Doctor Who
Bally, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider RyanStl.
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Hi all, I've been meaning to post here since I joined considered DW is my only pin. I love it, and almost finished installing most of a Cointaker LED kit. Besides the bulbs blocked by the time expander and the Dalek head I saved the 7 doctors in the back box for last. Go figure the very last screw in to put the board back in fell on the playfield. I can't find it anywhere. This was a total newb mistake because if I had the glass on I would not have this problem.
I'm happy now. With a spatula and fridge magnet I retrieved the screw. The DW is so much brighter with cointakers. My next step is taking out the time expander and installing all the Cliffy protectors I have sitting on the shelf.
Quoted from ttown:I have been looking at the Cointakers and the Pinbulbs LED sets. I think the Pinbulbs look more colorful from what I can tell on other machines. I have Pinbulbs in my TAF and Cointakers in the WCS. The TAF kit came with spot lights and all sorts of LED strips etc. Not sure if Cointaker has added those yet or ? I know Cointaker is more organized as far as the kit goes etc.
What are the general thoughts out there from the group for LED's on Dr Who?
I don't have experience with Pinbulbs, but I can tell you about Cointaker. The kit is very organized and well labeled. Cointaker does not change any colors and the full kit did not come with spot lights.
Basically, the LED matched the color of the plastic. The GI was all frosted white. The back box was all white. What it did was really brighten the whole thing up. It looks really great. Now it is so bright I can see all the dust and bits of wax I missed when I cleaned the playfield prior to installing the LEDs.
I'm a very happy customer, especially since I was still able to get the Labor Day special a day late. I believe I saved 25 percent. Don't forget Cointaker gives a 15 percent Pinside discount anytime. I don't know if Pinbulbs does that, but I do know their kit was way more expensive.
I totally agree with Lame33. Looking at photos it looks like Pinbulbs replaces the white GI with blues and reds where Cointaker is all frosted white. I may end up replacing some of the white with color now I know what I'm doing (so I think). If I do I would still be way ahead in price.
If I had a local option I would pay more, but not a lot more. Also, if the Cointaker discount doesn't work I'd e-mail them.
Here are pics of my DW with the Cointaker full LED kit. I haven't done the time expander or the red controlled lights in front of the time expander. I'm waiting to do those when I have time to tear it apart to install the Cliffy's.
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Very tempting because they look like they would fit right perfect with the theme. I'm worried they'll get chewed up though. My DW has a fabulous circle gouge from the play field swiveling up.
I completed some work on my DW this weekend. I took off the ramps which allowed me to clean and get to those hard to reach bulbs and rubbers. I also got the logo glass protector and finished my Cliffy's install.
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image-433.jpgQuoted from zippydapinhead:Just got a new Christmas tree topper and trying to decide if it goes in the ornament box after Christmas or up on top afterwards...
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That statue looks spot on to the show. Don't let it go to waste.
I have to say your choice over FT was very well thought out. To help with your question before replacing the rubbers the ball went more for the Tardis and video mode. With new rubbers the ball bounces back to the playfield more often.
Quoted from Dano:So after starting to take apart the flipper I noticed that the middle wire on the flipper coil stop broke off. Off to radio shack tomorrow to get my first soldering iron and start a crash youtube lesson on soldering. At least I have the spare parts if the flipper really breaks on me now.
Wow, the same wire split off my coil as well last weekend. I was playing and all of a sudden the right flipper got super weak. I opened the hood ready to rebuild the flipper and found the disconnected wire. I love it when repairs are that easy.
No shit. I just started practicing hitting loops to get the multiplier up to score higher on multiball. Trying to do that it's taking me longer to get the TE up. Plus I didn't realize the multiplier was on a timer. I know this sucks because good players get way more, but I'm trying to beat my HS of just under 250 mil.
The original translite has really grown on me. Okay there are no big breasted ladies, but it fits the theme really well since the game is all about the different doctors.
Those post daleks look really great. Next time I take the Doctor apart I'll have to order a set of red for the slingshots.
I'm with TigerLaw. I get my video mode points early and since I'm shooting for the pop bumpers to get there I gain Doctors fast. I only choose Doc 7 when I'm ready to lower the TE. I don't to it right away because I trie to keep Doc 6 to get the loop multiplier up.
Quoted from Wickerman2:Same here...says 7000+ were made...though you don't find them that often.
When you don't find something often I guess that means rare. Although for DW rare might be a bit extreme, but they don't seem to turn often.
Quoted from dsuperbee:Maybe if you selected my whole quote.....
It is a rare game in that fade won't really drop,the price much.
Sorry, dsuperbee, you are right. I didn't catch the miss quote. 
Yes reds do fade easy.
Quoted from dendoc:Popped a video of my Doctor in action with my Pinsound board mix and color DMD if anyone is interested.
» YouTube video
Nice Who.
Quoted from datafry:cliffy's site doesn't show the long right side ramp protector, for the millions, I have the short one on the left from him already. Hmm I'll drop him an email see if he has one not listed.
I told Cliffy I wanted the whole kit for the DW. It included the ramp protector.
Quoted from travisbmartin:Has anyone done prebuilt LED kits for their DW? Like Cointaker or NiftyLEDs? The kit I bought was not the best. I have to get $50 or so in flashers to make up for what wasn't included in the "full kit."
I don't know why I'm even posting. I'm frustrated, but I don't want to call them out. I don't even want to email and complain, because I'm not going to get them to just send me $50 in missing parts. I'm just so annoyed about it.
My Cointaker LED ket came with a replacement bulb for every single on one the DW, even the Dalek head. The only issue I had was the yellow bulb that goes on top of the Time Expander came out orange. I replaced it with another brand it all was good.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Pulling out the mini playfield is not very hard at all - you just need to make sure you unplug all the connectors (there are a LOT of them!) and remove the time expander top piece and then the 4 screws that hold the miniplayfield in the game. IT takes about 5 minutes after you are familiar with all the steps.
First, read Faz's guide: https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxwaW5iYWxsZmF6fGd4OjVlYmVlYzE5OTA0MWNlZmQ
Then read it again. Then read it a 3rd time making sure you are looking at the corresponding parts in your game.
There are a lot of recent posts about having to enlargen the screws that hold the miniplayfield in - I and many others did not have to do this to get the Cliffys in. Remove the miniplayfield, remove the front posts, remove the blue steel flap (and throw it out! it is useless), install the Cliffys.
Then you'll want to reinstall the miniplayfield and check for rubbing. It looks like your game may have had some moisture damage, so the wood may have expanded (hardy har), in which case you would have to sand it down a bit. But you may not need to do anything, which is why check first!
That said, it's really important to install those things. From your pics, you clearly understand the type of damage you can expect. those will help keep it from getting worse.
This is the truth. Taking out the mini playfield was not very difficult using Faz's guide. Take it as an opportunity to do some deep cleaning as well. You'll defiantly want the Cliffy protecting the front edge of the mini playfield. You don't want pinballs bouncing off the edge of the unprotected wood.
Quoted from Tophervette:I have dipped a toe into the pinball world. I recently bought a Dr Who MPF that came from a flooded warehouse, that was for sale on this site. I have really enjoyed pulling it apart using the Faz guide. Good news is that the motor, gear box, elevator, cam were in good shape. Bad news is that: Metal posts, screws, Tnuts and lamp holders were Rusted. The wood play field was squishy like a sponge on the front. It had 2 mylars stacked. The T nuts were poorly covered in epoxy. The cover is broken and cracked in 3 places. The elevator had both yellow caked grease and black grease. Yuk.
Once apart and every part catalogued, I began cleaning/polishing. I have bought a new wood play field and cover. I have ordered new screws and parts from Marco. Cliffs is making me protectors for the play field. I have taken measurements from the old one as I know I have some drilling and front end removal (2mm) supposedly.
I have been reading up here on testing the Optos. I was able to connect the motor to a 12 volt power supply and was able to verify that it worked with no gear slop. It looks like it had been replaced recently.
Next will be learning how to test the coils. I am guessing they are 12 volt? I have a VOM and will test for continuity and resistance.
Pictures once things are cleaner. Maybe a before and after picture.
Oh my, way to jump into the hobby. Wish you the best. I love me some DW.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I second the Cliffy set and I see nothing wrong that would cause the ball to shoot back out.
Heck yeah, a TE Cliffy is a must. Probably the best use of a Cliffy ever.
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Fenton, MO