Yep, took about 2 weeks to get the pindorabox boards.

The receivers are still too long, evidently there will not be any short ones made any more.

In my opinion the swinks carrier is a must.

I really like the idea of fish paper on the receiver side to compensate for the extra length of the receiver optos! It seems actually professional, lol, thanks eyeamred2u !

But 3 layers of black electrical tape worked for me in a pinch (now I gotta buy some fishpaper...).

If you are using the paper shroud: paint the end flaps, or the whole paper black. (see my post on this...)

Pinrestore sells fish paper in gray and black. Download the shield template from ipdb.org

Ill take some pictures tonight so you can verify the wire colors.

I did get the template from IPDB. its perfect.
Fishpaper is on my list lol. Very handy to rebuild switch stacks.

I actually have some thin stuff and some old fashioned gasket material.
I just didnt think of it!

Thanks, I think I mapped them all out, but the pics help to confirm

Maybe these will help

20190615_125724 (resized).jpg

20190618_145920 (resized).jpg

Thanks. For connectors J4,J5 and J6 it is Gray(A), Black(K), White(C), and Green(E) ?

Yes exactly, Better pics
20200129_094619 (resized).jpg20200129_094635 (resized).jpg20200129_094643 (resized).jpg

Ok, I had that wrong, stupid manual.now I have to confirm J1, J2 and J3 wiring. Is the manual and your wiring correct?

I never checked, but the circuits I did check, in almost all cases its dead on. It took me 4 days to light the topper lol. My game was slightly different from the schematic on a couple connections, I just matched it up to the schematic and it worked.

Probably operator hacks/mistakes caused the differences.

Thanks so much. This is a hacked game for sure. Crazy how it was running perfect, then BAM. But I will just take my time to figure it out. I find more hacks the deeper I look under the surface.

The sad part is when I jumper pins on J3, I get a an unused row showing up on my display, like my new ROM is corrupt. I am gonna put my old ROM in and see what happens. This game is haunted! Lmao

My coin interface board as well as the coin door switch, and start and launch buttons were all hacked and rewired.

They worked but no lights on anything.

It took a bit of time to bring everything back to spec and match the schematic.
It was maddening at the time for sure.

Even my slings were wired in parallel they both fired at the same time lol.

Very creative operators to get the 250,000 games played on my game without spending money on parts!

Its crap like this that caused me to rip it all apart and start over...

Just too many hacks to be stable at all.

I kept asking myself, WTF!?!?!? and why the F#ck would anyone do this...LOL!

It all got fixed after 4 months of work...

The gulf stream opto boards were one of the things that really confused me.
3 sets of them and it worked like crap...live and learn.

I just found another wire not connected. On the upper left flipper, should there be 2 orange wires connected to EOS stack or 1, I have a wire I found tucked in the loom

YAY! Another WTF!?!?!? moment!

Yes its 2, they are tied together.

Thank you CRAP operators!

Alright, got my opto boards ordered from Pindorabox, and the new style opto carrier from Swinks. Now I just have to wait for them to arrive... I will spend the interim getting everything else on the game in good order, and waiting to finally have my machine working again!
-Brian

Awesome!! The group is here if you need us. Keep us posted.

I'm having troubles figuring out a time expander problem. The middle target on the second level will not register. I've replaced both sender and receiver optos. The weird thing is, when I touch the 2 pins of the receiver opto (on the solder side) the target registers correctly. It doesn't take any pressure at all to make it work. Just bridging the receiver pins with my skin makes it work perfectly. Does this point to a resistance problem? Maybe the problem stems from the 10 opto board under the playfield?

Is it loose or cracked solder joint?
Maybe a broken wire?

Sometimes the wire breaks off the opto itself.

You mean you are putting a jumper across the terminals on the opto receiver board?

I've put new solder on every wire, opto sender, receiver and checked my molex connectors. If I hold my finger on the receiver opto I can move the whole assembly around any which way and it works flawlessly. The second I stop touching the receiver opto prongs it quits working.

Board has broken trace points

Essentially using my fingertip as a jumper, yes. But as a test, I did jumper the receiver prongs with a wire and the target still would not work. I removed the jumper wire, touched it with my fingertip and it works flawlessly. Which is why I'm thinking it's a resistance issue.

Do the receiver optos have a polarity? I noticed the sender optos have a notch drawn on the board to show which way to insert them. The receiver optos did not have that notch and are just circles.

So u are a ground

bad board?
broken trace/lifted pad.

I swapped the 10 opto board from under the playfield with the 10 opto board out of my BSD. The time expander targets work perfectly now. So I guess I’ve gotta shell out $100 for a new one. Bummer, but at least I can stop taking this time expander apart all the time for testing.

That is great news! I have the great lakes modular opto board, built in LED's that show optos registering. Well worth the100 bucks. Makes troubleshooting easy.

Can someone with a DW accessible measure the precise size of the translight GLASS cover (not the translite itself?) Mine's packed right now,and need the exact size.

Thanks!

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Backglass_Sizes

27" x 18-7/8" (685x479x3mm) 1/8" clear tempered glass (sanded edge, no logo)

There are slight production variations but, this is what Williams ordered from the glass vendors.

Yes, That is prolly correct size.

@pinballreno

Do your opto boards look like this. Mine are clear IR's, not clear and dark. Might be an issue.

20200203_144627 (resized).jpg

No, thats looks wrong.

post #3415 shows that mine were dark and light same as the gulf stream and originals.

If they are all dead that that is very much the issue.
All transmitter LEDs and no receivers?

WTF?!?!?!?!

I thought so, I bought them from Ministry of Pinball and they are telling me the boards are correct, both clear IR's, and I am super confused now.

Not all recievers are clear, some are clouded/grey. It just depends on the manufacturer of the LED/Phototransistor.

I bought mine from pindorabox.com directly.

Take a look at my post.

I guess in theory the receivers can be clear but, In all cases, All of the sets I have bought are different colors.

Ministry of pinball also sold me the cabinet decals that were not the right size.

I would have to test them. The receivers do not light up, they are transistors

I get that, but these are clear like the transmitters

*nods* Some phototransistors ARE clear, that's what I'm saying. You can't judge them based on the color.
In fact, if you look at them, you can SEE the blue board is a transistor and not an LED, with the different black-colored base inside.

I will.look closer, don't see the difference you are pointing at. Thank you for the clarification.

Still its a surprise.

The ones I got were very different and worked very well for me.

I do see the transistors thru the lens on the blue board from the photo.

I thought they used red filters to block ambient light on the receivers?

Clear is an interesting choice. I guess it just depends on the manufacturer.

If you put the old boards back on, do they work?

If all sets are not working the problem is not the boards.

Possibly a ground issue on the receiver side.

All wiring has been verified, no ground issues. Gonna try original boards

That would be good as a comparison maybe.

Same results, Switches 71-75 not registering. Can't find a break in ground path either.

All 5 mushrooms not registering.

Dead.

And the leds light up?

Somewhere there is signal loss or a wire/connector/pin isnt making contact?

Or the signal isnt being sent or decoded?

Time to get out the logic probe or o-scope.

I would reinstall the pindorabox boards when you get a chance.

They needed very little adjustmant if any.

PinballFAZ might have some insight?

I am going to put them back in tomorrow. Again, thanks for all the help.

Can someone confirm the correct wiring for the 5 board opto carrier transmitter and reciever. Here is what I have

20200204_110430 (resized).jpg

I’ve ALMOST got my game 100% working. The last problem I can see is a couple flashers not working. The Doctor 7 (middle backglass doctor) and the time expander flasher are not working. They are on the same circuit and should flash at the same time. I have continuity from the board to the bulbs and have checked for cold solder joints on the back of the board.

While I had the driver board off, I noticed that transistor Q42 (the transistor that controls said flashers) is a TIP122 but the manual calls for a TIP102. It’s obviously been replaced at some point. Would this cause the flashers to not operate?

Have you reflowed the lamp board pads? Swapped #6 and #7 to make sure you don't have a bad lamp holder.

Tip 122 is acceptable.