(Topic ID: 76377)

Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!


By HoakyPoaky

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,741 posts
  • 316 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by RocketFromTombs
  • Topic is favorited by 149 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,008 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_3971 (resized).JPG
IMG_3957 (resized).JPG
IMG_3970 (resized).JPG
IMG_3969 (resized).JPG
Solenoid Wireing 2 (resized).png
Solenoid Wireing 1 (resized).png
WireChart (resized).png
image (resized).jpg
6E9CF67D-85C4-4566-B48E-26183175C6FB.jpeg
3A54F394-82A5-408C-A8A8-7F913AC92377.jpeg
IMG_2136 (resized).JPG
IMG_2138 (resized).JPG
20200212_203424 (resized).jpg
Tardis (resized).png
5J5A3175 (resized).JPG
5J5A3170 (resized).JPG

Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 3741 posts in this topic. You are on page 71 of 75.
#3501 43 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Opto carrier report :
28 days in, 400 plays.
Its perfect.
Zero defects, zero mushroom target errors. Zero phantom switch closures.
The pindorabox opto boards and the Swinks carrier were the definitive fix for me.
My game is ROCK SOLID !
Still plays like a dream.
Thanks Jady!

Thanks for the update. I'll be following your pindorabox opto boards and the Swinks carrier lead with my MPF switch error repair.

#3502 43 days ago
Quoted from steve-o:

Thanks for the update. I'll be following your pindorabox opto boards and the Swinks carrier lead with my MPF switch error repair.

Great plains modular might also be a good choice.

I have their trough opto boards in my IJ. They have been going strong for 10 years !

I couldnt locate them for my DW.

Pindorabox.com had newer style boards at a good price, so i got them. They are great quality.

My thinking was that there must be better boards than the gulf stream ones. They are terrible.

I was right, lol.

#3503 43 days ago

Awesome news, and great to here, thanks for reporting back
Cheers Jady

#3504 43 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Opto carrier report :
28 days in, 400 plays.
Its perfect.
Zero defects, zero mushroom target errors. Zero phantom switch closures.
The pindorabox opto boards and the Swinks carrier were the definitive fix for me.
My game is ROCK SOLID !
Still plays like a dream.
Thanks Jady!

So Jealous, my pindora boards are almost here.

#3505 42 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

So Jealous, my pindora boards are almost here.

yeah, i had to wait seemingly forever, 2 weeks!
And then I didnt have time to do the work !

It was crazy, I was chomping at the bit for sooooo long, lol.

Tip:

Use black paper on the paper shroud....

#3506 42 days ago

Added a spotlight from Comet to the front of the playfield. Any other good areas on a Dr Who for a spotlight? Thanks.

AE7D8197-3EDC-4230-B812-3C28E967B83A (resized).jpeg
#3507 40 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Added a spotlight from Comet to the front of the playfield. Any other good areas on a Dr Who for a spotlight? Thanks.[quoted image]

In my restoration I added a light behind the tardis. The plastic was dark, but there was a hole in the playfield for a lamp.

I also added the 2 sided light boards for the bumper caps and translucent bodies.
This lit up the upper corner really well.

I agree the game is a little dark.

2 spots on each sling and one on each side midway up the playfield would probabably work real well.

I did this on my WOZ and it helped a lot.

#3508 40 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

In my restoration I added a light behind the tardis. The plastic was dark, but there was a hole in the playfield for a lamp.
I also added the 2 sided light boards for the bumper caps and translucent bodies.
This lit up the upper corner really well.
I agree the game is a little dark.
2 spots on each sling and one on each side midway up the playfield would probabably work real well.
I did this on my WOZ and it helped a lot.

THose are great ideas. There is a lot of documentation about how the game needed a LOT of corners cut. I think it fell in to a period where they were trying to get a particular low BOM for games in that quarter, and here comes an unplanned game with original actors VO, and the complicated time expander! There are probably lots of little areas where a light was removed (and what else we don't even know about!)

#3509 39 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

THose are great ideas. There is a lot of documentation about how the game needed a LOT of corners cut. I think it fell in to a period where they were trying to get a particular low BOM for games in that quarter, and here comes an unplanned game with original actors VO, and the complicated time expander! There are probably lots of little areas where a light was removed (and what else we don't even know about!)

I installed 5 led towers for all the 906 flashers across the whole game.
I really like the blinding effect when the transmat target is hit.

The 2 flashers above the repair targets are amazing and add a whole level of excitement.

#3510 39 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

In my restoration I added a light behind the tardis. The plastic was dark, but there was a hole in the playfield for a lamp.
I also added the 2 sided light boards for the bumper caps and translucent bodies.
This lit up the upper corner really well.
I agree the game is a little dark.
2 spots on each sling and one on each side midway up the playfield would probabably work real well.
I did this on my WOZ and it helped a lot.

Any chance you could post the photos? Thanks.

#3511 39 days ago

For those that have done Pinsound orchestrations, have you ever come across any audio folders that are never played by the game? There was some discussion of this in the Getaway thread where apparently 11 of the 31 audio folders are never used by the game. Just wondering if this may be the case for Dr Who as well. Thanks.

#3513 39 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

For those that have done Pinsound orchestrations, have you ever come across any audio folders that are never played by the game? There was some discussion of this in the Getaway thread where apparently 11 of the 31 audio folders are never used by the game. Just wondering if this may be the case for Dr Who as well. Thanks.

I can't seem to get the 'game_over_match_music' folder to play. Not unless it is overridden with another sound file. Thanks.

#3514 37 days ago

All new boards, new repinned connectors, still can't get the mpf to go to home position and register the targets. I give up.

#3515 37 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

All new boards, new repinned connectors, still can't get the mpf to go to home position and register the targets. I give up.

Man that is frustrating. Do the targets register in test?

Home position is (I think) just based on the one Opto pair under the MPF.

#3516 37 days ago

Greetings,

If you follow the TAF owner's thread by chance then you would have seen that I created a light board for the "THING" lamps that allow you to fit a ColorDMD LCD over top of them. I see that perhaps Doctor Who shares the same problem? I do not own a Doctor Who but I am willing to create one of these boards for this machine if you guys want me to. Below you can find all the photos of the one I created for TAF. It fits flush with a black colored board to prevent any light from leaking through. I am producing two versions, one with Warm White 3000K leds and one with Cool White 5700K ones. The photos below show the Warm White version. I did tweak the shape from the ones shown to allow an easy plug and play installation even if you have a set of flipper fidelity or pinball pro speakers without having to remove them. There is some slight ghosting but it ins't very bad IMO. If you have one of the OCD LED boards installed it should eliminate any ghosting although I do not have one to test that theory.

I am estimating them to be in stock by the end of February, and should only be around $10-$20 ea plus shipping as I am not looking to make anything off them, just wanting to help others out.

First step though is I would need someone to send me their DrWho light board so that I can replicate it as I do not believe it is the same exact one as what is in the TAF. Anyone willing to send me one so that I can get all the measurements will receive one of the upgraded boards I am making free of charge.

Anyways, if you want one please PM me with the following:

-Subject: Dr Who Light Board
-Full Mailing Address
-# of boards wanted
-Paypal Email Address

Once the boards are in production I will send you a paypal invoice for payment along with the total amount shipped. Any extras from the batch order will also go on my pinside shop if you prefer to wait until then. I do plan to keep these in stock as long as there is a demand for them so no worries on "Missing Out" from any kind of one time order.

Best Regards,

Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
Photo Jan 19, 6 49 11 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Jan 19, 6 49 21 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Jan 19, 6 50 04 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Jan 19, 7 05 09 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Jan 19, 7 11 16 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Jan 19, 7 11 27 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Jan 19, 7 26 12 PM (resized).jpg

#3517 37 days ago

I can confirm the DW light board is not identical to the TAF one. They are not terribly different but the lamp placement is not quite the same.

#3518 37 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

All new boards, new repinned connectors, still can't get the mpf to go to home position and register the targets. I give up.

Check the height of the optos.
Does the cam completely block and unblock the opto beam?

Test with cardboard.
If that works, raise or lower the optos

If not:

Take out the time expander.

Remove the optos from the MPF, leaving them on the wire.

Isolate the wires for each led.
Isolate the pins in the connector.

Can you energise the pair manually and get them to respond?

If so plug into the harness, locate the pins and energise the connector manually. Fazs guide has some great test procedures.

Can you light up the pair? Do they respond? If so:

Check voltages at the cpu and opto board.
Check for proper signal with a logic probe etc.

Swap out the cpu board or the opto board in a pinch if you have a spare.

I am a firm believer in manual testing.

Adding 6 to 10 volts can really help isolate a problem and send you in the right direction.

I would never have sorted out my topper lights without injecting power thru the harness.

#3519 37 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Man that is frustrating. Do the targets register in test?
Home position is (I think) just based on the one Opto pair under the MPF.

No they don't. I have Great Lakes Modular Opto Interface board and the optos register on the board LED's but not in games switch test on the DMD.

#3520 37 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Check the height of the optos.
Does the cam completely block and unblock the opto beam?
Test with cardboard.
If that works, rsise or lower the optos
If not:
Take out the time expander.
Remove the optos from the MPF, leaving them on the wire.
Isolate the wires for each led.
Isolate the pins in the connector.
Can you energise the pair manually and get them to respond?
If so plug into the harness, locate the pins and energise the connector manually. Fazs guide has some great test procedures.
Can you light up the pair? Do they respond? If so:
Check voltages at the cpu and opto board.
Check for proper signal with a logic probe etc.
Swap out the cpu board or the opto board in a pinch if you have a spare.
I am a firm believer in manual testing.
Adding 6 to 10 volts can really help isolate a problem and send you in the right direction.
I would never have sorted out my topper lights without injecting power thru the harness.

Already swapped out the MPU with another brand new board, same results. Pindora boards are new, just put them in today. Not sure why MPU is not seeing the optos. I am checking all connectors again tomorrow

Back to square one. Just a head scratcher since it was working 100%, then I put in new opto boards and now nothing.

#3521 37 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Already swapped out the MPU with another brand new board, same results. Pindora boards are new, just put them in today. Not sure why MPU is not seeing the optos. I am checking all connectors again tomorrow
Back to square one. Just a head scratcher since it was working 100%, then I put in new opto boards and now nothing.

These are the cam optos right?
Do the optos in the carrier work properly?

Or are all optos down?
If so check that a connector isnt off by a pin somewhere.

Do some basic tests.

Manually energize the the connector to check continuity.

You can see the emitter with a cell phone.

You can see resistance changes on the reciever with an ohmmeter.

Check the volage on the opto board, input and output, it's probably good.

Might be a ground fault.

Check the ground path of each of the optos for continuity all the way to the cpu board.

#3522 37 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Greetings,
If you follow the TAF owner's thread by chance then you would have seen that I created a light board for the "THING" lamps that allow you to fit a ColorDMD LCD over top of them. I see that perhaps Doctor Who shares the same problem? I do not own a Doctor Who but I am willing to create one of these boards for this machine if you guys want me to. Below you can find all the photos of the one I created for TAF. It fits flush with a black colored board to prevent any light from leaking through. I am producing two versions, one with Warm White 3000K leds and one with Cool White 5700K ones. The photos below show the Warm White version. I did tweak the shape from the ones shown to allow an easy plug and play installation even if you have a set of flipper fidelity or pinball pro speakers without having to remove them. There is some slight ghosting but it ins't very bad IMO. If you have one of the OCD LED boards installed it should eliminate any ghosting although I do not have one to test that theory.
I am estimating them to be in stock by the end of February, and should only be around $10-$20 ea plus shipping as I am not looking to make anything off them, just wanting to help others out.
First step though is I would need someone to send me their DrWho light board so that I can replicate it as I do not believe it is the same exact one as what is in the TAF. Anyone willing to send me one so that I can get all the measurements will receive one of the upgraded boards I am making free of charge.
Anyways, if you want one please PM me with the following:
-Subject: Dr Who Light Board
-Full Mailing Address
-# of boards wanted
-Paypal Email Address
Once the boards are in production I will send you a paypal invoice for payment along with the total amount shipped. Any extras from the batch order will also go on my pinside shop if you prefer to wait until then. I do plan to keep these in stock as long as there is a demand for them so no worries on "Missing Out" from any kind of one time order.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for doing this. I do have an LCD in my Dr Who. I recall I had to move the Doctors light board slightly when installing the LCD. It was pretty straight forward. But for the price you are offering, may be a reasonable option.

#3523 37 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

These are the cam optos right?
Do the optos in the carrier work properly?
Or are all optos down?
If so check that a connector isnt off by a pin somewhere.
Do some basic tests.
Manually energize the the connector to check continuity.
You can see the emitter with a cell phone.
You can see resistance changes on the reciever with an ohmmeter.
Check the volage on the opto board, input and output, it's probably good.
Might be a ground fault.
Check the ground path of each of the optos for continuity all the way to the cpu board.

The only thing I can think that may be the issue is that I replaced the IDC connectorson the Opto interface board with standard connectors and perhaps the pins aren't seated correctly, but I never have issues when repinning. I will buzz continuity back to MPU and report back.

The nice thing about this GLM Opto board is the onboard LED status leta me know where my issue is. I just got the manual for board and it explains how to identify board or wirings issues, so let me do some reading.

#3524 36 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

The only thing I can think that may be the issue is that I replaced the IDC connectorson the Opto interface board with standard connectors and perhaps the pins aren't seated correctly, but I never have issues when repinning. I will buzz continuity back to MPU and report back.
The nice thing about this GLM Opto board is the onboard LED status leta me know where my issue is. I just got the manual for board and it explains how to identify board or wirings issues, so let me do some reading.

Yep, sounds like you are close.

#3525 35 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Greetings,
If you follow the TAF owner's thread by chance then you would have seen that I created a light board for the "THING" lamps that allow you to fit a ColorDMD LCD over top of them. I see that perhaps Doctor Who shares the same problem? I do not own a Doctor Who but I am willing to create one of these boards for this machine if you guys want me to. Below you can find all the photos of the one I created for TAF. It fits flush with a black colored board to prevent any light from leaking through. I am producing two versions, one with Warm White 3000K leds and one with Cool White 5700K ones. The photos below show the Warm White version. I did tweak the shape from the ones shown to allow an easy plug and play installation even if you have a set of flipper fidelity or pinball pro speakers without having to remove them. There is some slight ghosting but it ins't very bad IMO. If you have one of the OCD LED boards installed it should eliminate any ghosting although I do not have one to test that theory.
I am estimating them to be in stock by the end of February, and should only be around $10-$20 ea plus shipping as I am not looking to make anything off them, just wanting to help others out.
First step though is I would need someone to send me their DrWho light board so that I can replicate it as I do not believe it is the same exact one as what is in the TAF. Anyone willing to send me one so that I can get all the measurements will receive one of the upgraded boards I am making free of charge.
Anyways, if you want one please PM me with the following:
-Subject: Dr Who Light Board
-Full Mailing Address
-# of boards wanted
-Paypal Email Address
Once the boards are in production I will send you a paypal invoice for payment along with the total amount shipped. Any extras from the batch order will also go on my pinside shop if you prefer to wait until then. I do plan to keep these in stock as long as there is a demand for them so no worries on "Missing Out" from any kind of one time order.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How long would you need a demo board? I may be able to send mine up for you to use for your design process. Very cool of you offer.

#3526 35 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

How long would you need a demo board? I may be able to send mine up for you to use for your design process. Very cool of you offer.

I believe I have someone sending me one, so I should be good there.

Rob

#3527 32 days ago

Hi Guys just picked up a Doctor Who. Has some faults but let’s start at the beginning.

How do I track down GND. Short Row 1 stuck closed?

MPF also not moving. I replaced the Cap on the motor drive. Seems to be intermittent

Thanks in advance

#3528 32 days ago
Quoted from ignat:

Hi Guys just picked up a Doctor Who. Has some faults but let’s start at the beginning.
How do I track down GND. Short Row 1 stuck closed?
MPF also not moving. I replaced the Cap on the motor drive. Seems to be intermittent
Thanks in advance

Find all the connections tied to row 1
Look for broken wires
Could be blown LM339 chip on MPU or Opto interface board.
Got a meter, start testing components.

#3529 32 days ago
Quoted from ignat:

Hi Guys just picked up a Doctor Who. Has some faults but let’s start at the beginning.
How do I track down GND. Short Row 1 stuck closed?
MPF also not moving. I replaced the Cap on the motor drive. Seems to be intermittent
Thanks in advance

check fuses?
The chart in the manual should show the rows and columns wires and transistors.

#3530 32 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Find all the connections tied to row 1
Look for broken wires
Could be blown LM339 chip on MPU or Opto interface board.
Got a meter, start testing components.

Thanks.

Thanks pulled interface from MPU problem goes away.

Checked wires all good.

The opto PCB looks corroded. I have a spare chip. You recommend changing it?

I changed the larger cap on it last night

#3531 32 days ago
Quoted from ignat:

Thanks.
Thanks pulled interface from MPU problem goes away.
Checked wires all good.
The opto PCB looks corroded. I have a spare chip. You recommend changing it?
I changed the larger cap on it last night

Mine was corroded as well, I just replaced mine because even after cleaning corrosion and changing chips, caps and diodes, board still had intermittent issues. But you can always try and see what happens

#3532 32 days ago

Hold on which PCB are you referring too?

My bidirectional motor drive is corroded.

#3533 32 days ago
Quoted from ignat:

Hold on which PCB are you referring too?
My bidirectional motor drive is corroded.

I replaced both bi directional and opto interface board.

When u unplug bi directional board, does the error go away?

#3534 32 days ago

Nope. It doesn’t.

Now it’s saying all 1-3 rows are shorted

Since I turned the machine on I think the mini pf has raised once.

#3535 32 days ago
Quoted from ignat:

Nope. It doesn’t.
Now it’s saying all 1-3 rows are shorted
Since I turned the machine on I think the mini pf has raised once.

Unplug the opto interface board as well and see if the problem goes away or if it goes back to the MPU

#3536 32 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Unplug the opto interface board as well and see if the problem goes away or if it goes back to the MPU

With the opto board unplugged it doesn’t say ground fault but it’s complaining about the switches.

#3537 32 days ago
Quoted from ignat:

With the opto board unplugged it doesn’t say ground fault but it’s complaining about the switches.

Plug in your bi directional board and leave opto unplugged. If no faults, then I would say bad LM339 chips on opto board

#3538 32 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Plug in your bi directional board and leave opto unplugged. If no faults, then I would say bad LM339 chips on opto board

With just Bi directional it just complains about the switches. Doesn’t say ground error.

#3539 32 days ago
Quoted from ignat:

With just Bi directional it just complains about the switches. Doesn’t say ground error.

Thats good. I would say the 3 LM339 chips are bad on the board or the diodes and caps have blown as well.

Pinwiki has a nice guide for testing for bad chips on the opto boards

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC

#3540 32 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yep, sounds like you are close.

Believe I have a broken wire somewhere. What is correct voltage for pin 2-9 on J1 connector for Opto interface board? I am reading 3 volts on the pins. Kinda think these should all be 12 volts.

#3541 32 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Believe I have a broken wire somewhere. What is correct voltage for pin 2-9 on J1 connector for Opto interface board? I am reading 3 volts on the pins. Kinda think these should all be 12 volts.

Visually inspect all 3 harnesses.
2 on tbe mpf and the one that goes to the backbox.

I found tons of hacks and bare wire in mine.

I even found wires twisted together and taped in tne corrugated sleeves lol.

Then i ohmed out every single wire and connector.

I did this when i had the harnesses out of the game though.

I cut out all the nylon ties and replaced them.

Any marginal connectors, i repinned the molex or replaced the IDC's.

It was a bit of work.
But it was needed after 30 years of hacks and neglect.

#3542 32 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Kinda think these should all be 12 volts

I agree, there are no 3v systems

#3543 32 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Visually inspect all 3 harnesses.
2 on tbe mpf and the one that goes to the backbox.
I found tons of hacks and bare wire in mine.
I even found wires twisted together and taped in tne corrugated sleeves lol.
Then i ohmed out every single wire and connector.
I did this when i had the harnesses out of the game though.
I cut out all the nylon ties and replaced them.
Any marginal connectors, i repinned the molex or replaced the IDC's.
It was a bit of work.
But it was needed after 30 years of hacks and neglect.

So frustrated right now, but has to be done. I know the drill, have done it many times before. Just so time consuming.

#3544 31 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

So frustrated right now, but has to be done. I know the drill, have done it many times before. Just so time consuming.

I was shocked when i went thru mine as to what i found.

I worked on the harnesses for 2 days until i felt that they would go another 30 years.

Yes its utter drugery, but you need to at least, take wire and connector failures out if the equation.

My back is hurting just thinking about it.

#3545 31 days ago

Jeepers!!! My time expandor works like a well-oiled machine everytime. No fancy opto boards or 3D printed stuff. What Am I doing wrong?

#3546 31 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Jeepers!!! My time expandor works like a well-oiled machine everytime. No fancy opto boards or 3D printed stuff. What Am I doing wrong?

Nothing, u r lucky. Mine was working 100%, then boom. Stuff fails and it is a pain tracking down intermittent issues, but I will get it. Just makes me mad, cus my T2 restore is on hold and it is 90% finished

#3547 31 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Jeepers!!! My time expandor works like a well-oiled machine everytime. No fancy opto boards or 3D printed stuff. What Am I doing wrong?

It will work until is doesnt like all pinball games.

Give it another 100,000 plays, 100 operator hacks, and check back lol !

Then you will be looking for unobtanium parts and every single piece of tbe game will be worn to hell.

Most games are pretty beat down.
It takes patience and some luck to sort them out quickly.

My over the top high end restore plays like a dream.

Its not for everyone, but i really enjoy it.

#3548 31 days ago

I need a pic of connectors J1,J2, J3,J4,J5 and J6 on Opto Interface board. Just realised the manual page 3-12 has the connectors incorrect, at least how I am reading it. The key spots are in the wrong locations for J4 and J6. This could be my whole issue is the connectors are all pinned wrong.

See my pic.
A14530 (resized).jpg

#3549 30 days ago

Got some time to work on my Doctor Who this week, got the mini PF taken out. One of the target optos is dead, and another one I think is really close to dying, so I plan on replacing the boards... pinballinreno - how long did it take for your set from PindoraBox to arrive? I think that's the ones I am going to go with. Are the receivers short enough that you didn't have to shave them down or anything? I may also spring for a new opto carrier from swinks, those look pretty stout!
I had a problem with my controlled lights, but that's figured out now. Once the MPF is done, I should be fully operational. That's going to be nice, I haven't played this game in about 6 or 7 years!

#3550 30 days ago
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:

Got some time to work on my Doctor Who this week, got the mini PF taken out. One of the target optos is dead, and another one I think is really close to dying, so I plan on replacing the boards... pinballinreno - how long did it take for your set from PindoraBox to arrive? I think that's the ones I am going to go with. Are the receivers short enough that you didn't have to shave them down or anything? I may also spring for a new opto carrier from swinks, those look pretty stout!
I had a problem with my controlled lights, but that's figured out now. Once the MPF is done, I should be fully operational. That's going to be nice, I haven't played this game in about 6 or 7 years!

I just recieved my pindora board, took 2 weeks for shipping. Read through this thread for pics and info. I used a thin piece of fishpaper to raise the blue board so that the e-clips did not hit the IR's. Swinks's carrier is perfect. It is best to add black side shields to the outside edge to block light.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
3,900 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
New Albany, OH
There are 3741 posts in this topic. You are on page 71 of 75.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside