Doctor Who
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Hi Fellow Time Lords...Just picked up a Doctor Who machine. The head was disconnected from the cabinet and I am hopinhmg to get some nice pics of the inside of the backbox. Gonna take my time with the wiring, but always helps to have a reference. Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks,
Ken
Hi Time Lords,
Noticed my Doctor Who is missing the playfield glass switch and bracket. Can someone snap a few picture of this bracket and wiring for me? Where do the wires connect? Under the playfield? I see wires spliced together, juwt want to make sure I have identified the correct wires ( Wht-Red & Grn-Gry) #82 in the Switch Matrix.
I have no flipper opto boards, as seen in my pics, I have the connectors, so I just want to buy new boards.and I think the metal interrupter arms. Can anyone take pics.of the connectors and boards to show me the wiring order and install pics? I see it in the schematics, but just want to know I am doing it correctly
My Doctor who is missing the cabinet flipper opto boards and has old school switches. I am going back to the opto boards and need pics of the wiring for the connectors. I see the wiring in the op manual, bit a good visual reference is reassuring. Thanks, Ken
20181227_190800 (resized).jpg20181227_190854 (resized).jpgLet me see what I can do. I have my ramps off, I will snap a pic and see if I can get a good result. I just redid the whomobile decal for my game.
That's a tough one.
Quoted from yellowghost:Would anybody have hi-quality scans of the side ramp decals?
Thanks
Ideally,it would be nice to have decals available seperate from the ramps. Not sure why the vendors do not sell them this way for many games.
I know Marco Specialties sells a replacement flap or you can buy blue spring steel and make your own. I will see if I have some, If I do I can make one for you.
As for metal polish, go buy Nevrdull and use some elbow grease to clean the dull metal.
Seems like a no brainer to just pull the MPF or at least raise it and install the protectors. For a game like Doctor Who, that MPF needs to be inspected and cleaned, so get your feet wet and jump right in.
also look to make sure the flaps are not hanging up on the spring steel. They can get bent and the flaps stay up, but mostly likely the bracket is missing or the bearing that is on the bracket that engages the mechanisms to lower flaps as in Catch86's pic
Marcospec has the bracket, then buy some round nylon washers 3/4" diam with 3/8" hole and mak it about 5/8" thick or make your own bushing
Does anyone have a "clean" scan of the manual. The ones I have downloaded are low res scans and do not print well. Not really sure I want to pay lots of money for a copied manual from anyone on the internet.
Thanks,
Ken
Hey Group,
Just scanned the Time Expander Decal and Drop Targets from an original source. If anyone needs to make new decals, let me know.
Ken
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Would you be willing to share the files? I have been interested in doing a new design for the Time Expander
Sure, shoot me a pm
Quoted from cadmium:The translite on my machine always bled light through a little bit due to a spill before I bought it. I read a bunch of threads and decided I was going to attempt to fix it by adding some opaque white. Long story short when dabbing it with a wet paper towel it got really bad. Anyone know of where I could source a NOS or used one?
[quoted image]
Try E bay or buy the Alternate Translites.
Quoted from Yelobird:Wild shot here but we recently joined the Dr Who owners club again for the third time. Hoping someone might have a line on a new or used dome for the topper. I know long shot but if anyone has one for sale I would love to hear from you! Thanks. Still love this game.
Get in line, I wish Freeplay40 would remake this topper.
Quoted from accidental:I'm on my second DW and this one is particularly bad at the issue of the one-way gate to the jet bumpers bouncing open and letting balls back through. It's especially bad when the balls returning around the orbit usually end up STDM!
I know this is a fairly common issue on DW so I'm wondering if anyone has come up with ideas to solve it?
I'm thinking about trying some kind of spring steel wire against the gate to hold it down a little more so that it is still soft enough to easily let balls through but counteract the bouncing effect from an active ball in the jet bumpers.
add a small weight to the flap to keep it down.
My DW Lifter Kit is on its way. I will post installation pics soon.
08a4620a0a61942e67327f732223c708c4cff4a6 (resized).jpgQuoted from neemypeemy:Hi all,
So in one of my Doctor's past lives, the ramp was replaced. Apparently it did not come with the ramp sticker. So what someone did was print out of the ramp sticker image onto paper, sandwiched it sloppily in between two pieces of clear packing tape, and then stuck under the metal bracket to hold it in....
Anyone have any idea of how I can find the image of this sticker so I could find somewhere to have another sticker made? I've searched this site and googled and not having much luck.
Thanks!
[quoted image]
neemypeemy Have you had time to recreate this decal?
Want to replace mine now.
Quoted from Pin-Geo:The flips on the center and left daliks stay up like they’re stuck and won’t come down.
The red dalek targets are help up with a small strip pf blue spring steel and they often become bent, causeing targets to stay up. Had the same problem, took some small needle nose pliers or use a flipper switch adjuster tool and bent the spring steel. Targets reset every time. If you need a pic, let me know.
Hope these help. 3 spring steel flaps hold the target bar up in place until release lever is pressed, then grey target bar shifts, then flaps disengage and targets drop down. If spring steel is bent, the targets with not rest on the grey target bar.
20190406_193312 (resized).jpg20190406_193134 (resized).jpg20190406_193016 (resized).jpg20190406_192932 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:Are you doing blue armor and legs too?
No for the legs and the lockdown bar. All other yes, I think the contrast of the chrome is a nice balance. I did paint some old legs to test, but for me, I did not like it all blue.
Quoted from Muppet_Man:Do you have some photo's of this all in place now? Thanks
Not finished but here are some install pics
20190419_090235 (resized).jpg20190419_090302 (resized).jpg20190419_090407 (resized).jpgQuoted from Rdoyle1978:Those look REALLY good! I made a K-9 flasher to interact with the game and replace one of the Who mobiles but those look really good!
Thank You
Quoted from pinballinreno:That playfield looks great!
Looks great. Love those Blades
Quoted from supermoot:Has anybody had any problems with a weak vuk under the tardis? I've replaced the coil sleeve and plunger and sometimes it just doesn't want to launch the ball up.
Check your connectors and test your coil.
Quoted from supermoot:I just said I replaced it
100% it is Coil Sleeve!!
Quoted from gunstarhero:How weird.
Mine had the flipper optos totally removed and replaced with leaf switches!
It works fine so I haven’t messed with it tho.
Cheap OP fix for routed games. My re import had leaf switches, I took them back to optos.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I'm replacing my time expander mini playfield.
Should I add the mylar to it like the factory?
I'm inclined to believe that since it's a very busy area that it may be necessary.
Has anyone else added it to theirs?
Does anyone gave a pre-cut piece?
I would add mylar to the same areas as the original. Support the pinball suppliers and buy mylar from one of the fantastic vendors.
Quoted from opt_prime:I wanted to share a couple photos with you, to see if there's anything obvious I'm doing wrong with my installation. One photo is with the screws loosened, and the other with the Edge Protector installed and screws still loose. From what I can tell, there's nothing binding, and the Edge Protector is hitting up against the black plastic piece which is behind the 5 white buttons. I'd presume the washers should go outside of the Protector, as I currently have them. The Time Expander seems to have some prior work done on it - no idea what - but I wonder if that's causing an issue.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The protector goes between the playfield and the black platic cover, not on top of it, which is what it looks like in your 2nd pic. Unless I am looking at it wrong.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:The protector goes between the playfield and the black platic cover, not on top of it, which is what it looks like in your 2nd pic. Unless I am looking at it wrong. Here is what mine looks like finished.
20190519_170917 (resized).jpgQuoted from opt_prime:Thanks so much for taking the time to upload that photo - now it's extremely obvious how I should've installed it in the first place! I was elated to finally get it installed correctly, but wouldn't you know it - there is binding and it won't go all the way down. I guess this is where the work gets more serious.
Is the easiest / cleanest option to basically move the upper wooden playfield back a bit? I see some references to doing that, but I'm not seeing step-by-step guidance on doing that, which screws to deal with, etc. Sorry - it's probably painfully obvious I'm new to all of this after my first issue.
If that is the original mini pf, there is zero reason to elongate the bracket holes. I remember I had to loosen the post screws on the top of the mini pf to ensure a snug fit and it is perfect.
Quoted from pinballinreno:How is this wire routed properly?
Looks terrible on my game lol
Is this the right switch location?
Or even the right switch?
My game is a little rough, many missing or re-imagined parts.
Post a pic of how it's supposed to be done please.
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That is the playfield glass switch and goes into the lower cabinet. There are a few holes under the left plastic that it can be re routed.
20181231_175011 (resized).jpgQuoted from Rdoyle1978:That does look quite better.
The whomobile was such an odd choice for an accessory in this game - it’s only in 1 season basically. There were SO many other choices that could have been made!
I agree, this little blank plastic with a sticker was a way to cut costs, just like eliminating the moving dalke topper. I like the whomobile mod.
Quoted from gunstarhero:Eh, looks better than an exposed switch, which I assume would really have cut the cost.
of course, that is how I recieved my game, missing parts, looking crappy.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Mini playfield shortened 2mm.
Mylar applied.
I made a paper template from my original, then cut a plywood template out of 1/8" hobby plywood.
Cut it on a self repairing mat.
New exacto blades are a must but there are still problems.
I'm going to get a burning tool and a piece of glass for future mylars.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I would have elongated the bracket holes before I cut the MPF, especially if it was the original MPF.
Quoted from pinballinreno:It's a CPR silver repro.
They are oddly a little long on the front edge.
I wanted to have the holes better line up without reworking more stuff.
It's only like a 1 8mm difference.
It's a quick and easy adjustment on my sander.
I literally took less than a minute.
Plus I wanted to true up the edge a little for the cliffy install later on.
They take up 1mm.
I might still have to rework the bracket for this.
We'll see in a couple days.
The mylar installation took me 1 hour. Lol
Okay, that is good to know it is a repro. Glad you are using a sander and not a table saw too. The time expander is easy, follow Faz's guide.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Thanks!
The repro mini playfields dont come with mylar.
I think in this case necessary.
Lots of bouncing, ball ejects and traffic there.
I have never seen the time expander work lol.
It was missing quite a few parts and basically taped together and disabled with a stripped gearbox.
I'm getting close to final assembly !
Maybe it will rise and work first try?
Next we will see if the wiring in the cabinet has been hacked uip lol.
Mine was a hack job too. I repinned so many connectors and bought many new parts,so I feel the pain
Quoted from pinballinreno:Didnt have a fancy t-nut setting tool set up.
Put a leg bolt in my drill press and used the press function of it.
Worked surprisingly well.[quoted image][quoted image]
Buy an Arbor Press, works better
Quoted from pinballinreno:Are there supposed to be spacers under the clear plastic line the other ramp?[quoted image]
No, It is 2 #6-32 machine screws and nuts. Then the whomobile goes over it and screwed in.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Thanks!
How does the switch look?
Looks ok
Quoted from pinballinreno:It the whomobile held on with sheet metal screws also?
Or more machine screws and nuts?
Panhead screws
This website has great picture references.
https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=Doctor+Who&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick
Quoted from pinballinreno:In the photo it looks like #6 or #8 pan head sheet metal screws hold on the whomobile on.
Thanks!
Marcospec has them under the Dr. Who parts section
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have an issue with the playfield scraping/gouging the sidewall.
Is this gate installed correctly?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Move the gate, it has some wiggle room.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Try bending it slightly in. I think it’s the wire that causes the damage.
My DW is in Ohio right now. Man, wth, do we have the same exact collection? Lol
Don't bend it. Lift the playfield up and loosen the screws and move it inward. problem solved.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Kevlar rings come in the kit for the time expander.
I'm leaving them off for now.
Curiously there are no shooter lane protectors in my full kit.
Should I contact cliff? Or are they separate? I paid $104 for the kit.
They are carbon fiber, not kevlar. Carbon fiber holds up better. I spoke directly to Cliffy on why he is changing to carbon fiber.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:And what did he say?
I stated why he changed
Quoted from pinballinreno:I think I found the gouge problem source.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The upper right is very low.
So it sits crooked and tilted to the right.
I ordered new pivot nuts and playfield mounts.
If it's still not level, I can add a shim or fender washers under the right mount.
A common problem. Shims are recommended. I had to add them to my game. Almost a half inch. Prior user removed pivot bolts and ruined the hole.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Was it “because it holds up better”? I was confused by the wording
Yes, Cliffy said that the stainless was "breaking" down faster than anticipated, so Carbon Fiber was the better option. Sorry fot ot being clear on that.
Quoted from pinballinreno:My bolts look worn out but still tight in the cabinet at least lol.
My bolts were tight, but when the playfield was down, I was able to lift up and close up the gap, which was odd to me. So installed new pivot nuts and bolt and still the same gap. Therefore, Shims under the pivot nut bracket. If you do put washers or some hime made shims, it is best to have a helper. I fabricated my shims so they would slide over the machine screws.
Quoted from GAP:Just redecaled a Dr Who this weekend.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks good, but the door needs to be blue. Here is my door painted blue.
20190523_124850 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:I really like that color!
What color blue is it?
Oxford Blue
Quoted from pinballinreno:I'm thinking of doing the siderails and lockdown bar in oxford (tardis) blue.
Too much?
I say yes, The chrome balances the game, but if you have old pieces, give it a try. I did the coin door, bilt head and head plates to cabinet in blue
Quoted from pinballinreno:Little shop of games had some NOS. I bought a pair, they look ok to me.
They also had nos standup target stickers.
Now, where to get the standups A-15330-4 and the little single one on the right?
The time expander red standup is not available do I got a couple regular ones and modified the bottom a bit. Seems to work for now.
Marco sells the single standup sticker on the right. I bought some NOS left standup stickers off Ebay, they are really nice.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Thanks!
I got the stickers but was thinking of replacing all of the standup target switches themselves, mine are pretty beat.
Oh oh, nah, just put new stickers on them. it is a PIA to replace them
Quoted from pinballinreno:Back to the crooked playfield.
Cab bolts are perfect.
Pivot nuts replaced, they were worn.
Playfield mounts are replaced.
Playfield is twisted 1/2" or more.
Upper right corner is low 1/4"
The problem is that the time expander hangs behind the playfield mounts and The 3 pop bumpers hang in the upper right corner.
This has caused a bend.
The playfield is somewhat unsupported in the rear third.
I think reese rails will stiffen it up a lot.
I added a 1/8" shim under the right mounting bracket.
This lowered the left corner and raised the right corner.
The 1/4" drop of the upper right corner is solved for now.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You can see that the hole for the pivot nut and screw is worn on the inside, causing the tilt. Mine was similar and I see you used my shim idea, nice job
Need a memeber to look at their game andnsee where connector J132 from the power driver board goes too. I am missing the entire connector. The schematic shows it goes to the back box for some insert flashers.
Thanks,
Ken
Quoted from pinballinreno:Too bad I just pulled all my harnesses, or id check it.
I remember labeling the connector...?
Does it go to the little harness on the playfield backstop right corner, there are 2 flashers there behind the big square plastic transmat sign.
Im not sure, I never thought to look there.
Quoted from Catch86:Nothing on J132 on mine.[quoted image]
Thank You. I wonder why this plug is empty, yet it shows on the schematic. I was pulling my hair out.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Ended up moving the left bracket about 5/32".
This did 2 things.
1) The playfield now pivots smoothly and cleanly, it no longer scrapes the sides.
2) the playfield no longer has to be forced onto the front hanger slots by pushing it sideways in the front.
Doing this causes the pivot to ride the left mount more rearward, raising it higher relative to the right bracket. The bracket has a slope built into it.
Pulling the playfield forward raises its height.
This caused the playfield to be higher on the left about 1/8".
The shim I added on the right is now removed.
Glad to read you fixed yours. Helpful information.
Quoted from pinballinreno:My brackets ended up about 9 7/16" from the edge.
Next time you raise the playfield it would be interesting to know if yours or all doctor who games are out of alignment.
Rdoyle1978 has stated that a very many games are scraped on the right side. Its possible that this is an issue with a lot of them.
Mine was misaligned from the factory. It's always been canted to the right and scraped the sides it seems.
I'm scraping white wood putty out of the deep notch in the cab side, ill replace it with bondo or half time.
So, a factory f#ck up....
I will be checking after next week when I return from Vacation.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Cabinet work started.
Its 1/8" out of square.
Probably ok.
Front corner was blown out.
The other corners are surprisingly tight.
A little glue and a few clamps.
The ryobi brad nailer for $99 works perfectly. 2" brads for the sides, 1" for the blocks.
A little bondo to fill voids.
Used a skill saw to cut gussets out or a piece of 2x4.
Sanded them to shape on a belt sander.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Are you just using the wood block in the corner or are you adding a metal leg bracket?
Quoted from wlf_:found this at the flea market today, exterminate![quoted image]
Awesome. Please scan that so I can make my own sticker.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Dinner from my garden
Grilled zucchini and eggplant.
Chicken sandwiches etc...
[quoted image]
What the heck...is this Instagram now lol
Quoted from bbaker2824:Found this old pic of when I just finished the cabinet. Went with black powder coat. Think blue might look better in hind sight.[quoted image]
Black is a nice touch, as it plays well against the cab decals. I know, for me, I just painted my coin door and the bolts and hinges oxford blue, as I like the way the chrome of the siderails, legs and lockdown bar look. All of the De. Who's that I have seen with different color schemes look amazing to me.
Quoted from topkat:It looks like it’s the small board and servo. I will check both Thanks
Buy the heavier duty servo with metal gears. Mine had the cheap plastic gear servi and it lasted maybe 2 months.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Thanks for all the pics. I've got enough odd ball stuff around here to make something work.
Now, it's getting the time expander to go up and down correctly. Lots of worn parts on this game.
I have an extra bushing I made at work out of Delrin material. If you want it PM me and I will ship it to ya no charge.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Door is done.
I have new ones but I thought this one could be saved.
It was pretty bad.
Dented in and pried open a bit.
Missing the coin slots and reject buttons etc..
I can pound on it a bit more, but I think its ok for now.
Paint was via Mr Bryan Kelly technique, works perfectly.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge Bryan.
Looks pretty close to factory as far as finish.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Lock is a little long but I have a box of them to use up. I just put a little bend in the hasp.
It would have been nice to see that door painted tardis blue instead of black. All the new decals and that Black door just looks so darn arghhhhh....Not my game, just my 2 cents. Great job on the resto.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:You could just buy this also.
ebay.com link » Bally Dr Who Pinball Machine Time Expander Opto Fix
I recently used it on a game and it worked perfectly.
I bought it and works great.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Working in the pretzel of warps on my playfield.
The right edge that has the short wooden siderail is a problem.
There is just no support for the pop bumpers and the weight of the time expander.
This causes a droop in the right upper corner.
Easily fixed with a new playfield that is non-existant ☹.
So. I'm inclined to add a support on the right edge.
I'm thinking a 1/2" stainless corner brace like for tile edging.
The upper right posts will shore it up with very little reworking.
I'll post what I come up with.
Shim the playfield pivot bracket. That droop will go away. I did this to mine and the droop went away.
Quoted from pinballinreno:No steel support. It can be added later if need be.
Reese rails next month when they get back to work.
Reverse bending, a little heat with a hair dryer only, NOT HOT!
Just about 130 degrees F over a large area of the center, Kinda diagonally where it looked tight?
For about 90 mins.
Followed with dry Terry cloth towels out of the 6 degree freezer.
Shim still in via eyeamred2u recommendation, thanks! Your experience paid off.
Twist is drastically reduced.
I hope it stays.
Right now it looks a close as they come from the factory.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I know the shim is not the best approach, it it has held up quite well on my game.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have a full set of cliffys.
I'm unclear as to shooter lane protection.
Can you or someone post a picture of shooter lane cliffys in doctor who?
I don't see any shooter lane guards in my full kit, that I recognise.
It is the ball eject to shooter lane protector. Cliffy makes it.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/balleject/ShonDrWhoEJ1.jpg
Quoted from pinballinreno:Got the posts and flatrails done.
Chris hibler should send my poor hacked boards back soon.
I really want reese rails for this game. My timing is poor I guess
As soon as I needed them he went on a much needed an much deserved vacation...LOL !
I can install them later, if I can get them.
NOS lane guides from marco. They are pretty warped but the colors are good.[quoted image][quoted image]
How come you did not repair the Damage at the front of the time expander. Cliffy's will cover it, but I would have put some filler in those divots.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I'm also putting back in the lightning flipper bats.
It came with standard bats but you get a little more power off the coils with slightly shorter bats.
The 1/8" seems like a lot shorter, but the game came with lightning flippers.
1/4" increase in flipper gap should be challenging lol.
I can always change them if it's too hard to play.
Has anyone else put in the lightning flippers?
I did, had broken flippers on mine when I got it. Now it plays perfectly.
20190523_124940 (resized).jpgQuoted from Rdoyle1978:I’m confused - this game came factory with Lightning flippers. Do you mean it had regular flippers at first and you replaced them?
The operators changed them, so I put it back to original Lightning Flippers. The upoer left is a standard flipper bat.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Thankyou so much for the playfield picture!
Pinside is amazing!
I didnt take any overview shots.
I started by doing a simple shop and wax. There was so much damage and nonsense going on, I had to do a complete restoration.
You just saved me hours if work!
And, I like the black flipper rubber now...
In the picture your flippers are adjusted up from the alignment holes.
Is that a gameplay afjustment to make it play better?
I put a toothpick in the holes to set my adjustment stop.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Toothpick, Allen wrench etc goes between the rubber and the bat then in the hole.
Yours look high from how it looks in the picture.
Just the camera angle, they are dead on when a toothpick is inserted.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Sorting out rubber colors and checking if all the posts are correctly placed. Per the maual.
I'm going with white rubber and cliffy urethane post sleeves.I started with white rubber, then immediately went to black and Cliffy's colored post sleeves. White just looked silly to me. It may look amazing on yours, can't wait to see the game
Quoted from pinballinreno:Sorting out rubber colors and checking if all the posts are correctly placed. Per the maual.
I'm going with white rubber and cliffy urethane post sleeves.
I have to see what black flipper rubber I have in stock...
Time expander cliffy added.
I had to elongate to mounting holes 1/8" towards the rear to get it to fit correctly.
[quoted image]
This star post look like it was installed at the factory from the playfield fade.
Manual shows it as a white "I" post.
I'm leaving it, looks like a better support.
[quoted image]
I started with white rubber, then immediately went to black and Cliffy's colored post sleeves. White just looked silly to me. It may look amazing on yours, can't wait to see the game fully finished.
Quoted from gunstarhero:White rubber always looks better IMO. Black just looks too dark.
With Titan rings tho, man it’s hard not to do translucent. I didn’t think I’d like that look but I’ve done it on a couple machines now and I think it looks great.
It always comes down to personal choice. I want to see DW done up with Titans amd Cliffy posts.
Quoted from gunstarhero:I’ve done the posts and the flippers on mine but the white rubber was still good enough not to have to swap yet.[quoted image]
Looks great! Gonna have to snap a few pics of mine and compare.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I’m a little perplexed at the small number of mods for this game too. But I guess once you have the Tardis and a Dalek what else really is there
The mods are there. The whomobile was remade, and could have lights added to it.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I found the decal here.
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/dr-who-expander-decal.html
I have a super clean scan of the time expander decal, I scanned an original. I printed all my own decals for Doctor Who. I can send it to you if you want to make your own decals. I also have the decals for drop targets and the time expander metal shroud.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I think I got them from you!
I'm going to see if my sign guy can make good prints from them.
Coming up. Gotta get there first lol.
I'm also copying the ramp decal set that came with my ramps for future spares.
None seem to be available separately.
The ramp decals are the only ones I am missing. If you scan them, please send me the files.
Quoted from DudeRegular:Ok guys, I picked up a Doctor Who and had a chance to take a quick look last night. The game is a reimport. Still has all incandescent bulbs.
When I checked it out with the seller the enter button on the coin door stopped working which prevented me from doing any testing. One of the batteries had leaked a bit. It looks like that is likely the cause of most of the issues. The seller was having it reset on double flips. Hopefully I can clean the MPU up and get her functional. It was flipping at the sellers but now I get pinballs missing on the display.
Playfield is pretty good overall. No bare wood that I can see so far. Novus 2 cleaned up a bunch of the gunk. Cabinet is pretty good too, faded on from and right but still looks good. Dmd has a the bottom two rows and the right two columns out. I plan to clean her up and put LEDs in it. I was thinking warm white or sunlight comets for the GI. What are you guys running?
I ordered one of the kahr daughter boards as well. Not sure I will need that but ordered it when I thought it was likely the 5v reset issue.
One spot on the playfield I wanted to get some input on is right above the flippers where the trapezoidish piece of mylar is. It looks like it's just the mylar getting boogered up and which was touched up. Thoughts on removing it? Would hate to find serious wear underneath though.
Looking forward to getting this game up and running again and joining the club.[quoted image]
That is a bad touchouch job if I ever saw one.
Almost looks like a bad sticker decal in some spots.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Most Doctor Who games are pretty rough or suffer from corrosion or both.
Typical repairs needed:
Rebuild the power supply board.
Rebuild AC power box with new line filter varistor and thermistor. Add in the removed service outlet, add in 8 amp fuse.
The area below flippers looks like wear thru the clearcoat that has been touched up, sand it flat apply thin mylar over the area for now.
The whole playfield should be sanded, touched up and re-cleared at a later date.
Replace display with colorLED.
Send CPU board in for rebuild/repair.
Check GI connector on driver board and replace with trifurcon. Re-Cap driver board with cap kit.
Install regular 2SMD frosted sunlight LEDs throughout.
Use 5SMD towers for the 906 bulbs.
Install LEDOCD board.
Rebuild time expander.
Re-decal cabinet.
These few items should make the game last for years to come.
Do not install high end options unless u really want this game. Get it running first, then assess the longevity.
Quoted from dwightheinink:Thanks guys, when i got the pin at home i'll send some pics
Buy Ulf's Linear Rail kit to upgrade the Mini Playfield.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Ulf’s kit is REALLY well made - I do however think it is important to go through Faz’s guide so that you really really understand how the MPF works. Ulf’s kit won’t help you if something else goes wrong on the MPF
Motor/Gearbox would be the only big issue. Ulf's kit fixes the slop from a worn main bracket assembly and rollers. It just makes sense to replace the opto boards too and buy the upgraded motor board Ulf was testing.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I'm rebuilding the pop bumpers.
Lots of worn out parts:[quoted image]
Thoae parts look good to me! LMAO
Quoted from pinballinreno:Pop bumper led test.
I think the lighted cover puts out just about the perfect brightness.
And the frosted bodies glow really good without being a huge distraction.
My goal was to add light to the area without going crazy.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I may have chosen orange for the body and yellow for the platters. Clear bodies make it almost too bright, but if you like it, that is all that matters. Looking very nice so far!!
Quoted from pinballinreno:I'll take mine off and post the measurements.
I was taking it off to paint the bracket anyway!
Thank You.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Thus should be really easy to make out of 1/20" or 1/16" scrap:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The switch mounting hole on the right is slotted for adjustment.
Thank you. I already have the material, just needed hole to hole spacing. How long is the blade on the switch?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Not Tardis blue ?!?!
Where did you get the serial number stickers?
Inkochnito can give you a template or if you provide info he can make them and you can print them yourself
Quoted from Turboghia:So I removed my Time Expander and in the process of unplugging the connectors I pulled a wire out of one of the smaller connectors. It’s the one that powers the lamps on the cover (4 pin connector). Does anyone know the size those terminal plugs are? There are two sizes of connector pins and the one I need to replace is the smaller pin diameter
Larger pins are usually .093 and smaller can be .062 pins
Quoted from pinballinreno:MPF probably needs a complete refresh. New motor, optos and adjustment.
Put the game in test mode and run the MPF up and down. Check for slop in the main assembly. Replace optos and clean the assembly unit. Motor/gear box are usually ok. If ya have the extra money, buy the motor/gear box.
Quoted from DudeRegular:Ok cool thanks for the input. I wasn't able to test the MPF previously as the coin door controls weren't functioning properly (MPU problems). Once I saw it was working, I went straight into play the game mode I am planning one doing a teardown to clean it up and put in new lights and fix up problems it may have. Is the time expander opto fix (ebay link just above my post) a recommended add-on or only to fix a specific issue?
It is a solid fix! Worth the money and the opto cover as well
Quoted from pinballinreno:This metal wire is responsible for cabinet gouging.
[quoted image]
It basically sticks out 1/4" past the playfield.
Tap it with a hammer to locate it on the wooden siderail.
Drill a 1/16" hole at a slight angle about 5/16" deep that somewhat matches the wire angle.
Put a drop of titebond on the wire.
Stuff it into the hole you made.
Now it sits fairly flush and no more gouging of the cabinet wall.
To be fair, the sagging playfield conteibuted quite a bit to the gouge. I did have to adjust that bracket.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Hammermill 32lb gloss laser paper.
Canon image pass color laser.
3mil mylar laminate.
I'm working on brightening the colors slightly. Maybe lol
Give me a day or two and I will re work the image.
Quoted from pinballinreno:That would be Awesome !
email it to me. Please.
I will. I just scanned a promo Tardis sticker. I have a bumper sticker I am gonna do next.
Quoted from yellowghost:How thick is that Hammermill stuff? All the doctor who I have seen seam to have a problem. The original decals peel around the edges. I guess they are too thick or the adhesive is not strong enough to make them stick to round surface. Maybe it would look better if they were resized to only fit the flat areas? Is that possible?
I use Papilio vinyl paper that is 3 MIL thick. Poor adhesion, lack of glue and old age did in these labels.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Hammermill 32lb gloss laser paper.
Canon image pass color laser printer.
3mil crystal clear adhesive mylar laminate.
3m 467mp adhesive applied to stickers for mounting.
Print, stick on the laminate, stick on the glue-tape.
Trim and peel off the backing to apply.
Pretty easy and durable results.
Edges seem to stay down really well.
I refuse to use 3m tape. The vinyl paper is already peel n stick.
Quoted from yellowghost:Does this also need to be lamanated afterwards? Could you upload a picture of something you have printed with this paper?
yes ,I cover it with UV resistant mylar film. Here are my custom whomobile decals
20190419_090909 (resized).jpg20190419_091851 (resized).jpgQuoted from Rdoyle1978:Wow those look really good! Now if you could just get to work on the gawdawful whomobile covers themselves!
Lol...I had a few ideas
Quoted from yellowghost:Looks good.Are the paper standard size? I need to reproduce the two decals over the "repair" targets. They are well over 12 inches.
Papilio sells paper in larger sizes.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:So is there a complete set of decals now scanned? I would love to do a retheme or at least a “re-color” of the game and make it a bit less of the yellow/orange. The original art is fine but this is something I’ve wanted to do for a while, and include more doctors eventually
No. The ramps decals are not available, but most of the other are.
Quoted from pinballinreno:My time expander is a little clunky and does wobble a little.
It doesnt do this on the workbench. It's pretty smooth.
It has all new parts and had no binding during assembly.
I'm not adverse to pulling it apart.
It's probably time for some fine tuning now that all the difficult game errors are gone.
What would cause this?
What are common areas to look at?
The inside of the assembly is usually worn uneven, due to lack of lubrication and maintenance. Even replacing the bearing rollers will still not fix the uneven effect.
Quoted from pinballinreno:This is good to know.
I did replace the rollers and the main bracket. It had huge wear areas like it was routed out by a machinist lol.
The inner bracket is original.
I'll take a look at it more when I sort out the opto assembly in a few days.
Thanks!
Those worn areas make the up and down motion more wobbly, plus the original deaign is awful. If you can buy Ulf's linear kit, I suggest it. Mine is so smooth now with is kit.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I think I will get Ulf's kit.
I'm not impressed with the original mech now that it's up and running.
I just want to know how durable and trouble free it is after a few thousand games.
Did u put a new motor/gearbox in? I know his friend is working on a new bidirectional motor board with great new features.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Wow! That's dead on perfect!
I'm looking forward to getting it.
I was playing with the rounded corner tool in GIMP, its way cool.
Now, how to get my printer to match the screen...it can be way off.
A single hole, hole-punch makes the perfect sized hole on this.
I'm thinking about escape target stickers. There's got to be a cool idea out there.
The PDI ones are ok. A bit over priced but just ok.
Thanks, next is the WHO ramp, I need to clean the white areas up a bit. I want nice decals for everyone.
Quoted from yellowghost:Awesome.
You reckon you can re-produce the two stickers over the "repair" droptargets?
I know someone else in this group was working on a few of the larger ramp decals but have not heard from them lately. If someone can snap pics of them, I can work on them.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Easy to do, but one has to have a 11 x 17 scanner/printer.
It might be possible to cut the images in half so that regular printers can make an acceptable sticker for the longer ones.
The larger one need to go to a printer service, unless your printer can do roll feed
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yep.
But if the artwork was reworked in halves, I think it would look the same after the stickers are applied.
The cut seams would be neglegible or 1/8" overlap, and could be printed on one sheet.
Cut by hand or cameo/silhouette machine.
Then anyone could print it.
I know, its a lot of photo work...
I would not do a half sticker. Just my opinion.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I played a test game last night.
The balls now lock perfectly on the MPF.
The balls release one at a time as expected.
Question:
Is the music supposed to change when the balls are released from the MPF? The music and everything seems to the same as in single ball play.
There seems to be no indication that Im in a multiball when the balls are released.
Im using the rdoyle1978 enhanced modern mix on pinsound.
Yes, the Dalek goes crazy and starts a crazy wind sound
Quoted from pinballinreno:This is definitely not happening.
Im at a bit of a disadvantage here. I dont have an original sound card to compare anything to.
Ill try some of the other mixes and see if they do something different thanks.
How do I test the 4 bulb topper light? The dalek flasher works perfectly, the little 4 bulb board tests out perfectly on my bench.
It doesnt light in all lamp test. Is is tied to a voice call out?
I believe those are tied to a special solenoids if I remember. I have a moving Dalek topper, so my setup is different now
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:What do those lights even do? I seem to recall they just stay on to light the Dalek
The lights are on in attract mode, and I believe during gameplay as well
Who has a nice Apron on their Doctor Who? I want to make Apron Decal Stickers and need some pics.
Thanks,
Ken
Quoted from pinballinreno:Let me look at mine.
However:
Treasure cove has some apron stickers. I really dont need to paint my apron yet. But was thinking of getting a set.
Has anyone bought these?
I will visit Treasure Cove
Quoted from DudeRegular:Not sure if this is what you need or not[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Yes, can't seem to find them already made.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Stiffeners to keep the bracket from squashing when the scoop assembly is bolted down are important.
Also I think shrouds could be molded into the plastic for the optos.
I ended up adding 2 wooden squares around the middle switch to keep it from crushing down.
I also ended up adding a piece of shrink tube around the optos that didn't work to act as a shroud.
I got the idea from another pinsider who used a piece of drinking straw.
This worked well enough to solve my problem after careful trimming.
The led has to protrude about 1.5mm.
The gulf stream version of the opto boards I purchased had the longer LEDs.
Oddly this only affected the receiver side.
This is on a brand new bracket.
The 5 layers of electrical tape i added to the receiver side did 2 things.
1) added padding so that the reciever board lays flat and doesnt tilt randomly when the screws are tightened.
2) added the right amount of spacing so that the optos have good clearance from the e-clips.
Washers are difficult to install and are no longer needed.
I used electrical tape at first to wrap my opto carrier, then decided to go with the insert on Ebay. It is ice but cracked when inserted into my original carrier. I will get Swinks's upgrade once he makes an all innone version. 2 pieces is just way too much.
Great Job on the restoration!! I will be starting T2 here shortly. Just had the gun re- chromed. He'll be back!!! Lol
Quoted from pinballinreno:Game made it to its destination today:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
pinballgoddess absolutely loves it! I've never seen her so happy about a game. Well it "is" Doctor Who...lol
The game plays like a dream!
Looks good amongst those newer games. My collection will be there again..ugh Divorce claimed my last collection.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:That is absolutely, bar none the best DW I have ever seen.
Only cost as much as a new game, but hey, it is only Money LMAO
Quoted from Jawa:I have a time expander / mini playfield question. I was having issues with the time expander binding when raising, so I replaced the motor and gearbox and cleaned and rebuilt it following faz's guide.
It runs fine off of a 9 volt battery, raises and lowers fine on boot up, functions correctly in game but every time I run the mini playfield test I get faults.
This is a route game that I'm trying to get ready to go back out until I get the new lifter kit (I'm still down the list a ways), any one have any idea what to check?
Could be bad optos, but need more info on faults
Quoted from ClarkKent:Does anybody have the right plastic ramp decals and is able to scan them?
Which one? The top side or the whomobile underneath?
20190521_154116 (resized).jpgQuoted from gunstarhero:[quoted image]
dsuperbee‘s Time Expander light mod installed!
Let's get an instruction posted with many many details, like Faz's guide.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I'm still struggling with the "M" opto on the time expander.
It was problematic when I built it.
Still problematic now.
It works, then fails. Then works again! Test shows its non-interrupted.
It's always on and has a hard time breaking the beam unless it's set just right.
But then after a day or so, it's ok.
I'm thinking of putting a shrink tube shroud around the transmitter led to limit its scope.
Sounds like a bad LED opto. Maybe clean the opto, could have oil residue on it, from fingerprints.
Quoted from Elevatorman:I replaced every opto transmitter and reciever when i refurbished my Doctor Who. Its been great[quoted image]
Noooo, not yellow!!!!
Quoted from ClarkKent:Then please at least a high res photo.
I remade the whomobile decal. Here is my work installed on my game.
20190419_090909 (resized).jpg20190419_091851 (resized).jpg20190419_092030 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:Those are really nice!
Thanks. I can email the file to print or view.just pm me
Quoted from ClarkKent:I need the rampdecal with the whomobile, the one under the ramp
I have not tried to make this decal
20190521_154116 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:I'm going to add a variac to the doctor who tonight and isolate it from the coke machine.
The other games are newer and unaffected by the coke machine compressor.
I do have pindorabox opto boards coming in the mail in a couple weeks.
I'll probably install those to see if there is a difference.
I'm also interested in swinks new opto carrier. It looks like a really good replacement for the factory one.
My concern is that a 3d printed opto carrier would have no "give".
Its possible that the opto boards would get crushed or short, if the scoop assembly presses on them too firmly.
Why would you need "give" for the opto carrier. Swinks' version now eliminates light bleeding and the warping from the original. Having any play is what caused so so many issues on this game. My original carrier was extremely warped, mushroom targets would stick, optos were intermittent and the position on the MPF was problematic.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I put my game on a 2000w variac.
The phantom switch errors are mostly gone.
I can flip all 3 flippers 50 times in a row with maybe 1 switch closure!
This is awesome!
Next I'm going to install the pindorabox boards and the new improved swinks opto Carrier in black.
I imagine it will bullet-proof this annoying problem.[quoted image]
What is the actual voltage at that outlet? Anytbing more than +/- 5% could be concern. Also, what is the actual votage with all others unplugged on that circuit and does the phantom issue appear with no other Load on the circuit. May still have an issue with your boards, even if they were " repaired". Unless all caps were replaced and transistors, the voltage swing may be on your power driver board. Just food for thought here, you seem to be doing a good job of narrowing it down.
Have a Doctor Who that has some reversing going with the Doctors and the Mushroom targets. Anyone seen this before where targets light the opposite row and the Doctors when selected, except Doctor 4, are opposite. CPU Rom is L1
Quoted from pinballinreno:Are the flippers left and right correct in test?
Maybe wired reversed on the fliptronics connector board.
Something in flippers is reversed obviously.
I had my MPF locks backwards.
Mushroom targets are plugged into the CPU board j1 or j2 something like that.
See if they are on the right connector or reversed
Transmitters are on one connector recievers on the other.
I was just thinking the same thing, will check all connectors. Good starting point
Quoted from pinballinreno:It looks like the light block is reversed from the DMD.
I dont think its flippers any more.
More like the 7 doctor lights are installed upside down.
Usually something simple like that.
Yep, that was it. Ocums Razor moment. Thank you for the help.
Here is an odd issue. When game is in Attract mode, the VUK under the Tardis starts to fire, first slowly, then repeats. I am wondering if I have an opto issue or loose connection? Any thoughts? Have not had it happen or heard it during gameplay, bit that's not to say it did and I just didn't hear it.
Ken
Quoted from pinballinreno:Every so many loops (like 3 or 5 maybe) or if you make one ramp, then the other a couple times, the door goes down to feed to the left flipper on my game.
Or if you spell W-H-O to light the extra ball lights?
Ok, that is what I thought. I have spelled W-H-O and the ramp did not close, so I was kinda confused.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I had that happen.
Its doing a ball search.
It thinks there's a ball on the vuk.
Or the opto is blocked slightly, or bad.
Or missing ball.
Test it with a ball in switch test.
Also observe if plungers are pumping in the locks in the MPF.
If all 3 vuk's are firing, its doing a ball search. You just cant hear the MPF ones. They're pretty quiet.
A bad trough switch will cause this.
Almost always trough ball 1.
Make sure you have the right plunger in the vuk.
Mine was made out of old spare parts from assorted games and blocked the opto.
Pinball heaven had the correct plunger, end cap and nut. Marco had everything but the plunger.
Lastly, it could be a bad opto board.
But that's easy to diagnose in test.
I replaced mine as it had many hacks and repairs in it life and was ruined.
Thanks, I will test as you outlined.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Thanks, I will test as you outlined.
The wireform was slightly bent, breaking the opto, very weird.
Now I have MPF issue where SW 72 and 75 don't register. Brand new opto boards boards, very frustrated now. Going to check the main opto board tomorrow.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Pulling the MPF out and removing the opto carrier from it is the only way to work on it.
Put the game in switch test and plug the 12 pin connector in "live" under the playfield.
It wont blow anything up.
I hate this unit with a passion.
Faz's guide helps a lot but doesn't address aftermarket opto boards and how crappy they are.
Do you have original opto boards or gulf stream ones?
I have many times thought I had a bad opto.
However in fact the optos are so tricky and sensitive they only work well if they are perfectly aligned with their corresponding transmitter or reciever.
This is mostly impossible if the opto carrier is twisted, bent, crushed or mis-shapened in any way.
The piece of crap should have been made way more rigid or out of steel or aluminum.
Gentle nudges of the opto's can get them working if they are slightly out of alignment.
Twisting the opto board works well also.
This is accomplished by adding a layer if electrical tape or gorilla tape on one edge or the other of the opto carrier.
Sometimes along the whole length with an extra bit near an offending opto.
I have 2 or 3 layers of electrical tape across the receiver side to compensate for the incorrect led length.
This along with additional edge pieces to get it flat.
Still after a few days it warps and an opto starts acting up.
Solder lumps on the bottom of the opto board makes the board twist after its screwed down. Try to remove them if they are an issue.
Trust me, I have had it out, rebuilt with new boards, and I believe the aftermarket boards are garbage. I will bench test them and I am going to rebuild the originals. Worked fine and then optos start acting weird.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I ordered swinks new carrier it will be here next week.
I'm optimistic that it will solve many problems.
I'm also installing pindorabox opto boards.
I have 2 sets of brand new gulf stream boards.
They are both very tricky and keep changing after a few days.
I also ordered swinks carrier. I have the gulf stream boards and I feel as if they have major issues with voltage drop on the IR emitter, which is why they either fail early or do not work correctly or another issue related to poor board design or etching
Quoted from yellowghost:Afterevery thing gets sorted out, I reckon you will have a brand new machine.
His machine is gorgeous.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I need to pull mine out to check over the unit and I'm sure I could find IR LEDs that would work. Does any have the dimensions of the originals?
I have my original opto boards, I will measure. I am sure they will not be taller than 5mm
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I need to pull mine out to check over the unit and I'm sure I could find IR LEDs that would work. Does any have the dimensions of the originals?
The height of my originals are almost 9mm for the emitters and 7mm for the receiver. The base is a standared size
How did you bench test your MPF when you had opto issues? I am removeing mine and have a power supply, just curious as to where you ran the power to test the opto boards?
Thanks Ken
Quoted from pinballinreno:A really interesting test was to plug the loose, wired opto boards in the 12 pin connector on the game "live".
You can then butterfly them as shown in faz's guide and see the transmitters running.
Then you can rub the boards together, transmitter to receiver while in edge test.
You can even rub individual transmitter LEDs onto any of the reciever leds..
This is interesting as it shows that some are weaker than others.
Sure enough the weak pairs are also weak when assembled.
I'm beginning to hate the gulf stream boards.
Very inconsistant, always 1 of the 5 is weak in my case.
On one set its the M opto.
On the other it the L1 opto.
I'll run similar tests on the pindorabox boards.
My swinks opto carrier will be here Tuesday possibly.
I found a good post as reference. I have solid continuity fron CPU to all connectors. Will need to see what these garbage boards are really doing.
Quoted from pinballinreno:It has really pissed me off that's for sure.
Visually I confirmed that some transmitters dont shoot straight compared to the others.
That's why bending them helps a little.
I had to bend the IR's to align them to the wavy opto carrier I have, ugh. May ise heat gun and clamps to straighten it out more. Then I tracked down bad connectors at J206 and J208. Gonna repin those and then when Swinks opto carrier arrives, hopefully all problems gone. I am gonna use small washer to lift boards off opto carrier, so target stem and e-clips don't shave the IR's
Quoted from pinballinreno:It's better to use 3 layers of electrical tape, covering the whole width and length, on the reciever side than washers.
It's just the right thickness and barely gets compressed by the scoop assembly.
Cut holes with exacto knife.
Also remove any solder off the bottom of the board that might tilt it.
I have done all of this. Still it changes...
Works good one day and like crap on another.
Ok, wasn't sure on the washers. No solder on any pads, I am anal about sloppy soldering work.
Quoted from pinballinreno:My MPF optos seem to change with the weather/temperature lol.
They were working like crap.
Flickering, pulsing when flippers activated and constantly loading up the factors to max.
Then for 2 days the game was perfect!
Slowly the optos started acting up and now they are back to working like crap.
I'm positive it's the warping and twisting of the opto carrier due to temperature fluctuations.
Swinks carrier will be here Tuesday possibly.
I'll install it Wednesday and report back.
I believe the vibration in the game cause the IR's to move, since they have little holding them to their boards and that cause power drop and inconsitent beams
Quoted from pinballinreno:I can heat them up and push them down.
But then I couldn't bend them to get them to work.
However, I really shouldn't have to spend 2 hrs screwing with them either, just to get them functioning.
It's a double edged sword.
When I solder in the new IR's, I am leaving more of the leg attached, rhen i am drilling small divots into the old opto carrier to help the fitment.
So excited, Swinks new opto carrier has shipped! Can finally get this Doctor Who running 100%
-repaired faulty IR recievers on gulf stream boards and original boards
-Traced bad connections to Molex plugs to MPU, out all new pins and plug ends.
Next is the testing phase....To be concluded!!! Haha
Quoted from pinballinreno:Lol, it happens...
These days I need a headlamp magnifying glasses, work lights, a helper....etc...
Amen to that! I am sooo blind in my old age.
Swink's new opto carrier for MPF arrived today, minenis Blue, gonna look way better,putting it in now. Just an FYI, use some 2000 grit sandpaper to smooth the holes for the mushroom tatgets, mine were too tight. I wrapped my sandpaper around a drill bit and spun the carrier, presto bango, targets don't stick. I am adding small washers to only one side to lift board off the carrier so clips from mushroom targets do not bit IR LED's. Next is install and test.......
I now have an issue. SW 72 and SW 75 show closed in Switch Edge test. All others works as the should. I have good continuity on all wires and connectors. I am swapping my original opto boards in to see if anything changes...My opto interface board test 100%, no cracked headers and solid 12 volts. Any other advice here? MPU is brand New, Power Driver board is 100% tested and repaired.
Ok, after measuring the mushroom target stems, I have 2 that are longer, therefore already breaking the beam....arghhhh
Quoted from pinballinreno:Optos are really confusing but also simple.
They are either interrupted/not communicating.
Or they are constantly communicating/not interrupted.
If you cant interrupt an opto with a finger or piece of paper,
It's already interrupted, mis-aligned, blocked or broken.
If the interrupter wont block the light but a finger or piece of paper does,
You have a leak or the interrupter isnt blocking as it should.
In switch test all the opto squares should be lit.
They go dark when optos are interrupted/misaligned or broken.
The squares flicker if the opto is failing or light is leaking and causing the opto to connect and disconnect from its light.
Tiny light leaks can cause this or alignment issues.
There is no light leak, the new upgraded carrier has built in dividers to prevent light issues. I have corrected any misalignment. It is the mushroom target stem, too long. Have to shave a few mm off the end. My orginal board are far superior to the junk Gulf Stream Boards.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Ahhhhhh, I'll have to check my stem lengths when I rebuild it.
So, the long stems keep the opto always partially interrupted?
Nice find!
Its possible that the led is shooting crooked. I have seen this too.
I'm going with pandorabox boards, this next rebuild.
After that I'll try the great plains ones if it doesnt work properly, if I can get them.
I bought my IR led's from GPE and they are a solid fit with just a 1 mm washer under each board or whatever u want to raise the boards so the c-clips do not rub the IR LED's
I also made sure my LED's were flush on the boards and 90 degress to it.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Ahhhhhh, I'll have to check my stem lengths when I rebuild it.
So, the long stems keep the opto always partially interrupted?
Nice find!
Its possible that the led is shooting crooked. I have seen this too.
I'm going with pandorabox boards, this next rebuild.
After that I'll try the great plains ones if it doesnt work properly, if I can get them.
If you need IR LED's, I have plenty I can sell you.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I'm using layers of black tape along the whole length of the carrier, instead of washers, to keep the boards from tilting after the scoop is bolted down onto it.
I have had it absolutely perfect and then go to shit after it gets assembled.
Tape instead of washers somewhat solves this.
Shorter led recievers would be the best solution.
I could not source shorter IR LED's, I asked ED at GPE.
The new opto carrier is nice, the IR LED's sit perfectly in the carrier, but because of the longer length IR LED's, it renders the pocket useless for alignment. Swinks, if you are reading this, maybe this can be fixed in the design. I will snap a pic tomorrow to show this, when I take the MPF out, yet again
Swinks, Here are the measurement pics and measurements for the Gulf Stream boards
20191215_104613 (resized).jpg20191215_105502 (resized).jpg20191215_104638 (resized).jpg20191215_105409 (resized).jpg20191215_105551 (resized).jpg20191215_105622 (resized).jpg20191215_105657 (resized).jpg20191215_105821 (resized).jpg20191215_105900 (resized).jpg20191215_110006 (resized).jpg
20191215_143905 (resized).jpgSo here is what I have now. SW 72 is not registering, per switch edge test. I have attached pics, optos all work, voltages are good. I have the target removed and when I break the beam, nothing registers. Continuity is good all the way back to MPU connector J206/8. I am going to repin the connector points. Any other advice is appreciated.
20191215_110445 (resized).jpg20191215_111629 (resized).jpg20191215_111612 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:Pull the boards out of the carrier.
Check the emitters with cell phone camera to see if they all light up. Although I can see in the pictures that they are all lighted.
Put the game in switch test.
Plug the harness into the game "live".
Physically rub the 2 LED boards emitters and recievers together at varying angles and then separate, to see if you get a response on switch test.
Do the whole board, touch individuals, touch random sets, do them one by one, fiddle with it until you can verify that one or all of them work.
Place 1/2" bits of drinking straw or tube over the sets and check the test. All should be lit.
If a switch isn't lit in test, the beam is broken or not recieving.
Distance is a factor.
Some have to be really close to work, others do not.
Washers could be too thick.
Try the tape method.
I hate this unit....
I will try tape method next. Arghhhhhhhh
Quoted from pinballinreno:The problem emitter might be shooting crooked or the reciever is recieving at an angle internally.
I have visually verified that not all emitters shoot straight.
I am replacing the reciever as I believe it is bad, even though it lights up.
Quoted from pinballinreno:It could be the emitter shooting crooked.
If you cant get it to respond manually, out if the carrier, On any of the emitters, it's probably bad/cracked/unsoldered etc.
With a bit of drinking straw or shrink tube you can isolate and mismatch pairs to test individually.
Also try reseating the connector on the 10 opto board and smash the wires down on the idc connector.
I'm thinking of redoing this connector with trifurcons.
No luck. I tried straws. Solder is 100%, I am a pro. I get same result with original and gulfstream boards, so I have to move upstream to Opto Board. It may be one of the LM339 chips. I tested all diodes, resistors on the board, just need to confirm the logic now
Quoted from pinballinreno:By mismatching the pairs you can isolate exactly the problem emitter or reciever.
Does the problem emitter activate one of the other receivers?
Does the problem reciever work from a known good emitter etc?
Trace the wires from the faulty part if replacing doesnt fix it.
Already did that. I believe I have a bad LM339 on Optoboard.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Unplugging and plugging in live several times can clear up the game logic as far as stuck switch nonsense.
Upgraded the ROM chip to L2 and reset game. No luck. Gonna watch football and relax today. Thanks for all the help today.
Quoted from swinks:On the upgraded version at Shapeways I put 1mm shoulder lips around the IR LED holes and now changed that to 3mm on the lhs and 4.5mm on the rhs but stopped so when looking from above the large circle of the mushroom target / clip would not foul with these extensions but if you could confirm the diameter of the clip - that would help. I won't upload until I add the changes you guys reckon are needed.
[quoted image]
I would not adjust to 3mm.
Quoted from swinks:How far would you go or do think leave it as is. I would of thought the baffles in between each chamber performs the job of stopping light passing to a neighbouring LED.
Also thanks for the photos
Leave it alone. The baffles work perfectly.
The issue is modern IR LED's are longer than the originals. In my one pic, it clear that I had to use washers to raise the board. If you can add maybe 1-1.5 mm to the bottom, therefore washers would not be needed.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yeah, leave it alone for now.
I can add 3 layers of black tape to make up the needed adjustment.
Later if short LEDs are available I can take off the tape.
Shorter LED's will not happen.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I'm assembling my Swinks opto carrier right now.
Will post back with the result.
I hope it solves the nightmare. I am awaiting my LM339 chips to solve my issue.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I think that the black is necessary as it absorbs light.
Other colors might be problematic depending on the optos used.
It's really a nice unit. A tiny bit of sanding/polishing doesnt affect its worthiness, its really a good part.
Its lightyears ahead of the brand new carrier at marcospec.
A tiny bit of dressing is to be expected on this type of part.
Literally a tiny bit.
No material was removed, just a smoothing process.
We put another 20 games on it tonight.
So far its rock solid.
If it holds up over the next week, it's a permanent fix.
I have a feeling that this will hold up and be amazing!
I love this opto carrier!
Its the way the original part should have been made.
I have blue and light is not an issue. Also it looks so much better than black when it is in the game. Nice contrast to the game.
I am 110% satisfied with this new carrier. It definitely solves many problems. Hope more Doctors can be fixed with this carrier.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I do like the blue.
It looks cool.
Have mine in and working, minus 2 switches, 72 and 75, which I confirmed today to be bad LM339 chips on the Opto Board. Other than that, the game plays flawlessly, have the Dalek head moving, Ulf's Linear MPF system in place and this game is challenging and super fun.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Day 4, optos are still absolutely perfect.
My game goes thru temepature changes in the winter from 55 degrees to 72 degrees.
Winter can be cold here.
This was causing major changes in the factory opto carrier.
The swinks carrier is thermally stable.
It never warps or alters.
Im calling my game,completely fixed and perfect.
Without the swinks carrier my opto nightmare would go on forever.
Thanks Jady!
Hahahahahahaha winter........hahahaha Cold lmao
Quoted from pinballinreno:Did you get those lm339 chips put in?
Arriving Monday, install Monday nite.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Lol.
I feel for those of us that have real winters!
We have our share of sub-zero temps here, but its pretty light by comparison.
I'm from California, the land of endless summer.
I moved to the reno area for the great, mild climate, actual seasons and clean air.
I really like it here.
After 30 years here, snow and mild winters is still a novelty for me.
I have lived all over North America and I love my winters. But when I retire here soon, it is off to Sunny San Diego..
Put in new LM339 chips on Opto Board, now mini play field is always in raised position. When in test mode, it will raise then error and it stops. So bizarre
Prior to rework, MPF was level, went up and down, no errors. Here is video
Quoted from pinballinreno:Do the optos under the big cam on the mpf work properly?
Sounds like cam opto problem.
If there is a light leak you might need washers under them or broken wire or trace on opto board???
If you found a bad lm339, what was the cause of its failure?
Short?
Always on?
Power surge?
Just thinkin' ...
I can't say what caused the failure, just tested the chips and 2 of the 3 were bad. Replaced chips, diodes and caps on the board. Strange now that MPF can't find it's home position now. I will be doing a deeper dive tomorrow, maybe replace some optos just for good measure.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The cam opto controls the home position.
I had the exact situation when i found that the opto could not be interrupted.
If the opto cant recieve, the same thing will occur.
See if it works by blocking it with a piece of paper.
See if the transmitter light shows on a cell camera etc.
Shouldn't be too bad to track down, hopefully.
Yep, Faz just posted a helpful tip, so changing the opto on the cam. Did not realize DMD shows the straight line beam if cam opto is at home, mine is not showing that. Good catch by Faz
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Yep, Faz just posted a helpful tip, so changing the opto on the cam. Did not realize DMD shows the straight line beam if cam opto is at home, mine is not showing that. Good catch by Faz
Follow up: replaced.cam opto, no change. All voltages are correct. Upon further look at opto oard under microscope, I see corrosion, so this board requires trace repair, so I will just buy a new board. No time to fix this board.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Thats pretty much what i did.
30 year old boards for the optos and motor controller?
Its the most important part of the game.
Lol.
So far the homepin 10 opto board is solid with about 600 plays on it. There are no negative reviews about it, so im assuming it just works.
Pindorabox also has them.
Possibly better quality, but a little longer to ship.
I also recommend replacing the motor controller while you at it.
Freshening up those boards pays big time down the road if you're a player like me.
Stability is what i look for.
I want the game ready to play at all times.
Yes, I had so many open connections when I was troubleshooting, it just angered me so I said WTH am I doing, spend the money on new boards.
My motor boards is rock solid, but I want the new one developed by @darkmatter who helped with the new lifter kit.
This game is so fun when everything works, so I will just plug along on my T2 restoration
20191220_142359 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:That PF looks great!
Are going to clear coat it?
I would...its worth the $200 investment.
No, it is not my game and the owner did not want to against my strong advice to clear it. So, I will just put it back together well cleaned and waxed.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I know, right.
The grain showing in the pic scares me.
But wtf? People do crazy things..
I know, it is only a little more money to preserve a really nice playfield that had ugly yellow mylar that I carefully removed.
20191116_135326 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:Thats pretty much what i did.
30 year old boards for the optos and motor controller?
Its the most important part of the game.
Lol.
So far the homepin 10 opto board is solid with about 600 plays on it. There are no negative reviews about it, so im assuming it just works.
I like the power LED and socketed chips as well as beefier components. It should hold up well enough.
Pindorabox also has them.
Possibly better quality, but a little longer to ship.
I also recommend replacing the motor controller while you at it.
Freshening up those boards pays big time down the road if you're a player like me.
Stability is what i look for.
I want the game ready to play at all times.
Installed new Opto interface board - No change
Next step - check all grounds.
ordering new Pindora 5 led opto carrier boards. Can't get alignment consistent.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Did you check the 12 pin opto connector for loose or corroded wires/contacts?
I have the great lake modular opto interface board and it has built in diagnostics that point you in the errors direction, in my case Ground issue, which was U20 on the MPU. All connectors were re pinned.
Quoted from travisbmartin:Can someone lend me a hand? I'm not getting any GI on the lower half of the backbox. Are there 2 or 3 GI strings up there? and does anyone know which Triacs run them? At a loss right now
Read this link, then read the Pinwiki info on GI lamps
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/doctor-who-general-illumination-memo#post-1281347
Quoted from pinballinreno:Opto carrier report :
28 days in, 400 plays.
Its perfect.
Zero defects, zero mushroom target errors. Zero phantom switch closures.
The pindorabox opto boards and the Swinks carrier were the definitive fix for me.
My game is ROCK SOLID !
Still plays like a dream.
Thanks Jady!
So Jealous, my pindora boards are almost here.
All new boards, new repinned connectors, still can't get the mpf to go to home position and register the targets. I give up.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Man that is frustrating. Do the targets register in test?
Home position is (I think) just based on the one Opto pair under the MPF.
No they don't. I have Great Lakes Modular Opto Interface board and the optos register on the board LED's but not in games switch test on the DMD.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Check the height of the optos.
Does the cam completely block and unblock the opto beam?
Test with cardboard.
If that works, rsise or lower the optos
If not:
Take out the time expander.
Remove the optos from the MPF, leaving them on the wire.
Isolate the wires for each led.
Isolate the pins in the connector.
Can you energise the pair manually and get them to respond?
If so plug into the harness, locate the pins and energise the connector manually. Fazs guide has some great test procedures.
Can you light up the pair? Do they respond? If so:
Check voltages at the cpu and opto board.
Check for proper signal with a logic probe etc.
Swap out the cpu board or the opto board in a pinch if you have a spare.
I am a firm believer in manual testing.
Adding 6 to 10 volts can really help isolate a problem and send you in the right direction.
I would never have sorted out my topper lights without injecting power thru the harness.
Already swapped out the MPU with another brand new board, same results. Pindora boards are new, just put them in today. Not sure why MPU is not seeing the optos. I am checking all connectors again tomorrow
Back to square one. Just a head scratcher since it was working 100%, then I put in new opto boards and now nothing.
Quoted from pinballinreno:These are the cam optos right?
Do the optos in the carrier work properly?
Or are all optos down?
If so check that a connector isnt off by a pin somewhere.
Do some basic tests.
Manually energize the the connector to check continuity.
You can see the emitter with a cell phone.
You can see resistance changes on the reciever with an ohmmeter.
Check the volage on the opto board, input and output, it's probably good.
Might be a ground fault.
Check the ground path of each of the optos for continuity all the way to the cpu board.
The only thing I can think that may be the issue is that I replaced the IDC connectorson the Opto interface board with standard connectors and perhaps the pins aren't seated correctly, but I never have issues when repinning. I will buzz continuity back to MPU and report back.
The nice thing about this GLM Opto board is the onboard LED status leta me know where my issue is. I just got the manual for board and it explains how to identify board or wirings issues, so let me do some reading.
Quoted from ignat:Hi Guys just picked up a Doctor Who. Has some faults but let’s start at the beginning.
How do I track down GND. Short Row 1 stuck closed?
MPF also not moving. I replaced the Cap on the motor drive. Seems to be intermittent
Thanks in advance
Find all the connections tied to row 1
Look for broken wires
Could be blown LM339 chip on MPU or Opto interface board.
Got a meter, start testing components.
Quoted from ignat:Thanks.
Thanks pulled interface from MPU problem goes away.
Checked wires all good.
The opto PCB looks corroded. I have a spare chip. You recommend changing it?
I changed the larger cap on it last night
Mine was corroded as well, I just replaced mine because even after cleaning corrosion and changing chips, caps and diodes, board still had intermittent issues. But you can always try and see what happens
Quoted from ignat:Hold on which PCB are you referring too?
My bidirectional motor drive is corroded.
I replaced both bi directional and opto interface board.
When u unplug bi directional board, does the error go away?
Quoted from ignat:Nope. It doesn’t.
Now it’s saying all 1-3 rows are shorted
Since I turned the machine on I think the mini pf has raised once.
Unplug the opto interface board as well and see if the problem goes away or if it goes back to the MPU
Quoted from ignat:With the opto board unplugged it doesn’t say ground fault but it’s complaining about the switches.
Plug in your bi directional board and leave opto unplugged. If no faults, then I would say bad LM339 chips on opto board
Quoted from ignat:With just Bi directional it just complains about the switches. Doesn’t say ground error.
Thats good. I would say the 3 LM339 chips are bad on the board or the diodes and caps have blown as well.
Pinwiki has a nice guide for testing for bad chips on the opto boards
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yep, sounds like you are close.
Believe I have a broken wire somewhere. What is correct voltage for pin 2-9 on J1 connector for Opto interface board? I am reading 3 volts on the pins. Kinda think these should all be 12 volts.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Visually inspect all 3 harnesses.
2 on tbe mpf and the one that goes to the backbox.
I found tons of hacks and bare wire in mine.
I even found wires twisted together and taped in tne corrugated sleeves lol.
Then i ohmed out every single wire and connector.
I did this when i had the harnesses out of the game though.
I cut out all the nylon ties and replaced them.
Any marginal connectors, i repinned the molex or replaced the IDC's.
It was a bit of work.
But it was needed after 30 years of hacks and neglect.
So frustrated right now, but has to be done. I know the drill, have done it many times before. Just so time consuming.
Quoted from yellowghost:Jeepers!!! My time expandor works like a well-oiled machine everytime. No fancy opto boards or 3D printed stuff. What Am I doing wrong?
Nothing, u r lucky. Mine was working 100%, then boom. Stuff fails and it is a pain tracking down intermittent issues, but I will get it. Just makes me mad, cus my T2 restore is on hold and it is 90% finished
I need a pic of connectors J1,J2, J3,J4,J5 and J6 on Opto Interface board. Just realised the manual page 3-12 has the connectors incorrect, at least how I am reading it. The key spots are in the wrong locations for J4 and J6. This could be my whole issue is the connectors are all pinned wrong.
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:Got some time to work on my Doctor Who this week, got the mini PF taken out. One of the target optos is dead, and another one I think is really close to dying, so I plan on replacing the boards... pinballinreno - how long did it take for your set from PindoraBox to arrive? I think that's the ones I am going to go with. Are the receivers short enough that you didn't have to shave them down or anything? I may also spring for a new opto carrier from swinks, those look pretty stout!
I had a problem with my controlled lights, but that's figured out now. Once the MPF is done, I should be fully operational. That's going to be nice, I haven't played this game in about 6 or 7 years!
I just recieved my pindora board, took 2 weeks for shipping. Read through this thread for pics and info. I used a thin piece of fishpaper to raise the blue board so that the e-clips did not hit the IR's. Swinks's carrier is perfect. It is best to add black side shields to the outside edge to block light.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yep, took about 2 weeks to get the pindorabox boards.
The receivers are still too long, evidently there will not be any short ones made any more.
In my opinion the swinks carrier is a must.
I really like the idea of fish paper on the receiver side to compensate for the extra length of the receiver optos! It seems actually professional, lol, thanks eyeamred2u !
But 3 layers of black electrical tape worked for me in a pinch (now I gotta buy some fishpaper...).
If you are using the paper shroud: paint the end flaps, or the whole paper black. (see my post on this...)
Pinrestore sells fish paper in gray and black. Download the shield template from ipdb.org
Quoted from pinballinreno:Ill take some pictures tonight so you can verify the wire colors.
Thanks, I think I mapped them all out, but the pics help to confirm
Quoted from pinballinreno:Maybe these will help[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks. For connectors J4,J5 and J6 it is Gray(A), Black(K), White(C), and Green(E) ?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yes exactly, Better pics
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Ok, I had that wrong, stupid manual.now I have to confirm J1, J2 and J3 wiring. Is the manual and your wiring correct?
Quoted from pinballinreno:I never checked, but the circuits I did check, in almost all cases its dead on. It took me 4 days to light the topper lol. My game was slightlydifferent from the schematic, I just matched it up to the schematic and it worked.
Probably operator hacks caused the differences.
Thanks so much. This is a hacked game for sure. Crazy how it was running perfect, then BAM. But I will just take my time to figure it out. I find more hacks the deeper I look under the surface.
The sad part is when I jumper pins on J3, I get a an unused row showing up on my display, like my new ROM is corrupt. I am gonna put my old ROM in and see what happens. This game is haunted! Lmao
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its crap like this that caused me to rip it all apart and start over...
Just too many hacks to be stable at all.
I kept asking myself, WTF!?!?!? and why the F#ck would anyone do this...LOL!
It all got fixed after 4 months of work...
I just found another wire not connected. On the upper left flipper, should there be 2 orange wires connected to EOS stack or 1, I have a wire I found tucked in the loom
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:Alright, got my opto boards ordered from Pindorabox, and the new style opto carrier from Swinks. Now I just have to wait for them to arrive... I will spend the interim getting everything else on the game in good order, and waiting to finally have my machine working again!
-Brian
Awesome!! The group is here if you need us. Keep us posted.
Quoted from Jakers:I'm having troubles figuring out a time expander problem. The middle target on the second level will not register. I've replaced both sender and receiver optos. The weird thing is, when I touch the 2 pins of the receiver opto (on the solder side) the target registers correctly. It doesn't take any pressure at all to make it work. Just bridging the receiver pins with my skin makes it work perfectly. Does this point to a resistance problem? Maybe the problem stems from the 10 opto board under the playfield?
You mean you are putting a jumper across the terminals on the opto receiver board?
Quoted from Jakers:I've put new solder on every wire, opto sender, receiver and checked my molex connectors. If I hold my finger on the receiver opto I can move the whole assembly around any which way and it works flawlessly. The second I stop touching the receiver opto prongs it quits working.
Board has broken trace points
Quoted from Jakers:Essentially using my fingertip as a jumper, yes. But as a test, I did jumper the receiver prongs with a wire and the target still would not work. I removed the jumper wire, touched it with my fingertip and it works flawlessly. Which is why I'm thinking it's a resistance issue.
So u are a ground
Quoted from Jakers:I swapped the 10 opto board from under the playfield with the 10 opto board out of my BSD. The time expander targets work perfectly now. So I guess I’ve gotta shell out $100 for a new one. Bummer, but at least I can stop taking this time expander apart all the time for testing.
That is great news! I have the great lakes modular opto board, built in LED's that show optos registering. Well worth the100 bucks. Makes troubleshooting easy.
Quoted from Clnilsen:Can someone with a DW accessible measure the precise size of the translight GLASS cover (not the translite itself?) Mine's packed right now,and need the exact size.
My glass is 27-1/8" x 19" x 1/8"
Quoted from pinballinreno:https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Backglass_Sizes
27" x 18-7/8" (685x479x3mm) 1/8" clear tempered glass (sanded edge, no logo)
There are slight production variations but, this is what Williams ordered from the glass vendors.
Yes, That is prolly correct size.
Quoted from pinballinreno:No, thats looks wrong.
post #3415 shows that mine were dark and light same as the gulf stream and originals.
I thought so, I bought them from Ministry of Pinball and they are telling me the boards are correct, both clear IR's, and I am super confused now.
Quoted from Coyote:Not all recievers are clear, some are clouded/grey. It just depends on the manufacturer of the LED/Phototransistor.
I get that, but these are clear like the transmitters
Quoted from Coyote:*nods* Some phototransistors ARE clear, that's what I'm saying. You can't judge them based on the color.
In fact, if you look at them, you can SEE the blue board is a transistor and not an LED, with the different black-colored base inside.
I will.look closer, don't see the difference you are pointing at. Thank you for the clarification.
Quoted from pinballinreno:If you put the old boards back on, do they work?
If all sets are not working the problem is not the boards.
Possibly a ground issue on the receiver side.
All wiring has been verified, no ground issues. Gonna try original boards
Quoted from pinballinreno:I would reinstall the pindorabox boards when you get a chance.
They needed very little adjustmant if any.
pinballfaz might have some insight?
I am going to put them back in tomorrow. Again, thanks for all the help.
Quoted from Jakers:I’ve ALMOST got my game 100% working. The last problem I can see is a couple flashers not working. The Doctor 7 (middle backglass doctor) and the time expander flasher are not working. They are on the same circuit and should flash at the same time. I have continuity from the board to the bulbs and have checked for cold solder joints on the back of the board.
While I had the driver board off, I noticed that transistor Q42 (the transistor that controls said flashers) is a TIP122 but the manual calls for a TIP102. It’s obviously been replaced at some point. Would this cause the flashers to not operate?
Have you reflowed the lamp board pads? Swapped #6 and #7 to make sure you don't have a bad lamp holder.
Tip 122 is acceptable.
Quoted from pinballinreno:its there. I used it extensively during my restoration.
Get to know the manual page by page. Its VERY informative.
Print out a copy and spiral bind it with plastic covers.
another source for part numbers is marcos website.
they break down the sub-assemblies by their part numbers. Its amazing!
I think the ipdb.org has a parts list in text format
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