the light under the new Tardis with a coin door socket and a #47. For some reason, it pulses (ghosting?) which ends up looking really cool in that toy.

#1633 2 years ago
Quoted from mima:

I really like this idea, where could I find that toy?

I think I found it on Amazon; i don't recall it being terribly hard to find -

here you go:
amazon.com link »

1 week later
#1636 2 years ago

Man I need to upload my draft version of the pinballshark Modern mix, love it!

#1640 2 years ago

Great buy! $1500 is a steal

#1641 2 years ago

Ok folks, quick question- not really specific to DW but here goes. I noticed the other day that i have the Doctor (1) insert, as well as the left drain "extra ball" and a couple of the 5x3 inserts are ghosting. But the Doctor (1) stays on ALL the time basically- and the left drain pretty much as well.

I have the LEDOCD installed, which I thought would help - but so far no. These lights are not all in the same row / column of the lamp
Matrix., and I don't believe it is a transistor issue.

I realize this is a complex question but I've checked everything I know to check. LEDOCD is supposed to handle ghosting issues, and I know it is working, but definitely
Something seems off. Any ideas?

#1643 2 years ago
Quoted from mima:

Any chance either of you sitting on a spare original translite?

Original Bally or original Williams?

#1645 2 years ago
Quoted from mima:

Either I assume. I didn't even know that there where two different "originals". where can I see a picture of both?

I wasn't trying to be coy - but the game was designed with a Bally style backbox first, then quickly retrofit with a Williams box right before manufacturing - you are looking for the shipped translite then. I have one but I want to keep it in case I ever need to sell, sorry!

Is your game missing one?

#1647 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballshark:

Here's a question for all DW owners.
When the game is over and I get a high score and input my initials, the game immediately starts another game. Do they all do that?
How do I turn this behavior off?

Are you sure you're not just hitting the start button twice on that last letter? Maybe the switch is a little too sensitive?

#1648 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I wasn't trying to be coy - but the game was designed with a Bally style backbox first, then quickly retrofit with a Williams box right before manufacturing - you are looking for the shipped translite then. I have one but I want to keep it in case I ever need to sell, sorry!
Is your game missing one?

Here's the original translite:

#1654 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Mine doesn't do that.

Neither does mine. Maybe it's a different ROM?

#1658 2 years ago
Quoted from Bumper:

Does anyone have a clear picture of the time expander with the cover removed and a picture of the underside of the cover?
I am restoring a Dr Who which had many original parts missing like the time expander cover and the lights under it. I am trying to rebuild it as original as possible but the schematics in the manual is not really clear, so a picture would really help me.
For just getting the time-expander light up again like original I got this whole shopping list:
03-8662-9 Red starburst plastic mini-dome lamp cover
03-8666 Time expander cover (Thanks Freeplay40!!!)
31-1688 Time expander decal
A-12336-1 Socket & Bulb Assembly
H-15594 Lamp Cable (I cannot find that cable anywhere, does anybody know the part number of the connector?)
07-6688-19N Rivet, 1/8 x 7/32
07-6688-18N Rivet, 1/8 x 3/16
A-16041 Bulb & Light Socket Assembly
5070-09054-00 Diode 1N4004
03-8063-6 Sleeve

Bumper, by "the cover" do you mean the plastic piece which sits on the very top (with the big decal) ? If you need a new one, there was a thread around here where new, thicker ones were made

#1663 2 years ago
Quoted from bpull:

anybody ever have their machine reset during multiball only? seems weird to me that it only happens during multiball.

Probably because the mini playfield fires up then, and you have a lot more coils going at the same time. I used to have that problem, had to replace my voltage regulator on the power driver board. The drop in no-heat replacement is amazing! Changed the game

#1665 2 years ago
Quoted from bpull:

thanks for the tips guys, once I get a chance to look and diagnose, I'll report back.

You can try a Rob Kahr board to fix it, may or may not work depending on your issue with your board. Eventually my voltage reg went so bad it could not keep the 5v steady

#1667 2 years ago

Outstanding work!

1 week later
#1671 1 year ago
Quoted from DngrWillRobinson:

I just bought a DW from the for sale page here, can’t wait for it to get here. I’ll post pictures once it arrives. Oh, and by the way, Tom Baker.

That's the Doctor I grew up with! I have this vivid memory of the Doctor and 2 companions walking around in what I remember as a warehouse or possibly a battleship, with multi-level control panels (or at least a couple of stairs up!) The other day I am pretty sure I saw it the episode in question, but I missed the title! Sarah Jane Smith was in it (the one I saw recently), and she gets trapped in a room and faints or is knocked out or something. I will track it down eventually!

congratulations on joining the club!

#1673 1 year ago
Quoted from DngrWillRobinson:

And if there was any question who was the best Doctor...
» YouTube video

Looking forward to the next season and the Christmas episode!

1 month later
#1684 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Hi all. Whats a price check on original topper dome and dalek (non moving). Thankyou.

I believe one was Listed for $300 or so recently, but I am not sure it sold. If it’s non-moving it really diminishes the value

#1688 1 year ago
Quoted from Benobutton:

Wow I've been looking for one for years and one sold "recently" damn damnedy damn

It was on here for weeks - seller was in Germany I think?

4 months later
#1822 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Has anyone installed the Brite Caps on their Dr. Who? If so, was wondering what you did with the bumper that is covered with a plastic piece. Thanks.

Take off the plastic, take off the cap, install the brite cap, reinstall the plastic. Nothing keeps it from working fine

I also use these things called “glue dots” to install the brite caps, instead of super glue. They are very sticky tiny globs of glue that adhere as well as hot glue and do not move, even with the action of the pops, and you can remove them without damaging or discoloring the light or the pop caps

#1835 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Thanks, did you only install two?

You can install on all 3, see my post above

#1841 1 year ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Thanks Faz, shame there isn't an easier solution. I dislike doing permanent irreversible modifications to a game. Too bad someone doesn't make these light boards ready made and we can just keep the originals safe.

The reversible solution is to buy the ColorDMD LED board; this fits perfectly in the space of the original DMD and the light board stays in place

#1844 1 year ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

That looks like a simpler option, I will try it out.

Just know if you do that, the translate becomes difficult to install; takes a lot of wiggling

1 week later
#1863 1 year ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

Officially left the club yesterday
Its ok though, i sold the Dr to my buddy. Him and his little one’s first machine!

DAYUM that’s a nice one! Gotta get mine back..

#1869 1 year ago