Both flash lamps that aren’t working are socketed, not on boards. Both have continuity to the sockets from the driver board.
Both flash lamps that aren’t working are socketed, not on boards. Both have continuity to the sockets from the driver board.
Quoted from Jakers:Both flash lamps that aren’t working are socketed, not on boards. Both have continuity to the sockets from the driver board.
Do they light up when you shirt the transistor?
If yes, likely transistor (or predriver transistor) is bad.
If no, then they're not connected to the 20v feed.
How would I go about shorting the transistor to test? Do you do this with the machine powered on and everything plugged in?
Is the predriver transistor 2N5401?
Hi Guys,
Anyone have a full list of screws / bolts / nuts if I want to replace everything on my playfield ?
If it is in the manual can some one provide a reference?
Cheers
Quoted from ignat:Hi Guys,
Anyone have a full list of screws / bolts / nuts if I want to replace everything on my playfield ?
If it is in the manual can some one provide a reference?
Cheers
its in the manual, too muchto list here.
Quoted from pinballinreno:its in the manual, too muchto list here.
What page? Ive had a good look in there..
Possible man look haha
Quoted from ignat:What page? Ive had a good look in there..
Possible man look haha
its there. I used it extensively during my restoration.
Get to know the manual page by page. Its VERY informative.
Print out a copy and spiral bind it with plastic covers.
another source for part numbers is marcos website.
they break down the sub-assemblies by their part numbers. Its amazing!
Quoted from pinballinreno:its there. I used it extensively during my restoration.
Get to know the manual page by page. Its VERY informative.
Print out a copy and spiral bind it with plastic covers.
another source for part numbers is marcos website.
they break down the sub-assemblies by their part numbers. Its amazing!
I think the ipdb.org has a parts list in text format
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Still need someone to.confirm my wiring colors on the opto carrier? Please and thank you
Did you look at the picture I posted when I did mine? Post #3415
I dont want to pull mine apart again....yet...
I dont know If I have a picture of the connector side.
I think its in faz's guide.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Did you look at the picture I posted when I did mine? Post #3415
I dont want to pull mine apart again....yet...
I dont know If I have a picture of the connector side.
I think its in faz's guide.
I did look at yours, kinda unclear of certain colors. Do not pull yours apart, it is working. I am going off of Faz's guide, so I just wanted to be sure.
Quoted from Jakers:How would I go about shorting the transistor to test? Do you do this with the machine powered on and everything plugged in?
Is the predriver transistor 2N5401?
Anyone have insight on this? I have a new TIP102 transistor coming this weekend and if the predriver transistor is a 2N5401, then I already have a couple of those from a previous display repair.
Quoted from Jakers:Anyone have insight on this? I have a new TIP102 transistor coming this weekend and if the predriver transistor is a 2N5401, then I already have a couple of those from a previous display repair.
See here:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC&mobileaction=toggle_view_desktop
Under
Coil Power is Not Finding a Path to Ground, item #2.
Quoted from Jakers:Anyone have insight on this? I have a new TIP102 transistor coming this weekend and if the predriver transistor is a 2N5401, then I already have a couple of those from a previous display repair.
Shorting is not the most accurate way to prove a bad transistor. Beat way is to test it with the meter
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I did look at yours, kinda unclear of certain colors. Do not pull yours apart, it is working. I am going off of Faz's guide, so I just wanted to be sure.
Mine is currently disassembled. I will get down to the workshop tonight and get what you need.
-Brian
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:Mine is currently disassembled. I will get down to the workshop tonight and get what you need.
-Brian
Thank you so much.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Shorting is not the most accurate way to prove a bad transistor. Beat way is to test it with the meter
True, but I didn't have to help at all.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Thank you so much.
Looks like I came up with the same thing you did...
16183A4A-B13A-4424-A878-05E8192607CA (resized).jpegB1890352-8443-413D-9B6F-FC3D00D1AC22 (resized).jpegQuoted from RocketFromTombs:Looks like I came up with the same thing you did...[quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome, you rock for verifying this.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Game still going strong!
Infinite thanks to all who helped![quoted image]
I am so happy and so mad at you for having a working game lmao. Looks awesome. Did you motorize that topper? I did mine, was easy and does add a nice element.
Quoted from swinks:looks great, have fun
Thanks!
We put about 10 games a day on it.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Thanks!
We put about 10 games a day on it.
I have given up on mine!
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I am so happy and so mad at you for having a working game lmao. Looks awesome. Did you motorize that topper? I did mine, was easy and does add a nice element.
Dont be mad...lol.
Ive been exactly where you are.
Months of tedious testing and trouble shooting. Hours of testing and research and schematic reads.
Many Days of internet searching and parts accrual.
Every single mech had to be compared to the manual and correct parts acquired.
I think ive almost memorized the manual at this point.
The hundreds of hacks and operator nonsense caused me to go full bore and rip everything apart.
By far the most frustrating and rewarding restoration i have done.
If i was to do a motorized topper, i would do the earlier build using the motor that marco still has.
And the original type construction of the first 100 games.
I would fabricate the bracket and order some pc board blanks made up ftom the way earlier build.
The servo build isnt as robust and doesnt interact as well as the original design.
It costs $500 or so but, it would be a fun project.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Dont be mad...lol.
Ive been exactly where you are.
Months of tedious testing and trouble shooting. Hours of testing and research and schematic reads.
Many Days of internet searching and parts accrual.
Every single mech had to be compared to the manual and correct parts acquired.
I think ive almost memorized the manual at this point.
The hundreds of hacks and operator nonsense caused me to go full bore and rip everything apart.
By far the most frustrating and rewarding restoration i have done.
If i was to do a motorized topper, i would do the earlier build using the motor that marco still has.
And the original type construction of the first 100 games.
I would fabricate the bracket and order some pc board blanks made up ftom the way earlier build.
The servo build isnt as robust and doesnt interact as well as the original design.
It costs $500 or so but, it would be a fun project.
I wanted to do the original, and have seen the complete kit on ebay. I wanted to re fabricate the kit as well, in a small batch run.
I am not giving up, I am gonna move on to my Terminator project and finish it. Then.....get back to the Doctor. Just bizarre how when I plug the connector from 5-target opto carrier, to opto interface board, it scrambles the input signals. When I unplug it, the inputs are normal. Never have I ever seen this with a game. I will also be pulling the playfield to check all the wires for breaks and such.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I wanted to do the original, and have seen the complete kit on ebay. I wanted to re fabricate the kit as well, in a small batch run.
I am not giving up, I am gonna move on to my Terminator project and finish it. Then.....get back to the Doctor. Just bizarre how when I plug the connector from 5-target opto carrier, to opto interface board, it scrambles the input signals. When I unplug it, the inputs are normal. Never have I ever seen this with a game. I will also be pulling the playfield to check all the wires for breaks and such.
I'm in for the small batch production run.
Lets do this!
No hurry, but that is the type of motorized topper I want.
Ill start putting together some odds and ends, who knows? I might have something for the summer!
Anyone else want to investigate this?
Quoted from eyeamred2u:When I unplug it, the inputs are normal. Never have I ever seen this with a game. I will also be pulling the playfield to check all the wires for breaks and such.
Check back in your mind what was going on when it was working.
Review all of the prior repairs.
Sounds like a bad connector/short/mis-wire on one end or the other.
Or a mis-wired repair from the past (I found a few of those).
Here's a thought:
Pull the the wires from the connector.
Attach via micro jumper each wire, one by one.
Examine the results wire by wire. check the paths.
I imagine the results would be enlightening.
This could give some insight as to what is mis-wired or shorted or at least point to a specific circuit...
I also agree this would be way easier with the playfield on the rotisserie.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I'm in for the small batch production run.
Lets do this!
No hurry, but that is the type of motorized topper I want.
Ill start putting together some odds and ends, who knows? I might have something for the summer!
Anyone else want to investigate this?
I guess I was lucky snagging one of the reproduction kits of the original style motor. That was the only way I was going to add it as well. It’s overkill in the design but shouldn’t ever fail. I doubt the servo version would hold up.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Sounds like a bad connector/short/mis-wire on one end or the other.
Here's a thought:
Pull the the wires from the connector.
Attach via micro jumper each wire, one by one.
Examine the results wire by wire. check the paths.
I imagine the results would be enlightening.
This could give some insight as to what is mis-wired or shorted.
I pulled the playfield out and all wires. When I was putting back the pindora boards and raised the playfield, I had switche 75 register in switch mode, so I am sure I have broken wires.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I pulled the playfield out and all wires. When I was putting back the pindora boards and raised the playfield, I had switche 75 register in switch mode, so I am sure I have broken wires.
Wow!
this is exciting news!
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I guess I was lucky snagging one of the reproduction kits of the original style motor. That was the only way I was going to add it as well. It’s overkill in the design but shouldn’t ever fail. I doubt the servo version would hold up.
Its late in the game but, This is the only mod I would actually want to do.
Have you collected any info on the original kit?
http://www.basementarcade.com/arcade/drwho/MakingOf/
I know marco still has some motors with gearbox.
Im going to snag one of those.
I want to replicate the original kit pc board.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its late in the game but, This is the only mod I would actually want to do.
Have you collected any info on the original kit?
I know marco still has some motors with gearbox.
Im going to snag one of those.
I want to replicate the original kit pc board.
There is a ton of pictures on the basement arcade site. They made the reproduction kit of the proto topper. Maybe he has left over parts.
https://www.basementarcade.com/arcade/drwho/MakingOf/index.html
Making a reproduction of the PCB portion would be easy.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Wow!
this is exciting news!
I may just run all new wire, unless I find the broken wire(s)
Ok, gonna read all this in the morning. I have a machinist friend who may be able to make all the base components.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Ok, gonna read all this in the morning. I have a machinist friend who may be able to make all the base components.
Awesome! Im in!
Quoted from Robotworkshop:There is a ton of pictures on the basement arcade site. They made the reproduction kit of the proto topper. Maybe he has left over parts.
https://www.basementarcade.com/arcade/drwho/MakingOf/index.html
Making a reproduction of the PCB portion would be easy.
Do you have a "quick cad", for this board?
I can have some populated boards made if I have the cad drawing with parts list..
these guys are fast and inexpensive:
I have had them reproduce boards in the past.
They also can work off a photo if you have the measurements and mounting hole locations.
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:Ooh! I checked my mail today, and not only did my swinks opto carrier arrive, so did the pindora opto boards! Looks like I will be playing soon![quoted image]
Nice. I recommend buying fish paper and making a shim for to raise the blue board off the carrier so no e-clips ruin the IR LED's.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Nice. I recommend buying fish paper and making a shim for to raise the blue board off the carrier so no e-clips ruin the IR LED's.
Thanks for the tip. I think I may have some sitting around...
Quoted from lanfeust:I am trying to restore a Dr who which is not in a very good shape.
I found these 2 wires under the upper flipper going nowhere...I am not sure if it's normal or not, can someone confirm it? Thanks.[quoted image]
Those are your EOS wires, all the flippers should be tied together and go back to a .100 connector.
Update: found a few wires with exposed wiring, but no breaks. Still on the hunt for damaged wires, what a tedious process, one wire at a time.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Update: found a few wires with exposed wiring, but no breaks. Still on the hunt for damaged wires, what a tedious process, one wire at a time.
I don't envy you... Good luck!
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Update: found a few wires with exposed wiring, but no breaks. Still on the hunt for damaged wires, what a tedious process, one wire at a time.
I had some intermittant contacts.
I found a lot of loose wires on the IDC connectors.
I replaced some connectors, others i cut back the wire and reinserted it with a tool.
A couple others i installed trifurcon in tbe GI.
Quoted from lanfeust:I am trying to restore a Dr who which is not in a very good shape.
I found these 2 wires under the upper flipper going nowhere...I am not sure if it's normal or not, can someone confirm it? Thanks.[quoted image]
There are no loose wires in the game.
They all are supposed to be attached somewhere.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Update: found a few wires with exposed wiring, but no breaks. Still on the hunt for damaged wires, what a tedious process, one wire at a time.
Remember, I spent 4 days sorting out the topper light lol.
Finally went to the schematic and checked wire by wire.
What a PITA!
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:Ooh! I checked my mail today, and not only did my swinks opto carrier arrive, so did the pindora opto boards! Looks like I will be playing soon![quoted image]
Fish paper or gasket material is the best as a spacer.
If you don't have any,
I used 3 layers of black electrical tape, it was the proper thickness.
Thanks for posting a pic!
It verifies that they went to clear opto transistors, instead of the red.
Please post more pics if your progress.
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