(Topic ID: 76377)

Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!

By HoakyPoaky

10 years ago


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Post #194 Link to @pinball_faz 's Time Expander/Mini Playfield Guide Posted by pinball_faz (9 years ago)

Post #491 Link for 3-D Printed Dalek Playfield Posts. Posted by Pinballfantexas (9 years ago)

Post #696 Link to Alternative Whomobile Pinside Thread. Posted by swinks (8 years ago)

Post #1428 ColorDMD install with pics plus other cool things. Posted by ArcadeTechNerd (6 years ago)


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#3795 4 years ago

Looking for some info if anyone has had this same issue. I get optos registering when they shouldn't. In switch test if I slam both flippers repeatedly I get intermittent triggering of all 10 optos at the same time. Just a flicker. If I slam/hit/nudge/shake the game it doesn't do it. Only with both flippers.

Certainly seems like a power issue since they all trigger exactly together.

What I've done:

- Line voltage is good (through a voltage regulator to make sure). Game never resets anyway.

- Checked power(12v) continuity from PDB to 10-opto board and it's good. Voltage at opto board is same as TP1 on PDB.

- The unregulated 12v was a bit low(around 11v) so I replaced BR5 and C30 and now it's up around 14.3v and doesn't dip.

- I've installed a separate power supply for the accessories (lit buttons, ColorDMD, extra LEDs) just to make sure I wasn't straining the 12v.

- In the special system test/check it tells me all these switches(optos) are bouncy.

Other than re-pinning all the opto board connectors does anyone have any suggestion? I don't have housings or pins. Game plays anyway just annoying that I can hear it register switches when they aren't getting hit. Especially annoying to see the DMD animation for the ramp entry all the time.

Cheers

#3803 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

For the optos, some have placed straws over the IR's to limit the beam from straying. Seems like.excess voltage is leaking from your flippers.

It’s not an opto issue. All 10 optos trigger exactly together. So far my “fix” has been to boost line voltage to 127 through a voltage regulator. I have a feeling that replacing all the caps on the PDB may be the solution. After seeing the major improvement in the unregulated 12v following a cap replacement, my guess is I am getting AC leakage in the regulated 12v which is associated with the optos.

I disconnected the flipper power just to test the flipper switches and they don’t trigger the optos. It’s only in that fraction of a second that I have a high power demand (all 3 flippers). I noticed the optos all triggered together when my bar fridge started up today (same circuit - can’t be changed).

My other pins don’t have that problem so it’s a hyper sensitivity to power dips on the DW. I will recap the reg 12v and 5v. Running at 127vac is a bandaid solution that doesn’t address the root cause(like putting a no-more reset board in your game lol).

#3805 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Definitely rebuild the power/driver board.
If you have bad power a variac should be installed.
This will stabilize the power very effectively.
I have them on my games as my power is terrible.
2000w 130v AC
ebay.com link
Replacing my 10 opto board and all of the optos solved my phantom opto closures when flippers were pressed.
After rebuilding my driver board, i still had some phantom closures when flippers were pressed. Replacing th he optos was the next step.
Its all perfect now.

What I am using does the same as your variac but instead of being infinitely variable, mine has 3 settings. 105, 120, and 127VAC. It's also preventing the odd reset on STTNG. New problems since I moved my games to this room which is the furthest point from the power panel. DMM shows the voltage to be at about 118-119 on average. Probably dips much lower for a fraction of a second when demand goes up (fridge, coils, etc).

I plan on doing the cab decals next week so I'll rebuild the PDB at the same time.

I'd rather not change the 10-opto board and all optos. May change the cap on the 10-opto board too. The boards are almost 30 years old. Seems reasonable to see dried up electrolytic capacitors...

#3826 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeTechNerd:

Indeed I did. I was just looking up the Thingiverse link since someone had asked for the .STL.
And yes, they came out very well! Looking forward to getting them installed on Doctor Who!
Thanks!

I have a resin printer and I would think they would be too brittle to get bashed by a steel ball. Can’t wait to hear from you.

#3867 4 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

I thought someone posted the stencil for the opto carrier shroud... Guess I'll just trace the one I have.
Also, just ordered this in preparation for the LCD version of the color DMD: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1206-pinshakers/03614-doctor-who-led-light-board

FYI you don't need a new light board. The LCD screen mounts above the current board. It creates the inconvenience of having to remove the speaker panel to open the door but it's not much of an inconvenience really...
IMG-2027 (resized).jpgIMG-2027 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#4090 4 years ago

Did you try the built-in test sequence?? Press and Hold enter down til countdown starts, press volume up and down together while maintaining enter pressed.

Run the tests and see what it comes up with.

#4095 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

you mean Auto Burn in test?

Newp. It’s an additional test routine for the game. Never seen it other than on DW.

As i said you don’t go into menu. You do the sequence i mentioned. It’ll test all the mpf and key solenoids. It checks for vibration issues as well.

#4100 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Is this in the manual?
I didn't catch it.

Yes it is..

Yes I am one of those that reads the manual.

1 week later
#4154 4 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

pinballjah your going to force me to get a pinsound aren't you!
I just ordered my LCD color dmd... pinsound board might be next, gotta fix this stupid opto issue first though.

Pinsound is an even better upgrade than ColorDMD for this game. I love mine.

#4156 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Thanks, Pinsound is fun, really depends on the game. You have to realize that the Pinsound orchestrations will not be as polished as the original soundtracks and not all sounds will blend perfectly with the SFX, voice tracks, etc. Some of the orchestrations that have been done for games are amazing. The good thing about Pinsound is you can move it around between games as well, if you get tired of it on a certain game.

Also keep in mind you can change all sounds if you feel so inclined. Not just music (orchestrations) but sound effects and voice calls too. I've tweaked the voice calls on my STTNG with Patrick Stewart quotes from various sources and other STTNG chracters as well. It all blends in and sounds original.

#4158 4 years ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

Hello gentlemen. Just wanted to pop in and say that Doctor Who is a criminally under rated machine, and will forever be one of my all time favorite games. I currently don't own one (but will again some day), and wish to say that, for me, it beats games like twilight zone, medieval madness, adams family, etc. Just something about this game is the perfect game, and it is a shame that it isn't higher rated.
Anyhow... carry on!

I own it and love it but let's agree to disagree!!! I prefer games with some depth and hard to achieve goals. DW is a fast game, brutal on outlanes, and some games can be so short it's cruel. However it feels like a system 11 game with a DMD(reminds me a lot of Pinbot). Very basic game play. Yes there is some strategy to follow in order to score big but I'm not a fan of points based pinballs. I like modes/missions!

That being said, DW fits well in my collection but wouldn't want too many games as simple as DW...

1 month later
#4211 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im having the greatest difficulty on getting the time expander shaker working right.
On my game the time expander itself doesn't make any sound when it raises.
There are a lot of other call outs, but no specific sound that i can determine, that is linked to the time expander rising.
There are files called time expander rising, they playback on pinsound studio, but they dont play when the time expander rises.
Or, im not looking at the right file, there are several.
I have a shake currently on the word 15, and again at zero.
It works good except when the factors start at another number depending on the doctor in charge.
So, its inconsistent
Zero always works before multiball unless you hit multiple switches and zero isnt said.
I do have the time ecpander shake well controlled when it goes down as the sound does play there.
Some ideas here would be helpful.

Pinsound has a new firmware from last week that now has native support for the shaker on dr who. You have to remove all your shaker calls though or it won’t work..

I like it and it shakes with the time expander.

1 week later
#4235 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I just uploaded another adjusted orchestration for the 12 doctors pinsound mix. Its pending approval right now.
Its called Doctor_Who_12Doctors_fixed.zip

If someone has some shaker insight for doctor who please let me know.

Shakerization is baked in the new firmware but you have to delete all your shaker calls.

#4237 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I updated to todays firmware.
I have a USB stick with the original mix from pinsound, no shakers on that.
No shakers, none whatsoever.
No officisl shakers detected.
What am i doing wrong?
It cant possibly be that difficult.
Give me an exact list of what to do.

I’m not sure.. i use the “doctoring the tardis” mix. Had shaker stuff on it. Removed all when I read the Q&A on pinsound site stating that shaker support is direct in firmware but if ANY shaker calls are programmed in pinstudio then it overrides the firmware and you lose the built in shaker support. The firmware shaker calls are way better than what I had come up with.

I also tried with the basic pinsound original mix and the shaker works on it too through firmware.

#4239 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have the newest firmware.
I have a zip file of the original orchestration from pinsound.
I let the pinsound plus extract the files.
Clean installation.
Newest firmware.
No shakers.
What sm i doing wrong?

No idea... check with the pinsound dudes. They usually answer very quickly. Nicolas worked with me last week to resolve Roadshow probs with their original mix..

1 week later
#4249 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You are very welcome!
Im making some master volume adjustments today.
Ill upload an updated version when done.
Maybe also do a google drive link here for a day or so
I also found a suitable time expander shaker sound to attach to. It works pretty good.
Im pretty excited about this.
The sound file was named space_up.
You would never know it was for the time expander lol, took weeks to find.
Lots more shaker enhancements.
The fixed.zip is what im working on now.
http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/317-doctor_who_12doctors_fixedzip/

I know you have had issues getting it to work but the built-in shaker effects do go off with the time expander already and they are fancier than what I could do with pinsound studio.... Just sayin..

#4257 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Install latest firmware, install original mix.
It works perfectly.
Others will have it easy.
Custom mixes are a separate thing if you go that direction.

That’s incorrect. The firmware supports shakerization with all mixes. Just remember that the mixes must be completely clear of custom shaker instructions for the firmware to take over. I have the doctorin the tardis, the disco, the 12 drs, and the original and they all shake. I tested them.

#4260 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

THANK YOU SO MUCH!
I removed all my custom shakers from all my mixes.
The pinsound had to check all 4 mixes i had on the USB stick.
When it was done, Holy Crap!
Official shakers worked on all mixes!
Doctorin the tardis (needs some tweaking) is so much fun with the shakers!
Its amazing, i love this game!
Pinsound with shakers Rocks!

I don't think Pinsound is for every game but yes it really makes this game. I've had quite a few folks come over and play it and comment that the music makes the game.

The LED ColorDMD is also pretty awesome. fits right in with no mods and is so damn bright! Way brighter than the LCD version.

#4265 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You dont know how much you have helped me out.
I was really lost on the pinsound shaker. Its awesome!
Standard modernizations for today's game:
2smd frosted sunlight LEDs throughout.
Alt translight
Ledocd
Color DMD LED version, perfect for this game.
Flipper fidelity or pinball pro speakers.
Pinsound plus with shaker.
My game compares to any modern game and then some.
People just love to play it!
This absolutely shows, as most games are beat to crap from millions of plays.
It a great earner on location.
I could not be happier with my game, i play it evety day.

Did you convert the GI to LED as well? This game does funky things with the GI and a GI OCD board is definitely required (and enabling the GI special features and dimming in the settings). I have both LED and GI OCD boards.

The only thing I have stopped doing on my games is upgrading the speakers. I find that in most cases(Pinsound) they sound awesome with just the stereo splitter and the addition of an external sub but don't really require new speakers. The low end is what is really missing and the external sub provides that way better than any speaker upgrade can. I use the pinnovators sub-mixer thingy to connect 4 games to 1 sub.

#4268 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I havent put in GIOCD yet.
I have GI dimming off in the settings.
Is there a lot of dimming in this game? I know the lights go off during video modes.
I also see that there is horrible flickering in the GI when i play with the dimming feature, so i just left it off by default.
I can certainly add it in, though the backbox it getting full now lol.

Here is the attract mode with the pulsing GI.

#4271 3 years ago
Quoted from pb456:

I'm almost afraid to ask - how much is the GIOCD and where to I pick it up?

If you are in the US then there are a few places you can get it from. I'm in Canada so the only option for me is Comet Pinball. It's $164USD.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/led-ocd-boards?variant=29579164975206

#4273 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

$155
http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8
I have so much money in this pin, a little more wont hurt lol!
.

All my games get Pinsound, ColorDMD and shaker if not already included, and some have better speakers. With the exchange rate and shipping and import fees it comes up to about 1000-1300USD per game. However if I ever sell them those add-ons will be removed and kept for the next game.

#4276 3 years ago
Quoted from pb456:

Interested in the Pinsound, I have heard lots of good about it - but wondering if I can save some $$$ on it by getting other speakers. The rub is I have the original speaker board style with lighting - so the mid on the left and the smaller tweeter on the right - I don't want to pitch the lighted speaker panel as I just got it, and not really into dropping another $120 on rebadged Pyle speakers (guess)...
Thoughts?

You don't have to change speakers when using Pinsound. Just buy the stereo harness to make it sound a bit better. That's what I have on mine. Original speakers with stereo harness and external sub. sounds pretty good.

#4281 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My GIOCD board for my doctor who came today.
Ill post my thoughts when i put it in on Wednesday.

wednesday?!?!? Get on with it!

#4293 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Did you adjust any of tbe settings for your GIOCD board, with the computer program?

Other than “fixing” the strings 4 and 5 for wpc I don’t think I changed other settings.

#4297 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What is "fixing the strings 4 and 5".
Does this refer to the software on strings 4 and 5 being set to always on by default?
How did you set yours up?

Just follow the instructions. http://ledocd.com/usage_gi.html

The board arrives configured for WPC95 which means strings 4 and 5 of the GI are always on. Just change it as indicated in the link.

You can play with the settings to pick a look as far as how fast bulbs turn on and off. I honestly don't remember if I changed settings but I remember trying some different fade delays out. I don't think I changed anything from stock settings.

Remember to go into the pinball settings and enable GI effects and GI dimming. I don't remember what setting number just flip through them. There aren't that many like modern sterns lol.

The machine is sandwiched between 2 others and I don't have an easy access to check the settings I have on the OCD board. I do plan on bringing it in the garage to shop it out and do the cab decals in about a month at which point I can check.

#4300 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

Really do need to get a pinsound board now, Dr who with a shaker would be awesome.

yes..... and yes...

#4303 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Finally got my GI OCD board installed today.

Yay! Glad you like it!

#4317 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

ABSOLUTELY!!!
But, I want the original one that uses the big motor from marco.
The little servo one really isnt good enough to last.
I wish I could get an original kit....

I have one... but it’s staying on my machine!

2 months later
#4403 3 years ago
Quoted from Bospins:

Hey guys
I have a bunch of parts - was gonna list in the marketplace but thought I’d post here first
- main ramp
- side ramp
- mini pf ramp
- up kicker wire form / habitrail
- full set of cliffys
- original mini pf motor, tested with a 9v battery and works
- original 5 opto boards and carrier
- motor driver board, inop, needs a rebuild
- set of decals
Would like to sell as a lot for $400. Local to Boston would be ideal because of the size of the ramp but if you want it shipped that is for sure doable.
Thanks...[quoted image]

If anyone just wants the ramps I’d be in for the rest. I already have new ramps....

#4425 3 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

OK, at least now I really have an issue, not sure if the connection was failing, but after starting to hook my volt meter to the motor's connector, one of the wires fell off the motor itself. I checked them before, but who knows. Now to see with a mirror how this sucker comes out.

I ripped a wire of the motor too while working on it. It happens. Just re solder it to the motor.

1 week later
#4446 3 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Also if you go color on the dmd with the LCD version you might want to get the 7 doctor led board.

Not required. You can mount the LCD panel higher on Dr Who. I had mine set up that way. After trying the LED version though I can confirm that I the LED look suits the game better.

#4448 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Does the LCD make it tougher to get to the boards? The ColorDMD on my TAF always blocked the white door in the backbox

Yes it blocks the hinged panel. So when you want to access the boards you need to remove the speaker panel first. Just lay it face down. Still not the end of the world....

#4453 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

With pinsound, most of us have several mixes queued up.
You have the ability to change mixes "on the fly" or during a game.
I have the original, modern, doctorin the tardis and the 13 doctors mix.
The shaker is very well implemented. I had a custom shaker mix but removed it since they did a much better job.
Mostly we play the 13 doctor mix right now as pinballgoddess loves the Jodie Whittaker and River Song call outs in it. As well as the other doctors rdoyle1978 added in the 12 doctors mix.

We mostly play with the Doctorin the Tardis mix and sometimes the disco mix because it's weird and fun at the same time.

1 month later
#4484 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Working on a Radiohead orchestration for Dr. Who. If anyone wants to volunteer to test it out on their machine, I can upload it to Google drive. Thanks.

I can test it out for ya.

#4486 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Sure, didn't know a) you had a Dr Who, b) with a Pinsound

Well.. I couldn’t test it for ya if I didn’t!!!

1 month later
#4535 3 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Finally had a great fun game with my best score to date. And yes, all my pins are set to 5 ball, myself and my wife are not good enough for 3 ball play. But wow! Was actually thinking about selling it since I keep getting low scores and has just been frustrating actually.
Finally got the shots down, mostly. Got all the doctors, beat all the video modes (I think) beat Davros once. Is the “wizard mode getting all the doctors, or something beyond beating davros?? Don’t think I will ever beat this score for a while, but much better than the previous game since I only got 5 million with 5 balls!
[quoted image][quoted image]

The other thing you can do instead of(or in addition) to 5-ball is enable 4 replay levels that auto adjust. Replays and specials award extra balls. No limit on extra balls. So when you are having a good game you are rewarded but as you get better the levels automatically adjust to make it harder to get extra balls.

All my machines are set up like that (3-ball play though). You get a brief period of easy extra balls but after a while you really need to have a good game to get the extra balls.

I'm just over 1.9B as a high score. The first extra ball gets awarded at 495M right now and then 2X, 3X, and 4X that score.

3 weeks later
#4553 3 years ago

In the process of shopping out mine and doing all the cab decals. Installing a full pf protector from Germany as well. Wondering if anyone else has. Curious to know the fitment with the cliffys. Over or under?

On a sad side note I have ruined the plastics. Had them in the ultrasonic cleaner (done this many times before) but forgot the water was so hot from the previous batch of metal parts. Artwork came off. FML. Now the long wait for repros to get here. Had a partial used set on hand but the really badly damaged plastics I have no replacement. Ordered a full set. Ugggh.

58927410-92A1-4B28-BF71-B06B6ED366D4 (resized).jpeg58927410-92A1-4B28-BF71-B06B6ED366D4 (resized).jpeg4A0B6192-295F-405E-A88F-F60199D45C5C (resized).jpeg4A0B6192-295F-405E-A88F-F60199D45C5C (resized).jpegE8E4B9D8-C886-49B2-8B27-43AEE957211A (resized).jpegE8E4B9D8-C886-49B2-8B27-43AEE957211A (resized).jpeg
#4555 3 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

That stinks about your plastics. I had always heard not to put anything with paint into the ultrasonic. I use mine for posts, screws, etc to clean them up. For plastics it was always hand clean with novus 1.

Actually my first attempt in the ultrasonic was with DW plastics from a garbage pf. It didn't matter what happened as most of the plastics were yellowed, cracked, and/or warped. They came out so friggin nice. That's when I realized the ultrasonic was good for those too. But now I know... LUKEWARM ONLY!!! or cold would work too I suppose. Also plastics shouldn't be touching each other(this I knew). In this case they shifted when I put them in the water and the ones that lost artwork were in fact rubbing against other plastics. The long piece in the pic was the one I pulled out first. Looked odd so I went to wipe it dry, hence the "wipe" look. Uggh. Expensive lesson learned.

#4557 3 years ago
Quoted from eharan:

I just picked up a Doctor Who and there is a light that is out on the ESCAPE area. The (C) insert does not light up. I looked at the light board under the playfield and can see that someone tried to perform some type of repair on the board. In addition, I noticed that one of the wires that goes into the IDC connector looks to be cut. I am not sure if this wire is meant to end at this connector or if it was accidentally cut. I was hoping that someone could look at this connector that goes to the ESCAPE light board and let me know if this wire terminates at the connector or if it continues onto somewhere else like the rest of the wires in that connector. See picture of the IDC connector and wires. I have a yellow arrow pointing to the wire. I realize that it should not have an exposed wire showing but am wondering if this wire is meant to terminate at this connector or if it is meant to continue elsewhere. This seems to be the only thing that is not working.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Thanks
Ed
[quoted image]

That wire does terminate at the connector.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#4560 3 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

In the process of shopping out mine and doing all the cab decals. Installing a full pf protector from Germany as well. Wondering if anyone else has. Curious to know the fitment with the cliffys. Over or under?
On a sad side note I have ruined the plastics. Had them in the ultrasonic cleaner (done this many times before) but forgot the water was so hot from the previous batch of metal parts. Artwork came off. FML. Now the long wait for repros to get here. Had a partial used set on hand but the really badly damaged plastics I have no replacement. Ordered a full set. Ugggh.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

PF is done. Cab is almost done, just 1 side of the head left and putting the siderails back on. Waiting for my Amazon delivery today of double sided tape. Stuff I had planned on using was too thick.

05E30D51-7450-4682-9121-5D1E7B5F8303 (resized).jpeg05E30D51-7450-4682-9121-5D1E7B5F8303 (resized).jpeg91C5BF21-6862-4630-A8D2-0AA6B6063CA1 (resized).jpeg91C5BF21-6862-4630-A8D2-0AA6B6063CA1 (resized).jpegF9DF1990-D632-4E57-A61F-3221F29476BB (resized).jpegF9DF1990-D632-4E57-A61F-3221F29476BB (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#4573 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Yes.

This is where I'm having the problem. I believe I am nailing the shot perfectly, but the velocity is causing the ball to hit the back wall and bounce right back out the way it came in.

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I'm having issues with those shots too.

You guys have the pf at the correct 6.5deg slope? Just seems unlikely this could happen. Unless you have the completely wrong flipper coils installed.

1 week later
#4598 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Looks really nice!
It makes me happy to see another one of these awesome games brought back to life!

Forgot to post pics of when it was done and back in the lineup...

8D0A342C-A2F5-4B52-BF7B-C25E3C2C15B5 (resized).jpeg8D0A342C-A2F5-4B52-BF7B-C25E3C2C15B5 (resized).jpeg91C64485-9759-4BAD-9929-AC63105EB89A (resized).jpeg91C64485-9759-4BAD-9929-AC63105EB89A (resized).jpegC3871C96-6DE1-4EBA-BDC7-D90CDC7BAE67 (resized).jpegC3871C96-6DE1-4EBA-BDC7-D90CDC7BAE67 (resized).jpeg2BE57366-B47C-4D88-ADFA-82F365FE3008 (resized).jpeg2BE57366-B47C-4D88-ADFA-82F365FE3008 (resized).jpeg82ED11EC-1645-4D4A-8546-CE4C046F45E1 (resized).jpeg82ED11EC-1645-4D4A-8546-CE4C046F45E1 (resized).jpegB90C2AB5-B011-466A-B2C0-94A9FFAB138B (resized).jpegB90C2AB5-B011-466A-B2C0-94A9FFAB138B (resized).jpeg
#4602 3 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Good call. I will take a look again. Shooter lane switch would be the primary in this circumstance right?

I don't think so. The game is probably detecting an early drain and serving up the ball from a "ball save". Does the "Here is another chance" call come up?

If yes then check outhole and both outlanes swicthes. One (or more) is slightly too tight and triggering from vibration.

#4605 3 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

No second chance. The ball is launched and immediately sends one from the trough to the shooter lane.

Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I kinda agree with you on this, that is kinda why I suggested the trough switches 1st.

Well as eyeamred2u suggested check the trough switches to make sure they aren't too "tight". Take the apron off and roll the balls manually in (in switch test).

The game may still think there are 3 balls in the trough?

#4614 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The 13 doctors mix is pretty good, I have a couple volume adjustments to do yet.

Our favourite mixes are the disco and doctorin the tardis.

We’re not fans of the new series so newer mixes relating to those doctors make no sense to us.

The fun thing is you can install a bunch on the same thumb drive and try them out. Then just leave it on your fave.

#4631 3 years ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

The saga continues, sorry. I plugged J118 plug from the 10 Opto board into the Power board, like it was originally. I decided to wait on soldering wires till I got an adapter plug. I powered on and got the same OPTO Errors 71-75 and a switch. Which means that that something went wrong, when I turned on the machine without J118 plugged in. I am at a loss. Going to get my digital volt meter out and follow the +12 volts from J118 to the 10 Opto board. Kind of scared checking it out with the power on, but that is what I need to do. I went from having fun with a working machine, to messing it up. Probably will have to call in an expert.

Make sure the connector isn’t off by 1 pin.

1 week later
#4653 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Nice Dr Who for sale in Ottawa if anyone is looking to join the club. Looks like it may have the original moving head.

It's the Mark Davidson wobble head that was made years ago and designed from the prototype moving head. Long discontinued.

EDIT: Not discontinued at all!!

#4655 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Not discontinued, just a kinda get-em-while they last sorta thing as he makes up more kits.
He still makes them! In fact they are a bit more refined now:
https://www.basementarcade.com/For_Sale.html

Awesome! I had checked a few times and didn't seem like they would make them again.

they work great

#4658 3 years ago
Quoted from RoyalJack:

Got a link to it?

Not posted yet. I will later.

1E0CE822-107D-4382-8522-F51B8AD37633 (resized).jpeg1E0CE822-107D-4382-8522-F51B8AD37633 (resized).jpeg65409544-2E31-48D5-B7EB-9B3080FB6721 (resized).jpeg65409544-2E31-48D5-B7EB-9B3080FB6721 (resized).jpeg
#4660 3 years ago

yeah but unfortunately i need to make room.

#4661 3 years ago

And it's up for sale officially. Will be leaving the club soon.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1551058312

#4665 3 years ago
Quoted from RoyalJack:

Looks great but over my budget for a Dr Who

Wrong country anyway

And in Cdn $

3 weeks later
#4684 3 years ago
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:

Hey guys I need a little help with the Dalek topper flasher. It does not appear to work and I cant find a reference to it in the service manual. I have toggled through the flasher tests, and it doers not work their either.
Anyone know off the top of their head where this flasher ties into the board...maybe a pin number? Are there any known issues with this flasher?
Thanks[quoted image]

It's right there in your list. #14.

#4686 3 years ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

"Anyone know off the top of their head where this flasher ties into the board...maybe a pin number? Are there any known issues with this flasher?"
If you are referring to the light bulb inside the Dalek Head, it is connected to 2 wires (white with organce stripe and an orange wire) that run into the top Backbox and turn left. They connect to the top of a small board in the upper left corner of the Backbox. See top of attached picture. The bottom of that board has a connector (J2) with 3 wires (black and two white with orange stripes) that drops down to the bottom of the Backbox. It gets +voltage from one connector and - ground (black wire) from another. Check the voltage of those wires and make sure they are connected. The Black ground recently came off on mine, when I was taping into the lower connector to power my wobble head Dalek.
[quoted image]

That upper left board is for the GI bulbs in the topper. The 5 bulbs in front of the Dalek. It is not for the flasher.

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