Doctor Who
Bally, 1992Quoted from eyeamred2u:Did @pinballreno use Ulf's kit? I know I did and I can't be happier. And if he did, he will do a fantastic job. We are all here to assist in any way possible.
I might have one on order. But mine is all brand new and works so well.
Ill give it 30,000 plays and check it again lol
Quoted from pinballinreno:Are you trying to kill me? lol
For me, the MPF was easy to rebuild with Ulf's kit. I had mine done in one day and that was before he made all the nice templates to help line up the holes. I did it old school machinist style. Measure once, drill and insert hardware
I decided to tackle my GI string problem. Thanks pinballinreno you were right on. My J120-1 was burned. I did check the fuses first (they were ok). I looked in the manual and noticed that the J120 connector and the J121 connector had been switched. I went to pinwiki and saw that on the power driver board the J120 and J121 are wired together so I guess it does not matter. The orange wire in J120-2 looked well seated but I pulled the brown and orange wires and reseated them into the connector and then switched J120 and J121 to correspond to the manual. The GI strings are back on!! Should I change out the burned connector? Are J120 and J121 the same? Makes me wonder since the orange wire looked fine.
IMG_4197 (resized).jpgIMG_4199 (resized).jpgQuoted from Docbeaks:I decided to tackle my GI string problem. Thanks pinballinreno you were right on. My J120-1 was burned. I did check the fuses first (they were ok). I looked in the manual and noticed that the J120 connector and the J121 connector had been switched. I went to pinwiki and saw that on the power driver board the J120 and J121 are wired together so I guess it does not matter. The orange wire in J120-2 looked well seated but I pulled the brown and orange wires and reseated them into the connector and then switched J120 and J121 to correspond to the manual. The GI strings are back on!! Should I change out the burned connector? Are J120 and J121 the same? Makes me wonder since the orange wire looked fine.[quoted image][quoted image]
Change the pins on the driver board with the black hi-temp
Pins.
Replace the idc wire connector for trifurcon.
Install all sunlight 2smd leds.
You should be good.
Quoted from pinballinreno:This could be a problem!
I ignored the labels on the boards and used a large hemostat to keep them aligned and then just soldered them on.
Also the boards I got are different, they have the red emitters.
One other person has them all working.
I wonder if he did what I did and just transferred the wires without looking at the labels on the boards?
This is what I did (pulled them one at a time from the original boards and transferred to the new ones). I did notice that the Pindora boards were screened wrong after I had transferred the wires...
Quoted from eyeamred2u:He actually says he removed the sleeves? I did not see that part
Actually, once I got them working, I did not bother to remove the sleeves. I imagine I could, but they're working, and I didn't want to tempt fate.
My MPF home opto wasn't working at all, and I finally figured out that I have a flaky connection on the small 2-wire Molex connector from the MPF to the harness. Everything checked good continuity from the opto to the connector, and from the other end of the connector to the 10-opto board, and from the 10-opto board to the backbox, but when I plugged it in, no continuity. I ordered new connectors from Ed at GPE, and also figured I'd get a few replacement opto LEDs and receivers as well. They arrived today, and I will continue working on my machine later this week when the weather is more suitable to work inside - too much to do outside right now!
I'm almost there, getting there slowly!
-Brian
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:This is what I did (pulled them one at a time from the original boards and transferred to the new ones). I did notice that the Pindora boards were screened wrong after I had transferred the wires...
Actually, once I got them working, I did not bother to remove the sleeves. I imagine I could, but they're working, and I didn't want to tempt fate.
My MPF home opto wasn't working at all, and I finally figured out that I have a flaky connection on the small 2-wire Molex connector from the MPF to the harness. Everything checked good continuity from the opto to the connector, and from the other end of the connector to the 10-opto board, and from the 10-opto board to the backbox, but when I plugged it in, no continuity. I ordered new connectors from Ed at GPE, and also figured I'd get a few replacement opto LEDs and receivers as well. They arrived today, and I will continue working on my machine later this week when the weather is more suitable to work inside - too much to do outside right now!
I'm almost there, getting there slowly!
-Brian
Thanks for the update !
Quoted from wolftownjeff:My lifter kit and replacement motor board are on the way.
This whole thread gives me a heart attack.
If I did not love this game I would run away.
My MFD works fine but I want to be ready to do a rebuild.
I am going to try and talk Pinballinreno to rebuild mine for me as he is the Dr Who master here.
LoL, this was my evil plan also!
Guys
I'm about to get my pindorabox motor driver and opto boards in the mail today after a 2 week "quarantine" in customs.
I am a little confused by the latest string of messages in this thread, but what I'm understanding is that if I transfer the wires one for one I should be good for both Tx and Rx. Is that true? Or should I do some bench testing of the boards first?
My OEM boards are working fine I think, but I just had the thought to replace the hard to get to opto boards while the MPF was all apart (I also replaced all the other singleton opto boards in the MPF as well as the coil sleeves and and and and....)
Quoted from Bospins:Guys
I'm about to get my pindorabox motor driver and opto boards in the mail today after a 2 week "quarantine" in customs.
I am a little confused by the latest string of messages in this thread, but what I'm understanding is that if I transfer the wires one for one I should be good for both Tx and Rx. Is that true? Or should I do some bench testing of the boards first?
My OEM boards are working fine I think, but I just had the thought to replace the hard to get to opto boards while the MPF was all apart (I also replaced all the other singleton opto boards in the MPF as well as the coil sleeves and and and and....)
I just tranferred them one by one exactly as they were.
I didn't even look at the writing on the boards.
Worked perfectly for me.
Dont get any solder blobs on the bottom, it tilts the board.
Getting the swinks opto carrier is a great touch for stability.
How is your 10 opto board?
Lots of people having trouble with those, as well as worn crispy 12 pin connectors and wire.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I just tranferred them one by one exactly as they were.
I didn't even look at the writing on the boards.
Worked perfectly for me.
Dont get any solder blobs on the bottom, it tilts the board.
Getting the swinks opto carrier is a great touch for stability.
How is your 10 opto board?
Lots of people having trouble with those, as well as worn crispy 12 pin connectors and wire.
I’ve had to do some repinning already ...
I have the swinks already, it’s loaded up with the mushrooms and the action is smooth.
I haven’t evaluated my 10 opto board for function but it looks ok...at least, the led comes on. Hopefully it functions 100%. I haven’t actually played a real game on this yet, bought it as a small project and haven’t had the time expander working at all yet ... 3 week delay by customs and shipping was annoying.
Quoted from Bospins:I’ve had to do some repinning already ...
I have the swinks already, it’s loaded up with the mushrooms and the action is smooth.
I haven’t evaluated my 10 opto board for function but it looks ok...at least, the led comes on. Hopefully it functions 100%. I haven’t actually played a real game on this yet, bought it as a small project and haven’t had the time expander working at all yet ... 3 week delay by customs and shipping was annoying.
I put a drop of superlube on the mushroom target shafts.
It dries in place and won't get gummy.
Thought I was out of the woods but now some of the leds don’t work but we’re working before on the opto carrier on the old boards. Going to wait for new LEDs and receivers from mousser to reconstruct this board with new components since I blew out the one LED on the new pindorabox board and don’t know the replacement part number yet. I did hear they are 940nm wavelength, not sure on any of the other specs though...
Quoted from Xantari:Thought I was out of the woods but now some of the leds don’t work but we’re working before on the opto carrier on the old boards. Going to wait for new LEDs and receivers from mousser to reconstruct this board with new components since I blew out the one LED on the new pindorabox board and don’t know the replacement part number yet. I did hear they are 940nm wavelength, not sure on any of the other specs though...
I ruined a whole set of opto boards by trimming the lenses down.
They are delicate.
Quoted from Xantari:Thought I was out of the woods but now some of the leds don’t work but we’re working before on the opto carrier on the old boards. Going to wait for new LEDs and receivers from mousser to reconstruct this board with new components since I blew out the one LED on the new pindorabox board and don’t know the replacement part number yet. I did hear they are 940nm wavelength, not sure on any of the other specs though...
As long as the emitter and receiver are the same wavelength they should work as a matched pair. The IR LED's should also specify the deflection angle. I would expect that a narrow beam would work better here.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:As long as the emitter and receiver are the same wavelength they should work as a matched pair. The IR LED's should also specify the deflection angle. I would expect that a narrow beam would work better here.
That is why Pindora changed the IR's. More reliable
20200122_111947 (resized).jpgCouple of small mods today, gave the topper the frosted blue look. Why in holy h3ll would the dome be fastened down with a security bit? Are these used anywhere else on the machine? Grr! Also added some new skirt cards. Shout out to my lil sis the graphic designer for laying them out and printing on multiple card stocks.
20200409_112121 (resized).jpg20200409_103635 (resized).jpgQuoted from Looney:Why in holy h3ll would the dome be fastened down with a security bit?
People kept stealing the dalek
Finally have my new wire so I can re run new wire and get this game back to working. Screw you brittle, resistance bitch ass wire
Made some changes to my modded Dalek.
Details in my all modding thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/doctor-who-dalek-mod-servo-rgb-and-super-bright-leds#post-5587592
Quoted from Looney:Ok, so topper theft must have affected several games, then? In America I didn't think DW was all that popular in the early 90s.
I was watching DW on WTTW (Chicago 11) every Sunday in the 70's/80's
Quoted from pinball_faz:I was watching DW on WTTW (Chicago 11) every Sunday in the 70's/80's
Oh the memories of pinball, then video games, what an awesome time the 70's and 80's were.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Oh the memories of pinball, then video games, what an awesome time the 70's and 80's were.
I still want a basement arcade dalek mod...
Quoted from Docbeaks:Are J120 and J121 the same?
Yes they are in parallel.
The IDC connectors have two sizes of connections.
You will notice that the larger gauge wire does not burn as easily
as the smaller 22 gauge wire. I would add larger wires to the connector
and then have those wires attached to the smaller gauge wires.
The IDC have a color code to the size of the gauge wires that the pins
are keyed too. eg red, green, orange.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I still want a basement arcade dalek mod...
Have you messaged them? Months ago he was able to get at least a couple of those kits together and posted on ebay. I snagged one and had posted the link earlier in this thread since he had another. Maybe he can get some more kits together. If not at least supply some of the parts.
It is really well done and supposed to match the original.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Have you messaged them? Months ago he was able to get at least a couple of those kits together and posted on ebay. I snagged one and had posted the link earlier in this thread since he had another. Maybe he can get some more kits together. If not at least supply some of the parts.
It is really well done and supposed to match the original.
Ill message him.
Question:
On my pindora opto boards I am getting the following readings.
13 volts on reciever lugs E1-5 Beam not broken
1.4 volts on transmitter lugs A1-5,which is the constant voltage.
I thought you only had 13 volts when the beams are broken on the reciever?
Am I wrong here?
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Question:
On my pindora opto boards I am getting the following readings.
13 volts on reciever lugs E1-5 Beam not broken
1.4 volts on transmitter lugs A1-5,which is the constant voltage.
I thought you only had 13 volts when the beams are broken on the reciever?
Am I wrong here?
1.4v doesnt seem right.
I though both sides were driven by 12v circuit?
Maybe pinball_faz can help here.
Quoted from Xantari:Anyone know where to get the "Lock" insert stickers for the mini playfield?
What happened?
Quoted from pinballinreno:1.4v doesnt seem right.
I though both sides were driven by 12v circuit?
Maybe pinball_faz can help here.
I thought it was just at the 5 lugs and the common have 12 volts?
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I thought it was just at the 5 lugs and the common have 12 volts?
Id have to check the schematic.
But if the input to ground is 12v then it sounds right?
I have no idea what its supposed to be between the lugs or at the LEDs themselves.
Its just that 1.4v doesnt seem strong enough, although they are receiver transistors...?
Is that just signal voltage?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Id have to check the schematic.
But if the input to ground is 12v then it sounds right?
I have no idea what its supposed to be between the lugs or at the LEDs themselves.
Its just that 1.4v doesnt seem strong enough, although they are receiver transistors...?
Is that just signal voltage?
Yes, the 1.4 is a constant on all optos normally
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Yes, the 1.4 is a constant on all optos normally
In that case it seems right. 0.95v is enough for a transistor's breakthough.
I never checked mine.
I am reading a post from Faz and he says that the LED's A1-5 and Pin 2 ( grey ) common should have 12 volts. If thats the case, mine is incorrect and the pindora boards are labeled wrong. I am going to solder them in reverse and see what happens
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I am reading a post from Faz and he says that the LED's A1-5 and Pin 2 ( grey ) common should have 12 volts. If thats the case, mine is incorrect and the pindora boards are labeled wrong. I am going to solder them in reverse and see what happens
I just matched them wire by wire to the originals with success.
Im trusting (stupid) that way...but ignorance is truly blissful 
I never looked at the screen printing lol.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I just matched them wire by wire to the originals with success.
Im trusting (stupid) that way...but ignorance is truly blissful
I never looked at the screen printing lol.
Solved!! It is Swink's opto carrier. My girlfriend asked me to put the original carrier on and all optos work now. THE swinks carrier interferes with the beam. There is an added shroud that inhibits the beam.
20200411_160957 (resized).jpg
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Solved!! It is Swink's opto carrier. My girlfriend asked me to put the original carrier on and all optos work now. THE swinks carrier interferes with the beam. There is an added shroud that inhibits the beam.
[quoted image]
I though so too at one point, but that wasnt the case, it was reflection.
before dremeling off the shroud, try shooting it with semi flat black paint on the inside, wont hurt to try.
I think the pindora boards are very sensitive to reflection.
I had to paint my paper black, fixed it.
Quoted from pinballinreno:What happened?
Just a tiny bit lifted up, got a white bubble now. Pretty minor though.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I though so too at one point, but that wasnt the case, it was reflection.
before dremeling off the shroud, try shooting it with semi flat black paint on the inside, wont hurt to try.
I think the pindora boards are very sensitive to reflection.
I had to paint my paper black, fixed it.
The beam is 940nm, reflection should not be an issue. In my opinion, the ledge is blocking part of the beam somehow
I'm at my wits end with this 5 opto carrier. I've spent hours on this thing.
All 5 LED lights light up, put in brand new 840nm LED's. Put in brand new 840nm photo transistors. I've tested the photo transitors change resistance values when there is light and not light, all 5 work.
However 2 of the 5 opto's don't register on the switch test.
E2 (switch 72) and E5 (switch 75) do not register.
I've checked continuity all the way from the E2 pad on the opto receiver / photo transistor all the way back to the E2 on the 10 opto board and it checks out. Same goes for the E5 to 10 opto board. Continuity is there.
I've swapped to a brand new pindorabox 10 opto board. E2 and E5 still don't register.
What else to check?
Quoted from Xantari:I'm at my wits end with this 5 opto carrier. I've spent hours on this thing.
All 5 LED lights light up, put in brand new 840nm LED's. Put in brand new 840nm photo transistors. I've tested the photo transitors change resistance values when there is light and not light, all 5 work.
However 2 of the 5 opto's don't register on the switch test.
E2 and E5 do not register.
I've checked continuity all the way from the E2 pad on the opto receiver / photo transistor all the way back to the E2 on the 10 opto board and it checks out. Same goes for the E5 to 10 opto board. Continuity is there.
I've swapped to a brand new pindorabox 10 opto board. E2 and E5 still don't register.
What else to check?
Mount it in the old opto carrier and see if it works?
Quoted from eyeamred2u:The beam is 940nm, reflection should not be an issue. In my opinion, the ledge is blocking part of the beam somehow
I have the black opto carrier and its working for me.
That is the only difference.
So, I was thinking spray the inside black? It wont show, so its a low risk test.
I believe it is the coloured options as pinballinreno got a black and is problem free and some of the other people got the blue.
I have removed all coloured options and is now only available in black.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Mount it in the old opto carrier and see if it works?
Same thing with the old opto carrier, E2 (switch 72) and E5 (Switch 75) don't register at all.
I got my optos working. Someone jumpered the "C" legs on IR receivers Q1 and Q2. It must have been a cold solder joint. I resoldered it and it works. You can see the jumpers under the new swinks carrier. As you can see I have the blue carrier and am not having any issues. I am using the original boards so I can't say the pindora boards will work. I would go with the opinion of pinballinreno as he is very knowledgeable. I would advise
swinks to leave the colored options as the blue looks good and I am not having problems. Owners with original boards might want one of the colors. Maybe put an advisory on the order page? And thanks for designing this fantastic opto carrier replacement
IMG_4201 (resized).jpgIMG_4203 (resized).jpgQuoted from swinks:I believe it is the coloured options as pinballinreno got a black and is problem free and some of the other people got the blue.
I have removed all coloured options and is now only available in black.
Quoted from Docbeaks:I got my optos working. Someone jumpered the "C" legs on IR receivers Q1 and Q2. It must have been a cold solder joint. I resoldered it and it works. You can see the jumpers under the new swinks carrier. As you can see I have the blue carrier and am not having any issues. I am using the original boards so I can't say the pindora boards will work. I would go with the opinion of pinballinreno as he is very knowledgeable. I would advise swinks to leave the colored options as the blue looks good and I am not having problems. Owners with original boards might want one of the colors. Maybe put an advisory on the order page? And thanks for designing this fantastic opto carrier replacement[quoted image][quoted image]
It may well be that the pindorabox boards are more powerful and at the same time more sensitive.
Its now proven that the old boards work well in the blue swinks carrier.
Its also proven that I had some reflectivity problems with the pindoabox boards but no problem with the black carrier.
In an era that there are no more original boardsets available, its good to see these problems and have solutions available.
It may be as simple as painting the blue carrier black inside?
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have the black opto carrier and its working for me.
That is the only difference.
So, I was thinking spray the inside black? It wont show, so its a low risk test.
I just painted mine flat black, waiting to dry now
Quoted from Xantari:I'm at my wits end with this 5 opto carrier. I've spent hours on this thing.
All 5 LED lights light up, put in brand new 840nm LED's. Put in brand new 840nm photo transistors. I've tested the photo transitors change resistance values when there is light and not light, all 5 work.
However 2 of the 5 opto's don't register on the switch test.
E2 (switch 72) and E5 (switch 75) do not register.
I've checked continuity all the way from the E2 pad on the opto receiver / photo transistor all the way back to the E2 on the 10 opto board and it checks out. Same goes for the E5 to 10 opto board. Continuity is there.
I've swapped to a brand new pindorabox 10 opto board. E2 and E5 still don't register.
What else to check?
did you jumper those points at the MPU? I can't remember if you did that or not.
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