Which one? The top side or the whomobile underneath?

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They come with new ramps.
Difficult to scan as they have glue on them.

I have had very good results with cell phone close up images Edited in GIMP.

Laser print on vinyl paper, stuck on with 3m decal tape.

Pinballgoddess just posted her 1st billion score. She absolutely loves her new game.

And Shes kicking my a@@! On scores.

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Look what came in the mail!
Has anyone installed one of these?

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I think the shaker is pre-programmed.

You have to select the game from the drop down when ordering.

It looks very easy to install.

Reporting back on my time expander problem, thanks Catch86 and pinballinreno , after reversing the motor wires I no longer have any faults during test! Now I can finally re-assemble everything and get it back out on location. Thank you!

Yay!
Exactly what happened to me lol!

How hard is it to put a red dot on the correct side of a motor?

Oh well at least there are real parts available!

My MPF is smooth as butter.
Zero rocking etc...

All it took was all new parts and 16 hours tweaking it.....

Yours will be the same.

Excellent. You’re very welcome.

I installed the pinsound shaker.

Sad disappointment!

There doesnt seem to be any sound packages that have shaker included.

I cant even test it to see it work.

So, no shakes, it's just a paperweight.

Pinsound's website is incredibly difficult to get any information at all about the shaker.

What is the master shaker file that is available?

Where is it available?

How does one get it?

Crickets.....

Very disappointing...

I guess I'll have to make something up in the studio program over a few weeks.

Just to see if it works.

Again, a disappointing day.

I think each orchestration needs to be updated by the creator or someone willing to do it.

I may do a Radiohead orchestration next for my Dr. Who. Best to ask the creator of the orchestration you are using to see if they plan to update it.

With the very patient, knowledgeable and expert help of pinsider @mr_tantrum.

I made up a shakerization package of my own.

Its way easier than I thought. Actually had a pretty good setup in about 30mins.

It seems daunting but after diving into it (with a safety line from @mr_tantrum) its fun and easy!

It doesnt take weeks but rather minutes to get started. I was just frustrated and wanted to see it work NOW! lol

As an added plus, Once you get a shaker setup you like, you can just copy the config file to any or all of the sound package folders on your usb drive.

It doesnt change anything at all. It just adds the shakers if you havent changed anything else.

You dont have to touch it after its done. Just copy and paste.

Pinsound is calling your output file from pinsound studio, the master config file.

Now I feel like adjusting some volumes on my existing sound packages. Very simple and easy to do with pinsound sudio.

Learning new stuff can be fun!

Public service announcement:

PINSOUND SHAKER ROCKS!!!!!!

(End of announcement)

I just installed my headphone station from pinsound.

It's really nice!

It does indeed act as an external volume control without headphones connected.

It also let's you change tracks on the pinsound system via the volume control, without headphones!

However i had to use extended length 2 3/4" leg bolts to install it.

Regular 2 1/2" bolts were too short with the metal cab protectors I installed.

While playing last night I got a switch 27 right kicker opto error.

Sure enough it doesn't respond in switch test.

Pretty odd. Brand new optos all around. But ya never know these days. Might just be a bad one.

Or a broken wire...

10 opto board is brand new, but it's a homepin....

I'll take it apart tonight and investigate.

:/

Luckily they are very simple boards

I have the old 10 opto board still, for swap out testing.

I'm hoping/betting on a bad opto or broken off wire.

Its acting like no beam, always interrupted opto condition.

The game keeps trying to eject the non-existant ball fron the kicker.

Opto failure due to hot wire broken off the opto transmitter.

The existing wires are a bit brittle.

I'll replace with super flexable silicone wire if it happens again.

So, a simple repair.

Game is running flawlessly!

Dialing in the shakers and volumes on pinsound.

Pinsound with shaker ROCKS!

As a fan of the show I was thrilled to find a machine locally to add to the collection.

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Definitely has cabinet fade, scuffs, and dings. . . but I was won over by the motorized Dalek topper. I've not read thru the entire thread yet (just the first ten pages or so) to learn the breakdown of serial numbers, but if Bally started around 60000 this one could be number 43.

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The topper's inner workings:

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Dalek close up -- I did not notice any glue residue between the head/body to suggest the mechanics are an add on.

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So far I'm really liking the game. . . looks like something in the collection is heading to the marketplace to provide a spot for the Doctor!

What an awsome find!
The first 100 or so had the motorized dalek stock!

Definitely worth restoring.

Please let me convince you to buy a PinSound board too. The music in the game does get a bit grating after a while. There is ONE music track. It’s really nice to have alternative choices, otherwise the game can start to get on one’s nerves..

Doctor'n the tardis is so much fun!

I switch over to it every few games.

Pinsound is amazing!

Right now I'm normalising all the audio tracks for all of the orchestrations.

It a bit of work but it seems no one ever did it.

Volumes are crazy low or high on all the mixes in a lot of areas.

To have -6 as a starting point is a must.

The playfield does not suggest prototype. Notice the cloak on Jon Pertwee... the prototype is solid tanish.. this has a checkerboard pattern.
Still an awesome game. Get the colorDMD... I think it makes a better impact on the gameplay than the motorized topper.

faz

I dont think it's a proto.

Just one of the early production games with the motor.

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@dsuperbee‘s Time Expander light mod installed!

Let's get an instruction posted with many many details, like Faz's guide.

If I walk away from a game to answer a phone call it goes into ball search.

Can this be turned off?

Gotta have it! Awesome!

Can't, sold my game earlier this evening.

Dan has been gently pushing me to make a kit for these. Still on the fence about it.

Yes

The game does not know there is a ball there. Maybe the switch underneath is faulty?

Can you give me details on what you are finding with the orchestrations. I tried to make sure the music tracks are louder than the vocal tracks, etc. It seems ok on my game. Don’t really notice any issues. Could it be the settings for the Pinsound board as well? Always looking to improve the orchestrations. Thanks.

You have to set each callout / music track / sound effect, etc individually. There is a global setting that sets how much the game turns down the music while a callout is playing, but a lot of times you have to change each callout itself individually in order to get them sounding at roughly equal volume. It takes a LOT of time and can be different depending on how your game is set up (which speakers installed, etc). Sound is so much harder to get leveled than video

Had the same problem. Turns out the Shooter lane switch was slightly out of alignment. If the ball sits all the way back then the switch actually starts to come back up ever so slightly. If you test the switch it will be fine but when the ball sits back, then the switch can become open due to the angularity of the wireform of the switch. Hmmmmm, I think I explained that well? Anyway, that's what I found.

There is just do much going on in these games, you have to start with an even setting.

All of the files have to be set to -6 and normalized before doing anything else.

Some of the volumes, in some if the mixes are so low, even at max gain you cant hear them.

Unless the game volume is way up.

I have a recording studio, so it's no trouble to normalize and add stereo effects to the files.

I think even in audacity there is a spatialization plug in.

Just time consuming lol.

I'm adding stereo, its gonna be epic!

Yes, I can very much see that happening.

I'll take a close look.

I think that's exactly what's happening.

The ball does tend to roll away from the very end of the lane.

I'm still struggling with the "M" opto on the time expander.

It was problematic when I built it.
Still problematic now.

It works, then fails. Then works again! Test shows its non-interrupted.

It's always on and has a hard time breaking the beam unless it's set just right.

But then after a day or so, it's ok.

I'm thinking of putting a shrink tube shroud around the transmitter led to limit its scope.

Sounds like a bad LED opto. Maybe clean the opto, could have oil residue on it, from fingerprints.

I was thinking that.

Its brand new, but that doesnt mean anything these days...

But it seems to be receiving real well.

Too well.

You cant break the beam with the interrupter, its always on and test verifies this.

When its apart I can break the beam with a piece of cardboard.

Maybe the transmitter is too bright?

If a reciever shorts, would it also be in an always on state?

Hmmm...

I think maybe a sleeve/shoud around the transmitter?

It needs a foreskin! Lol.

That would keep light from leaking around the interrupter maybe.

I did have to put a tube around the receiver to get it to work, when I assembled it.

So this is ongoing.

I'll try it and report back.

I thought the orchestrations are in stereo? If you can improve the sound of the Rush orchestration, I would appreciate it. Thanks.

I was assuming he meant the callouts and SFX (which really don't NEED to be in stereo). The Music - at least in my mix - is ripped from the CD releases of the soundtracks, and are in stereo. (although you do need the PinSound stereo cable or equivalent wiring)

I haven't played with the rush orchestration yet.

All music is mono originally.
Single microphone per instrament and per vocalist.

Just because the left and right channels are playing the same thing at the same time doesn't make it stereo.

Stereo is created in the studio by manipulating the pan function.

Pan the left slightly to the left.
Pan the right slightly to the right.
Center the drums.
Pan the high hats right a bit.
Pan the bass left a little.

Place vocals slightly off center.

Now you have a stereo field.

A stereo track will be in stereo.
It was created in the studio already.

One of the issues is mixing mono and stereo in the same game at the same time.

All the mono files need to be made stereo.

It doesn't have to be done for sound effects. But mono call outs sound bad in the mix and its hard to get volumes stabilized.

A faux stereo, spatializer will add a stereo effect to mono files easier than curing up multiple tracks and creating true stereo with EQ's and pan functions.

But making stereo sounds better.

It's a bit of work.

Ok, thanks. Will you be uploading the revisions to the community?

Yes

Now that we're re-assembling our Doctor Who (thanks again to everyone that helped), I thought I'd post a picture of what is turning out to be an invaluable tool. It's a little clip on light that I picked up at Hobby Lobby, it's not only excellent at getting light just where it's needed but also perfectly clips into the safety switch that the glass usually closes so I don't have to keep listening to "Warning keep hands away from mini playfield, see manual title page for more details" during testing.

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I love that little light!

This is what I use to disable the glass switch:
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Half a paper towel folded into quarters.

It may be ghetto, but works well.
And I can leave it in when raising the playfield sll the way upright.

Won't fall and break something lol.

Solved my "M" opto problem for now.

I sleeved the transmitter and reciever with some shrink tube.

Blocks are to keep the housing square when installed.

But may also be causing some light reflection to the reciever.
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I did find a curious behavior when in switch test.

If I hit the flipper buttons a lot,

Once in awhile the 'M" opto closes.

I have pounded the PF and massaged the harnesses with power on.

Difficult to replicate the fault.

GI lights can also flicker when all flippers are hit repeatedly in succesion.

This happens on a lot of games.

I'm going to refresh the driver board connections, but it doesnt look like a vibration issue.

More of a power spike/draw/surge issue.

It does it seldom with right flipper activation.

Also seldom with left flippers actuvation.

More often when both/3 flippers are pressed simultaneously.

Not every time, but I get a closure about every 15-20 flips.

Could be a bad opto pair?
Bad opto board?
Weak opto trace/contact/solder pad?

It's only the M opto that I've been struggling with.

Is there a link for the replacement optos?

I fee like replacing the opto pair or the boards as a test.

I sent a message to the vendor about this also.

There is a 3D printed part you can install to block the light. I printed one and made an extra. I haven't installed it yet but it should help. I could send you the extra if you can use it.