Back in the club again after an 8 year hiatus. I grew up watching the show with my grandfather so the theme has always meant a lot to me. I am hoping this one never leaves. It's a very nice example, that I was able to pick up locally. The previous owner had it for 25 years and maintained it (which as we know is not the norm for non pinheads).

It's probably one of the first pins I've picked up I haven't had do a ton of work on. I just need to grab a handful of Titans and install some LED's in the GI and I am good to go. I overpaid a bit, but it was worth it.

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I'll post some more pics when I get it setup at home. That pic was from the seller's place. It is very clean and has some left side fade as it was in front of a window. No mini PF protector, but I'll order one up ASAP.

Some pics of this week's grab. The seller was absolutely fantastic and meticulous. He literally had a binder with all of the bulletin, manuals, etc. The cab is in great shape and all around pretty dang clean. It has left side fade because it was in front of a window. This is definitely a keeper. Sadly because of my low ceiling clearance I had to temporarily remove the topper.

I apologize for the mess in the basement, I am in the process of doing a full playfield tear down on my friend's TZ and had no intention of picking up a cab this week.

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Hmmmm, al of this talk about pinsound has me really curious now. Not something I would have ever considered, but it sounds pretty cool.

Oh. My. God. I NEED this. Damn you!

I am guessing it is just a setting. Restore both to factory and make sure they are running the same revision

And don't forget auction fees

Oh wow, I didn't know about this. Any idea on the costs/ I am guessing I just PM him to inquire?

Oooooh, I need to look into this silicone wire.

Hi Everyone,

I just installed some NVRAM in my Who, and now it's not booting. All traces seem to meter out, NVRAM installed correctly.

I know sometimes you have to change the jumpers, but there was nothing stating that it was needed with this module. It was originally a 6264. Am I missing something?

https://www.pinballlife.com/anypin-dmd-nvram-battery-eliminator.html

LED 19 On
LED 20 Off
LED 21 On

So blanking circuit is on.

Hi Guys,

Thanks, I just went through and retested my continuity including from my NVRAM to the ASIC and all is well, including those in the blanking circuit. I have no solder bridges and there is continuity from pins on NVRAm topside to solder side.

This is probably my sixth pin I have done this on and third WPC and I am definitely scratching my head.

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I tested 5V on the NVRAM and it is coming in at 4.72. The main test point on the driver board is 4.97 so a pretty significant drop.

I guess, I'll remove and reflow the 5V pin. I have other NVRAM here that I could put in, but didn't want to install them for fear of damaging them.

I went to his website and the module was configured correctly. It's definitely something that should be on Pinball Life's webpage. The game is relatively new to me and a few times when we have turned it on nothing happened, so it could be a pre-existing issue, that has just manifested now in a more permanent way with the swap.

The voltage drop seems significant, so like you stated, maybe a cap. I have a Whitewater here, so tomorrow I will swap the boards out and see what happens.

It is socketed. I just feared that had I done something incorrectly I would ruin another NVRAM. I too was wondering about the cables. Typically I replace them in every WPC I take in. I've definitely wasted dozens of hours chasing things down only to find it had been a bad ribbon cable.

Maybe I'll swap the ribbon cables first and go from there. I was just more inclined to believe it was something in my handy work first. Thank you so much for your help on this.

OK, this is most definitely related to my work

I swapped the ribbon cable-no change
Installed a diff NVRAm-no change
Swapped CPU's between White Water and Who WW worked in Who, Who would not work in WW.

I metered out U6, D1, J210 and W4 all in range.

I metered out the VCC on U8 on WW and it was 4.64. I believe the pinout of the 6264 I read stating that pin 28 was 5V is incorrect. I believe it should be in range of the battery at 4.5 as D1 VCC side was also 4.72.

So perhaps I am running too high?

Either way, this is most definitely related to my work. Not sure if it is worth the risk to hit it with the Hakko and then reflow or just send it off to get repaired. I would hate to make it worse.

Many thanks to all that helped. I took Chris Hibler's advice and re-verified all of my connections. I had a bad connection at Pin 6 (A4) on the NVRAM to the ASIC. I am not sure how I missed that. Anyhoo, I verified on my Whitewater CPU and then added a jumper and we are back in business.

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I guess I need to get one of these lifters everyone is raving about.

Best of luck. I'm really curious to see how the round of PF's hold up. I am very interested in buying one as a backup, bt my last exp with CPR was not a good one.