Finally had time to add Peter Capaldi to my pinsound 13 doctors orchestration!
there are only a couple, but they are fun.

download it from my google drive here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/17DSoKr7OnZVSv6KrQ14JJH-uilvntdPa/view?usp=sharing

its taking forever for pinsound to release files on their site, so ill host it until they release it.

let me know if there are any annoying things that should be fixed please!

thanks

Hey guys
I have a bunch of parts - was gonna list in the marketplace but thought I’d post here first
- main ramp
- side ramp
- mini pf ramp
- up kicker wire form / habitrail
- full set of cliffys
- original mini pf motor, tested with a 9v battery and works
- original 5 opto boards and carrier
- motor driver board, inop, needs a rebuild
- set of decals

Would like to sell as a lot for $400. Local to Boston would be ideal because of the size of the ramp but if you want it shipped that is for sure doable.

Thanks...

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If anyone just wants the ramps I’d be in for the rest. I already have new ramps....

I've played a few games with the new mix and haven't noticed any issues. I haven't heard him yet, so do you know at what points there are Capaldi clips?

It will be pretty deep into the game.

One is "youre an idiot"

The other is "ill hit you with my shoe"

Im working on a couple more, it just takes time.

Thanks for your input!

I thought I'd report back, especially on the MPF mushrooms optos. The left one wasn't working and I finally had time to pull off the MPF for the first time this weekend (thanks for your guide Faz!).

When reading this topic I bumped into this 3D opto cover (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2387162) and thought I'd give it a try after I found someone who agreed to print me one for less than $8. It's not completely plug & play as screw holes must to be drilled on the sides, but that's fairly easy to do. So I installed the opto cover along with a set of new Pindorabox boards (the previous ones were hacked up) and I'm happy to report all the optos are now working perfectly. No issues with the Pindorabox leds being longer, none of the mushroom is getting blocked. Let's see if it lasts! I also polished all the metal parts and leds and silicon rubbers are on their way.

As you can see, I also installed Cliffy protectors. Unfortunately, they're causing pretty significant airballs. One thing I didn't do but will in the near future is elongate the bracket holes to allow for more clearance, but I'm not sure it will solve the airballs issue as I'm pretty sure it's the "first" Cliffy protector (the one laying on the actual playfield) that's causing them. Anybody experienced that as well?

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It should fit pretty close.

If there is a serious legde and If balls are hitting the edge, you have to lower the mech a bit.

A small ledge 3/64" doesnt seem to matter over-all.

Lowering the mech takes a little investigation and some washers where needed.

I have my mini playfield with cliffy kit, level with the playfield cliffy.

Im not getting airballs off it.

Its not uncommon to have balls hit the master in the forehead off the flippers or a bumper.

Should be joining the club Wednesday by buying a Dr Who from my friend unless he talks me into something else. Really looking forward to picking this up and getting a pinsound board/speaker upgrade to try out the great new audio options the pinball audio artists have created! Never watched much of the older doctor whos except maybe the fourth doctor, but have loved the 9th, 10th, and 11th doctor! Need to catch up on the 13th.

Get the pinsound and shaker.

Its amazing!

I hsve a pretty good mix going with the 13 doctors mix.

That will be top on my list. Never tried their shaker, but know of it from having a getaway pinball. Love pinsound and really want to try your mix!

The shaker has improved the game 10 fold.

Its so good, im putiing it on my funhouse.

Ok I picked up my first Doctor Who pinball today. (Excited since my favorite game space shuttle is the same designer) Game plays without hiccups from what I can tell except just noticed after bringing it home some LEDs are not lit in a few areas near the time expander, may just need to be reseated since they worked before the drive home. Cabinet is just ok with some scratches and chips in the plywood. I will eventually break it down and redo the cabinet, bondo etc and put new graphics on it. May favorite part of the hobby is doing restorations! Just need to start searching who has the Best decals. Any suggestions????

Playfield is in great condition but needs a deep cleaning. Ramps are ok, will probably get new ones, but my wife gave me the thumbs up in this pin, she likes it. It was 80% LEDed but will probably redo it to my liking. Topper is perfect and all boards are great looking.

All in all I’m excited to add this pin to my collection since I love the show and I look forward to restoring it as best as I can to perfection +1.

Happy I have the room to work on it in the game room till my new Avengers pins shows up sometime mid October.

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Welcome to the club. Great game but tough to beat.

Starting to break down my new game to clean, replace rubbers, Lights, and checking on the plastics. I noticed the long thin plastic by the pop bumpers is damaged. I can’t find them apparently except from Europe with a $140 shipping fee for a $10 plastic piece! Does anyone else make this plastic let alone a new complete set?? I already ordered replacement kicker plastics from Marco as well as plastic protectors from a fellow pinsider.

Thank you!

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Thats not too bad.

Depending on the level of restoration you intend, i might just live with it.

Other than that, complete plastic sets can be aquired.

Cabinet decals, on the other hand are hard or impossible to get right now.

OK, now after owning the pin for 1 day, it is inop.

Ok, I started to take the top side apart to clean and replace what needs it, and I noticed the mini play field covers a screw for the main ramp in the back of it. (now i realize it was just the metal guard around the mini play field) So I put the glass back on so the safety switch would be made and went into test mode and tried to raise the mini play field. No dice. I had the opto for the center ramp and the switch for the R/H ramp off so I thought maybe that was an issue. Plugged them in, nothing happening. Checked the fuses in the backbox and did not find any faults. Could my bi-directional board just decided to die??? With the game powered on, the bi-directional board LED is lit, is this a fault light or it all good light.

This is so frustrating, all excited about making this game look like new, and now I this! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jason

Oh man we’ve all been there! It’s discouraging. But wanting to play the game is also going to make you get in there and learn about it. It’s just part of the deal.

Light is a good thing, not a warning light. Not an absolute guarantee that every part is working but it’s a good thing

Have you found Faz’s guide yet?

No, what is Faz's guide? This is just an odd thing that just came out of the blue,

OK, just looked of Faz's guide on working on the play field, however it doesn't address it been inop.

Sorry, what was that?

Unless I missed something on Faz's guide on how to rebuild the time expander, the first step is to go into test and raise it to gain access to bolts, I didn't notice a trouble shooting guide. Since I have power to my bidirectional board with the LED on that board lit, maybe a transistor failed. Will check with a volt meter and see if it gives out 12 volts when I select to raise the time expander?

Ok, in test mode, I have my volt meter plugged into the connector that was going directly to the electric motor (it is disconnected from the motor). I get 19.26 volts DC going to the electric motor from the bidirectional board.

OK, at least now I really have an issue, not sure if the connection was failing, but after starting to hook my volt meter to the motor's connector, one of the wires fell off the motor itself. I checked them before, but who knows. Now to see with a mirror how this sucker comes out.

I ripped a wire of the motor too while working on it. It happens. Just re solder it to the motor.

YES!!!!!! Sorry to vent here about my stupidity but YEAH, it was the red wire, must have been just about to break off. Put a jumper on it and PRESTO, the play field moves again!!!! Now to do some upside down soldering if I can't readily pull the gear box assembly.

Thank you again for the info by Faz on the this play field. Will use it to make sure it is perfect!

Good, easy fix.

Most of us have had the exact same thing happen.

A good exercise is to familiarize yourself with the game.

Check all switches wirh a ball.

Carefully remove and replace things one at a time for cleaning and new rubber.

Check all the lamps, make sure they work etc.

Run thru the wiring harness and look for hacks, tape and cold solder joints on coil lugs.

Save yourself time and effort by installing molex connectors each time you inspect a part or assembly.

Great advice. Quick solder and now the time expander moves again. Now back to disassembly. and I will be doing things 1 at a time for sure.

No problem. That guide saved my butt multiple times too. And when I had a hard time with my miniplayfield, he studied videos of my time expander when I’d removed it from the game, and helped me fix it. The dude is a master. On my game it turned out that one of the MPF power wires goes through a flasher and has become disconnected.

Also, I believe the guide explains how to Remove the MPF so you can work on it - it’s not that hard, maybe takes 10 minutes tops.

Wow, I go dark on Pinside for the day and I miss all the fun. Glad you got it going
faz

Looking to do my third Pinsound orchestration for the Dr. Who. Any suggestions? I like to use specific band music if possible. Have done a Rush and Jimi Hendrix in the past. I may do a psychedelic remix using various music from the 60s. Was also thinking Radiohead or Foo Fighters. I think Radiohead has a lot of music without the vocal tracks so it may be a good choice. Let me know what you think may be a good option. Thanks.

Radiohead could be a good option!

This may be outside of your interests, but a Beastie Boys mix could be fun, and upbeat - the song Intergalactic comes to mind, for instance.

Thanks for your efforts!

Quick question,

Which is the correct size rubbers for the kickers? Manual says 2", but as I am replacing them, the old ones on there are 2.5". I know most games are 2.5", previous owner may have just had these and put them in? I have seen manuals wrong before, just checking.

Thank you

IMO a Radiohead mix will be kind of boring on a pin. How about Sabbath?

Or Ayreon/Star One:

If the 2" is too tight and the rubber thins out toi much, put a 2.5"

My funhouse also calls for 2" but 2.5 fits better.

Theres a 3.5" on my IJ under the ramp, but its way too tight. A 4" fits perfectly etc...

I always though some of the Rocky music would be cool.

Frank stallone did some great stuff there.

I actually already did a Black Sabbath/Ozzy orchestration for GnR on Pinsound. Not sure it would work well with Dr Who?

You can check it out here:

http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/270-pinballjah-gnr-ozzy-sabbath-mix/

Doctor Who decal I added recently on the mirror blades.

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Way cool!

OK, I got my game all back together again with new ramps and time expander cover. The thicker plastics on the new ramps make them a little more pissed off for sure going back to the original location.

My only error now is the opto switch 33 for the R/H center ramp. I don't think I was getting that error prior to disassembly and the opto board is new. I did take a que tip and attempted to clean them first. My questions is if the new ramp isn't just perfect with alignment, would this give me an open on those optos? Not sure on how sensitive they are, such as possible minor edge of hole is at the light sensor, but the ramp is clear so wouldn't the beam go through??

May be able to take off the inboard one and if I have enough wire get it closer to the other one, just to see if they work, or maybe they just decided to die? Kind of a bummer since this means I have to take off the the other ramp as well and that one was not happy going in.

Could just be a weak connection at the plug in cable..

Opto's can be a little sensitive to alignment, and edges can deflect light in odd ways.
Its best to have good clean openings for them to shine thru.

If you have mirrors, you might have to flip the optos around due to reflection, optos are actually quite bright. Have the transmitter shoot towards the inside of the game etc.

Test the opto pair before installing them onto the game.

After 30 years, Its probably good to just replace all of the opto's in the game.

Thats what I did, along with every single switch, they were driving me crazy with intermittent failures.

Ordered a new pair of optos just in case from Marco. Will see if this does the trick Verified connections, all seem to be good. just sucks to have to pull the ramps out again, oh well. at least everything else is working great. Will be sure to make sure they work before I bolt them and the ramps in!

Got to looking in the manual and it has a listing for voltage at the optos. So I verified I was getting 1.4 volts and 9 volts from transmitter and emitter when the switch was reading open. Started pulling the little opto board during test and than the switch said closed!!! Just figured out it was an alignment issue caused by the new ramps. Had to bend the metal bar the optos mount to and presto!! All is well. Guess I will have a nice new spare than for this pin once my order comes through. Never a bad thing to have back up parts on hand. No I can enjoy my new pin!!! Next up, pinsound and speaker upgrades in October! Maybe I can convince my wife to get me a color DMD for Christmas?!

Nice easy fix!

Alignment or cracked solder joints is hard to diagnose and get right.

Pinsound plus with a shaker is amazing!

I love mine.

I bought the colorLED version.

I tried the lcd version and it didn't work as well for me, on this game.

Also if you go color on the dmd with the LCD version you might want to get the 7 doctor led board.

Not required. You can mount the LCD panel higher on Dr Who. I had mine set up that way. After trying the LED version though I can confirm that I the LED look suits the game better.

Does the LCD make it tougher to get to the boards? The ColorDMD on my TAF always blocked the white door in the backbox

Yes it blocks the hinged panel. So when you want to access the boards you need to remove the speaker panel first. Just lay it face down. Still not the end of the world....

I notched out my light board in the backbox to accommodate the LCD on my ToM.

It just needed 1/2" of clearance around the screen.

If you dont have the shaker for the pinsound you are really missing out.

I absolutely love it!

And i really like my 13 doctors mix.