Sorry for the confusion on this. We were all beginners once. There is no shame in asking questions.

Just place the boot.wav on the root of the pinsound usb stick.

Not in any of the folders, just on the root of the usb drive. It will work.

If you dont have an existing boot.wav file on the drive, thats ok.

It just means that the pinsound startup sound is playing from the firmware.

When you add a boot.wav file to the root of the drive, the firmware plays that instead of the embedded sound.

So, again just place the boot.wav on the root of the drive it will work perfectly.

Pinsound documentation is always sketchy at best but with the help of pinside one can get a lot of knowledge on it.

The thread below can help you a lot, and you can ask any questions you might come up with:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tantrums-guide-to-pinsound

Nice Dr Who for sale in Ottawa if anyone is looking to join the club. Looks like it may have the original moving head.

It's the Mark Davidson wobble head that was made years ago and designed from the prototype moving head. Long discontinued.

EDIT: Not discontinued at all!!

Not discontinued, just a kinda get-em-while they last sorta thing as he makes up more kits.

He still makes them! In fact they are a bit more refined now:

https://www.basementarcade.com/For_Sale.html

Awesome! I had checked a few times and didn't seem like they would make them again.

they work great

Just what I needed to hear, seeing I own 3 Daleks. It will be fun to see how the UK Wobble Head compares to Basement arcade, side by side. Oh and the 4th Modern Dalek talking head too is coming.

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Got a link to it?

Not posted yet. I will later.

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Nice!!!!!!

yeah but unfortunately i need to make room.

And it's up for sale officially. Will be leaving the club soon.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1551058312

Good luck with the sale. Beautiful game.

Beautiful looking game! Good luck on the sale. I hope my game looks this good one day.

Looks great but over my budget for a Dr Who

Wrong country anyway

And in Cdn $

Thats a really good price!

Route trash is pushing $4000 now, lol

Well with NIB base editions going from $6k - $8k these days $4000 is a deal price.

Absolutely! Especially if its super nice like the listed one.

There I was, enjoying playing my DW pinball, with new Color DMD and Pinsound+ and stereo speakers. I was learning shots, loops, transmatting, etc. The ball started to get stuck in the left popper of the MPF, when there was already a ball in there. I could not initially figure it out and kept playing. Letting the find ball process try three times and then it would eject both balls. Several days later the MPF got stuck between level 2 and 3. I feared the worse. I wanted to keep enjoying my new pinball. But in the back of my mind, I knew, I had a completely rebuilt MPF sitting close by. Using the FAZ guide again, I carefully began removing parts, screws, and ramps to get to the MPF. I was finding missing screws, ESMs, also had flat head screws, and loose T nuts. I don't think anyone else has a 3 inch long machine screw holding the Dalek reset roller and MPF in place. The first and second pictures are showing the reason why two balls could occupy the left popper. It is also the reason for MPF jam. The third picture shows both MPF sitting side by side. With the intent to put the rebuilt one back in and start playing again.

I had ordered some side blades and thought it would be a good time to add them, seeing I had the plastic ramps out. While looking at the ramps, they were yellowed, cracked and the blue metal ramps had corrosion on them. So I ordered new ones of course. Need some guidance on reattaching the rivets to the stainless metal pieces to the plastic. Or should I use small screws and lock nuts?

I had received new metal glass rails when I got the machine, as the backbox had crashed down and dented them sometime in the past( as well as leaving lots of small glass squares everywhere). So I watched a Youtube video and proceeded to remove them. Good thing I had new ones, as I bent the hell out of the old ones prying them off that double sided original tape. That is when things snowballed out of control. See Picture 3 and 4.

With the side rails off, I could see the remnants of the bright red lines that the rest of the cabinet should be displaying. Another couple YOUTUBE videos later, I was shopping at the hardware store for a heat gun, GooGone, and scrapers. Between the snow we are having and COVID stay at home, I had time to be creative.

The thing that scares me most right now is that I only see people laying new decals on flat horizontal surfaces. That means, that I will have to unplug, unwire, unbolt the back box and the playfield. I will photograph everything. Make lots of notes. Label wires with tape. And pray, I don't mess it up. Wish me luck.

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I know some aren't fans of the original translite, but this looks very nice to me.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/doctorwho/

Good job Tophervette. I didn't lay my machine down to install side art. Just take your time and be careful.

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I really like the alt translite I chose, but that CPR mirrored backglass might be super nice.
I might get one.

I contacted CPR about the mirror back glass. I was also told that both the MPF and the whole playfield are scheduled to be made in the future. That is good news.

Dr. Who Dalek topper MOD from PinballToys.

SOLD!

Mod - For Sale

Dr. Who Dalek Topper MOD Kit Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “Bought kit but never installed it. I created plastic sheet brackets and cut out per instructions and they are included. https://www.pinballtoys.co.uk/?page_id=835 Shipping is FR...”

2021-02-24

Caro, MI

flyhigh

79 (OBO)

Archived after: 1 day

Viewed: 117 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Contributed to Pinside

Please, I need help from someone who has removed the playfield from the cabinet. I have separated the back box from the cabinet. I labeled all the connectors that went to the boards in the back box. The large grey tube and black tube of wires dropped into the back of cabinet. I see how I have to raise the playfield and lift it out. The MPF is already out, so it will weigh less. LOL. Tell me that they designed the game, so that there are no wires from the cabinet to the playfield. My fear is that when I lift the playfield up, there will be that one wire or bundle of wires that will not allow me to detach. and I will tear something up. I am guessing that the grey tube is playfield wires and that the black tube is cabinet.

On a happier note, my Backbox has new paint and decals. It looks sweet. Hoping all my notes, blue tape with board pin numbers, and manual will help to put it back together, like Humpty dumpty and all the kings horses and kings men.

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You should be good to go to remove playfield. Wires from playfield only go to the boards in the head.

Thanks Chrispink25 for the vote of confidence. I did want to be hanging mid air with playfield and wonder why I was stuck. I have already had 2 mishaps with wires. The new speaker terminal came off with the wire and a black wire to J118 also became un attached.

The Backbox has a sticker next to a post that grounded braid all runs too. It says to connect it to the ground under cabinet near the wing bolt. I do not see any ground braid near the underside of the wing bolt in the cabinet. I only see the ground braid of the cabinet running up to the two sides of the back metal vent.

I can extend that braid to the backbox, if that is what the warning label means. I did make sure the backbox ground braid went from that terminal in the bottom left to the metal plate that the boards attach to...

In the cabinet harness on the left side at the bottom of the cabinet, there is a ground braid that goes from the cabinet speaker, thru the harness and ends at the wing nut post in the backbox. It is not attached to the playfield.

This is often left disconnected but you will find the ground braid in the cabinet harness, and it should be reattached.

Its not in the playfield harness.

The playfield harness is 3 separate groups, GI lighting, switches and solenoids.

Typically the gray or smaller diameter tube is the cabinet harness with 2 bundles of wire (power bundle and cabinet switch/speaker and ground bundle) and the black tube has the other 3 harnesses.

The playfield harness is typically mounted with a nylon tie on the left side going into the backbox and not attached to the cabinet other than the nylon tie that supports it to take the pressure off the connectors.

Showed Dr. Who a little love today.
Clean and wax
New rubbers, star posts, post rubbers, & plastics
New coin door, chrome legs & levelers, cliffies

Thanks to JSB Pinball for the housecall!

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Nice clean looking game!

Thanks again! I found the ground braid in a clear plastic tube and it was not attached. I will make sure I attach it.

I lifted the play field out finally. Yes the two wire harnesses are separate, but they were so tangled and intertwined. But they had enough slack to put play field outside of cabinet, while I untangled. I vacumed the remaining playfield glass and wiped all the dust out of the cabinet. Ready for sanding, painting, and redecal.

Hey guys I need a little help with the Dalek topper flasher. It does not appear to work and I cant find a reference to it in the service manual. I have toggled through the flasher tests, and it doers not work their either.

Anyone know off the top of their head where this flasher ties into the board...maybe a pin number? Are there any known issues with this flasher?

Thanks

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Did you check the solenoids test?

It's right there in your list. #14.

"Anyone know off the top of their head where this flasher ties into the board...maybe a pin number? Are there any known issues with this flasher?"

If you are referring to the light bulb inside the Dalek Head, it is connected to 2 wires (white with organce stripe and an orange wire) that run into the top Backbox and turn left. They connect to the top of a small board in the upper left corner of the Backbox. See top of attached picture. The bottom of that board has a connector (J2) with 3 wires (black and two white with orange stripes) that drops down to the bottom of the Backbox. It gets +voltage from one connector and - ground (black wire) from another. Check the voltage of those wires and make sure they are connected. The Black ground recently came off on mine, when I was taping into the lower connector to power my wobble head Dalek.

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That upper left board is for the GI bulbs in the topper. The 5 bulbs in front of the Dalek. It is not for the flasher.

You are correct. My bad. The wires from the flasher go down to the bottom of back box.

You mean this? It's in the manual.

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And Bingo just what I needed. Thanks.

BTW I am ready to proclaim that this pin produces more "air-balls" than any other pin I have played. I thought my FH was the king of air-balls, but now the crown as switched to DW. Seems every ball that strikes the sleeves on the MPM take to the sky.

Anyone else agree with this?

Ghostbusters edges it out from the games I have owned in my opinion. That game had crazy airballs all the time. But yes, this game gets things flying with some snappy flippers. A missed loop ramp shoot from the upper flipper can send the ball flying too.

Are you sure the posts are perpendicular to the play field. If they are loose or cant to the side it may do that but that is not a problem for me.

Make sure the cliffy(s) are flat to the PF/MPF and that the MPF is level to the PF. Any of those may cause air-balls.
faz

That’s odd, my Doctor Who doesn’t have many air balls.... on the other hand, Williams IJ has crazy air balls off the 3 bank in the middle, they even added a shield and compensation for it in software lol. Hail to the king.

Maybe raise the playfield pitch a little, the ball is moving too fast.

Once I got my game dialed in the air-balls slowed down a lot.

But still, once in awhile, The Master gets beaned on the forehead !

Okay the mpf is a tad higher than the main pf. Surely there is something I can shim to lower the pf just a tad.

I dont really see any adjustment for the mpf height. Will look at it closer tonight.

Take a look very closely at the mini playfield - I had one like this, and I ended up disassembling the miniplayfield anyway in order to clean it up and repair it, and I found all kinds of washers all over the place "realigning" things, but in reality they just distorted the whole thing, resulting in weird angles everywhere

I agree, if its installed correctly, it should be close to level with the playfield.

After rebuilding mine it eas pretty much dead on level with the playfield.

There's got to be washers installed somewhere.

Okay I installed a single very large fender washer beteen the motor bracket and the mpf frame. Only took 5 minutes to do, and now the mpf is perfectly aligned to the main pf. And no more air-balls at all. Man what an improvement! I will post a pic tomorrow.

Hey guys a question about the ball kickouts from the mpf. Half of the time the balls go sdtm and drain. Whats the best solution for this? Maybe slight rotate the metal deflectors on the mpf?

1) check level of game and pitch

2) double check level and pitch

3) check MPF for anything that is modifying the path of the ball (for example mine used to catch a tiny bit on the metal at the front of the MPF, just enough to make it go wonky)

4) If all else fails, adjust deflectors

Look in the manual.

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