(Topic ID: 76377)

Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!

By HoakyPoaky

7 years ago


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  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by Rdoyle1978
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There are 4935 posts in this topic. You are on page 98 of 99.
#4851 50 days ago

Yes they are tough to get, but if you are patient and look around many sites, and are willing to pay a price as soon as it shows up.....

Two of mine are currently motorized. The UK Servo one and a Mark Davidson version like the original had.

Wishing Mark would make another batch so they could all talk to each other.

EXTERMINATE! You would make a good Dalek! We are supreme beings!"

and just like that My error codes on the magic mushrooms disappeared when the mailman showed up with new boards. She knew I was about to rip her open again and decided to cooperate. Intermittant error on Switch 71 sounds like loose connection.

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1 week later
#4852 43 days ago

The latest upgrade is new full length flippers and red silicon bands, with some really cool design on top that matches playfield. I really thought full length flippers would be a lot longer than the lightning ones, but hey, every 1/8 inch counts. I like the look too.

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#4853 43 days ago

If anyone is selling DW, please for the love of god PM me.

#4854 41 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

The latest upgrade is new full length flippers and red silicon bands, with some really cool design on top that matches playfield. I really thought full length flippers would be a lot longer than the lightning ones, but hey, every 1/8 inch counts. I like the look too.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Im sticking with the lightning flippers.

They rock!

#4855 41 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im sticking with the lightning flippers.
They rock!

I can always switch back, but....I am still trying to get a high score, without really cheating (like taking the playfield glass off and putting the ball up the PF multiplier manually for every ball). Once I read that the original game designer made the ramps for use with full size flippers, and that some Euro market wanted shorter game time and higher game sales with shorter flippers, I wanted the longer flippers. They do make a difference.

#4856 41 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

I can always switch back, but....I am still trying to get a high score, without really cheating (like taking the playfield glass off and putting the ball up the PF multiplier manually for every ball). Once I read that the original game designer made the ramps for use with full size flippers, and that some Euro market wanted shorter game time and higher game sales with shorter flippers, I wanted the longer flippers. They do make a difference.

My upper flipper is standard and the lower ones are lightning.

Its from the manual.

Also the lightning pattern looks cool.

Try setting your replay settings for extra ball to a ladder style of setup.

1st replay at 300000

2nd at 500000

3rd at 750000

4th at 950000

Put the extra ball in the 3rd ot 4th wave in the video mode.

This gives you something to shoot for, its not cheating.

Yoy can adjust the numbers as you get better at the game.

Location operators tune these settings as the game times increase.

Its a popular setup on location games and players really like it.

1 week later
#4857 33 days ago

Fellow Doctor Who pinball owners. I need some advice and guidance.

First, I direct your attention to the Doctor Who manual page 3-20 Power Driver Board, Connector J104 is printed as supplying 50VAC to the Fliptronics board at connector J901. However on page 3-26 Fliptronis II Board, Connector J901 states it is getting 50VAC from J105 on the Power Driver Board. Now my game plays with J104 connected and my connector is labeled J104. I measured the voltage on both J104 and J105 pins 1 and 3. They all read 70 volts. The 4 fuses on the Flip board also read 70 volts. I know there are errors in the manual. So which plug is your game on?

Second, I have a Power Driver Board from 2005 from PINLED in Germany. While it plays the game successfully, I have noticed that several of the lights in the playfield flicker on and off during the game. The W-H-O score dots, The ESCAPE triangles, and the multiplier diamonds. I read that the PINLED board suffered from ghosting. Has anyone else experienced this or have this board installed?

Third, I bought a Pinball basement Power Driver Board in hopes that the ghosting goes away, as it is advertised to be a direct copy of the Bally/Williams Board. Does anyone have that board in their game?

Thanks for any and all input.

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#4858 33 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

First, I direct your attention to the Doctor Who manual page 3-20 Power Driver Board, Connector J104 is printed as supplying 50VAC to the Fliptronics board at connector J901. However on page 3-26 Fliptronis II Board, Connector J901 states it is getting 50VAC from J105 on the Power Driver Board. Now my game plays with J104 connected and my connector is labeled J104. I measured the voltage on both J104 and J105 pins 1 and 3. They all read 70 volts. The 4 fuses on the Flip board also read 70 volts. I know there are errors in the manual. So which plug is your game on?

If you look at the WPC schematics, you will see that J104 and J105 are wired exactly the same, so it does not matter. And that 70v is 70v under no load, and is a normal reading.

Quoted from Tophervette:

Second, I have a Power Driver Board from 2005 from PINLED in Germany. While it plays the game successfully, I have noticed that several of the lights in the playfield flicker on and off during the game. The W-H-O score dots, The ESCAPE triangles, and the multiplier diamonds. I read that the PINLED board suffered from ghosting. Has anyone else experienced this or have this board installed?

If you are using LEDs, then yes. PinLED boards are (were?) excellent, but they do introduce a lot more ghosting. Simply use non-ghosing LEDs, or, get an LEDOCD board.

Quoted from Tophervette:

Third, I bought a Pinball basement Power Driver Board in hopes that the ghosting goes away, as it is advertised to be a direct copy of the Bally/Williams Board.

Ghosting can and does exist on normal OEM boards too.

#4859 33 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

Fellow Doctor Who pinball owners. I need some advice and guidance.
First, I direct your attention to the Doctor Who manual page 3-20 Power Driver Board, Connector J104 is printed as supplying 50VAC to the Fliptronics board at connector J901. However on page 3-26 Fliptronis II Board, Connector J901 states it is getting 50VAC from J105 on the Power Driver Board. Now my game plays with J104 connected and my connector is labeled J104. I measured the voltage on both J104 and J105 pins 1 and 3. They all read 70 volts. The 4 fuses on the Flip board also read 70 volts. I know there are errors in the manual. So which plug is your game on?
Second, I have a Power Driver Board from 2005 from PINLED in Germany. While it plays the game successfully, I have noticed that several of the lights in the playfield flicker on and off during the game. The W-H-O score dots, The ESCAPE triangles, and the multiplier diamonds. I read that the PINLED board suffered from ghosting. Has anyone else experienced this or have this board installed?
Third, I bought a Pinball basement Power Driver Board in hopes that the ghosting goes away, as it is advertised to be a direct copy of the Bally/Williams Board. Does anyone have that board in their game?
Thanks for any and all input.
[quoted image]

Get the LEDOCD board and GIOCD board for Doctor Who.

Yes, both boards.

After installation, its like night and day.

You have to enable all the strings in the software with a laptop via the program they provide.

I wrote about my experience earlier in this thread.

Its a must have addition if you have LEDS installed.

Incontrolled LEDS look terrible.

I have all original boards in my game.
Lots of ghosting prior to adding the LEDOCD boards.

I had to shorten the delay setting on my game to 4, to get all the ghosting out.

#4860 29 days ago

Hi guys,

I finally got around to fixing the problem with my motor not working. After fitting the new Bi Directional motor board it still wasn't working. After further checking I discovered that the connector for the motor wasn't making good contact, the female pins had opened up a bit inside the housing. Glad to have it all working again. pics attached of the old board.

Thanks to everyone, especially pinball_faz for the assistance with this issue.

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#4861 29 days ago
Quoted from Jasonba:

Hi guys,
I finally got around to fixing the problem with my motor not working. After fitting the new Bi Directional motor board it still wasn't working. After further checking I discovered that the connector for the motor wasn't making good contact, the female pins had opened up a bit inside the housing. Glad to have it all working again. pics attached of the old board.
Thanks to everyone, especially pinball_faz for the assistance with this issue.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Definitely a toasty board.

#4862 28 days ago
Quoted from Jasonba:

Hi guys,
I finally got around to fixing the problem with my motor not working. After fitting the new Bi Directional motor board it still wasn't working. After further checking I discovered that the connector for the motor wasn't making good contact, the female pins had opened up a bit inside the housing. Glad to have it all working again. pics attached of the old board.
Thanks to everyone, especially pinball_faz for the assistance with this issue.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice to see it is all fixed, great job on the repair!

1 week later
#4863 16 days ago

Back in the club again after an 8 year hiatus. I grew up watching the show with my grandfather so the theme has always meant a lot to me. I am hoping this one never leaves. It's a very nice example, that I was able to pick up locally. The previous owner had it for 25 years and maintained it (which as we know is not the norm for non pinheads).

It's probably one of the first pins I've picked up I haven't had do a ton of work on. I just need to grab a handful of Titans and install some LED's in the GI and I am good to go. I overpaid a bit, but it was worth it.

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#4864 16 days ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Back in the club again after an 8 year hiatus. I grew up watching the show with my grandfather so the theme has always meant a lot to me. I am hoping this one never leaves. It's a very nice example, that I was able to pick up locally. The previous owner had it for 25 years and maintained it (which as we know is not the norm for non pinheads).
It's probably one of the first pins I've picked up I haven't had do a ton of work on. I just need to grab a handful of Titans and install some LED's in the GI and I am good to go. I overpaid a bit, but it was worth it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

That game looks great!

#4865 16 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

That game looks great!

I'll post some more pics when I get it setup at home. That pic was from the seller's place. It is very clean and has some left side fade as it was in front of a window. No mini PF protector, but I'll order one up ASAP.

#4866 14 days ago

Some pics of this week's grab. The seller was absolutely fantastic and meticulous. He literally had a binder with all of the bulletin, manuals, etc. The cab is in great shape and all around pretty dang clean. It has left side fade because it was in front of a window. This is definitely a keeper. Sadly because of my low ceiling clearance I had to temporarily remove the topper.

I apologize for the mess in the basement, I am in the process of doing a full playfield tear down on my friend's TZ and had no intention of picking up a cab this week.

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#4867 13 days ago

How much did you pay for that, if you don't mind me asking? I'm looking at buying one, but I know I'm overpaying.

#4868 12 days ago

Loving my Doctor Who if only because it’s Tardis level need for tinkering and adjustment looks to be my gateway into learning pinball repair.

Went to install my new led ocd and noticed that the connector at J120 was looking crispy. Haven’t noticed any effect on gameplay but wonder if this might be why my lock light on top of the time expander won’t light.

Guess I will be learning how to re-pin a connector before I go any further.

In the meantime, any ideas what this might effect? How this might have happened? Am I going to burn down the house or (worse) the machine if I keep playing while I wait for parts?

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#4869 11 days ago
Quoted from chrismillsmusic:

Loving my Doctor Who if only because it’s Tardis level need for tinkering and adjustment looks to be my gateway into learning pinball repair.
Went to install my new led ocd and noticed that the connector at J120 was looking crispy. Haven’t noticed any effect on gameplay but wonder if this might be why my lock light on top of the time expander won’t light.
Guess I will be learning how to re-pin a connector before I go any further.
In the meantime, any ideas what this might effect? How this might have happened? Am I going to burn down the house or (worse) the machine if I keep playing while I wait for parts?[quoted image][quoted image]

Its normal. The GI lighting connectors are a bit over amped from the factory and run hot. They are always burned.

It wont catch fire.

A proper repair involves replacing the burned header pins on the pc board with new black high temp ones.

Inspect the pins on the board for looseness or burns.

They can be refowed with fresh solder if loose, and pins buffed off with a dremel wire wheel if not too bad.

Replace any of the "wire side" burned connectors with new housings and trifurcon pins.

You should be ok.

Check the socket in the in the plastic cover of the time expander for looseness and corrosion or a dead bulb. Follow its wire to its connector and inspect it.

The bulb cover should be yellow.

#4870 11 days ago
Quoted from chrismillsmusic:

Loving my Doctor Who if only because it’s Tardis level need for tinkering and adjustment looks to be my gateway into learning pinball repair.
Went to install my new led ocd and noticed that the connector at J120 was looking crispy. Haven’t noticed any effect on gameplay but wonder if this might be why my lock light on top of the time expander won’t light.
Guess I will be learning how to re-pin a connector before I go any further.
In the meantime, any ideas what this might effect? How this might have happened? Am I going to burn down the house or (worse) the machine if I keep playing while I wait for parts?[quoted image][quoted image]

This game also needs the GIOCD due to the dimming effects if it has all LEDs in the back box and GI circuits and flashers.

My game is 100% led, i have both systems installed.

As well as colorDMD led version and pinsound+ with motion control and shaker.

Its a nice set up and adds a lot to the game.

#4871 11 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

This game also needs the GIOCD due to the dimming effects if it has all LEDs in the back box and GI circuits and flashers.
My game is 100% led, i have both systems installed.
As well as colorDMD led version and pinsound+ with motion control and shaker.
Its a nice set up and adds a lot to the game.

How do you have your PCBs mounted for those upgrades (I've got a pinsound on the way, too!)? My back box appears jam packed, but I'm still just learning where everything is.

#4872 11 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

This game also needs the GIOCD due to the dimming effects if it has all LEDs in the back box and GI circuits and flashers.
My game is 100% led, i have both systems installed.
As well as colorDMD led version and pinsound+ with motion control and shaker.
Its a nice set up and adds a lot to the game.

What pinsound items do I need? Just the basic board? The modern mix youtube video I've seen looks absolutely incredible.

#4873 11 days ago
Quoted from chrismillsmusic:

How do you have your PCBs mounted for those upgrades (I've got a pinsound on the way, too!)? My back box appears jam packed, but I'm still just learning where everything is.

It gets pretty packed in the back box, but everything fits well enough.

The LEDOCD red cable is a little short so partially mount the board on the floor of the backbox as shown with the cable connected to get it to fit right.

Its ok if one of the screws to the right are left out.

Plenty of room for the GIOCD on the lower left wall just above the metal bracket as shown in the instructions.
Make sure its away from the back wall enough to get the cables on it and not interfere with the CPU board or the light board..

Mount the pinsound motion control board on the upper right side wall as shown in the instructions, all the way snugged up and rouching the back wall or the light board will hit it.

get the cables routed first so you know where it will fit.

#4874 11 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

What pinsound items do I need? Just the basic board? The modern mix youtube video I've seen looks absolutely incredible.

pinsound plus, motion control with shaker and upgraded speakers. The Flipper fidelity speaker kit installs the easiest and is about the same price as the pinball pro kit.

Get the pinsound plus stereo cable harness from flipper fidelity when you order the speakers.

The 4 mixes I like are:

13 doctors
classic mix
doctorin the tardis
modern mix

you can add more if you like!

#4875 11 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

pinsound plus, motion control with shaker and upgraded speakers. Flipper fidelity install the easiest and are about the same price as the pinball pro ones.
Get the pinsound plus stereo cable harness from flipper fidelity when you order the speakers.
The 4 mixes I like are:
13 doctors
classic mix
doctorin the tardis
modern mix
you can add more if you like!

Hold up. I dont want to do new speakers. I just want the updated sounds. So is the plus board enough to get me off the ground? And does anyone have the 13 doctors mix up anywhere to see on YouTube?

#4876 11 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It gets pretty packed in the back box, but everything fits well enough.
The LEDOCD red cable is a little short so partially mount the board on the floor of the backbox as shown with the cable connected to get it to fit right.
Its ok if one of the screws to the right are left out.
Plenty of room for the GIOCD on the lower left wall just above the metal bracket as shown in the instructions.
Make sure its away from the back wall enough to get the cables on it and not interfere with the CPU board or the light board..
Mount the pinsound motion control board on the upper right side wall as shown in the instructions, all the way snugged up and rouching the back wall or the light board will hit it.
get the cables routed first so you know where it will fit.

Awesome! When you get a chance, can you post some pictures?

#4877 11 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It gets pretty packed in the back box, but everything fits well enough.
The LEDOCD red cable is a little short so partially mount the board on the floor of the backbox as shown with the cable connected to get it to fit right.
Its ok if one of the screws to the right are left out.
Plenty of room for the GIOCD on the lower left wall just above the metal bracket as shown in the instructions.
Make sure its away from the back wall enough to get the cables on it and not interfere with the CPU board or the light board..
Mount the pinsound motion control board on the upper right side wall as shown in the instructions, all the way snugged up and rouching the back wall or the light board will hit it.
get the cables routed first so you know where it will fit.

Thanks for the info. This is incredibly helpful!

#4878 11 days ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Awesome! When you get a chance, can you post some pictures?

already in this thread search for my posts.

#4879 11 days ago

My time expander is getting sluggish when it moves. Looks like it it time to finally take it out, clean it, and lubricate the slides.

#4880 10 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

My time expander is getting sluggish when it moves. Looks like it it time to finally take it out, clean it, and lubricate the slides.

Is it moving slowly or rocking back and forth a lot.

Given the amount of torque that motor can push, I'd guess you're having more of a binding problem. When you pull it, check for center on the cam and look at the amount of slop on the brackets both can lead to binding. Also any obvious rubbing of the MPF on the main playfield (make sure it's centered).

If you have a lot of slop the canting procedure (Clamps) can help or add some UHMW plastic strips in the bracket to take up the space.

faz

#4881 10 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

My time expander is getting sluggish when it moves. Looks like it it time to finally take it out, clean it, and lubricate the slides.

I found a lot of caked on dried white grease on mine on the slides and rollers. Then there was a black grease as well. Clean all the grease off. I used brake cleaner and small wire brush. Then only use spray silicon grease lightly. on rollers.

#4882 10 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

dried white grease

Yea that lithium grease turns to concrete. I put it on mine before Cliffy set me straight... I STILL have some remnants .. it just won't fully come off. Never tried brake cleaning fluid... next time I pull the MPF I will give that a shot (hopefully a long time ).

#4883 10 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

I found a lot of caked on dried white grease on mine on the slides and rollers. Then there was a black grease as well. Clean all the grease off. I used brake cleaner and small wire brush. Then only use spray silicon grease lightly. on rollers.

Clear silicone grease or grease infused with teflon:

amazon.com link »

It never dries out.

Also scuba regulator grease is very good but pricey.

I know that people say never to put any oils or lubricants on a pinball game.

But Williams technical wants operators to add a drop on any hinge bearings that wear, like sling bearings or the ones that are pinned with an e-clip, as well as spinning targets.

Use a super-lube pen oiler, just a tiny drop in most cases to lubricate a fight corrosion. I dries out and leaves a vey effective coating on metallic surfaces.

I put it on all bearings during my restorations.

Apply it, and then wipe it on then "off" when installing shooter rods. It helps the new sleeve to settle down.

Again, less is more with this, a tiny drop then wipe off.

amazon.com link »

#4884 10 days ago

I haven't noticed any wobbling of the expander. Just been getting slower. I'm sure it is the grease turning solid. I'm going to make a point to dig into it more this weekend.

#4885 10 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I haven't noticed any wobbling of the expander. Just been getting slower. I'm sure it is the grease turning solid. I'm going to make a point to dig into it more this weekend.

Remove the MPF from the frame, cover the cam optos.

Hold it over a trash can and douse the frame and rollers with brakleen.

Re-lube it, clean the wire contacts and optos, you should be good to go unless the motor and gearbox is getting weak and giving out.

Sometimes the gearbox has hardened grease in it that robs the motor of its power. It also can be cleaned out and re-lubed.

My gearbox was stripped out so I replaced it. It game with a new motor that was wired reverse of the original of course!

#4886 10 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I haven't noticed any wobbling of the expander. Just been getting slower.

take a video of the action before you futz with it. I'd like to see how slow... "slow" is.

Just run it up/down in test mode for 3-4 times.
faz

#4887 9 days ago

Christmas in July for my Doctor Who Pinball!!! It is the white package in the middle of playfields. It is from France. Thanks Pinballreno for recommending it.

The spare playfield on the left is on loan from Wick. The NOS playfield on the right has just had several coats of Poly on the back of the playfield and is curing (per Kruzman recco). I am going to copy the post holes, GI holes, board holes, coils and flippers holes onto some thin plexi=glass. Then drill the holes into the Plexi. Lastly, transfer the holes in a dimple procedure onto the NOS playfield. None of the inserts are sunk and the PF has its original Diamond Plate clear.

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#4888 9 days ago

My July present is of course a :shaker". It is successfully installed. Great easy instructions! I have it set on the factory gentle setting, to get used to the rumble. Of course I have questions from other users.... Like what setting do you use most often? (Light, Medium or Hard). Do different music settings on the Pinsound+ cause different rumbles? Did anyone customize the rumbling settings when they made the custom music files? I am trying to get a feel of when the rumbles come during play. I just scored my highest score with 3 balls. 941,575,170. I also made it up to level 11 on the video screen. This game is amazing, the more I play it and the more features that I install on it.

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#4889 9 days ago

Delete duplicate post

#4890 8 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

My July present is of course a :shaker". It is successfully installed. Great easy instructions! I have it set on the factory gentle setting, to get used to the rumble. Of course I have questions from other users.... Like what setting do you use most often? (Light, Medium or Hard). Do different music settings on the Pinsound+ cause different rumbles? Did anyone customize the rumbling settings when they made the custom music files? I am trying to get a feel of when the rumbles come during play. I just scored my highest score with 3 balls. 941,575,170. I also made it up to level 11 on the video screen. This game is amazing, the more I play it and the more features that I install on it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The built in shaker settings are pretty much perfect on the pinsound ROM.

#4891 8 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

Christmas in July for my Doctor Who Pinball!!! It is the white package in the middle of playfields. It is from France. Thanks Pinballreno for recommending it.
The spare playfield on the left is on loan from Wick. The NOS playfield on the right has just had several coats of Poly on the back of the playfield and is curing (per Kruzman recco). I am going to copy the post holes, GI holes, board holes, coils and flippers holes onto some thin plexi=glass. Then drill the holes into the Plexi. Lastly, transfer the holes in a dimple procedure onto the NOS playfield. None of the inserts are sunk and the PF has its original Diamond Plate clear.
[quoted image]

Clamp a used original playfield on top of the new playfield to check the holes.

Drill thru the original playfield using it as a guide.

Always run the drill backwards to avoid chipping the clearcoat.

Tape parchment paper to the original playfiled back side.

Draw out all the mech locations.
Punch thru the hole locations and mark them with a sharpie.

Tape the parchment paper to the new playfield and dimple or punch with a center punch any non dimpled holes or reinforce the existing dimples with a firmer punching.

Then you should be good to go.

Write on the parchment any notes you you need.
ITs helpful to draw outlines of the mechs with a pencil on the old playfield before you remove them.

I draw around everything including the subway, everything including the t-nuts and wire stand-offs.

I even write wire colors for the mechs and their loctions.

Its really helpful to have this reference when re-assembling

#4892 8 days ago

Back in the club. One of my favorite games ever, if not THE favorite.

Question: is there not any way to have the game not increase the volume during "intense" parts? Is there a setting I just don't see? Also, those with pinsound: does this volume thing happen there, or does the pinsound override this "feature?"

Also: has anyone had a ball fly off the side ramp and into the back of the machine and inside the bottom?!?! I've never had that happen ever, but it just did for me. Ball literally went into the bottom of the machine!

20210724_181308 (resized).jpg

#4893 8 days ago
Quoted from jorant:Back in the club. One of my favorite games ever, if not THE favorite.
Question: is there not any way to have the game not increase the volume during "intense" parts? Is there a setting I just don't see? Also, those with pinsound: does this volume thing happen there, or does the pinsound override this "feature?"
Also: has anyone had a ball fly off the side ramp and into the back of the machine and inside the bottom?!?! I've never had that happen ever, but it just did for me. Ball literally went into the bottom of the machine!
[quoted image]

love this game. Pinsound does help, but I don’t usually play with the original soundtrack, the music drives me crazy afte a while - the more recent soundtracks just sound so much better, if only for the variation.

Yes, have had the ball drop into the bottom of the machine, but only on the first DW I owned, it may be game specific. Happened at least twice, I never figured out exactly why

#4894 8 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

love this game. Pinsound does help, but I don’t usually play with the original soundtrack, the music drives me crazy afte a while - the more recent soundtracks just sound so much better, if only for the variation.

But the sound volume getting louder... does pinsound do that, or does it stop that from happening? Or is there a setting to disable that?

#4895 8 days ago

Only had one ball fly into the hole in the back of the pinball and into the cabinet. Not sure how it happened.

With Pinsound, I think you can manipulate the sound volume issues. But you will have to download there program and understand the software. Something I have not done and am probably not smart enough to get through. Just saying.

If you have a problem with loud music or callouts, you could just lower the overall volume at the coin door buttons. I play mine at level 10. I can't imagine how annoyed you would be with the custom Metal sound tract. Blazing Guitar riffs, intensify at critical times. Love it. Doctorin the Tardis is great too. I play 13 Doctors the most though. Great callouts that are clear and on point with what part of the game you are playing. Hearing Sara Jane say "It's YOU! melts my heart every time. My wife however, does not like hearing Christopher Eccelson shout, "WHY DON"T YOU JUST DIE!" But I do.

Some sound tracks are louder than others. But then again, I like Rush and Hendrix cranked up on my new 3 stereo speakers. Plus, now I am getting vibrations from the shaker at critical times. MMMMMM, MMMMMM, MMMMMM.

#4896 7 days ago

Hmmmm, al of this talk about pinsound has me really curious now. Not something I would have ever considered, but it sounds pretty cool.

#4897 7 days ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Hmmmm, al of this talk about pinsound has me really curious now. Not something I would have ever considered, but it sounds pretty cool.

Pinsound adds control over the audio as well as different sound tracks that can be changed out on the fly.

I have 4 different orchestrations on my game as well as the original sounds and call outs.

However I usually run the 13 doctors mix the most.

When people come over they ask for the doctorin the tardis mix, its really fun.

With the headphone station added on, you can change the orchestration without even opening the coin door.

Without the $50 headphone station, you open the coin door and simply lower the volume to zero and raise it back up. The pinsound will play a little chine sound to let you know the sounds have been changed over.

Pinsound also allows you to add their motion control with shaker motor, that really enhances the game.

On Doctor Who there is no need to program shaker routines, they are built into the pinsound firmware itself.

So, the motion contol is about a 30 to 45 min install (the backbox pc-board install is super easy, but you have to mount the shaker in the lower cabinet. Basically drill 4 holes using the provided template and bolt it in) and you automatically have shakers!

One of the nicest Pinsound things, is the ability to add a boot up sound or call out that plays when the game is ready to play.

I have made them up for all my pinsound enhanced games.

The doctor Who one (that I posted a link to in this thread) is exceptional, I think.

#4898 7 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

But the sound volume getting louder... does pinsound do that, or does it stop that from happening? Or is there a setting to disable that?

Pinsound tracks are mostly normalized now and big volume changes are controlled.

But its very easy to alter the global volume settings on the pinsound via the pinsound studio software package.

Or even change the volume of just a few files to suit your needs.

It only took me about 10 minutes to install and begin editing sounds that I felt needed adjusting.

#4899 7 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Pinsound tracks are mostly normalized now and big volume changes are controlled.
But its very easy to alter the global volume settings on the pinsound via the pinsound studio software package.
Or even change the volume of just a few files to suit your needs.
It only took me about 10 minutes to install and begin editing sounds that I felt needed adjusting.

Could I bother you to post a 13 doctors mix gameplay video? Even just a minute's worth would do.

#4900 7 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

I play 13 Doctors the most though.

I do too, its seems the best over all.

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