(Topic ID: 76377)

Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!


By HoakyPoaky

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by pinballinreno
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#2075 11 months ago

Hi Fellow Time Lords...Just picked up a Doctor Who machine. The head was disconnected from the cabinet and I am hopinhmg to get some nice pics of the inside of the backbox. Gonna take my time with the wiring, but always helps to have a reference. Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Ken

4 weeks later
#2104 10 months ago

Hi Time Lords,

Noticed my Doctor Who is missing the playfield glass switch and bracket. Can someone snap a few picture of this bracket and wiring for me? Where do the wires connect? Under the playfield? I see wires spliced together, juwt want to make sure I have identified the correct wires ( Wht-Red & Grn-Gry) #82 in the Switch Matrix.

4 weeks later
#2145 9 months ago

Right Flipper button wiring is all hacked and need info and pictures. Thanks

Ken

#2147 9 months ago

I have no flipper opto boards, as seen in my pics, I have the connectors, so I just want to buy new boards.and I think the metal interrupter arms. Can anyone take pics.of the connectors and boards to show me the wiring order and install pics? I see it in the schematics, but just want to know I am doing it correctly

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#2150 9 months ago

Contact user "pinballvermex" he has many parts for this game. I just contacted him for parts.

Ken

#2153 9 months ago

My Doctor who is missing the cabinet flipper opto boards and has old school switches. I am going back to the opto boards and need pics of the wiring for the connectors. I see the wiring in the op manual, bit a good visual reference is reassuring. Thanks, Ken

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#2154 9 months ago

Hello?? Does anyone see my post?

Ken

#2158 9 months ago

Thank You so much. I appreciate you taking the time. This re-import has been a nightmare.

Ken

#2160 9 months ago

ok, I will check Chris's site out.

#2165 9 months ago

Let me see what I can do. I have my ramps off, I will snap a pic and see if I can get a good result. I just redid the whomobile decal for my game.

#2169 9 months ago

Here is a quick snap of the sticker on the ramp. If you need a better pic or angle, let me know

Ken

20190111_150225 (resized).jpg
#2171 9 months ago

...back again with a picture request. My playfield sits uneven in my game and it seems the pivot hinges are missing parts. I have bolts that are chewed up. Is there supposed to be a pivot nut along with the bolt? Going to check manual for parts.

Thanks,

Ken

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#2174 9 months ago

Thank you, I just wanted to make sure there was not a washer in there as well.

Ken

#2175 9 months ago

That's a tough one.

Quoted from yellowghost:

Would anybody have hi-quality scans of the side ramp decals?
Thanks

#2180 8 months ago

Ideally,it would be nice to have decals available seperate from the ramps. Not sure why the vendors do not sell them this way for many games.

#2182 8 months ago

I know Marco Specialties sells a replacement flap or you can buy blue spring steel and make your own. I will see if I have some, If I do I can make one for you.

As for metal polish, go buy Nevrdull and use some elbow grease to clean the dull metal.

#2188 8 months ago

Seems like a no brainer to just pull the MPF or at least raise it and install the protectors. For a game like Doctor Who, that MPF needs to be inspected and cleaned, so get your feet wet and jump right in.

#2195 8 months ago

also look to make sure the flaps are not hanging up on the spring steel. They can get bent and the flaps stay up, but mostly likely the bracket is missing or the bearing that is on the bracket that engages the mechanisms to lower flaps as in Catch86's pic

#2197 8 months ago

Marcospec has the bracket, then buy some round nylon washers 3/4" diam with 3/8" hole and mak it about 5/8" thick or make your own bushing

#2202 8 months ago

Does anyone have a "clean" scan of the manual. The ones I have downloaded are low res scans and do not print well. Not really sure I want to pay lots of money for a copied manual from anyone on the internet.

Thanks,

Ken

#2205 8 months ago

Hey Group,

Just scanned the Time Expander Decal and Drop Targets from an original source. If anyone needs to make new decals, let me know.

Ken

#2207 8 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Would you be willing to share the files? I have been interested in doing a new design for the Time Expander

Sure, shoot me a pm

#2208 8 months ago

Here is a sample of my scanned images for the Time Expander and Target Decals.

TE sample (resized).pngTarget sample (resized).png

#2211 8 months ago

Saw this and had to share...

t87drt6x15e21 (resized).jpg
#2216 8 months ago
Quoted from cadmium:

The translite on my machine always bled light through a little bit due to a spill before I bought it. I read a bunch of threads and decided I was going to attempt to fix it by adding some opaque white. Long story short when dabbing it with a wet paper towel it got really bad. Anyone know of where I could source a NOS or used one?
[quoted image]

Try E bay or buy the Alternate Translites.

2 weeks later
#2229 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Wild shot here but we recently joined the Dr Who owners club again for the third time. Hoping someone might have a line on a new or used dome for the topper. I know long shot but if anyone has one for sale I would love to hear from you! Thanks. Still love this game.

Get in line, I wish Freeplay40 would remake this topper.

#2230 7 months ago
Quoted from accidental:

I'm on my second DW and this one is particularly bad at the issue of the one-way gate to the jet bumpers bouncing open and letting balls back through. It's especially bad when the balls returning around the orbit usually end up STDM!
I know this is a fairly common issue on DW so I'm wondering if anyone has come up with ideas to solve it?
I'm thinking about trying some kind of spring steel wire against the gate to hold it down a little more so that it is still soft enough to easily let balls through but counteract the bouncing effect from an active ball in the jet bumpers.

add a small weight to the flap to keep it down.

1 week later
#2240 7 months ago

My DW Lifter Kit is on its way. I will post installation pics soon.

08a4620a0a61942e67327f732223c708c4cff4a6 (resized).jpg
#2247 7 months ago
Quoted from neemypeemy:

Hi all,
So in one of my Doctor's past lives, the ramp was replaced. Apparently it did not come with the ramp sticker. So what someone did was print out of the ramp sticker image onto paper, sandwiched it sloppily in between two pieces of clear packing tape, and then stuck under the metal bracket to hold it in....
Anyone have any idea of how I can find the image of this sticker so I could find somewhere to have another sticker made? I've searched this site and googled and not having much luck.
Thanks!
[quoted image]

NeemyPeemy Have you had time to recreate this decal?
Want to replace mine now.

1 week later
#2257 7 months ago

New Lifter Kit arrived, Gonna be a fun weekend to install this awesome kit and post pictures.

3 weeks later
#2275 6 months ago
Quoted from pingeo:

The flips on the center and left daliks stay up like they’re stuck and won’t come down.

The red dalek targets are help up with a small strip pf blue spring steel and they often become bent, causeing targets to stay up. Had the same problem, took some small needle nose pliers or use a flipper switch adjuster tool and bent the spring steel. Targets reset every time. If you need a pic, let me know.

#2279 6 months ago

Hope these help. 3 spring steel flaps hold the target bar up in place until release lever is pressed, then grey target bar shifts, then flaps disengage and targets drop down. If spring steel is bent, the targets with not rest on the grey target bar.

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#2288 6 months ago

Painting Dr. Who coin door and other pieces in Oxford blue. Turned out better than I hoped. Will look better than standard black coin door, in my opinion.

Ken

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#2290 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Are you doing blue armor and legs too?

No for the legs and the lockdown bar. All other yes, I think the contrast of the chrome is a nice balance. I did paint some old legs to test, but for me, I did not like it all blue.

1 week later
#2299 5 months ago
Quoted from Muppet_Man:

Do you have some photo's of this all in place now? Thanks

Not finished but here are some install pics

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#2300 5 months ago

I made new decals for the whomobile.

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#2301 5 months ago

I made new whomobile decals

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#2303 5 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Those look REALLY good! I made a K-9 flasher to interact with the game and replace one of the Who mobiles but those look really good!

Thank You

#2307 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

That playfield looks great!

Looks great. Love those Blades

#2317 5 months ago
Quoted from supermoot:

Has anybody had any problems with a weak vuk under the tardis? I've replaced the coil sleeve and plunger and sometimes it just doesn't want to launch the ball up.

Check your connectors and test your coil.

#2320 5 months ago
Quoted from supermoot:

I just said I replaced it

100% it is Coil Sleeve!!

1 week later
#2333 5 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

How weird.
Mine had the flipper optos totally removed and replaced with leaf switches!
It works fine so I haven’t messed with it tho.

Cheap OP fix for routed games. My re import had leaf switches, I took them back to optos.

1 week later
#2349 5 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

You are reproducing the decals?(

You are most welcome.

Ken

1 week later
#2362 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I'm replacing my time expander mini playfield.
Should I add the mylar to it like the factory?
I'm inclined to believe that since it's a very busy area that it may be necessary.
Has anyone else added it to theirs?
Does anyone gave a pre-cut piece?

I would add mylar to the same areas as the original. Support the pinball suppliers and buy mylar from one of the fantastic vendors.

#2364 4 months ago
Quoted from opt_prime:

I wanted to share a couple photos with you, to see if there's anything obvious I'm doing wrong with my installation. One photo is with the screws loosened, and the other with the Edge Protector installed and screws still loose. From what I can tell, there's nothing binding, and the Edge Protector is hitting up against the black plastic piece which is behind the 5 white buttons. I'd presume the washers should go outside of the Protector, as I currently have them. The Time Expander seems to have some prior work done on it - no idea what - but I wonder if that's causing an issue.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The protector goes between the playfield and the black platic cover, not on top of it, which is what it looks like in your 2nd pic. Unless I am looking at it wrong.

#2365 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

The protector goes between the playfield and the black platic cover, not on top of it, which is what it looks like in your 2nd pic. Unless I am looking at it wrong. Here is what mine looks like finished.

20190519_170917 (resized).jpg
#2370 4 months ago
Quoted from opt_prime:

Thanks so much for taking the time to upload that photo - now it's extremely obvious how I should've installed it in the first place! I was elated to finally get it installed correctly, but wouldn't you know it - there is binding and it won't go all the way down. I guess this is where the work gets more serious.
Is the easiest / cleanest option to basically move the upper wooden playfield back a bit? I see some references to doing that, but I'm not seeing step-by-step guidance on doing that, which screws to deal with, etc. Sorry - it's probably painfully obvious I'm new to all of this after my first issue.

If that is the original mini pf, there is zero reason to elongate the bracket holes. I remember I had to loosen the post screws on the top of the mini pf to ensure a snug fit and it is perfect.

#2379 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

How is this wire routed properly?
Looks terrible on my game lol
Is this the right switch location?
Or even the right switch?
My game is a little rough, many missing or re-imagined parts.
Post a pic of how it's supposed to be done please.
[quoted image]

That is the playfield glass switch and goes into the lower cabinet. There are a few holes under the left plastic that it can be re routed.

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#2391 4 months ago

I can post some pics for you tomorrow

#2393 4 months ago

I ordered the original whomobile style in white, then spray painted it black. Looks great with my new remade decals. Left one is 3d printed, right is original.
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#2395 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

That does look quite better.
The whomobile was such an odd choice for an accessory in this game - it’s only in 1 season basically. There were SO many other choices that could have been made!

I agree, this little blank plastic with a sticker was a way to cut costs, just like eliminating the moving dalke topper. I like the whomobile mod.

#2397 4 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Eh, looks better than an exposed switch, which I assume would really have cut the cost.

of course, that is how I recieved my game, missing parts, looking crappy.

#2413 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Mini playfield shortened 2mm.
Mylar applied.
I made a paper template from my original, then cut a plywood template out of 1/8" hobby plywood.
Cut it on a self repairing mat.
New exacto blades are a must but there are still problems.
I'm going to get a burning tool and a piece of glass for future mylars.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I would have elongated the bracket holes before I cut the MPF, especially if it was the original MPF.

#2416 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It's a CPR silver repro.
They are oddly a little long on the front edge.
I wanted to have the holes better line up without reworking more stuff.
It's only like a 1 8mm difference.
It's a quick and easy adjustment on my sander.
I literally took less than a minute.
Plus I wanted to true up the edge a little for the cliffy install later on.
They take up 1mm.
I might still have to rework the bracket for this.
We'll see in a couple days.
The mylar installation took me 1 hour. Lol

Okay, that is good to know it is a repro. Glad you are using a sander and not a table saw too. The time expander is easy, follow Faz's guide.

#2418 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Thanks!
The repro mini playfields dont come with mylar.
I think in this case necessary.
Lots of bouncing, ball ejects and traffic there.
I have never seen the time expander work lol.
It was missing quite a few parts and basically taped together and disabled with a stripped gearbox.
I'm getting close to final assembly !
Maybe it will rise and work first try?
Next we will see if the wiring in the cabinet has been hacked uip lol.

Mine was a hack job too. I repinned so many connectors and bought many new parts,so I feel the pain

#2423 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Didnt have a fancy t-nut setting tool set up.
Put a leg bolt in my drill press and used the press function of it.
Worked surprisingly well.[quoted image][quoted image]

Buy an Arbor Press, works better

#2425 4 months ago

I created an image file for the 2 ramp flaps and the 2 flat plastics. PM for the file.

Ken

Flaps and Plastics (resized).png
#2441 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Are there supposed to be spacers under the clear plastic line the other ramp?[quoted image]

No, It is 2 #6-32 machine screws and nuts. Then the whomobile goes over it and screwed in.

#2444 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Thanks!
How does the switch look?

Looks ok

#2449 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It the whomobile held on with sheet metal screws also?
Or more machine screws and nuts?

Panhead screws

#2452 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

In the photo it looks like #6 or #8 pan head sheet metal screws hold on the whomobile on.
Thanks!

Marcospec has them under the Dr. Who parts section

#2459 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have an issue with the playfield scraping/gouging the sidewall.
Is this gate installed correctly?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Move the gate, it has some wiggle room.

#2461 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Try bending it slightly in. I think it’s the wire that causes the damage.
My DW is in Ohio right now. Man, wth, do we have the same exact collection? Lol

Don't bend it. Lift the playfield up and loosen the screws and move it inward. problem solved.

#2470 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Kevlar rings come in the kit for the time expander.
I'm leaving them off for now.
Curiously there are no shooter lane protectors in my full kit.
Should I contact cliff? Or are they separate? I paid $104 for the kit.

They are carbon fiber, not kevlar. Carbon fiber holds up better. I spoke directly to Cliffy on why he is changing to carbon fiber.

#2472 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

And what did he say?

I stated why he changed

#2476 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think I found the gouge problem source.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The upper right is very low.
So it sits crooked and tilted to the right.
I ordered new pivot nuts and playfield mounts.
If it's still not level, I can add a shim or fender washers under the right mount.

A common problem. Shims are recommended. I had to add them to my game. Almost a half inch. Prior user removed pivot bolts and ruined the hole.

#2479 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Was it “because it holds up better”? I was confused by the wording

Yes, Cliffy said that the stainless was "breaking" down faster than anticipated, so Carbon Fiber was the better option. Sorry fot ot being clear on that.

#2480 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My bolts look worn out but still tight in the cabinet at least lol.

My bolts were tight, but when the playfield was down, I was able to lift up and close up the gap, which was odd to me. So installed new pivot nuts and bolt and still the same gap. Therefore, Shims under the pivot nut bracket. If you do put washers or some hime made shims, it is best to have a helper. I fabricated my shims so they would slide over the machine screws.

#2490 3 months ago
Quoted from GAP:

Just redecaled a Dr Who this weekend.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good, but the door needs to be blue. Here is my door painted blue.

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#2492 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I really like that color!
What color blue is it?

Oxford Blue

#2503 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I'm thinking of doing the siderails and lockdown bar in oxford (tardis) blue.
Too much?

I say yes, The chrome balances the game, but if you have old pieces, give it a try. I did the coin door, bilt head and head plates to cabinet in blue

#2504 3 months ago

Evaporust did a great job on my rusty legs...

Legs (resized).png
#2514 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Little shop of games had some NOS. I bought a pair, they look ok to me.
They also had nos standup target stickers.
Now, where to get the standups A-15330-4 and the little single one on the right?
The time expander red standup is not available do I got a couple regular ones and modified the bottom a bit. Seems to work for now.

Marco sells the single standup sticker on the right. I bought some NOS left standup stickers off Ebay, they are really nice.

#2516 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Thanks!
I got the stickers but was thinking of replacing all of the standup target switches themselves, mine are pretty beat.

Oh oh, nah, just put new stickers on them. it is a PIA to replace them

1 week later
#2538 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Back to the crooked playfield.
Cab bolts are perfect.
Pivot nuts replaced, they were worn.
Playfield mounts are replaced.
Playfield is twisted 1/2" or more.
Upper right corner is low 1/4"
The problem is that the time expander hangs behind the playfield mounts and The 3 pop bumpers hang in the upper right corner.
This has caused a bend.
The playfield is somewhat unsupported in the rear third.
I think reese rails will stiffen it up a lot.
I added a 1/8" shim under the right mounting bracket.
This lowered the left corner and raised the right corner.
The 1/4" drop of the upper right corner is solved for now.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You can see that the hole for the pivot nut and screw is worn on the inside, causing the tilt. Mine was similar and I see you used my shim idea, nice job

#2543 3 months ago

Need a memeber to look at their game andnsee where connector J132 from the power driver board goes too. I am missing the entire connector. The schematic shows it goes to the back box for some insert flashers.

Thanks,

Ken

#2545 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Too bad I just pulled all my harnesses, or id check it.
I remember labeling the connector...?
Does it go to the little harness on the playfield backstop right corner, there are 2 flashers there behind the big square plastic transmat sign.

Im not sure, I never thought to look there.

#2547 3 months ago
Quoted from Catch86:

Nothing on J132 on mine.[quoted image]

Thank You. I wonder why this plug is empty, yet it shows on the schematic. I was pulling my hair out.

#2551 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Ended up moving the left bracket about 5/32".
This did 2 things.
1) The playfield now pivots smoothly and cleanly, it no longer scrapes the sides.
2) the playfield no longer has to be forced onto the front hanger slots by pushing it sideways in the front.
Doing this causes the pivot to ride the left mount more rearward, raising it higher relative to the right bracket. The bracket has a slope built into it.
Pulling the playfield forward raises its height.
This caused the playfield to be higher on the left about 1/8".
The shim I added on the right is now removed.

Glad to read you fixed yours. Helpful information.

#2554 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My brackets ended up about 9 7/16" from the edge.
Next time you raise the playfield it would be interesting to know if yours or all doctor who games are out of alignment.
Rdoyle1978 has stated that a very many games are scraped on the right side. Its possible that this is an issue with a lot of them.
Mine was misaligned from the factory. It's always been canted to the right and scraped the sides it seems.
I'm scraping white wood putty out of the deep notch in the cab side, ill replace it with bondo or half time.
So, a factory f#ck up....

I will be checking after next week when I return from Vacation.

1 week later
#2580 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Cabinet work started.
Its 1/8" out of square.
Probably ok.
Front corner was blown out.
The other corners are surprisingly tight.
A little glue and a few clamps.
The ryobi brad nailer for $99 works perfectly. 2" brads for the sides, 1" for the blocks.
A little bondo to fill voids.
Used a skill saw to cut gussets out or a piece of 2x4.
Sanded them to shape on a belt sander.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Are you just using the wood block in the corner or are you adding a metal leg bracket?

#2586 3 months ago
Quoted from wlf_:

found this at the flea market today, exterminate![quoted image]

Awesome. Please scan that so I can make my own sticker.

2 weeks later
#2614 75 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Dinner from my garden
Grilled zucchini and eggplant.
Chicken sandwiches etc...
[quoted image]

What the heck...is this Instagram now lol

#2625 74 days ago
Quoted from bbaker2824:

Found this old pic of when I just finished the cabinet. Went with black powder coat. Think blue might look better in hind sight.[quoted image]

Black is a nice touch, as it plays well against the cab decals. I know, for me, I just painted my coin door and the bolts and hinges oxford blue, as I like the way the chrome of the siderails, legs and lockdown bar look. All of the De. Who's that I have seen with different color schemes look amazing to me.

#2638 68 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

It looks like it’s the small board and servo. I will check both Thanks

Buy the heavier duty servo with metal gears. Mine had the cheap plastic gear servi and it lasted maybe 2 months.

1 week later
#2666 57 days ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Thanks for all the pics. I've got enough odd ball stuff around here to make something work.
Now, it's getting the time expander to go up and down correctly. Lots of worn parts on this game.

I have an extra bushing I made at work out of Delrin material. If you want it PM me and I will ship it to ya no charge.

#2669 55 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Door is done.
I have new ones but I thought this one could be saved.
It was pretty bad.
Dented in and pried open a bit.
Missing the coin slots and reject buttons etc..
I can pound on it a bit more, but I think its ok for now.
Paint was via Mr Bryan Kelly technique, works perfectly.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge Bryan.
Looks pretty close to factory as far as finish.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Lock is a little long but I have a box of them to use up. I just put a little bend in the hasp.

It would have been nice to see that door painted tardis blue instead of black. All the new decals and that Black door just looks so darn arghhhhh....Not my game, just my 2 cents. Great job on the resto.

#2674 54 days ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

You could just buy this also.
ebay.com link » Bally Dr Who Pinball Machine Time Expander Opto Fix
I recently used it on a game and it worked perfectly.

I bought it and works great.

#2690 50 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Working in the pretzel of warps on my playfield.
The right edge that has the short wooden siderail is a problem.
There is just no support for the pop bumpers and the weight of the time expander.
This causes a droop in the right upper corner.
Easily fixed with a new playfield that is non-existant ☹.
So. I'm inclined to add a support on the right edge.
I'm thinking a 1/2" stainless corner brace like for tile edging.
The upper right posts will shore it up with very little reworking.
I'll post what I come up with.

Shim the playfield pivot bracket. That droop will go away. I did this to mine and the droop went away.

#2699 49 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

No steel support. It can be added later if need be.
Reese rails next month when they get back to work.
Reverse bending, a little heat with a hair dryer only, NOT HOT!
Just about 130 degrees F over a large area of the center, Kinda diagonally where it looked tight?
For about 90 mins.
Followed with dry Terry cloth towels out of the 6 degree freezer.
Shim still in via eyeamred2u recommendation, thanks! Your experience paid off.
Twist is drastically reduced.
I hope it stays.
Right now it looks a close as they come from the factory.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I know the shim is not the best approach, it it has held up quite well on my game.

#2717 44 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have a full set of cliffys.
I'm unclear as to shooter lane protection.
Can you or someone post a picture of shooter lane cliffys in doctor who?
I don't see any shooter lane guards in my full kit, that I recognise.

It is the ball eject to shooter lane protector. Cliffy makes it.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/balleject/ShonDrWhoEJ1.jpg

#2760 39 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Got the posts and flatrails done.
Chris hibler should send my poor hacked boards back soon.
I really want reese rails for this game. My timing is poor I guess
As soon as I needed them he went on a much needed an much deserved vacation...LOL !
I can install them later, if I can get them.
NOS lane guides from marco. They are pretty warped but the colors are good.[quoted image][quoted image]

How come you did not repair the Damage at the front of the time expander. Cliffy's will cover it, but I would have put some filler in those divots.

#2761 39 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I'm also putting back in the lightning flipper bats.
It came with standard bats but you get a little more power off the coils with slightly shorter bats.
The 1/8" seems like a lot shorter, but the game came with lightning flippers.
1/4" increase in flipper gap should be challenging lol.
I can always change them if it's too hard to play.
Has anyone else put in the lightning flippers?

I did, had broken flippers on mine when I got it. Now it plays perfectly.

20190523_124940 (resized).jpg
#2774 39 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I’m confused - this game came factory with Lightning flippers. Do you mean it had regular flippers at first and you replaced them?

The operators changed them, so I put it back to original Lightning Flippers. The upoer left is a standard flipper bat.

#2775 39 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Thankyou so much for the playfield picture!
Pinside is amazing!
I didnt take any overview shots.
I started by doing a simple shop and wax. There was so much damage and nonsense going on, I had to do a complete restoration.
You just saved me hours if work!
And, I like the black flipper rubber now...
In the picture your flippers are adjusted up from the alignment holes.
Is that a gameplay afjustment to make it play better?

I put a toothpick in the holes to set my adjustment stop.

#2779 39 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Toothpick, Allen wrench etc goes between the rubber and the bat then in the hole.
Yours look high from how it looks in the picture.

Just the camera angle, they are dead on when a toothpick is inserted.

#2781 37 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Sorting out rubber colors and checking if all the posts are correctly placed. Per the maual.
I'm going with white rubber and cliffy urethane post sleeves.

I started with white rubber, then immediately went to black and Cliffy's colored post sleeves. White just looked silly to me. It may look amazing on yours, can't wait to see the game

#2782 37 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Sorting out rubber colors and checking if all the posts are correctly placed. Per the maual.
I'm going with white rubber and cliffy urethane post sleeves.
I have to see what black flipper rubber I have in stock...
Time expander cliffy added.
I had to elongate to mounting holes 1/8" towards the rear to get it to fit correctly.
[quoted image]
This star post look like it was installed at the factory from the playfield fade.
Manual shows it as a white "I" post.
I'm leaving it, looks like a better support.
[quoted image]

I started with white rubber, then immediately went to black and Cliffy's colored post sleeves. White just looked silly to me. It may look amazing on yours, can't wait to see the game fully finished.

#2787 36 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

White rubber always looks better IMO. Black just looks too dark.
With Titan rings tho, man it’s hard not to do translucent. I didn’t think I’d like that look but I’ve done it on a couple machines now and I think it looks great.

It always comes down to personal choice. I want to see DW done up with Titans amd Cliffy posts.

#2790 36 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

I’ve done the posts and the flippers on mine but the white rubber was still good enough not to have to swap yet.[quoted image]

Looks great! Gonna have to snap a few pics of mine and compare.

#2799 33 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I’m a little perplexed at the small number of mods for this game too. But I guess once you have the Tardis and a Dalek what else really is there

The mods are there. The whomobile was remade, and could have lights added to it.

#2817 33 days ago

I have a super clean scan of the time expander decal, I scanned an original. I printed all my own decals for Doctor Who. I can send it to you if you want to make your own decals. I also have the decals for drop targets and the time expander metal shroud.

#2819 32 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think I got them from you!
I'm going to see if my sign guy can make good prints from them.
Coming up. Gotta get there first lol.
I'm also copying the ramp decal set that came with my ramps for future spares.
None seem to be available separately.

The ramp decals are the only ones I am missing. If you scan them, please send me the files.

#2825 31 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Ok guys, I picked up a Doctor Who and had a chance to take a quick look last night. The game is a reimport. Still has all incandescent bulbs.
When I checked it out with the seller the enter button on the coin door stopped working which prevented me from doing any testing. One of the batteries had leaked a bit. It looks like that is likely the cause of most of the issues. The seller was having it reset on double flips. Hopefully I can clean the MPU up and get her functional. It was flipping at the sellers but now I get pinballs missing on the display.
Playfield is pretty good overall. No bare wood that I can see so far. Novus 2 cleaned up a bunch of the gunk. Cabinet is pretty good too, faded on from and right but still looks good. Dmd has a the bottom two rows and the right two columns out. I plan to clean her up and put LEDs in it. I was thinking warm white or sunlight comets for the GI. What are you guys running?
I ordered one of the kahr daughter boards as well. Not sure I will need that but ordered it when I thought it was likely the 5v reset issue.
One spot on the playfield I wanted to get some input on is right above the flippers where the trapezoidish piece of mylar is. It looks like it's just the mylar getting boogered up and which was touched up. Thoughts on removing it? Would hate to find serious wear underneath though.
Looking forward to getting this game up and running again and joining the club.[quoted image]

That is a bad touchouch job if I ever saw one.
Almost looks like a bad sticker decal in some spots.

#2826 31 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Most Doctor Who games are pretty rough or suffer from corrosion or both.
Typical repairs needed:
Rebuild the power supply board.
Rebuild AC power box with new line filter varistor and thermistor. Add in the removed service outlet, add in 8 amp fuse.
The area below flippers looks like wear thru the clearcoat that has been touched up, sand it flat apply thin mylar over the area for now.
The whole playfield should be sanded, touched up and re-cleared at a later date.
Replace display with colorLED.
Send CPU board in for rebuild/repair.
Check GI connector on driver board and replace with trifurcon. Re-Cap driver board with cap kit.
Install regular 2SMD frosted sunlight LEDs throughout.
Use 5SMD towers for the 906 bulbs.
Install LEDOCD board.
Rebuild time expander.
Re-decal cabinet.
These few items should make the game last for years to come.

Do not install high end options unless u really want this game. Get it running first, then assess the longevity.

1 week later
#2878 23 days ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

Thanks guys, when i got the pin at home i'll send some pics

Buy Ulf's Linear Rail kit to upgrade the Mini Playfield.

#2888 23 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Ulf’s kit is REALLY well made - I do however think it is important to go through Faz’s guide so that you really really understand how the MPF works. Ulf’s kit won’t help you if something else goes wrong on the MPF

Motor/Gearbox would be the only big issue. Ulf's kit fixes the slop from a worn main bracket assembly and rollers. It just makes sense to replace the opto boards too and buy the upgraded motor board Ulf was testing.

#2889 23 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I'm rebuilding the pop bumpers.
Lots of worn out parts:[quoted image]

Thoae parts look good to me! LMAO

#2895 23 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Pop bumper led test.
I think the lighted cover puts out just about the perfect brightness.
And the frosted bodies glow really good without being a huge distraction.
My goal was to add light to the area without going crazy.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I may have chosen orange for the body and yellow for the platters. Clear bodies make it almost too bright, but if you like it, that is all that matters. Looking very nice so far!!

#2896 23 days ago

Can someone take.measurements of the playfield glass switch bracket. I want to make a new one, mine is missing. I need the hole.spacing and size. Thanks,

Ken

59f35589b7707e2ebe02bbb45980832da3bda9dd (resized).jpg
#2902 22 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I'll take mine off and post the measurements.
I was taking it off to paint the bracket anyway!

Thank You.

#2904 22 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Thus should be really easy to make out of 1/20" or 1/16" scrap:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The switch mounting hole on the right is slotted for adjustment.

Thank you. I already have the material, just needed hole to hole spacing. How long is the blade on the switch?

#2922 16 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Not Tardis blue ?!?!
Where did you get the serial number stickers?

Inkochnito can give you a template or if you provide info he can make them and you can print them yourself

#2927 15 days ago
Quoted from Turboghia:

So I removed my Time Expander and in the process of unplugging the connectors I pulled a wire out of one of the smaller connectors. It’s the one that powers the lamps on the cover (4 pin connector). Does anyone know the size those terminal plugs are? There are two sizes of connector pins and the one I need to replace is the smaller pin diameter

Larger pins are usually .093 and smaller can be .062 pins

#2931 14 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

MPF probably needs a complete refresh. New motor, optos and adjustment.

Put the game in test mode and run the MPF up and down. Check for slop in the main assembly. Replace optos and clean the assembly unit. Motor/gear box are usually ok. If ya have the extra money, buy the motor/gear box.

#2935 13 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Ok cool thanks for the input. I wasn't able to test the MPF previously as the coin door controls weren't functioning properly (MPU problems). Once I saw it was working, I went straight into play the game mode I am planning one doing a teardown to clean it up and put in new lights and fix up problems it may have. Is the time expander opto fix (ebay link just above my post) a recommended add-on or only to fix a specific issue?

It is a solid fix! Worth the money and the opto cover as well

#2943 12 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

This metal wire is responsible for cabinet gouging.
[quoted image]
It basically sticks out 1/4" past the playfield.
Tap it with a hammer to locate it on the wooden siderail.
Drill a 1/16" hole at a slight angle about 5/16" deep that somewhat matches the wire angle.
Put a drop of titebond on the wire.
Stuff it into the hole you made.
Now it sits fairly flush and no more gouging of the cabinet wall.

To be fair, the sagging playfield conteibuted quite a bit to the gouge. I did have to adjust that bracket.

#2960 8 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Hammermill 32lb gloss laser paper.
Canon image pass color laser.
3mil mylar laminate.
I'm working on brightening the colors slightly. Maybe lol

Give me a day or two and I will re work the image.

#2962 8 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

That would be Awesome !
email it to me. Please.

I will. I just scanned a promo Tardis sticker. I have a bumper sticker I am gonna do next.

#2968 7 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

How thick is that Hammermill stuff? All the doctor who I have seen seam to have a problem. The original decals peel around the edges. I guess they are too thick or the adhesive is not strong enough to make them stick to round surface. Maybe it would look better if they were resized to only fit the flat areas? Is that possible?

I use Papilio vinyl paper that is 3 MIL thick. Poor adhesion, lack of glue and old age did in these labels.

#2970 7 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Hammermill 32lb gloss laser paper.
Canon image pass color laser printer.
3mil crystal clear adhesive mylar laminate.
3m 467mp adhesive applied to stickers for mounting.
Print, stick on the laminate, stick on the glue-tape.
Trim and peel off the backing to apply.
Pretty easy and durable results.
Edges seem to stay down really well.

I refuse to use 3m tape. The vinyl paper is already peel n stick.

#2991 6 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Does this also need to be lamanated afterwards? Could you upload a picture of something you have printed with this paper?

yes ,I cover it with UV resistant mylar film. Here are my custom whomobile decals

20190419_090909 (resized).jpg20190419_091851 (resized).jpg
#2993 6 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Wow those look really good! Now if you could just get to work on the gawdawful whomobile covers themselves!

Lol...I had a few ideas

#2998 6 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Looks good.Are the paper standard size? I need to reproduce the two decals over the "repair" targets. They are well over 12 inches.

Papilio sells paper in larger sizes.

#3001 6 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

So is there a complete set of decals now scanned? I would love to do a retheme or at least a “re-color” of the game and make it a bit less of the yellow/orange. The original art is fine but this is something I’ve wanted to do for a while, and include more doctors eventually

No. The ramps decals are not available, but most of the other are.

#3007 6 days ago

Working on it

#3026 4 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My time expander is a little clunky and does wobble a little.
It doesnt do this on the workbench. It's pretty smooth.
It has all new parts and had no binding during assembly.
I'm not adverse to pulling it apart.
It's probably time for some fine tuning now that all the difficult game errors are gone.
What would cause this?
What are common areas to look at?

The inside of the assembly is usually worn uneven, due to lack of lubrication and maintenance. Even replacing the bearing rollers will still not fix the uneven effect.

#3036 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

This is good to know.
I did replace the rollers and the main bracket. It had huge wear areas like it was routed out by a machinist lol.
The inner bracket is original.
I'll take a look at it more when I sort out the opto assembly in a few days.
Thanks!

Those worn areas make the up and down motion more wobbly, plus the original deaign is awful. If you can buy Ulf's linear kit, I suggest it. Mine is so smooth now with is kit.

#3038 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think I will get Ulf's kit.
I'm not impressed with the original mech now that it's up and running.
I just want to know how durable and trouble free it is after a few thousand games.

Did u put a new motor/gearbox in? I know his friend is working on a new bidirectional motor board with great new features.

#3039 3 days ago

Ok, worked on a decal today, cleaned it up. Need to print to see if colors are close. If this is good I will make up a sheet with this and some others that I am working on.
Screenshot_20191010-105732_Snapseed (resized).jpg

#3042 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Wow! That's dead on perfect!
I'm looking forward to getting it.
I was playing with the rounded corner tool in GIMP, its way cool.
Now, how to get my printer to match the screen...it can be way off.
A single hole, hole-punch makes the perfect sized hole on this.
I'm thinking about escape target stickers. There's got to be a cool idea out there.
The PDI ones are ok. A bit over priced but just ok.

Thanks, next is the WHO ramp, I need to clean the white areas up a bit. I want nice decals for everyone.

#3046 3 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Awesome.
You reckon you can re-produce the two stickers over the "repair" droptargets?

I know someone else in this group was working on a few of the larger ramp decals but have not heard from them lately. If someone can snap pics of them, I can work on them.

#3047 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Easy to do, but one has to have a 11 x 17 scanner/printer.
It might be possible to cut the images in half so that regular printers can make an acceptable sticker for the longer ones.

The larger one need to go to a printer service, unless your printer can do roll feed

#3050 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yep.
But if the artwork was reworked in halves, I think it would look the same after the stickers are applied.
The cut seams would be neglegible or 1/8" overlap, and could be printed on one sheet.
Cut by hand or cameo/silhouette machine.
Then anyone could print it.
I know, its a lot of photo work...

I would not do a half sticker. Just my opinion.

#3053 1 day ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I played a test game last night.
The balls now lock perfectly on the MPF.
The balls release one at a time as expected.
Question:
Is the music supposed to change when the balls are released from the MPF? The music and everything seems to the same as in single ball play.
There seems to be no indication that Im in a multiball when the balls are released.
Im using the rdoyle1978 enhanced modern mix on pinsound.

Yes, the Dalek goes crazy and starts a crazy wind sound

#3055 1 day ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

This is definitely not happening.
Im at a bit of a disadvantage here. I dont have an original sound card to compare anything to.
Ill try some of the other mixes and see if they do something different thanks.
How do I test the 4 bulb topper light? The dalek flasher works perfectly, the little 4 bulb board tests out perfectly on my bench.
It doesnt light in all lamp test. Is is tied to a voice call out?

I believe those are tied to a special solenoids if I remember. I have a moving Dalek topper, so my setup is different now

#3063 1 day ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

What do those lights even do? I seem to recall they just stay on to light the Dalek

The lights are on in attract mode, and I believe during gameplay as well

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