rotating the deflectors has less effect than what you would think.

I have bent them all sorts of directions and had fair results, nothing perfect.

Using the manual as a guide, I had better results.

Right now the balls generally go to the left flipper, which is ok.

I have had them cross each other to go left and right but, this just wasnt consistant.

Either way its not really that important.

People just let the balls drain in order to line up shots on the right flipper. Its way more efficient.

I myself get stdm a fair amount of times, then get a mixed bag to the right or left, so I stopped adjusting the deflectors.

A combination of bending the backstops and the siderails a bit here and there plus 2 hours of work yields somewhat fair results.

Also playfield pitch is a factor.

The ideal pitch is set when a cradled ball on the left flipper can just make straight up, thru the video lane and thru the pops. not particularly fast but makes it fairly easily.

Had my best game ever on DW last night. 2.4 billion. I haven't had a good game on there in forever. It's got me wanting to skip work and play pinball!

As stated above, you can get them to angle to the flippers but a really good strategy is to just let the two balls drain as they are ejected (you don't lose them). Then they get served up one at a time. So, rather than a three ball fury, you have a single ball at a time shooting exactly at the target you want (if you are good... me, I usually mess it up but my INTENT is awesome
faz

LOL. I am going to start saying that when the wife yells at me.

Could one of you knowledgeable pin people, please tell me what the test report means by "examine left jet bumper switch". I know that it means the left rear round red pop bumper. I looked at it. The wires are attached to the coil. It slides freely up and down. It is an intermittent fault.

Otherwise, on a happier note, I finished my rebuild/restore/redecal/repainted of my first pinball. It looks great. It plays great. Thanks for all the help here that got me to this point!

Leaf switch might be gapped too close causing intermittant shorts? If its shorted the game tuns it off and gives an error. The proper gap is 1/16" but I like them about 1/32 to 1/64", very close but not shorting. It takes a bit to dial them in. Game vibration can cause them to short if they're too close.

Does the solenoid test activate it? How do the pop bumpers work "in game"?

Adjust them with power off or you will blow fuses, diodes and transistors.

Thank you. I have been researching pop bumpers and understand what you are saying. With the credit dot error on, that pop bumper does not "pop". But the other 2 do. I tried looking at the leaf switch on the offending one, but it is in the very bottom of the cabinet and the coil holder is upside down, so I can not see anything, unlike the other two which are pointing upward. This will require pulling it out. Which means the upper ramp must be removed and all the things I just installed. Not whining but frustrated. The right rear pop bumper is missing a nut on the ring. It is actually broken off, so that I can not just put another nut on. Soooo, it looks like I will be ordering pop bumper parts. Setting the gap is like gapping points on a 1960s and earlier car. Been there, done that. Have the feeler gauge, so appreciate the gap numbers.

Attached is a picture of my coin door. It is way cool, in the dark with the coin return Tardis light up.

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I got my highest score so far! I am so happy with the mods and new decals. The expensive moving Dalek Head during video mode in color on The DMD, yelling Exterminate over the stereo speakers that are lit up. Sara Jane Smith saying "Its YOU". A cow showing up on the screen. The Emperor Dalek shooting the Supreme Dalek and then killing the pink Dalek Brain crawling across the screen. Some many layers to this onion. Love it.

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Nice score!

Glad you are enjoying the 13 doctors mix.

Flipper upgrade. I got to see what a mushroomed stop and plunger look like too. The only tricky parts were putting that little spring on. Glad that I read about that hole behind the flipper to align it. I even used a Marcos thickness gauge to get the right height off the playfield.

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Thanks to Rdoyle1978 for his tips on modifying a USB Tardis to replace the cheaper original one. I think it looks a lot better. I also mounted a Red Dalek over the shooter lane, pointing towards the Tardis. You probably can not tell, but I also installed small red Dalek Band holders every where I could. The Swinks/Shapeways Who Mobile is on order to replace the black plastic microswitch covers.

On another note, I am midway on replacing broken pop bumpers with all new parts. Using Vids guide has helped with parts from Marcos and Pinball Life.

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Fantastic! You can also order a K-9 toy that fits perfectly over the switch covers, in lieu of one of the Whomobiles. where did you get the red Daleks from?

This is wrong. put the boot.wav in the audio folder that holds your orchestrations, NOT the root of the USB stick.

Dont put it in any of the other folders inside the folder, just lay it at the bottom of the audio folder.

Sorry for the confusion.

It says this on the pinsound help site regarding startup sounds.

The boot.wav should not be present in the folder unless you put one in there.

You might see all of the orchestrations you might have added in their separate folders within this audio folder.

Just copy/paste the boot.wav to the audio folder by itself (not in any of the other folders) and it should play when the game is started.

boot.wav is here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wlzR5tyMqUbMFzuNd9ZMHpyeinFM87Vh/view?usp=sharing

Properly inserted, it should look like this:
It will work!
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AND Pinside is back! In the meantime, I was able to follow VIDS tips on replacing Pop (or Jet) bumpers. The left side shows the probably original parts (green Williams coils). Note the broken metal yoke on a working pop bumper on the left. Note the broken stud on the bottom of the ring on the middle working pop bumper. The right pop bumper was not working and giving a check switch error. All the parts on it were ok. Strange that two of the Rings had washers at the top of the threads, but I did not see any in the diagrams in the manual or on Marcos site. During the test mode, all 3 coils fired. In switch test, the right one did not activate the coil. Being new at this, I decided to replace all the parts of all 3. That is the bottom picture, with the parts spread out awaiting to be installed.

I would change up the order of the VID Pop Bumper instructions though. I found that it was easier to un-staple and unsolder the lamp metal leads, once the coils and spoon switches are removed. This job would have been a lot easier if the playfield was out. But when I was rebuilding the cabinet and the playfield was out, is when this error occurred. It turns out that I could have probably fixed the initial problem by adjusting the spoon leaf switch. I probably got closed when playfield was out. Oh well, I have new parts in now, and boy do my pop bumpers pop now. Transmat score goes up quickly as the ball bounces back and forth like a machine gun.....
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AND it finally worked!!! Thanks for the guide for dummies. LOL.

YAY!

I really think it adds a lot!

So after reading all the horror stories about battery leakage, I decided to get a different solution. Noquartersarcade.com had a solution to the problem. It was fairly cheap and easy to install, once I watched the Youtube video that he provided a link to. I also have found that using a fine tip on the weller soldering iron works better than the screw driver tip for working on boards. I have been changing out the Tantulum Capacitors on the original Sound board. Even though I don't need it with the Pinsound in. Maybe someone will want it someday.

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You'll want to put at least a piece of electrical tape or similar to cover that open EPROM window. That will help prevent UV exposure that will start to erase bits in that chip.

The coin cells are definitely a better option and less likely to leak than the AA batteries. My preference is to go with NVRAM first but I have used coin cells on some games.

Franks battety fix works petfectly.

Its especially nice for games that have midnight madness modes, or use the clock like TZ.

Great choice if not going for NVRAM.

https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/

Guess who scored probably the last NOS Playfield and from Ron Kruzman. It came from an employee that retired from Bally williams, and programed the CNC machine. He kept one of each of the titles he worked on. It is from early production, but not early enough to have a solid brown coat on Doctor #3. I have read about the early machines but have not seen a picture of one.

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Nice score! You going to install it in a game?

Wow that’s a grab!

Has anyone done DW repro PFs? I know licensing is a thing there but I can imagine something like this is a big piece of the puzzle.

CPR are going to reproduce these you can put your name on the waiting list

Of course. well maybe... I need to get one of those rotisserie carts first. And more room in my garage. Ron advised me to sand and clear coat the back and let it cure for about a month. I will play the hell out of the current playfield till I am ready. If only I had a spare playfield wire harness, to begin the process. I hear the Dalek taunting me to come back an play....

Yes, CPR told me that they were going to reproduce the playfield. But then, you would have to send it off to someone like Kruzman to get it cleared, and that is a long wait. Like next year by the time CPR does it and then the clear gets cured. Also it will always be a repro, and not a NOS playfield. There is apparently a difference. Having had a difficulty getting the CPR Mini-playfield to fit (had to trim the front about 4mm), plus some of the holes did not line up either, not impressed. But if that is all that is available, you make do. Alter, adjust, trim, redrill.

That playfield needs a bit of restoration to be useable:

Clearcoating, key lining, address the sunken inserts, some minor touch-ups etc...

One of the problems with 30 year old playfields is the inserts get loose as the mastic glue dries out.
They should probably be removed, cleaned and then epoxied in, in order to last.

I would send it out for refurbishment, or just keep it as an amazing art piece!

How do you know this?

As bad as that, your description. I wasted good money then. Thought the diamond plate new playfield would have been better than the one same age I am playing on now with 29 years of wear.

It was announced, get on the list if you want one.

Its not bad, but Ive bought old NOS playfields before and they need a little TLC before putting them into service.

Still as it sits, its an amazing piece of history that collectors really want.

I would re-sell it and wait for the CPR if you want to play on it.

If it were me. I dont know if I would put it in a game, unless it was a very over the top restoration like my game.

I have $5500 in parts on top of the game purchase invested. But I wanted a brand new game, and thats what they cost.

I don't need one, its just that CPR used to have a "coming soon" thing on they're web-site but its not there anymore. Just curious to know how they notify people of future products.

CPR said they would be making these. The mini playfields are out of stock, so somethings doing on.

No word on whether Mirco will.

Im a buyer when they come out, Im looking for another DW for a friend to do a similar restore as mine.

That’s funny. I have a spare Dr Who wiring harness.

I wonder if it would be available....?

I just purchased a Doctor Who yesterday and I'm waiting for it to arrive.

Any initial tips, must dos, etc?

It doesn't have a ColorDMD so that's already on the list.

Thanks!

Play the crap out of it lol
I have ColorDMD, titans, and LEDs on mine. Not much else to do IMO
And congrats; it's a fun and pretty tough pin

Make sure the time expander is working 100%, it needs to be rock solid.

In terms of mods or protection, not really... but like Reno said, make sure the Time Expander is moving smoothly and the rails are clean... they can get gunked up with old grease and that can cause issues.

Get the LED version of the colorDMD.

I tried both side by side and the LED version looks better on this game.

Also its a direct fit replacement, no modification needed.

I'm going to give everything a full check today, everything seems like it is running smoothly after playing for an hour yesterday. It was shopped out before I bought it, so I'll be double checking that.

Really needs some cosmetics, touching up a few spots on the black on the head at a minimum. Decals are faded but I don't know if I want to go to the cost of replacing them yet.

The pinsound plus board and speakers are definitely worth it. The ability to change up the sound themes keeps the game fresh.

Plus you can add the shaker!

I am going to add a shaker next, once I get my allowance. Maybe I could mow a few hundred lawns....
Seriously, I am looking forward to adding it. Each upgrade, has enhanced the game to the next level. From what I understand, it plugs into my Pinsound+ board and someone has already figured out when the shaker takes off, based on events in the game. I see that it has 3 levels of shake. What setting are y'all most comfortable with?

The pinsound team of owners an enthusiasts have put together a near perfect shaker routine.

Its embedded into the firmware.

All you have to do is attach the motion control and shaker motor.

Its pretty awrsome!

There is one more mod.....

And i cant find the video for it

If only someone would make a kit of it...

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I would definitely install that!

New Expander kit?

No, its a light that i built for my old DW and a few friends. Turns on and off as the time expander goes to the 3rd level. I posted a very quick and crappy vid of it somewhere in this thread.

Its a pretty neat little mod. Once you see it in operation it is pretty cool.

Edit: post 1346 has the vid. Maybe gunstarhero can shoot a better one? My DW is long gone.