Quoted from TigerLaw:

Check out this on EBay right now (not mine, just thought ya'll would like to see it): ebay.com link » Bally Doctor Who 1992 Pinball Machine Rare One Of A Kind Artwork

Quoted from Tomcat:

Yes, that picture was intended for the early backbox version. More Dr Who history on Bill Pfutzenreuter's page....
http://home.comcast.net/~pfutz/UnofficialDoctorWhoPinballHistory/index.html
http://home.comcast.net/~pfutz/UnofficialDoctorWhoPinballHistory/DrWhoBB.htm

Quoted from bklossner:

Does anyone have any photos of a machine with the "rainbow" alternate translite from pinballwizard.nl -- the multi-colored one instead of primarily blue translite?
http://www.pinballwizard.nl/contents/en-us/d1092_Doctor_Who_Bally_flipperkast_translite_alternatief.html
(We're asking about the first one)
My wife and I are now going bonkers with the fact that the original translite can now be replaced. There's the photo of the "blue" alternative translite in a post above but we'd love to see a pin with the other multi-colored background.

Quoted from jedimojo:

I wish I could still get the alternate translite. There's no way that I can tell to order it via the website.... at least not when I looked last. There was some paypal alternative I wasn't familiar with....ug!
Somebody needs to go there and bring a box of these back. You know.... as a gift. For friends. Uh huh.

Quoted from catboxer:

Pretty sure Diamond plate is just auto clear, they will chemically bond.

Quoted from jwinn1812:

PM Ballypinball he can put you on the right track

Quoted from pinball_faz:

I saw this one on ebay this morning:
ebay.com link » Doctor Who Pinball Back Glass Mylar
Looks like a small blemish in a solid red area...s/b fixable with some finesse.
faz

Quoted from MikeS:

Thanks. I'll make a new shield out of construction paper and give it a try. It's weird because I tried wrapping my current shield in electrical tape (to make it darker) but it didn't seem to make any difference. Is the paper shield supposed to cover the ends?-my original one didn't.

Quoted from MikeS:

Thanks for the info on the paper. Lack of a repro main playfield/translite/plastics does make it a more difficult game to restore. I was able to find a 4 piece plastic set but everything else seems hard to come by. It sounds like the licensing costs are high which is why some of the parts are likely not being made. I'm guessing that the reason that the ramps, mini-pf, and time expander cover were made was because they didn't feature licensed content or pictures of the actors? Hopefully HEP gets to his DW soon as I would love to see the pics.

Quoted from TaylorVA:

How is it?

Quoted from awarner:

I'd bet it's an original. This isn't something that Gene ever made, but probably had NOS of lost in his warehouse. Trust me, this is a highly educated guess here.

Quoted from TaylorVA:

How is it?

Quoted from Hawk007:

dsuperbee sounds like you have a cord/plug/or a connector problem. Also check thermistor in the power switch box and all connections in there. You could check the power on the aux plug when firing up with a dmm.

Quoted from TaylorVA:

Can someone clarify what Cointaker bulb will most match the existing incandescent lights. I've read people using different bulbs. These will be the only LEDs in my game. Thanks.

Quoted from TaylorVA:

I haven't used any. Mine is still in pieces but if it needs it I will probably use a teflon lube.

Quoted from pinballlizard:

Really they are that hard to get? I could make one on my lathe in about 5 minutes.

Quoted from TaylorVA:

sorry to hear that. I have used opto boards if you need them to hack up.

Quoted from TaylorVA:

Yeah. Adjusting the mini is something I'm looking forward to….well at least it means it can be adjusted.

Quoted from TaylorVA:

Where are the TE scoops suppose to kick to? Opposite flippers?

Quoted from Fairground:

I notice that mine shoot sdtm during game but if you end the game with them still locked they shoot out to the flippers. can you tell me how it can be adjusted please?

Quoted from pinballnut3:

Has anyone ever tried to smooth the movement of the Playfield going up and down.
mine seems to have a little play

Quoted from RyanStl:

Very tempting because they look like they would fit right perfect with the theme. I'm worried they'll get chewed up though. My DW has a fabulous circle gouge from the play field swiveling up.

Quoted from TaylorVA:

You should be able to bend that in towards the playfield to prevent that.

Quoted from TaylorVA:

Couple of gameplay questions.
1. When should the trapdoor go down? Mine usually does sometimes after 10 loops but sometimes it will stay up. Will go down after a WHO is completed as well.
2. How do you get an extra ball? I've made numerous WHO sets as well as finished the first four VM levels. I usually allow one extra ball but could never light it so set it to allow two and still unable to qualify one.
Thanks

Quoted from TaylorVA:

I had my game set to tournament mode which turns off EBs. Now the dilemma, allow an EB or just grind it out on 3?
How many EBs are people allowing themselves? Seems they are pretty easy to earn in factory settings.

Quoted from awarner:

Cool! I did the documentation on it. Anyway, take your time with the head adjustment and I'd recommend using a Dremel to flatten the lip on the top of the body. You can get the head closer to the body that way. It takes a little while to install but it looks and works like the original (with a smaller gap between the head and body than the original).

Quoted from webdiddy:

Alt translite anyone?

dr-who1.jpg 195 KB

dr-who2.jpg 206 KB

Quoted from Lame33:

Getting the lights to have some relation to what is going on with the game seems like the biggest challenge for designing an alt translite. (if that's even a concern) With that cool space design, arranging the stars to fit the flashing lights would seem like a good way to add some effects.
Then of course, how do you get these things printed?
And what about the K9 LE version?

Quoted from Atomicboy:

Anyone had any issues with the cliffy's, using all three for the mini being too tight or rubbing?

Quoted from Atomicboy:

What bracket are you talking about?

Quoted from RyanStl:

How much of a cost deduction would you guys place on faded reds on the cabinet? In a lot of locations you can't even really see the side of a pin. Just curios, mine's not for sale.

Quoted from altan:

Why do you say this? I love my DW but I wouldn't call it rare...

Quoted from dendoc:

Just saw the "COW" transmat whoops. Never heard that mentioned before.
I'm so proud - getting my first mini-playfiled errors now - really feel like I'm in the club. Seems like there is some "slippage" in the motor. Get errors for both CW and CCW directions, with the playfield coming up, and suddenly dropping a bit. Fine when testing with the main playfield up as there is no gravity to drop is down a bit. Feels like there is some play when I manually pull on the mini-playfield lower "bar". I have a Frankenstein replacement motor, so can't even get the miniplayfield out to tighten things up. Any suggestions?

Quoted from dendoc:

Wish I could. I removed the entire playfield when I did a full refurbishment, and think I'll need a welder to remove it! May have to keep looking.DSC_1437.JPG

Quoted from nikpinball:

You can led it then change your flashers to yellow to tone it down a notch. White flashers are just too strong

Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Question: So tonight I noticed "sometimes" hitting my left flipper scores 1,000 points each flip. I dont think it can be vibration triggering a bad switch. Anyone know what switch is 5,000 points? I do have an opto error, but the opto works so I ignored it.
update: Not just the "somtimes" left flipper. But also idle, it will start scoring 5k points.
Only switch that comes to mind are the lanes that score 5k?

Quoted from dendoc:

If you download freac it will do it for you. It's free, and works fine.
I see Pinaball Arcade is releasing Dr Who next on all platforms. That'll have even more people chasing my game!

Quoted from travisbmartin:

Has anyone done prebuilt LED kits for their DW? Like Cointaker or NiftyLEDs? The kit I bought was not the best. I have to get $50 or so in flashers to make up for what wasn't included in the "full kit."
I don't know why I'm even posting. I'm frustrated, but I don't want to call them out. I don't even want to email and complain, because I'm not going to get them to just send me $50 in missing parts. I'm just so annoyed about it.

Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Nice, glad it went to a good home. The Cabinet is really nice. Did you negotiate the price since it is missing the topper? BTW, a cliffy will cover up them dings by the Time Expander. This one seems like a dif one from CL, the one on CL had a coin door lock bar.

Quoted from Greenman74:

So, it looks like we are going to have to rebuild the mini-playfield. It is pretty worn out on one side.
Does anyone have any advice, pictures, diagrams, videos for order of disassembly and reassembly?

Quoted from Greenman74:

The mini-playfield keeps on binding or getting hung up on something. There is definitely something mechanical going on.

Quoted from Greenman74:

Thanks you. You give me hope, DSuperBee.

Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

MY DW is on the fritz. Starting to regret owning so many pins... Some day I may just sell it all and give up on this hobby. Just got done trouble shooting JM so pissed off to now start another. Borderline 16 pins for sale on pinside and will never come back.

Quoted from bpull:

Dont give up Jean-Luc!
Maybe someone local can help you out? As you fix more, you will learn more, and things will get faster and better for you.
Brian

Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Top right block in switch test is cleared. no more flickering. However, I have a F6 U.R. Flipper but error. However, DW doesn't have an upper right flipper. I removed the flipptronics board. It had 2 hacks. I replaced it with a rotten dog 1&2 flip board. Still reboots when flippers are hit.
So, I am guessing... Diode is bad on one of the flippers coils?

Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

update: both flipper buttons reboot the game. highly doubt it is a diode now since both sides are triggering the reboot..

Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

LOL, that lasted 30 seconds... It is back to resetting via any flipper button. I will continue to read

Quoted from BOBCADE:

I finally joined the club! After only coming by one with blown out inserts in a year I found a pretty decent game from a semi local seller only 4.5 hours away. Has a color dmd, nice play field, okay cabinet, protectors on time expander and ramps. I picked up a pinsound board used and should have installed soon.
Question, I always go over parts available for a game and make a judgment call on what to have on hand for just in case. Anyone think something is required to have a hot spare for? I did notice the trapdoor assembly near the upper left flipper is not available or even listed anywhere out of stock. I believe it's A-15444. Anyone see that anywhere?

Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Player examples are sub $2k. Collectors examples will be over $5.5k.

Quoted from BOBCADE:

Got sling protectors to put on today. While the trapdoor isn't used often, the inner hinge gets hit with pretty much every loop shot.

Quoted from Mitch:

Planatary pinball. But Ron did alot of work to make it perfect. I'm in it alot of money.

Quoted from scooter8416:

Does anyone know the differences in the repo ramps that have been available? Some better than others, or are they all made by the same person/company?

Quoted from pinball_faz:

The motor or the gearbox?
I have a test procedure somewhere... let me find it.
faz
EDIT: Found it!
Check the gear box output first. Put on a pair of leather garden gloves and try to pinch the moving gear. If it spins solidly against the leather things should be good. A broken gear would rotate 14 times a minute or about every 4 seconds. If the gear ever stops moving/stutters, you have a break in the system.
Check the motor next. It unscrews off the gear box. Do the same thing with the gloves, see if the motor spins solidly.
If the gear box is the culprit, you have nothing to lose...drill the rivets and get a look inside. Could be a broken tooth or it could be a broken gear shaft. If it's a broken tooth, I've heard of people swapping gears from other boxes, but honestly, I think I'd buy a new gearbox/motor for that. I did see a neat trick for fixing a broken gear shaft. They replaced the shaft with the shaft of a drill bit...cut to length and the fix held.

Quoted from pinball_faz:

I've never cracked open the motor before. I have never had reports of the motor itself failing.
Are you sure it's the motor and not the gear on the motor's arbor? I believe the gear is pressure fit onto the motor shaft. I've seen those tiny gears either break the hold on the shaft or the gear actually split... again, so it's loose. Either of these conditions would allow the motor to turn the gear box under low torque but when more weight comes into play... no deal.
faz

Quoted from pinball_faz:

Wow! And you have 20V going to the motor??
faz

Quoted from pinball_faz:

I'm really curious to see what the state of the motor is; the catalyst for a motor loss of power. Gotta be the brushes like you hinted. Replace for sure but it would be fun to diagnose.
I don't think you can just get the motor though.. I've only seen the motor/gearbox set.
Maybe Steve at PBR...
faz

Quoted from pinball_faz:

That's what I thought. Looks like a repair was attempted... perhaps they found a replacement gear or fabricated one by hand. Either way the gear disintegrated because it was a lesser material. You will be so much happier with a new gearbox... and you'll have some spare gears and a motor... because evidently they can fail too (sorry Brian).
faz

Quoted from pinball_faz:

Poor Rudy
faz

Quoted from pinball_faz:

So, the gear is on there, just in the wrong position along the shaft? That stinks! Feels like you would need the equivalent of a brake hub puller to press grab the edge of the gear and apply pressure to the shaft.
faz

Quoted from pinball_faz:

I'm interested to see how this works.
Here's some good discussion in the RC world.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?91851-I-have-a-motor-with-a-brass-cog-on-the-end-How-do-i-remove-the-cog-and-replace-it/page2
Maybe try the soldering iron first.. it's a little more controlled.
faz

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

All right - follow-up.
I noticed that the flashers under the left ramp are also lit constantly. They do flash in test, so ... I guess it's good? Just wanted to confirm whether this is expected. I've not seen a pin with flashers that have constant power before.
Next thing: I'm working on the miniplayfield. I am having some serious issues with it all of a sudden, it was going up and down... ok.. before but I disassembled it to clean it - now it won't go up or down hardly at all. I don't *think* it's binding (followed Faz's guide to line it all up) but it's got to be something like that - it had enough power before, and was able to go up and down, so I'm not sure what to think.
Also, is it possible to misalign the cam where it is raising the MPF but the optos don't realize it? In other words, the tab is in the wrong spot so the optos think the MPF is raised or lowered all the way, but it is in fact not?
thx!

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I forgot to mention - when I hook up my 12V power supply to the MPF it goes up and down all day long. Slips a little at the top, but I figure this is an alignment thing. It goes up and down when powered outside the game both CW and CCW (i.e. reverse wired) and with the entire MPF assembled as well as just the brackets themselves.
So I'm thinking either a) not enough power is getting to the motor (will test that), or b) something is binding so bad it just can't move
next I'll swap the driver board with my TZ or creature and see what happens..

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

All right, here's a video of my time expander. Note I have cliffys on but i experienced the same situation before installing them. As far as I can tell, the surfaces are not binding on the edges - the Mpf is pushed fully back in the brackets.
» YouTube video

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Thanks a bunch guys - I will look more into the board; hopefully I have some of the parts needed. Or I wonder if the board is for sale somewhere

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The motor actually looks pretty good - it tests out ok, so i'm hoping it's just the board! I haven't been able to test things thoroughly yet, so i don't know what part is bad, but hopefully I can get to that today. Funny thing is, everything was working before, and it just seems hard to believe the board blew something so quickly.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

That sucks! Well, I haven't played *one* game on this one yet, so I would have loved to at least have that! PinballDoctor is saving the day, shipping me a new board. I'm headed to FLorida on sunday so I won't have parts from Marco before I leave... I'm hoping I can put the new board in the game and just GO! I'll repair the board, and probably sell one of them once we've bulletproofed the game.
Question on flashers: do the flashers under the left ramp and behind the back wall (doctor #5) stay on all the time?

Quoted from chrisr:

Just joined the club! I'm looking for the time expander target buttons. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Looks awesome! ... but I can't tell what you modded? Wish my mini PF worked that well!

Quoted from Elicash:

Guys, what is current average price for a Dr Who? Interested in one that is on location, so likely a little roughed up and in need of shop. But overall playfield looks good.
This is a pin I dont know alot about. But seems like it might be a sleeper. Thanks!

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Completely LED-lit from behind, not EL-wire, which will lose brightness over time and eventually not light at all (I know - I have one of the original EL wire Twilight Zone backboards)
Comes with a remote control with which you can dial in specific color schemes (works best on certain games but functions on all)
I will have one installed in my Nu-DW pin soon, and will post pics and a video

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Poor choice of words on my part. EL panels are made using the same electro-luminance approach that EL-wire uses. A plastic panel or wire is coated with the EL solution, electricity is applied, and the EL coating lights up. Eventually that coating wears out or comes off, and you've just got a dimly lit piece of plastic.
That's not how these panels are made - these panels have LEDs embedded in a form mold which has transparent silicone poured in to allow the lights to shine through. It is a seriously robust final product. You replace the entire wood panel that the plastic artwork sits on top of, and it is evenly lit front behind.

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

A friend of mine just pointed out that the posts on the outlanes are adjustable. How are they set on your machine (up or down) and does anyone know how they were set from the factory?

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Wow no fade at all!

Quoted from Doctor6:

Holy hell, that is a beautiful machine. That backless is amazing. Normally I hate alternate translights, but THAT ONE is amazing. I'm looking at buying a Doctor Who soon. Not soon enough.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Funny you should say that - I "auditioned" this and the other alt translite, and while you are correct the other one doesn't match up at all, this one absolutely does. The main flashers are behind the DW logo, the Tardis, the Daleks and the light show looks really really good. I really prefer the color scheme on this one better, too. I put a blue light under the blue thing in Davros' head (upper right) and it lines up perfectly. Really well done, this one.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I really wish I could have found the original design for the Bally head, and had that remade, but who knows how that would work with the light show. The production translite was done at the total last minute; I've always hated it! Lol
Love your avatar btw!