(Topic ID: 76377)

Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!

By HoakyPoaky

5 years ago

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  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by pinballinreno
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#2266 6 months ago

Just joined the Club!

My game will be here in 10 days, Im so excited!

Now, for improvements: do I get the colorDMD in LCD or LED.....

Does anyone sell a doctors led strip for the colorDMD mod (Like the IJ and TAF ones...) or do I have to actually do some work and modify the existing, ugh... ! lol

I need to re-decal the cabinet touch up a bit, cliffy's etc.

Now, about alternative translites? What seems the best?

#2272 6 months ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

I did not even know there was a colorDMD LED. I have the LCD version and it's AWESOME! Really adds a lot to the game. Do the strip yourself... it's easy. The hardest thing to do is finding some fine wire. I cut up a CAT5 cable... worked great.

I have a box of cat5 lol
What color/source for the LED's if I go that route.

The LED version of the colorDMD is smaller and fits better with the existing light bar I guess?

My only question is:

does the LED version look too bright. The game already has some sort of LED upgrade on it. I bought it sight unseen, so I imagine a bit of work to do on this.

The LCD version has high res? I have the LCD version on my ToM and I really like it.
People say the LED is much brighter. But is it too bright? Id have to see them side by side I guess.
does the LED version not have the high res?

I know. so many questions... lol.

#2273 6 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Get the LED one. Direct install, it still looks great, very bright. No need to fool with the doctor lights at all

Yay! Ok that answers that, other than the reliablilty of LEDs. But I can tackle that later if I have the energy...

#2276 6 months ago

So It looks like people prefer the colorDMD LCD for the most part:


Still though you cant beat the clean installation of the LED version, and its cheaper.

Im still on the fence but oddly swaying towards the LED version due to absolute laziness... lol

#2281 6 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

This is what the LED looks like installed (make sure it’s HD when you play)

I really like the bright colors, I'm sold!

Now where do I get that translite.

I know there are several out there but I really liked the interaction with the lights.

#2283 6 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Took me a while to find; I didn’t like the other alternatives - I believe I found it on EBay UK.. ill see if I can find a link

I've seen a few of them now and nothing made me buy it now lol.

But I really like the one you had.

Way cool.

#2286 6 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

that's it! the first one. By the way, it came and was slightly too large for the translite glass - you will need to cut it. Make sure you measure several times off of the original translite - I cut mine a bit too small and had a hard time fixing it to the glass with the little translite clips; had to get it just right. be careful! The material isnt' as thick as a real translite, but the colors are good, and you can't tell once installed.

Did you have the interactive lighting kit installed?

#2289 6 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Painting Dr. Who coin door and other pieces in Oxford blue. Turned out better than I hoped. Will look better than standard black coin door, in my opinion.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Are you doing blue armor and legs too?

#2293 6 months ago
Quoted from ArcadeTechNerd:

Well... I suppose it depends in part on if you really want some of the optional video modes that the LCD version offers.
When I was trying to make up my mind on the LED/LCD issue I was struggling until I got to see a couple of machines next to each other, one with LED one with LCD. Decision made! The LED unit just "felt" right. Something about the physical pixel appearance vs. the LCD drawing them in. And I suppose it could be more than a little dependent on the particular machine. Doctor Who has more of a "classic" vibe to it, so going with a more "classic" if colorized display just made sense to me.
The size issues are obviously a consideration with the LCD version on things liek Doctor Who, Addams Family, etc... But I leave that one up to you and what you are comfortable with doing to your machine. I always try to err on the side of completely and (reasonably) simple rollbacks if/when the need arises.
I've had the ColorDMD LED unit in my Doctor Who for a couple of years now and have never questioned the choice.
YMMV! (obviously)

I agree with you on this.

Doctor Who is sort of a retro, rough and tumble, kinda game.

Smoothing the display may not fit the feel of it.

I put the LCD version on my ToM and and am using the smooth font. It matches the game IMHO...

I heavily swayed towards the LED for this title.

Its bright. I has dots. It looks great. Its way easier to install.

Pretty much sold on it.

Now...What Alt translite to get.
Again Im swayed towards the one Rdoyle used. It looks really perfect and totally modernizes the game

Pretty inexpensive on Ebay right now.

1 week later
#2306 5 months ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Finally took the time to service my Who and set up the Leds, blades, new rubbers and some stuff I made for it.
Quite happy with the overall look.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That playfield looks great!

#2312 5 months ago

I really like the side blades on these games.

It really modernizes them a lot with the colorDMD and alt translite.

Does anyone make a back board decal to go with the blades?

Seems unfinished without it.

#2314 5 months ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Not that I know of.
Thought about the color DMD but decided against it, too expensive for a small improvement on Dr Who imo.
Alt translite will come when my brother visits from NYC; seller would only ship within the US.

I ordered the LED colorDMD.

It seemed to me, to match the game better after LED's were put in the playfield.

But it does seem odd that no one has offered a back board decal.

1 week later
#2325 5 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

To anybody with a old left ramp, would you part with the old decals.

Just joined the club!

Game is kinda rough but has a pretty good playfield.

Issue #1 no power to upper left flipper. Fuse is good, 74v to both sides of f901 and it ohms out, looks new.

No 74v on any leg of the coil lugs.

No power at j902 pins 1 or 3.
The other pairs in j902 have 74v

#2326 5 months ago

My cabinet flipper opto boards only have one opto.

The manual list it as a 2 opto flipper board but it's not. I dont even think it's necessary to use dual opto flipper boards in this game.

#2327 5 months ago

Issue #2

Time expander barely works.

Lots of Opto errors in test and it raises but has trouble lowering.

Time to completely rebuild ! Lol

#2328 5 months ago

Issue #3

Slings don't work at all.

Might be related to upper flipper?

#2329 5 months ago

Other than those 3 issues, the game is complete!

I'm really looking forward to getting it up and running.

#2331 5 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

How weird.
Mine had the flipper optos totally removed and replaced with leaf switches!
It works fine so I haven’t messed with it tho.

You can do this, I think operators pulled them out due to lack of parts and direct wired them lol.

In my case it might be an early version or it was retrofitted to an earlier version for lack of parts.

It all works the same IMHO...

#2332 5 months ago

Slings fixed!

1/4" gap on the leaf switches lol

They look pretty nasty so I'm ordering replacements.

#2334 5 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Cheap OP fix for routed games. My re import had leaf switches, I took them back to optos.

Your whomobile decals look great !
How can I get one or 2?

also does anyone have the decal sets for doctor who any more?
There used to be a 31 piece set.
Has anyone reproduced these?
My decals look curly and sad.

Im shopping out this game after the repairs and might do a total resto on it if I can get the supplies and parts.

#2335 5 months ago

I think Im just going to shotgun the fliptronics 2...

If the tip 36 is bad it specifically interferes with the ground unless its shorted on.
This would give me no voltage at the flipper coil and no voltage at the connector but 74v at the fuse.

I do have 74v at the fuse.

The coils definitely have seen better days. Probably locked on and burnt the tip 36 after the diode failed...

Replacing a tip36 and the tip102 near it is easy enough.
I might even have a coil with new diodes,

Any other ideas?

Ill work on it some more on monday.

#2337 5 months ago

I'm looking for that 31 piece decal sheet that is out of stock for years...

If you have one, I can have it copied in vinyl.

PM me

#2338 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think Im just going to shotgun the fliptronics 2...
If the tip 36 is bad it specifically interferes with the ground unless its shorted on.
This would give me no voltage at the flipper coil and no voltage at the connector but 74v at the fuse.
I do have 74v at the fuse.
The coils definitely have seen better days. Probably locked on and burnt the tip 36 after the diode failed...
Replacing a tip36 and the tip102 near it is easy enough.
I might even have a coil with new diodes,
Any other ideas?
Ill work on it some more on monday.

Upper flipper fixed!

Seems that a bit of creative wiring was done. It's all back to factory now.

Found a pinched and cut wire for the flipper switch under the CPU board...

Replaced q1 tip36, q6 tip102, q5 tip102.

Reflowed fuse holders.
Reflowed pins on fliptronic board.

Reseated all the IDC connectors but I think I'll just replace them later during the restore process.

So upper flipper lives ! Lol.

It had the wrong coil but I cant complain too much right now.

#2339 5 months ago


My time expander it really a piece of crap.

Tomorrow I'm pulling it out and rebuilding it using Faz's guide.

Wish me luck lol.

If you have any pointers let me know!

#2340 5 months ago

Thank you to the pinsiders who contributed to my decal search.

Good things are coming!

#2341 5 months ago

Doctor who plastic set ?

Does anyone have a set they might sell me?

PM me please.

1 week later
#2357 5 months ago
Quoted from opt_prime:

I did loosen those 4 screws and made an attempt to install it without removing the entire MPF. I did review your excellent guide but still felt intimidated by the process. I looked at the Cliffy guidance and it said to just loosen those 4 screws, so I was HOPING that would work.

You have 2 choices.

Sand the front edge of the MPF about 1/20"


Move the entire time expander back a little to increase the gap.

The mounts might have to have the holes slightly elongated.

Removal is pretty easy.

#2359 5 months ago
Quoted from opt_prime:

Pardon my ignorance, but aren't those the solutions for situations where the assembly is rubbing up against each other when it goes up and down? I think if I sanded the front edge, the gap between the Edge Protector and the MPF would be even worse, I suspect. I hope I'm conveying the problem correctly.

Adjusting the mounting holes in the bracket will give you some flexibility on reinstallation to make it perfect.

Washers installed to adjust the height etc.

#2361 5 months ago

I'm replacing my time expander mini playfield.

Should I add the mylar to it like the factory?

I'm inclined to believe that since it's a very busy area that it may be necessary.

Has anyone else added it to theirs?

Does anyone gave a pre-cut piece?

#2368 4 months ago

I'm about to reassemble my MPF.

I'm cutting a new mylar for the new MPF blank from CPR, I'm cutting off 1/8" off the front as required.

I'm using 3mil mylar same as factory.

What LEDs work the best for this? Frosted, flat top, colors etc...

Also what about led flashers, are they just too bright?

I'm going to install a full led kit in my game.

One thing, if you dont have a sonic cleaner...get one.

OMG, I mean the parts come out like brand new with no polishing.

I'm saving the polishing for the upper playfield parts.

#2372 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Depends what you are going for. I found the color LEDs didn’t matter much since they are mostly behind all that plastic. Frosted is better IMO
Get one of the 5SMD Comet tower flashers, they actually give off a bit less light and fill the whole red dome with light, instead of a very intense hotspot. The regular LED flashers are a bit bright
Make sure you compare the MPF holes to the old one - a lot of the reproduction ones out there are not exact

I watched the video of the french guy dealing with the CPR MPF.

I think I have the same one. I can make it work. Mine is so worn that the front corners have very little wood left.

My MPF is missing a variety of parts on the top but I think I have it all resolved.

My expander cover was taped in place due to missing/stripped out posts etc.

But the whole assembly didnt work anyway so I guess it didn't matrer!

William's was no help in the manual with their huge list of parts not shown lol.

Basically my game is very rough but the playfied is pretty good and the back box boards are untouched.

#2374 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

did you get one of the upgraded expander covers? Totally worth the purchase. I'd love to get that decal redesigned too. the thing is so ugly! haha

I'm working on the shield and whomobile decals.

My shield is pretty bent up but I think I can straighten it.

I bought the new time expander cover and decals for it.

My goal right now is to get the game functioning and then rip it apart for a complete restoration.

The MPF is more than half the work as always...

#2376 4 months ago

How is this wire routed properly?
Looks terrible on my game lol
Is this the right switch location?
Or even the right switch?
My game is a little rough, many missing or re-imagined parts.

Post a pic of how it's supposed to be done please.
20190521_104807 (resized).jpg

#2378 4 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

My game isn’t accessible right now but... it’s supposed to go up the plastic wire tube and into the backbox, but it’s really tight when you fold down the head. There is a plug but it’s a pain to get to. My switch is already disabled, I might just relocate it .

I'll probably make a nice cable out of shrink and hook it somewhere.

I do like the disabling of the switch idea a lot, lol.

I might just tie the wires together and stuff it behind the backboard for now!

#2380 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

That is the playfield glass switch and goes into the lower cabinet. There are a few holes under the left plastic that it can be re routed.[quoted image]

I see that it can be a problem when raising and lowering the playfield if there isn't enough slack.


#2384 4 months ago

2 of 4 sections done on my time expander

New motor and gearbox.

My gearbox was totally stripped out and had been repaired many times from the look of it.

New bracket from marco.
It was a bit rough and bent.

Bending, filing, sanding and 3 hours of rework made it work.
20190524_194915 (resized).jpg

I bought new rollers from marco. They were very rusty, but the proper thickness. I'm not sure they were worth the money lol.

2 hours of sonic cleaning and scrubbing fixed them.
These are new out of the bag.
20190524_103353 (resized).jpg
The old ones looked better but are worn out.

I cant recommend replacing these parts unless you have a workshop with a big sonic cleaner, vice, sander, grinder etc...

But my bracket had 1/16" grooves cut on both sides and the rollers were very thin from abuse, so unfortunately they had to be replaced.

There was so much slop it couldn't help but go sideways and bind up.

Runs smooth and perfect now.

My workstation has a 0-15v DC outlet on it. Very handy for testing motors and leds on the fly. I highly recommend it.

20190524_201050 (resized).jpg

I added nylon washers to the opto emitter board. The optos were hitting the switch interupters.

I need to cut a shroud for my optos.
Does anyone have a template?
It's not critical, I can cut one out of heavy paper.

Can I plug the opto box into the game and test it?

I'll see if it works.

#2385 4 months ago

Next I have to rework the new mini playfield and take the ball dents out of the lower scoop assembly.

The mini posts on the lower scoop are almost worn in half lol.

I had to find the part number for them off the IPDB parts list (BOM), fortunately marco had them.

My game has seen a lot of action and silly operator hacks, but the playfied is really nice!

#2387 4 months ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

That cable does NOT go through the pf. It should just go straight back.


#2388 4 months ago

can someone post a picture of how the whomibile, switch, clear plastic is assembled on the right side above the wireform?

I have the ramp but the switch seems too high as its installed wrong. It has to be bent down a lot for the ball to hit it.

I ordered the plastic and new ramps from marco and a whomobile from swinks.

Im just am not clear on how the corner is assembled.

Im working on decals.

#2392 4 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

I noticed a guest purchased some whomobiles recently - just hope you got the mod ones as I have various types there. If so contact Shapeways to see if you can halt the order and swap with the correct ones????
As for the switch under the whomobile you might get some ideas from my mod manual.[quoted image]

Yes that was me!
I couldn't remember my password or login for the site, it had been awhile. Lol

I bought the regular ones.

I was just looking for one to replace my missing one on the right for the "factory" look. No one seems to have them any more.

I think the nylon can be dyed black with Rit dye. I have had good results on nylon in the past. We'll see.

Same with the mushroom buttons, thanks for offering them.
I think I can dye them gray:
amazon.com link »

however really like the new whomobile you designed.
I can change them out later if I want to paint them up.

#2401 4 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Or one of those grey rubber caps.

Speaking of which, need to order them....

What is the part number for them...

got it from the IPDB parts list:

1385 ...4 20-9672 switch protect cover 1
1386 ...4 01-10636 clip-switch cover 1

marco has them, ordered!

#2402 4 months ago

Lower level cleaned and repaired

IMG_20190531_195746_01 (resized).jpg
#2409 4 months ago

I guess pinside wants 6 duplicate posts?


#2410 4 months ago

Mini playfield shortened 2mm.
Mylar applied.

I bought some of the 5" wide 3mil from marco. It's really perfect. Exactly like the factory mylar.
No one else has it right now

I made a paper template from my original, then cut a plywood template out of 1/8" hobby plywood.

Cut it on a self repairing mat.

New exacto blades are a must but there are still problems.

I'm going to get a burning tool and a piece of glass for future mylars.

IMG_20190531_194017_01 (resized).jpgIMG_20190531_194017_02 (resized).jpg

#2411 4 months ago

I cannot praise rapid-tac enough.
It really is the best!

No soapy residue under the mylar.

No windex killing the glue.

20 mins or more work time.

Its amazing stuff.

I'll use it for everything from now on.

It actually makes the work stick better and makes mylar clear. Like a factory application.

#2412 4 months ago

Next I have to drill out the missing holes and install the missing t-nuts.

#2414 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I would have elongated the bracket holes before I cut the MPF, especially if it was the original MPF.

It's a CPR silver repro.

They are oddly a little long on the front edge.

I wanted to have the holes better line up without reworking more stuff.

It's only like a 1 8mm difference.

It's a quick and easy adjustment on my sander.

I literally took less than a minute.

Plus I wanted to true up the edge a little for the cliffy install later on.

They take up 1mm.

I might still have to rework the bracket for this.

We'll see in a couple days.

The mylar installation took me 1 hour. Lol

#2417 4 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Looks good dude!
I need to pull my Time Expander out soon and give it a little tune up.


The repro mini playfields dont come with mylar.

I think in this case it's very necessary.
Lots of bouncing, ball ejects and traffic there.

I have never seen the time expander work lol.

It was missing quite a few parts and basically taped together and disabled with a stripped gearbox.

I'm getting close to final assembly !

Maybe it will rise and work the first try?

Next we will see if the wiring in the cabinet has been hacked up lol.

#2419 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Mine was a hack job too. I repinned so many connectors and bought many new parts,so I feel the pain

The biggest annoyance is finding unnecessarily broken parts, or wrong parts utilized in badly done hacks, deep in the machine.

This results on daily marco orders that waste tons of time waiting for deliveries lol.

A 2 day job takes a month.

#2421 4 months ago
Quoted from Toads:

Are you installing a cliffy on that front edge?


#2422 4 months ago

Didnt have a fancy t-nut setting tool set up.

Put a leg bolt in my drill press and used the press function of it.

Worked surprisingly well.

20190601_182518 (resized).jpg20190601_182451 (resized).jpg
#2424 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Buy an Arbor Press, works better

I have one, this was just at hand since I'm drilling the missing holes in it.

I have also installed ramp rivets on big items that dont fit in the little arbor press with my drill press using the Hanson hand rivet tool and a lower die made out of a ground out leg bolt.

I can get 500 psi on the drill press without pulling too hard.

Its handy for pushing out roll pins and such. I just chuck up a drift etc. Dont even need a drill vice for most things.

I often chuck up router and dremel bits to do freehand edgework.

It makes a great inverted router table in a pinch.

A drill press can be much more than just a drill motor.

I used to be a machinist, so finding how to use tools to their full capacity is how it's done lol

#2426 4 months ago

Finally finished the time expander.

Quite a job with the repro mini playfield and new internal bracket assembly as well as rusted rollers

Only 19 holes were left undrilled from CPR.
Probably for the best as really you want to hand fit the parts on reassembly.

20190604_180936 (resized).jpg
20190604_180531 (resized).jpg20190604_180522 (resized).jpg

All parts polished and corrosion controlled

#2427 4 months ago

I installed the flex dual leds in the flashing lock inserts.

Tested them and they look really good compared to a 2smd in the same place.

New bulb sockets, coil plungers and opto's throughout.

New standup target and decal.

Mostly all new screws and hardware as well as new bumper posts.
20190604_180441 (resized).jpg20190604_180445 (resized).jpg

New 2smd sunlight bulbs for the 3 GI bulbs.

#2428 4 months ago

I ran it outside the game at 10 volts and it runs smoothly without hesitation.

Now I can go back to shopping out the game and repairing the many broken an missing parts.

I think it will only take a day or 2.

Then maybe play a game!

#2429 4 months ago

After the game is repaired and complete, I'll pull it apart for the playfield clearing and cabinet restoration.

#2430 4 months ago

I have pinsound, flipper fidelity speakers etc...

Is a polk 10" sub worth it on this game?

#2434 4 months ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Since the pinsound was mentioned are you using the original pinsound or the pinsound+ ?
With the pinsound installed can you keep the original soundtrack for Dr Who in addition to the new mixes? How to switch between?

Pinsound÷ full kit etc.
I haven't installed it yet, I'm still building the game.

Hopefully I'll get it shopped out more this week and see what other mysterious hacks were done.

I just found its missing all the white spool spacers around the time expander. Fortunately I have a few.

I also have to peel off all of the time expander shield decals without tearing them for reference.

#2435 4 months ago

I'm thinking if remaking the speaker panel with the last 7 doctors on it instead of the 1st 7.

Also replacing the call outs etc to match.

Has anyone already done this?

#2438 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I've done the callouts. I tried to recreate a newer story involving the Master and the Daleks/Davros. Callouts still seem relevant to the game, but it sounds SOOOO much better.
Have not done the plastic; that's a great idea!

This is good news! Did you share it on the pinsound site?

I'd like to hear it.

#2439 4 months ago

Are there supposed to be spacers under the clear plastic line the other ramp?

20190607_163304 (resized).jpg
#2440 4 months ago

The switch actuator looks like it has to reach a long way and has a very steep bend in it

20190607_163146 (resized).jpg20190607_163158 (resized).jpg
#2442 4 months ago

It also loose and held on with stripped out sheet metal screws. Lol

I imagine the switch is supposed to be mounted with screws, washers and keps nuts like all other bally stuff.

I'll fix that but the extreme reach of the actuator looks off to me.

#2443 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

No, It is 2 #6-32 machine screws and nuts. Then the whomobile goes over it and screwed in.


How does the switch look?

#2445 4 months ago

So the whomobile uses the front most screw holes and just rides the other screw heads.

The whomobile does not completely encase or cover the screw heads, just the switch and switch mount?

#2446 4 months ago

Good. Just looks odd to me lol

#2447 4 months ago

It the whomobile held on with sheet metal screws also?

Or more machine screws and nuts?

#2448 4 months ago

I bought the ramp set off marco.
The big left ramp did not include the opto bracket, so I'll have to clean it and move it over.

The subway ramp came bare.
Tons of riveting there.

They do sell a populated one, but I font think I need it.

My existing is in really good shape. I'll just replace the switches and reuse it.

#2451 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Panhead screws

In the photo it looks like #6 or #8 pan head sheet metal screws hold on the whomobile on.


#2455 4 months ago

I have an issue with the playfield scraping/gouging the sidewall.

Is this gate installed correctly?

20190608_100755 (resized).jpg20190608_100849 (resized).jpg20190608_100911 (resized).jpg
#2456 4 months ago

The playfield fits pretty tight.
Probably about 1/16" clearance on each side

#2458 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

a LOT of them have that same gouge. Only thing you can really do is re-mount or shave down that gate. Maybe some felt?

I think I can bend it in and move it in 1/8" more, but it's a deadly danger. Just like on my houdini.

Just have to use blade protectors after the cab is redone.

#2462 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Don't bend it. Lift the playfield up and loosen the screws and move it inward. problem solved.

Yeah. I'll elongate the holes.

It's in the tumbler now for 2 days...

#2463 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Try bending it slightly in. I think it’s the wire that causes the damage.
My DW is in Ohio right now. Man, wth, do we have the same exact collection? Lol

It's definitely the wire hanging out the side.

#2464 4 months ago

Stripped the topside of the playfield tonight.

I wish I could get plastics...

Most of them are ok, but new repros would be awesome.

#2465 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

a LOT of them have that same gouge. Only thing you can really do is re-mount or shave down that gate. Maybe some felt?

Maybe leave the gouge in place and decorate around it!

#2468 4 months ago
Quoted from rgb635:

Not sure if Cliffy has made hole protectors specifically for the Dr. Who Time Expander but I was able to use the Cliffy kick out hole protector for Williams "High Speed" with hardly any modifications.

Kevlar rings come in the kit for the time expander.

I'm leaving them off for now.

Curiously there are no shooter lane protectors in my full kit.

Should I contact cliff? Or are they separate? I paid $104 for the kit.

#2473 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

They are carbon fiber, not kevlar. Carbon fiber holds up better. I spoke directly to Cliffy on why he is changing to carbon fiber.

Yeah, the thin metal gets bent up pretty badly in time.

The time expander rings are easy to get to. So I can add them later if wear starts showing.

#2475 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

a LOT of them have that same gouge. Only thing you can really do is re-mount or shave down that gate. Maybe some felt?

I think I found the gouge problem source.
20190611_100539 (resized).jpg20190611_100544 (resized).jpg20190611_100641 (resized).jpg

The upper right is very low.
So it sits crooked and tilted to the right.

I ordered new pivot nuts and playfield mounts.

If it's still not level, I can add a shim or fender washers under the right mount.

#2477 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

A common problem. Shims are recommended. I had to add them to my game. Almost a half inch. Prior user removed pivot bolts and ruined the hole.

My bolts look worn out but still tight in the cabinet at least lol.

#2483 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

My bolts were tight, but when the playfield was down, I was able to lift up and close up the gap, which was odd to me. So installed new pivot nuts and bolt and still the same gap. Therefore, Shims under the pivot nut bracket. If you do put washers or some hime made shims, it is best to have a helper. I fabricated my shims so they would slide over the machine screws.

I really like the slotted shim idea a lot.

It looks like I need at least 1/4" or more.

I'm waiting for brackets and pivot nuts from marco right now.

I'll report back when I get it sorted out.

#2484 4 months ago

Doing a full tear down.
Full restoration in process.

Pulled all the backbox boards.

It's the gift that keeps on giving.

Gorillas with blowtorches shouldn't work on electronics:
20190615_100841 (resized).jpg20190615_100907 (resized).jpg20190615_101051 (resized).jpg
20190615_101014 (resized).jpg

Of the 5 boards 3 are perfect.
Driver and audio have some issues. Lol

I already sent them to Chris Hibler for testing and repair.

#2485 4 months ago

Modularising coils and big switch bundles for ease of maintenance later

20190615_181419 (resized).jpg
#2487 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Wow that is pretty rough looking. I have a working DW sound board if you don’t want to wait for Hibler


I might take you up on it but, its gonna be awhile before this tardis flies again. Lol

It looks like the guy I bought it from put all the bad parts from 8 different games in my game.

I think I can get it running in a few weeks.

Clearing the playfield next week and maybe start on the cabinet.

I really want to know what's going on with the crooked angled playfield.

It's still a mystery!

#2491 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Looks good, but the door needs to be blue. Here is my door painted blue.[quoted image]

I really like that color!

What color blue is it?

#2494 4 months ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Maybe a fellow Doctor Who owner can relate or guide me
I have an intermittent issue on my DW
I lock 1 ball in either R L eject hole
The game will load 1 ball and Auto Launch and then the 3rd ball into shooter lane
I have already replaced all the trough switches and shooter lane switch with new plus all new diodes
Still have the issue
I’ll also me mention that sw 71 the right most opto on MPF is stuck closed right now but per the Sw Matrix have nothing in common anywhere on the grid
Any ideas what to check ?
I was told check the obvious so I did and replaced what seemed to be the most logical but that didn’t fix the issue
Thanks in advance
I enjoy the game but want it properly working

Why is the opto 71 closed?
Bad opto?
Broken shorted wire?
Bad controller board?
Trade sides with the other opto, does the problem move?

#2495 4 months ago

I'm thinking of doing the siderails and lockdown bar in oxford (tardis) blue.

Too much?

#2507 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I say yes, The chrome balances the game, but if you have old pieces, give it a try. I did the coin door, bilt head and head plates to cabinet in blue

I'm thinking basic satin black siderails and lockdown bar.

It matches the head trim and makes the colors pop a bit.

So, black trim?

Satin or gloss?

I think the stainless looks cheap.
Chrome is good but maybe black is better?

#2510 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

If you do black, it has to be gloss, otherwise it just looks like paint. Actual chrome wouldn’t look half bad - but I don’t know if it’s the perfect thing for this game. I’ve reached out to a couple of powder coaters about doing sort of a “racing stripe” thing on the lock bars and legs. Mainly oxford blue (a touch darker actually) and a deep red stripe. It would definitely make the game pop!

Yes, a dark matching blue with black and light silver metal flake?

I saw a sample of cosmic metal flake. Looked really good like galaxy washed denim.

The hardest part is getting the right blue color.

#2513 4 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Anybody needing new slingshot kicker plastics, the ones on the marco website are washed out and look terrible. However I put a blue and ice blue GI bulbs underneath and it looks sorta presentable but wish somebody sold a better product.[quoted image]

Little shop of games had some NOS. I bought a pair, they look ok to me.

They also had nos standup target stickers.

Now, where to get the standups A-15330-4 and the little single one on the right?

The time expander red standup is not available do I got a couple regular ones and modified the bottom a bit. Seems to work for now.

#2515 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Marco sells the single standup sticker on the right. I bought some NOS left standup stickers off Ebay, they are really nice.


I got the stickers but was thinking of replacing all of the standup target switches themselves, mine are pretty beat.

#2529 3 months ago

After 27 years of battling daleks, sling switches get replaced:
20190622_113708 (resized).jpg20190622_113747 (resized).jpg

They were riveted on, and I could re-rivet them, but all the new games use screws now.

Plus they charge a lot more for a switch riveted onto a bracket that has the side tab on the wrong side.

Easy enough to flip it over on just the switch.

20190622_122649 (resized).jpg20190622_131302 (resized).jpg
#2530 3 months ago

Rit dye tests on shapeways 3d printed parts:

Rit liquid dye in black.
I put white pop bumper bodies in the dye to see if the 3d parts absorb the same.

They dont.
Soaked for 1 hour at 180 degrees

20190623_185138 (resized).jpg20190623_185202 (resized).jpg20190623_192216 (resized).jpg
#2531 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Rit dye tests on shapeways 3d printed parts:
Rit liquid dye in black.
I put white pop bumper bodies in the dye to see if the 3d parts absorb the same.
They dont.
Soaked for 1 hour at 180 degrees[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I actually like the color.
I can paint them with satin krylon if I change my mind.

The dyed plastic wont show chips or scratches.

#2532 3 months ago

I soaked some mushroom buttons in frost gray dye more for synthetics.

It was way more effective than the regular rit dye.

They came out darker than I anticipated after only 10 mins, 3 might have done it.

But I can soak them on chlorine bleach to lighten them.

I kinda like them this color for now.
20190623_191719 (resized).jpg20190623_193905 (resized).jpg

20190623_191808 (resized).jpg
#2533 3 months ago

I'm absolutely sure that with a little effort one could get the exact shade of gray they wanted with the dye.

#2536 3 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Not bad! I am considering making them silver on my game, so they look more like the Dalek bumps

I was going for a rusted steel look, but I imagine any color could be dyed.

The dyemore takes only about 5 mins.

#2537 3 months ago

Back to the crooked playfield.

Cab bolts are perfect.

Pivot nuts replaced, they were worn.
Playfield mounts are replaced.

Playfield is twisted 1/2" or more.
Upper right corner is low 1/4"

The problem is that the time expander hangs behind the playfield mounts and The 3 pop bumpers hang in the upper right corner.

This has caused a bend.

The playfield is somewhat unsupported in the rear third.

I think reese rails will stiffen it up a lot.

I added a 1/8" shim under the right mounting bracket.

This lowered the left corner and raised the right corner.

The 1/4" drop of the upper right corner is solved for now.
20190625_173832 (resized).jpg20190625_173922 (resized).jpg20190625_174022 (resized).jpg

#2539 3 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

You can see that the hole for the pivot nut and screw is worn on the inside, causing the tilt. Mine was similar and I see you used my shim idea, nice job

I was hoping that were true!

I could fix it with a dowel and re-drill it.

My inside hole is tight around the screw on both sides as it should be.

The pivot nut and screw are square to the cabinet side.

Only after measuring locations and using squares did I finally do as you suggested, add a shim.

I can possibly add a piece of 1/4" steel angle stock to firm up the twist in the playfield on the right side.

But I'm interested in whether the reese rails will do the same.

The original cardboard rails do very little on this game and have attributed to the sag in the rear.

Most notably the pop bumper area that is largely unsupported.

#2540 3 months ago

My cabinet is bowed about 1/8" horizontally and vertically, as well as the bottom (a tiny but cupped).

It might have been in a humid area.

I'll correct this during the cabinet restore.

Ill just sand off the material with the 6" ro sander until its flat enough.

#2541 3 months ago

I removed all the mylar using the freeze method today.

It took 1/4 can, sprayed a little at a time to reach optimal temperature. It worked perfectly on the diamond plated surface.

Zero paint or clearcoat loss.

Took about 20 mins.

I'm going to try rapid tac remover on this playfield to see how it works.

They promise it will remove adhesive in as little as 1 or 2 mins.

We'll see.

#2542 3 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

You can see that the hole for the pivot nut and screw is worn on the inside,

Good call!
I see it now.

Its the cabinet side that is warped/bowed.
Also there is a ground braid pushing the nut crooked. Itt see about relocating the braid.
I'll sand it flat in any case.

#2544 3 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Need a memeber to look at their game andnsee where connector J132 from the power driver board goes too. I am missing the entire connector. The schematic shows it goes to the back box for some insert flashers.

Too bad I just pulled all my harnesses, or id check it.
I remember labeling the connector...?

Does it go to the little harness on the playfield backstop right corner, there are 2 flashers there behind the big square plastic transmat sign.

#2548 3 months ago

Why is my playfield dragging on the cabinet sides?

This seems to be the source of the cabinet gouging.

The mounts are offset by 1/8"
20190628_104619 (resized).jpg20190628_104642 (resized).jpg

#2549 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Why is my playfield dragging on the cabinet sides?
This seems to be the source of the cabinet gouging.
The mounts are offset by 1/8"
[quoted image][quoted image]

The left mount is wrong.

The playfield does not hook into the lockdown reciever correctly.

I have to pull it forward on the left to get the front hangers into the slots.

So, I have to move the left bracket rearward 1/8".

#2550 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The left mount is wrong.
The playfield does not hook into the lockdown reciever correctly.
I have to pull it forward on the left to get the front hangers into the slots.
So, I have to move the left bracket rearward 1/8".

Ended up moving the left bracket about 5/32".

This did 2 things.

1) The playfield now pivots smoothly and cleanly, it no longer scrapes the sides.

2) the playfield no longer has to be forced onto the front hanger slots by pushing it sideways in the front.

Doing this causes the pivot to ride the left mount more rearward, raising it higher relative to the right bracket. The bracket has a slope built into it.
Pulling the playfield forward raises its height.

This caused the playfield to be higher on the left about 1/8".

The shim I added on the right is now removed.
20190628_123117 (resized).jpg

#2552 3 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Glad to read you fixed yours. Helpful information.

My brackets ended up about 9 7/16" from the edge.

Next time you raise the playfield it would be interesting to know if yours or all doctor who games are out of alignment.

Rdoyle1978 has stated that a very many games are scraped on the right side. Its possible that this is an issue with a lot of them.

Mine was misaligned from the factory. It's always been canted to the right and scraped the sides it seems.

I'm scraping white wood putty out of the deep notch in the cab side, ill replace it with bondo or half time.

So, a factory f#ck up....

#2555 3 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

Nice detective work on the play field misalignment

Thanks, it took awile since I thought it was just cabinet droop from wear.

And I had replaced all the pivot parts. It was a bit confusing but perseverence paid off.

#2557 3 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

I think this is a great lesson for everyone as most would assume everything to be aligned

After seeing that one of the repair targets was installed way off. I got suspicious...
20190628_160325 (resized).jpg

I'll either fill the hole and re-drill it or adjust the hole in the switch mounting bracket...or both.

#2560 3 months ago

You gotta check every wire in every connector on a routed used game.

It's amazing what you find.

Molex pins for the mains jumper.
Solder blobbed and pressed next to a pin.

Hidden from view deep in the game.

You would never know why the power was so unstable.

Probably why the game was sold!
They couldn't find the fault in the power.

My game collapsed under the weight of all the trash repairs.

All for lack of a $6 crimper
20190629_110400 (resized).jpg

#2562 3 months ago

I just got my rapid tac adhesive remover from autubodynow.com


They had the 4oz bottles and free shipping.

Sprayed it on, waited 60 secs.

Scraped off the 27 year old mylar adhesive off pretty much instantly with a plastic razor blade.

Followed up with the adhesive remover sprayed on a paper towel to gently rub off any last bits if glue, plus a little scrape here and there.

Cleaned off the adhesive remover with rapid tac cleaner/application fluid.

This stuff works fast and effectively.

Took 6 mins to remove all the mylar glue from my playfield.

It smells like goo gone kinda orange cleaner smell.

Goo gone did nothing to the glue.

This stuff is amazing.

#2563 3 months ago

Clearcoaring doctor who playfield this weekend.

1st coat down.
Filling, flattening coat tomorrow morning as well as minor keyline and black touchups.
20190704_180108 (resized).jpg20190704_180135 (resized).jpg20190704_152357 (resized).jpg

There are 2 screw punctures.
One in the doctors coat and another in a yellow line.

I might just make a black button for the coat and maybe a black triangle for the yellow.

They are tiny and really dont merit mixing and matching paint.

I can save that for the next time lol.

#2564 3 months ago

My $50 spray booth.
Held together with $6 worth of drop cloths and gorilla tape lol.

Ventilation would be nice. I have a box fan and hepa filter setup for bigger jobs. Not really necessary for a little piece of plywood lol.

Works surprisingly well for tiny playfield and cabinet work.

The key is a tyvek suit and proper respirator rated for auto clear.

My exposure is less than 45 mins per operation.

So, really safe.

#2568 3 months ago

Final clear today.
It came out pretty good.

Its mirror-like.

My sparaybooth roof diffuses the light a bit.

I'll give it a month while doing the cab and mechs.

Then we can see the die-back and final sand and buff.

I'm optimistic, it will be ok.
20190706_191006 (resized).jpg20190706_191040 (resized).jpg20190706_191056 (resized).jpg

#2569 3 months ago

With new playfields being unobtanium, it behooves us to preserve them if they can be restored a bit.

I could shop for a better game that doesn't have 2 screws carelessly plunged in the middle of the playfield, or doesnt have a warped twist in it. but it can always be fixed.

A little clearcoat and touchup does wonders. The twist is coming out with a bit of negative pressure.

I keep hearing the words of lieutenant Razak from Starship troopers.

"Hold onto what you got!"

Makes sense to me, I'll do my best lieutenant...

#2570 3 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

That’s gonna be nice. My DW has a clear coated PF and it’s a beauty. Wish the rest of the game was as nice!

Cab work isn't too bad.
I'll post some pics while I do it.

My cab has a collapsed leg and stripped out leg plates.

Plus one corner is loose and needs gluing and repinning.

Also some big gashes in it.

Nothing a little bondo and half-time cant handle.

#2575 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Pinsound video of Rush orchestration

That's really good!

#2579 3 months ago

Cabinet work started.
Its 1/8" out of square.

Probably ok.

Front corner was blown out.
The other corners are surprisingly tight.

A little glue and a few clamps.

The ryobi brad nailer for $99 works perfectly. 2" brads for the sides, 1" for the blocks.

A little bondo to fill voids.

Used a skill saw to cut gussets out or a piece of 2x4.
Sanded them to shape on a belt sander.
20190709_190813 (resized).jpg20190709_190818 (resized).jpg20190709_190827 (resized).jpg

#2581 3 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Are you just using the wood block in the corner or are you adding a metal leg bracket?

I'm upgrading all the leg brackets to the newer heavier williams ones.

#2582 3 months ago

Cabinet work begins.
Lots if voids in the plywood.
20190711_091527 (resized).jpg

Will have to cut new skids lol.
20190711_091552 (resized).jpg

The rigid 6" sander is adequate for the decal removal. 60 grit is pretty effective with shop-vac attached.
Cant beat a dust free sander.
20190711_091506 (resized).jpg

#2584 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

The Doctor Who Rush remix for Pinsound is now showing on the community website. If anyone wants to give it a try. Thanks.

Sounds amazing!
Nice work.

#2589 3 months ago

Cab primed and ready for paint
20190718_083645 (resized).jpg20190718_083652 (resized).jpg20190718_083703 (resized).jpg

My game had been poorly painted, touched up and filled a couple times in the past lol.

It took a bit to remove the prior repairs, square the cab and re-brad/re-block all the split and rotted wood.

Should last another 30 years now!

#2590 84 days ago

Cab painted and screened.
Warning on backbox.
Patent numbers on cab (you cant see the cab screen, too lazy to flip it for a pic...) lol.
20190724_191345 (resized).jpg20190724_191356 (resized).jpg

#2591 84 days ago

Next up, decals!
Yay, finally will look like a game.
One thing I learned on this resto.


End of service announcement.

Use kilz original oil based. Use a foam roller and brush (you gotta sand it any ways...)

More to follow lol

#2594 83 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Looks great so far. What do you suggest for black paint to touch up the edges and sides when they get scratched or just faded over time? Thanks.

Krylon satin black is a very close match to the original paint.

Its thin enough you can spray it on a rag, a q-tip or paper towel and rub it in.

Molotow paint pens, sharpie oil based paint pens etc.

Even a sharpie marker works but will turn purple after awhile.

#2597 81 days ago

Decals installed
Next we see if the playfield fits and how the side blades look
20190727_231508 (resized).jpg20190727_231517 (resized).jpg20190727_231525 (resized).jpg
Ministry of pinball decals do not go edge to edge.

They are quite shorter than the cab.
So I trimmed the bottom to make a black border that somewhat matches the head.

I left a slightly larger border in the rear.

It was a compromise but turned out ok.

Not many choices for doctor who decals these days unless you make your own.

#2600 80 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

The decals look good but it is odd they are too small. That is the first time I've read about smaller decals.

I was a bit surprised to say the least...(insert explative here..)

#2602 80 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I actually like this approach better - the decals that are made to wrap around end up cracking in weird places. This makes the game look very clean and almost like a modern game
Outstanding job!


After lining up and centering the artwork, large borders were the only way to proceed.

The black borders lean me towards black armor now.

I was going to get a midnight blue with fine metal flake in silver and black.

But now, satin black seems the only way to go, with fine metal flake?

It would be dark but, look clean.

So, satin black or dark blue armor?

#2603 80 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Looks great. Hell of a job dude.


Its not overly perfect, but easily as good or better than factory offerings of the time.

One of the hurdles was the exceptionally terrible plywood quality.

Something like a rough apple crate with voids and cracked veneer running all the way through.

The edges were a bit splintery, but seem to have settled down after rubbing them with titebond and light sanding.

My hobbit cab is barely centered and has some bumps in the decal work. It also has 1/4" borders roughly centered.

#2605 80 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Man that is a tough call now. Tardis blue doesn't quite work - it's just too much blue. I think if you go for a 'space' finish, black with multicolored flecks you may be in good shape

I think so too.
We have an appointment to go look at powdercoat samples at our local place next week.

He charges $100 to do all 7 pieces.

I really like the blackness of space with multicolored flake idea.

Like stars in the cosmos!


#2607 80 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

$100 for all 7 pieces!! That is a steal. 7 pieces? 4 legs, 2 rails, lock bar... are you not going to do the coin door or hinges?

Yep. $100-$150 depending on coating process. Black is very affordable.

I have a brand new 3 chute door I got from Entropy back in the day for $65 (min 10 doors, I got an assortment lol).

I might use it.

Also I want to restore the existing. It's not too bad.

Black doors look good enough if they are freshly restored.

#2609 80 days ago

Gonna maybe install the side blades later today.

#2611 79 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Where are the blades from?

Out of stock everywhere.
Pingraffix removed them off their site. Evidently copyright restrictions are in place.

Cointaker might have a set, get them now if you want a set.



Added 77 days ago:

My mistake. Tilt graphics made my gameblades

#2612 79 days ago

Dinner from my garden
Grilled zucchini and eggplant.
Chicken sandwiches etc...
20190729_202834 (resized).jpg

#2616 78 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

lol, I think pinballinreno has decided he's Chris at HEP now.

Lol no way anyone can do what Chris does, he's amazing!

I was cooking late and had a few drinks... grabbed some food from my garden, drunk dialed pinside!

My garden:
20190728_110540 (resized).jpg20190728_110551 (resized).jpg20190728_110626 (resized).jpg

And a couple fruit trees:
20190728_110726 (resized).jpg

I make a lot of our own food.

#2617 78 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Nice! Thinking mirror blades on mine this time..

I'm also thinking the same.

But its pinballgoddess game, she wants the blue ones.

If they get torn up, next ones might be mirrors.

#2620 78 days ago
Quoted from bbaker2824:

Sorry, don't have a good pic on my phone but you guys got me thinking about my art. I had to trim the edges when installing. I wonder if they had the scale wrong when they made yours?[quoted image]

Are you talking about side blades or cabinet side art?

Cabinet decals are few and far between if you are buying them.

Ministry of pinball has a few sets.
They seem to be a bit shorter than the cabinets though.

It workable and looks fine.
But it was certainly a surprise when I discovered it.

#2623 77 days ago
Quoted from bbaker2824:

Found this old pic of when I just finished the cabinet. Went with black powder coat. Think blue might look better in hind sight.[quoted image]

I think black looks pretty shartp!

Seems to match the head better.

Since I have black borders on my cab, black might just be perfect.

It would look complete.

#2626 77 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I actually think that looks really good. The blue is just too blue IMO

Rescheduled my meeting with the powdercoat company for next week.

I'm leaning heavily towards the midnight black with the blue metal flake.

Gotta see it in person...

#2627 77 days ago

Maybe pearl black:


#2628 77 days ago

So right now the main choices are prismatic colors:

American sparkle

Pearl black

What do you think between the two?

Or just plain satin black.

#2630 76 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

American - it has more of the colors from the game and cab side art

I think the American sparkle is really good.

pinballgoddess is swayed towards the pearl black lol.

In either case the colors that look blackest I think look the best.

Some of the other ones look kinda brown.

#2631 76 days ago

My mistake, game blades were by tilt graphics:


Amazing thick textured vinyl.

Colors are bright and match the cabinet nicely.

Should last a bit.
20190801_131017 (resized).jpg

#2632 75 days ago

Tilt graphics Decals in place:
20190802_192847 (resized).jpg20190802_192854 (resized).jpg20190802_192902 (resized).jpg

I really like them
Next groundbraid etc..

I painted the rear floor of the cabinet to kinda seal in the 27 years of grease that dripped off the time expander lol

#2640 71 days ago

Pinball life metal Cab protectors (not shown), Williams new style leg brackets, ground braid etc ...

Ryobi 18v stapler did a barely adequate job with a little tap with a hammer on a staple once in awhile.
But it was super easy to use.
20190806_171326 (resized).jpg20190806_171338 (resized).jpg

For some reason the transformer was not installed with the t nuts and was missing the ground when I got it. I'll ohm out the system before energising it to check for ground faults. And check that all metal is grounded including the speakers.

#2641 71 days ago

Flipper fidelity compared to the original speaker.
Transformer cleaned up and Installed. I'm not painting it lol.

Should give the pinsound a little more punch
20190806_182430 (resized).jpg

#2642 67 days ago

I hated to way the glass switch looked.
It was shot so I replaced it and painted the bracket and screws, body etc...

Also added black vinyl sleeve.
20190810_182320 (resized).jpg

#2643 67 days ago

So far the ultimate shop out sticker kit has had everything I need:

Thank you so much flashinstinct

I replaced the lockdown receiver/guide.

After the sonic cleaner removed all the rust and corrosion, the old one still looked terrible.
20190810_182303 (resized).jpg

#2645 66 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I’ve never been able to get a lockdown bar back looking original - for $60 at Mantis it’s just not worth the work if you’re going all out.
FWIW I highly recommend the PinSound speakers to pair with the PinSound board - they are made out of higher quality Kevlar. FF is great too, but having installed both I found the PinSound speakers made from better materials

I dont know what caused the deep pitting on the old lockdown bar.

After sanding it down it looked worse and worse.

Good to know about pinsound speakers.

FF came in highly recommended as far as sound quality.

pinballgoddess opted for the best sound for her pinsound ststem, FF seemed to fit the bill lol.

I do like the kevlar idea. Durability in a pinball machine is paramount to success.

#2647 65 days ago

Found broken thermistor bypassed in power box also had a 7a fuse.

Replaced it and the MOV while I had it apart.