Where are the TE scoops suppose to kick to? Opposite flippers?

I believe so. Currently mine both shoot STDM, so they need some sort of adjustment.

I notice that mine shoot sdtm during game but if you end the game with them still locked they shoot out to the flippers. Is there such an adjustment? I have just accepted that is how it is hmmmmm

loosen the screws holding the back plates, turn the plates left or right, tighten. Test, adjust as needed. The level of the mini PF will affect this obviously.

Thanks dsuperbee

IIRC during gameplay the balls are released at the same time, meaning they bump into each other on the way down. But at game end they release one after another? Maybe I'm remembering it wrong.

The other thing affecting ball travel might be that during gameplay the balls are released just as the time expander has lowered to the bottom position. Possibly they are released a fraction of a section before the time expander has settled in the bottom position, meaning the positioning is slightly different to at game end when the time expander has been at the bottom position for a while.

Hi all, I've been meaning to post here since I joined considered DW is my only pin. I love it, and almost finished installing most of a Cointaker LED kit. Besides the bulbs blocked by the time expander and the Dalek head I saved the 7 doctors in the back box for last. Go figure the very last screw in to put the board back in fell on the playfield. I can't find it anywhere. This was a total newb mistake because if I had the glass on I would not have this problem.

Dropping a screw is a human mistake.

I'm happy now. With a spatula and fridge magnet I retrieved the screw. The DW is so much brighter with cointakers. My next step is taking out the time expander and installing all the Cliffy protectors I have sitting on the shelf.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxwaW5iYWxsZmF6fGd4OjVlYmVlYzE5OTA0MWNlZmQ

Thanks Accidental.

I have been looking at the Cointakers and the Pinbulbs LED sets. I think the Pinbulbs look more colorful from what I can tell on other machines. I have Pinbulbs in my TAF and Cointakers in the WCS. The TAF kit came with spot lights and all sorts of LED strips etc. Not sure if Cointaker has added those yet or ? I know Cointaker is more organized as far as the kit goes etc.

What are the general thoughts out there from the group for LED's on Dr Who?

Nice. This is what I was looking for. Thanks for preempting my search.

I don't have experience with Pinbulbs, but I can tell you about Cointaker. The kit is very organized and well labeled. Cointaker does not change any colors and the full kit did not come with spot lights.

Basically, the LED matched the color of the plastic. The GI was all frosted white. The back box was all white. What it did was really brighten the whole thing up. It looks really great. Now it is so bright I can see all the dust and bits of wax I missed when I cleaned the playfield prior to installing the LEDs.

I'm a very happy customer, especially since I was still able to get the Labor Day special a day late. I believe I saved 25 percent. Don't forget Cointaker gives a 15 percent Pinside discount anytime. I don't know if Pinbulbs does that, but I do know their kit was way more expensive.

It looks to me like Cointaker is a bit cheaper but the kit does not include all that is included in the other one. 3 spot lights etc.

Its $178 on cointaker (cannot get the Pinside discount applied ?) or $215 on Pinballbulbs with the Pinside discount applied. I am thinking PinballBulbs at this point. If you look at them both you get a lot of extras and they are local (they go to our show in Tacoma etc.)

Well I pulled the MPF, and supposedly 'fixed' my opto issue.

It lasted for 2 games. #&$*%! The optos are not the issue. I either have a plug I need to replace, or a I have an internally cracked wire. Either way I am not excited about the fix.

I put Pinbulbs led's in my DW in january and Cointaker in my RFM in spring.

Personally, I liked the Cointaker more. I thought it enhanced the intended colors of the pin where the pinbulbs mission seemed to be intent on changing the color and look of the pin. Both are not bad, just a different philosophy on their product.

It also seemed like pinbulbs was not complete as I still have a bunch of incandescents in the backbox, but that was my first time even replacing a bulb, much less swapping all the bulbs out, and could have easily been errors on my part.

I ended up going with the Pinbulbs to put a little extra color in the machine. I think you are right about some of the missing bulbs. I did have some missing on my TAF but they replaced them with one email.

I totally agree with Lame33. Looking at photos it looks like Pinbulbs replaces the white GI with blues and reds where Cointaker is all frosted white. I may end up replacing some of the white with color now I know what I'm doing (so I think). If I do I would still be way ahead in price.

If I had a local option I would pay more, but not a lot more. Also, if the Cointaker discount doesn't work I'd e-mail them.

This is the part of the description that sold me on paying $37 more. (keep in mind I am not against cointaker i have purchased many kits from them)

"PinballBulbs exclusive no solder LED Strips to light up the front and back of your game as well as our no solder plug n play spotlight kits to make your pinball glow like no other game! There are 3 sets of spotlights on this game alone!"

Smacked down some Daleks last night!

Photo Sep 19, 10 06 46 PM.jpg

Nice. That is more than double my highest score.

Nice score! My best is 1.3b. I love shooting for loops, I think my best was over 60.

60????

Thanks! It wasn't on my game. Mine had a bit of a bump in the ramp flap that would make the O ramp a challenge to make — the sweet spot was really small. When I played another collector's DW that had a perfect ramp flap I found the loops so easy to hit because I had become used to the small sweet spot.

It has a lot to do with the power of the flipper, condition of the ramp flap and also the kinetics of the trap door.

Some trap doors send the ball back upwards a bit, increasing the length of time you've got before the ball gets to the flipper for another shot. Other games have trapdoors that send the ball straight down towards the flipper quite quickly so your timing has to be sharper.

This is why leaderboards will never work for pinball

Here are pics of my DW with the Cointaker full LED kit. I haven't done the time expander or the red controlled lights in front of the time expander. I'm waiting to do those when I have time to tear it apart to install the Cliffy's.

IMG_9512.jpgIMG_9521.jpgIMG_9522.jpgIMG_9508.jpgIMG_9520.jpg

If you can buy a hardware part that works it hardly seems worth it to make them. I made reset rollers for an IGT M+ slot machine out of plastic on the lathe and they go through more cycles and forces than the dalek reset. So I can't imagine that home depot roller failing.

That does look really nice with the Cointakers.

Got in on the club with my recent purchase. Has Dalek moving head, new mini PF and cliffy's.

I have two looses connectors in the backbox, 1 I have identified as the Z connector and the other remains anonymous.

Can someone tell me if the 4 plug connector coming off the DMD power cable should be used? From the DMD, it's about 12 inches down the line.

Has anyone ever tried to smooth the movement of the Playfield going up and down.

mine seems to have a little play

Mine was a little rough due to a bent bracket. I was able to straighten the bracket a bit and it helped, but it still isn't 100% smooth. I do not expect it would be either as the tolerances are not terribly exact. So long as it lies flat when it has to I am happy!

Yeah my dads an electrical engineer and its his game. I think its fine. He is going to be working on a bushing to tighten it up.

I just got done installing the Pinball Inc. ramps on my DW this week. Really love them, makes the loop shot up top easier to hit which really helps make the gameplay more enjoyable to me. Excellent pin, my first and probably never leaving!

Sweet! Some mirror blades would complement those LEDs

I've also asked Pingraffix to consider doing some inside cab decals for DW. Their JD ones turned out nice.

I have pinblades on mine, but I actually would prefer the look of some inside cab details, especially if it were to have some updated graphics from the new series!

Question regarding the Pinball Bulbs LED Kit.

Has anyone that has ordered it noticed missing bulbs and flashers? Was this intentional or ? I just started to put it together.

I am finally an official part of the club. My wife played the first game on the DW I restored Thursday night.
IMG_4847.jpg

Added some CT Starpost LEDs and tied them into the 5x3 flasher. Here is a quick video of it in action. It is pretty subtle. I did something similar with my AFM and attached them to the saucer flasher.

Pingraffix posted some pics of their inside cab art.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10539169_10205289172377243_221335643813675704_o.jpg

This is the first that I have heard of these. They don't seem to be on their site. Any indication when mere mortals will be allowed to acquire them?

he posted them to Pinball Mods FB page. Not sure when they will be ready.

question for owners.

In a multiplayer game if the the first player has raised the MP to the middle position where will it start for player two? Should it lower back down? I didn't see the entire game but someone suggested they may have seen my game do this. Seem correct? Thanks.

They look pretty cool! I'd prefer if there were no photographic assets though to match the art style of the rest of the game. Plenty of comics out there to use as reference art. And those stars in the star field need to be flat circles like on the cabinet, not with photoshop-style feathering.

Mine goes back down.

It is supposed to go back down, yes. I also advocate for enabling the feature that releases balls from the locks in between players.

This keeps the locks awarded for the previous player but means the subsequent player isn't disadvantaged by having the locks blocked with balls which requires tougher (and more dangerous) shots to the centre target to spot locks, and screws them when they do hit a locked ball and go STDM because the game has no way to sense it and engage the ball saver like it does when balls are normally released from the locks.

What do people think of theses? Uses the cartoon style.

image-958.jpg

They look cool Taylor

Sign me up for a set.

Wish they would get them up on their Web site...