(Topic ID: 76377)

Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!

By HoakyPoaky

10 years ago


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#3851 4 years ago

I have new opto and motor driver boards inbound from pindorabox, they arrived in the US on 3/23 but I haven’t gotten them yet...called Usps and they said customs was holding them up and I basically have no recourse but to wait.

Anyone have experience with this BS?

#3852 4 years ago
Quoted from Bospins:

I have new opto and motor driver boards inbound from pindorabox, they arrived in the US on 3/23 but I haven’t gotten them yet...called Usps and they said customs was holding them up and I basically have no recourse but to wait.
Anyone have experience with this BS?

Yes, gotta let customs do their thing.

#3853 4 years ago
Quoted from Brypten:

Pictures don't do this alternate justice. Looks amazing[quoted image]

I have the same translite. Would be interested in your lighting colours.

#3854 4 years ago

Interesting find on playfield tear down. Bumper screw was just hanging in here and with nothing to screw into... Guess i'm going with one screw on this one as it looks very time consuming to take this thing fully apart to see why it isn't making contact with anything on the playfield.

IMG_0227 (resized).jpgIMG_0227 (resized).jpg
#3855 4 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

Interesting find on playfield tear down. Bumper screw was just hanging in here and with nothing to screw into... Guess i'm going with one screw on this one as it looks very time consuming to take this thing fully apart to see why it isn't making contact with anything on the playfield.[quoted image]

Shove a toothpock with titebond3 on it diwn the hole.

Itll grab

#3856 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Update: fixed the mpf so all opto now see the top, middle and bottom positions.
Waiting for wire so i can re wire the 5 mushroom targets and other wires back to MPU. So many broken wires, it is just easier to replace.

Yay! Exciting news!

#3857 4 years ago

Here is a picture of the original (broken) plastics I had on my Dr Who. As well as the pinball center versions.

I'll post scans of the ministry of pinball ones when I get them.

Notice the pinball center versions are missing part number and the colors are slightly different.

Color differences could be due to age...
Plastic Scan Comparisons (resized).pngPlastic Scan Comparisons (resized).png

#3858 4 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

Here is a picture of the original (broken) plastics I had on my Dr Who. As well as the pinball center versions.
I'll post scans of the ministry of pinball ones when I get them.
Notice the pinball center versions are missing part number and the colors are slightly different.
Color differences could be due to age...
[quoted image]

I have 6 sets of them.

One NOS set, the backing is so stuck due to age, it peels off the white paint.

They all seem good though.

#3859 3 years ago

Any suggestions on where to get a new mini-playfield mylar? Mine is coming up and is dirty. I'd like to remove it and re-attach a new one.

Additionally, I need to make the front to 1 inch back mirror like smooth so that the cliffy's stick real good. Ideas?

image1 (resized).jpegimage1 (resized).jpegimage0 (resized).jpegimage0 (resized).jpeg
#3860 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

Any suggestions on where to get a new mini-playfield mylar? Mine is coming up and is dirty. I'd like to remove it and re-attach a new one.
Additionally, I need to make the front to 1 inch back mirror like smooth so that the cliffy's stick real good. Ideas?[quoted image][quoted image]

Clean it up and forget about mylar. I would pay to have it clearcoated. Marco may sell the mylar

#3861 3 years ago

Probably be quicker / cheaper to buy the brand new one from Marco. $119 for a brand new mini playfield. I'll ask around to see if anyone does clear coating around here. My guess is that someone would want atleast $60 for the time to clear coat this, if not more. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/36-20006-1

#3862 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

Any suggestions on where to get a new mini-playfield mylar? Mine is coming up and is dirty. I'd like to remove it and re-attach a new one.
Additionally, I need to make the front to 1 inch back mirror like smooth so that the cliffy's stick real good. Ideas?[quoted image][quoted image]

Marco has the correct 3 mil mylar.

I used the freeze spray method to remove all of the mylars on the game.
Watch the videos on this, its fast and easy.

Use rapid-tac adhesive remover to remove the left over glue.

I used the old mylars as templates to make new ones.

If the surface isnt perfectly flat the new mylars will have noticable voids in them.
The hair dryer method and a brayer will set mylars to be clear instead of cloudy.

Either buy a new mini playfield blank or thoroughly clean it, sand it and apply spray max p2k.

3 or 4 coats of clear will make it flat again. 8 weeks to dry completely

The new mini playfield blanks need a bit of rework and drilling, they are too long and need to be sanded shorter on a sander. They are fine after reworking.

#3863 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

Probably be quicker / cheaper to buy the brand new one from Marco. $119 for a brand new mini playfield. I'll ask around to see if anyone does clear coating around here. My guess is that someone would want atleast $60 for the time to clear coat this, if not more. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/36-20006-1

I bought a new one and installed all new available parts.

Total price for making a new time expander with all available new parts is $500.

Plungers are hard to find but pinball heaven had some and a ball popper for the tardis VUK.

So, mine is virtually brand new.

Its a bit of a struggle but rewarding when done.

#3864 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I bought a new one and installed all new available parts.
Total price for making a new time expander with all available new parts is $500.
Plungers are hard to find but pinball heaven had some and a ball popper for the tardis VUK.
So, mine is virtually brand new.
Its a bit of a struggle but rewarding when done.

All good options from @pinballreno and if you see his game, it is spectacular.

#3865 3 years ago

I just bought a new mini playfield and getting the white mushroom targets from shapeways. How much did you have to sand the playfield and what reworking was required besides sanding?

#3866 3 years ago

I thought someone posted the stencil for the opto carrier shroud... Guess I'll just trace the one I have.

Also, just ordered this in preparation for the LCD version of the color DMD: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1206-pinshakers/03614-doctor-who-led-light-board

#3867 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

I thought someone posted the stencil for the opto carrier shroud... Guess I'll just trace the one I have.
Also, just ordered this in preparation for the LCD version of the color DMD: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1206-pinshakers/03614-doctor-who-led-light-board

FYI you don't need a new light board. The LCD screen mounts above the current board. It creates the inconvenience of having to remove the speaker panel to open the door but it's not much of an inconvenience really...
IMG-2027 (resized).jpgIMG-2027 (resized).jpg

#3868 3 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

FYI you don't need a new light board. The LCD screen mounts above the current board. It creates the inconvenience of having to remove the speaker panel to open the door but it's not much of an inconvenience really...
[quoted image]

Yeah, I thought about that. Was going to do that. But i've spent so much money on this thing already, I just figured whats another 33 dollars.

#3869 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

I just bought a new mini playfield and getting the white mushroom targets from shapeways. How much did you have to sand the playfield and what reworking was required besides sanding?

The holes dont line up perfectly.

Some are missing.

After laying it out to get most things sorta aligned as good as you can,

About 1/8" had to be removed ftom the front edge.

Nothing a drill press and table sander cant handle quickly, lol.

#3870 3 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

FYI you don't need a new light board. The LCD screen mounts above the current board. It creates the inconvenience of having to remove the speaker panel to open the door but it's not much of an inconvenience really...
[quoted image]

I just love the led version!

#3871 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

Yeah, I thought about that. Was going to do that. But i've spent so much money on this thing already, I just figured whats another 33 dollars.

Or another $3300...

#3872 3 years ago

Haha! Yeah, I didn't have a riveting tool and bought the awesome pintonka rivet tool, so I can now transfer my lights to the new plastics from Freeplay! still waiting on the decals for top of the time expander from ministry of pinball. Takes a long time to ship from the netherlands!

IMG_0254 (resized).jpgIMG_0254 (resized).jpg
#3873 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

Haha! Yeah, I didn't have a riveting tool and bought the awesome pintonka rivet tool, so I can now transfer my lights to the new plastics from Freeplay! still waiting on the decals for top of the time expander from ministry of pinball. Takes a long time to ship from the netherlands![quoted image]

Freeplay makes tbe best cover!

#3874 3 years ago

So I made a small video and a picture of the "starting / lowered" position of the cam assembly for the mini playfield (so I don't screw it up if I play with it).

I really don't see how I can make any improvements to the minor rocking that occurs when it raises / lowers. The cam assembly has about 1/16th of an inch of forward/backward space to it so there is always going to be some movement.

I've seen videos of very smooth up/down action but i'm not sure how I could achieve that due to the approx 1/16th of inch play in the roller wheels.

Here is a video of me moving it back and forth. Not a major amount of play, but enough that I think it's what causes the slight up/down gyrations I posted in my video earlier (which at the time didn't seem too bad until I seen videos of a perfectly smooth up/down action).

Cam can be seen in the picture far to the left. You can't really move it any more forward as the elevator assembly prevents much movement of it.

To be clear, i'm just talking about the left/right movement the mini playfield makes when it starts to go down, or reach's it's very top.

Or is that normal?

Thoughts?


Current Cam alignment Doctor Who (resized).jpegCurrent Cam alignment Doctor Who (resized).jpeg
IMG_0257 (resized).jpgIMG_0257 (resized).jpg

#3875 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

So I made a small video and a picture of the "starting / lowered" position of the cam assembly for the mini playfield (so I don't screw it up if I play with it).
I really don't see how I can make any improvements to the minor rocking that occurs when it raises / lowers. The cam assembly has about 1/16th of an inch of forward/backward space to it so there is always going to be some movement.
I've seen videos of very smooth up/down action but i'm not sure how I could achieve that due to the approx 1/16th of inch play in the roller wheels.
Here is a video of me moving it back and forth. Not a major amount of play, but enough that I think it's what causes the slight up/down gyrations I posted in my video earlier (which at the time didn't seem too bad until I seen videos of a perfectly smooth up/down action).
Cam can be seen in the picture far to the left. You can't really move it any more forward as the elevator assembly prevents much movement of it.
To be clear, i'm just talking about the left/right movement the mini playfield makes when it starts to go down, or reach's it's very top.
Or is that normal?
Thoughts?

[quoted image]
[quoted image]

That slop will not go away and will get worse. I had the same slop, my motor was sloppy and when I took it apart, the main gear shaft was oblong instead of round. I bought the kit from Ulf and his linear kit and a new motor solve the issue of left and right play. My unit now goes up and down smoothly.

#3876 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

That slop will not go away and will get worse. I had the same slop, my motor was sloppy and when I took it apart, the main gear shaft was oblong instead of round. I bought the kit from Ulf and his linear kit and a new motor solve the issue of left and right play. My unit now goes up and down smoothly.

Just put in a request to get the kit. Appears there is about a 1 year waiting period

#3877 3 years ago

Here is some dremel tool porn of me cleaning the ball popper guides

Before/after photo...

IMG_0259 (resized).jpgIMG_0259 (resized).jpg
#3878 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

Here is some dremel tool porn of me cleaning the ball popper guides
Before/after photo...
[quoted image]

May want to invest in a tumbler. Helps with alot of cleaning.

#3879 3 years ago

The dremel tool did it's job well. Probably don't do this enough to invest in a tumbler. But who knows, maybe someday.

Here is some more photos of my work area (caution do not operate tools while under the influence)

Just need to cleanup the little dalek targets and perhaps use the new decals I got for them.

The work surface (resized).jpegThe work surface (resized).jpegAfter dremel tool cleanup (resized).jpegAfter dremel tool cleanup (resized).jpeg
#3880 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

The dremel tool did it's job well. Probably don't do this enough to invest in a tumbler. But who knows, maybe someday.
Here is some more photos of my work area (caution do not operate tools while under the influence)
Just need to cleanup the little dalek targets and perhaps use the new decals I got for them.[quoted image][quoted image]

I would get a replacement motor and gearbox.

The motor on the new one is likely wired backwards. Check with a 9v battery.

30 years is long enough for those parts IMHO...

#3881 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

The dremel tool did it's job well. Probably don't do this enough to invest in a tumbler. But who knows, maybe someday.
Here is some more photos of my work area (caution do not operate tools while under the influence)
Just need to cleanup the little dalek targets and perhaps use the new decals I got for them.[quoted image][quoted image]

Get the harbor freight vibrating tumbler and flitz, with walnut media.

Trust me its a good investment.

You will find tons of stuff to put into it after the MPF outshines the rest of the game.

It actually does a better more even job.

Be brave...lol

Lessor men have been driven mad repairing the MPF.....

#3882 3 years ago

Since I'm basically stuck in the house for the foreseeable future, finally decided to do the mini playfield rebuild I've been meaning to get to for about forever.

Just finished replacing the mini playfield itself, complete with the cliffys that I've had in a box for a year. Man, it sure would have been nice if that mini playfield had been dimpled..... Took forever just to make sure everything would line up correctly before dimpling it.... But I'm happy with the progress so far.

Before and after......

IMG_20200325_163044971 (resized).jpgIMG_20200325_163044971 (resized).jpgIMG_20200330_152643842 (resized).jpgIMG_20200330_152643842 (resized).jpgIMG_20200331_002038063 (resized).jpgIMG_20200331_002038063 (resized).jpgIMG_20200331_001941734 (resized).jpgIMG_20200331_001941734 (resized).jpg
#3883 3 years ago

Quick question...... When I removed the motor/cam mounting bracket from the bottom of the main support bracket, I found 4 metal standoffs of various sizes between the 2 brackets. My understanding was that these 2 brackets should just connect to each other directly, with nothing in between. Are these supposed to be here, or is just some random previous owner hack-job?

IMG_20200330_133440720 (resized).jpgIMG_20200330_133440720 (resized).jpg
#3884 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

So I made a small video and a picture of the "starting / lowered" position of the cam assembly for the mini playfield (so I don't screw it up if I play with it).
I really don't see how I can make any improvements to the minor rocking that occurs when it raises / lowers. The cam assembly has about 1/16th of an inch of forward/backward space to it so there is always going to be some movement.
I've seen videos of very smooth up/down action but i'm not sure how I could achieve that due to the approx 1/16th of inch play in the roller wheels.
Here is a video of me moving it back and forth. Not a major amount of play, but enough that I think it's what causes the slight up/down gyrations I posted in my video earlier (which at the time didn't seem too bad until I seen videos of a perfectly smooth up/down action).
Cam can be seen in the picture far to the left. You can't really move it any more forward as the elevator assembly prevents much movement of it.
To be clear, i'm just talking about the left/right movement the mini playfield makes when it starts to go down, or reach's it's very top.
Or is that normal?
Thoughts?

[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Have you followed the service bulletin they released that addresses right/left cant?

#3885 3 years ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Have you followed the service bulletin they released that addresses right/left cant?

please elaborate

#3886 3 years ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Quick question...... When I removed the motor/cam mounting bracket from the bottom of the main support bracket, I found 4 metal standoffs of various sizes between the 2 brackets. My understanding was that these 2 brackets should just connect to each other directly, with nothing in between. Are these supposed to be here, or is just some random previous owner hack-job?[quoted image]

Hack job too alleviate slop

#3887 3 years ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Quick question...... When I removed the motor/cam mounting bracket from the bottom of the main support bracket, I found 4 metal standoffs of various sizes between the 2 brackets. My understanding was that these 2 brackets should just connect to each other directly, with nothing in between. Are these supposed to be here, or is just some random previous owner hack-job?[quoted image]

Those are not factory lol.
Someone was experimenting...

#3888 3 years ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Since I'm basically stuck in the house for the foreseeable future, finally decided to do the mini playfield rebuild I've been meaning to get to for about forever.
Just finished replacing the mini playfield itself, complete with the cliffys that I've had in a box for a year. Man, it sure would have been nice if that mini playfield had been dimpled..... Took forever just to make sure everything would line up correctly before dimpling it.... But I'm happy with the progress so far.
Before and after......[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great.

Yep, the cpr MPF appears to be only a rough guide. One needs to be resourceful...

But with care and planning, it comes out good.

Dimples? What are those, lol.

A sharpie and a drill press is really nice to get it right. Thats what i used.

I strongly encourage you to install the mylar over it.

Freeze spray to remove the old mylar, make a copy from 3 mil from marco.

The MPF takes an absolute beating.

#3889 3 years ago

pinballinreno So you put another mylar layer on? I didn't order that from Marco. Sigh.... More shipping costs to contend with.

My guess is you just bought the big sheet and cut your own? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-MFT

#3892 3 years ago

Thought I would take a chance on a new back glass print, what do you think?

before (resized).jpgbefore (resized).jpgafter (resized).jpgafter (resized).jpg
#3893 3 years ago

Anyone have any suggestions for what material is the best to use to reproduce the shroud that blocks out the light for the optos in the 5-bank target on the mini playfield to function correctly? Mine is pretty torn up and I occasionally have opto issues. Would standard matte black paper be acceptable, or should some sort of fireproof/heatproof material be used? Thoughts?

#3894 3 years ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Anyone have any suggestions for what material is the best to use to reproduce the shroud that blocks out the light for the optos in the 5-bank target on the mini playfield to function correctly? Mine is pretty torn up and I occasionally have opto issues. Would standard matte black paper be acceptable, or should some sort of fireproof/heatproof material be used? Thoughts?

I buy fishpaper from pinrestore.com and he has black or grey. Many of us just use black electrical tape or have bought swinks' new 3D printed carrier off of shapeways. Helps alot with light interference, then you can also wrap electrical tape around as the outer shroud.

#3895 3 years ago
Quoted from Xantari:

pinballinreno So you put another mylar layer on? I didn't order that from Marco. Sigh.... More shipping costs to contend with.
My guess is you just bought the big sheet and cut your own? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-MFT

Yep. Just chop off what you need, store it out of the light. It lasts forever.

The smaller roll will probably fit. Measure what you need before ordering.

I have a lot of projects so I buy both sizes. (Its not really necessarry to get the real big sheet unless you are doing a full playfield mylar, I DONT RECOMMEND THIS, Its a terrible idea that came about before clearcoat.).

The new repro MPF does not come with mylar on it, but it needs it.

#3896 3 years ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Anyone have any suggestions for what material is the best to use to reproduce the shroud that blocks out the light for the optos in the 5-bank target on the mini playfield to function correctly? Mine is pretty torn up and I occasionally have opto issues. Would standard matte black paper be acceptable, or should some sort of fireproof/heatproof material be used? Thoughts?

I used the template from the IPDB.org website.

Its prints and fits exactly.

I printed it on a piece of manilla folder. Its the perfect material, but I ended up painting it black on the inside due to some reflection.

Any thicker construction paper will work, it doesnt need to be fireproof.

#3897 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I used the template from the IPDB.org website.
Its perfect.
I printed it on a piece of manilla folder. Its perfect, but I ended up painting it black on the inside due to some reflection.
Any thicker construction paper will work

Honestly, that shroud is only necessary if you are not using the 3D printed carrier. It is a pain in the ass to get on, and really looks like crap after a nice resto job. Here is one I made from fishpaper, but did not like it.
7fb7d731ef5bd22174137dbc6f62332097826d93 (resized).jpg7fb7d731ef5bd22174137dbc6f62332097826d93 (resized).jpgf3d3b8254574dc09026f63770863edbec8e7bded (resized).jpgf3d3b8254574dc09026f63770863edbec8e7bded (resized).jpg

#3898 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Honestly, that shroud is only necessary if you are not using the 3D printed carrier. It is a pain in the ass to get on, and really looks like crap after a nice resto job.

I tried to not use it but needed the outer boxes sealed a bit better than just the wall of the frame.

I think its because of the 2SMD leds I used as well as the dual flex heads under the lock inserts. They are super bright.

But if using regular #47 bulbs, I can see that with the swinks carrier, you might not need the shroud at all.

Plus it looks cludgy and retro like something out of the 60's lol.

#3899 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I tried to not use it but needed the outer boxes sealed a bit better than just the wall of the frame.
I think its because of the 2SMD leds I used as well as the flex heads under the lock inserts. They are super bright.
But if using regular #47 bulbs, I can see that with the swinks carrier, you might not need the shroud at all.

Brightness will be a pitfall

#3900 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Honestly, that shroud is only necessary if you are not using the 3D printed carrier. It is a pain in the ass to get on, and really looks like crap after a nice resto job. Here is one I made from fishpaper, but did not like it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Wow, thats a lot nicer than mine came out!

You are an artist!

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