Sometimes different USBs work different I find. Trial and error. Sandisk seem good, I think 3.0. Some I bought new, won’t work at all.

this drive is one of the fastest out there:

https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-128GB-Supersonic-Flash-PEF128GSRUSB/dp/B00EWHNHMA/ref=sr_1_13_sspa

I think this is the same drive, only $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_btf_electronics_sr_pg1_1

You only need a USB 2.0 drive really, but as 3.0 takes over the 2.0 ones are getting more expensive due to scarcity. Faster is better in this case. None of the DW mixes are really bandwidth hogs, but some games like STTNG, IJ and CFTBL need very fast drives to keep up with the higher fidelity audio

Thank you do much for looking this up!

My flasher works, it's just the 4 bulb assembly. It looks incredibly simple.

With luck I'll have it working friday.

Still dealing with the M opto intermittantly not recieving. I think I have it fixed now.

I have the new pinsound+

I dont think its corruption, though they do get quite hot in operation.
So, you never know...

I'm using the drive that pinsound tested and recommends on their site.

Its the one they sell fo $40 preloaded.

It's a USB 3.0

One thing to note, the similar 300m/sec USB 3.1 also works pretty good.

$5-$6 on Amazon.

I bought a few of each to play around. No real difference between the 2.

For now I think it's something to do with the gain files pinsound adds when you make adjustments.

Volume changes on some files but not others?

Also some audio file overlaps with a few call outs playing simultaneously.

Do these things happen with incompatible USB sticks?

It would be good to know.

Wiping and reinstalling fixed it for now.

Pinballgoddess does love her modern mix with the added doctors.

Thanks again Rdoyle1978

Extra ball call out could be slightly louder.

Cant wait for the finished version of this mix.

I'm thinking river song and the new doctor could be added to randomly play in the same folders of some of the other call outs

Thanks. I recently bought a couple USBs to store more than one orchestration. Didn’t work with the Pinsound card. Tried different formatting options but still wouldn’t work.

Yeah, you do have to keep it within a certain range of drives. More of the USB 2.0 drives work than newer 3.0 - the Sandisk ones have been the most successful for me

That's what I bought.

I didn't shop around, I just bought the ones they specified off amazon that had the approved best results.

They are on their website.

I listed them earlier with pics in this thread.

The USB 3.1 I bought as a test and figured it would fail. But it works flawlessly for now.

It's not currently in my game.

Hi all, we couldn’t get into the theme on this one. So if you know anyone interested in this game, have my ad up. Located in NJ. Asking $3400/obo.

Post an ad and some pics in the classifieds.

A lot of people are into doctor who.

I dont think you will have trouble selling it if its playable.

Played a couple real test games.
The opto switch problems are all gone.

OMFG!!! This thing plays like a rocket!

It's a stunning game and all new parts, ramps, plungers etc. has made it tight and rock solid.

The clearcoated playfield is like butter. Smooth an FAST!

This game is never leaving!

It reminds me of WOZ mixed with AFM.

Brutal yet rewarding.

I'm so happy with the colorLED!
Looks perfect with the theme.

Here is the repro MPF opto and target button Channel as well as a spreader / light baffle. I am still yet to design a modded version with the baffles included in the channel bracket design so people don't have to get both items.

The parts can be found here:
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinkswho%3F&sort=newest

The MPF channel is a replica of the original which is laser sintered 3d printed so is solid nylon, and will be stable and highly unlikely to warp.
Who3 (resized).jpg

The Add-on is the spreader / light baffle. Simply line up to determine which 2 screws to temporarily remove from the opto boards and then insert the Spreader / Baffle and then re-install 2 of the screws again. This item will rectifier any warping by straightening your. The advantage with this design is you can still see into the channel to check things are working while removing the warp.
Who4 (resized).jpg

here is the 2 items and target buttons assembled to give you a better idea.
Who1 (resized).pngWho2 (resized).png

Stiffeners to keep the bracket from squashing when the scoop assembly is bolted down are important.

Also I think shrouds could be molded into the plastic for the optos.

I ended up adding 2 wooden squares around the middle switch to keep it from crushing down.

I also ended up adding a piece of shrink tube around the optos that didn't work to act as a shroud.

I got the idea from another pinsider who used a piece of drinking straw.

This worked well enough to solve my problem after careful trimming.
The led has to protrude about 1.5mm.

The gulf stream version of the opto boards I purchased had the longer LEDs.

Oddly this only affected the receiver side.

This is on a brand new bracket.

The 5 layers of electrical tape i added to the receiver side did 2 things.

1) added padding so that the reciever board lays flat and doesnt tilt randomly when the screws are tightened.

2) added the right amount of spacing so that the optos have good clearance from the e-clips.

Washers are difficult to install and are no longer needed.

I used electrical tape at first to wrap my opto carrier, then decided to go with the insert on Ebay. It is ice but cracked when inserted into my original carrier. I will get Swinks's upgrade once he makes an all innone version. 2 pieces is just way too much.

Great Job on the restoration!! I will be starting T2 here shortly. Just had the gun re- chromed. He'll be back!!! Lol

My Ebay insert holes were off 1/8" and very rough. A lot of rework and it still did not solve my problem.

Very amateurish part.

Swinks:

If you could just thicken the walls around each led hole, full length in a bar shaped fashion either longitudinally or vertically (think roofing beam with holes for LEDs)

1/8-5/64" or more. Just so it doesnt hit the e-clips.

You might get the stiffening and a shroud at the same time.

Much like the raised bearing surface for the interrupters, but doesn't have to be round and can go full length.

This might abrogate the necessity of the insert piece.

Thanks! Almost done.

Next: farfalla

thanks for the suggestions / thoughts

I will have the upgraded version ready by the end of the weekend with the goal to strengthen but have some sort of led shrouds but still access the clips on the targets as don't want to be a PITA to fit target buttons etc,

as for the insert for the people that only want this minor upgrade. I did a quick home print sample and the holes line up nicely and since my channel was a new one but warped this insert straightened the bracket out nicely by more than 1mm. The positive thing with this design is that in only removing 2 screws in can be slipped over installed buttons & springs and allows you to still visually check everything is ok & working with out removing the spreader.

IMG_1949 (resized).JPG

Still sorting out the 4 bulb topper light.

With the help of the schematic u found that J-120 and J-121 were reversed.

They were labeled that way whe I got it. The game works perfectly this way.

Reversing the connectors hadnt affected the GI, everything still tests out.

The orange/white wire from the topper is supposed to be on J-121 pin 8. It was on J-120 pin 8.

This has been corrected.

The black wire is supposed to be on J-118 pin 3.

This is correct.

So the wires match the schematic now.

The light doesn't light up yet, even now that its wired correctly in the game.

How to test this?

I get no voltage on either j120 or j121 pin8.

Did you check fuse F109? Did you check the voltage at F109?

Fuse is good.
Extricated the 3 wires from the harness.

While tracing the black wire I found a connector with a single black wire on it labelled "Z" buried deep in the harness.

I imagine referencing a z connector patch.

Oddly j-118 also has a black wire on pin 3. But it doesnt go to the topper.
20191018_193735 (resized).jpg

I ran 6v thru the z connector black wire at pin 3 and pin 8 on the j121 connector:
20191018_193851 (resized).jpg20191018_193929 (resized).jpg

SUCCESS!!!! LOL.

I stuck the odd z connector on and the light now works!

So, WTF is the connector labeled j118 that doesnt have my black topper wire on it?

Where does it go? Not on j118?

Or do I patch the single wire onto the 118 connector?

Let's just see...

That’s cool. However, do you have the 2-10w pcb board in there because j118 and J121 do not go directly to the topper.

I do not. I have a single PCB with 10w ceramic resistor on it.
It all tests out.

J121-8 org/wht goes directly to the topper as shown on the schematic.

J118-3 blk, confused me because it had a black wire exactly where it should be. But that "black" wire does NOT go to the topper. I haven't looked as to what it's used for yet.

However the connector marked "z" with a single black wire on pin 3 does indeed go directly to the topper.

So I pressed the 2 black wires together onto connector pin 3:

IDC are designed to put 2 wires on each space if needed:
20191018_200006 (resized).jpg

SUCCESS! everything works.

The game doesn't have a z connector unless it was patched off the display that I took out.

Very odd that it was marked "Z" on it.

That doesnt match the schematic at all. Oh well it works, yay!

The difficult part of tracking this down is that there is no voltage at the designated pins unless the GI relay is tripped.

I used the 6v power supply from my work station and some long leads to trace the light from the top down by directly applying power to the wires.

A 9v battery would also work but I dont have one here lol.

My game is an early build with midway gaming serials on it.

Later games have williams serials.

Time for s drink.
This was way tougher than it should have been lol.

Well, from what I can see or remember since I don’t have WPC schematics in front of me is that the voltage to the topper comes from F109. If you have a DMM you can measure continuity coming from F109 to the 10w pcb. BTW if you look at my 1st post it has a pic of the pcb board with 1 resistor on it. You said you have the same. Also, it’s been a long week so I’m going to sign off. Oh, and I’m assuming the resistor is there to drop the voltage ever so slightly to maybe dim the bulbs? Doesn’t make sense but who knows. I’ll check in tomorrow.

54C03079-1227-4875-8342-53D63DDB8236 (resized).jpeg

here is the upgraded target channel with baffles separating each section to block light emitting from the neighbouring sensors and these also act as strengtheners and removing all warp issues and gives a nice flat surface for the light boards. The tube running across has a larger ID so the screws are not cutting a thread.

placing the baffles here means you can still get access to the clips on the target buttons and check operation.

I also added 1mm to the sensor ports cut to aid in light protection though am thinking these are not needed but was a request ???
channel - upgraded (resized).jpg

That looks great!

By patching the errant wire, I found buried in the harness, to the correct location, and reversing the j120 and j121. everything now works!

In fact everything is starting to work a bit better/smoother.

Thanks for the assist!

for anyone that needs or wants a MPF sensor & mushroom target bracket (replica or upgraded or insert) you can head here

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinkswho%3F&sort=newest

the first one pictured is red (just wanted it to stand out) but there is a selection of colours - unfortunately I have no control over the printing costs especially for the black

upgrade (resized).jpg

That looks just about perfect.

Just re-decaled the force field as a finishing touch.

It was pretty beat up with torn graphics:

IMG_20191018_203149_01 (resized).jpg

IMG_20191018_203149_02 (resized).jpg

IMG_20191018_203149_03 (resized).jpg

20191019_125136 (resized).jpg

20191019_130048 (resized).jpg

That looks great. Did you buy those? And from where?

I printed them on vinyl laser rated paper with a color laser printer.

Very durable, wont scratch or rub off. Its water and detergent proof. So, windex, sparkle, mist n shine, novus1 etc doesnt affect it at all.

And it sticks like crazy!

Naptha will remove the color though.

So its good stuff, just a step down from what my print shop makes.

And I have more control as far as color and replacements.

I used rapid decal installation fluid to line them up and a felt coated squeegee to press out the bubbles.

Rapid fluid helps to activate the glue for a firmer, more permanent bond.

Installers use it on automotive decals.

Notice:

Lightning flippers ROCK !

So much fun on this game.

IMHO, they are just perfect.

If you dont have them, get them.
You wont regret it.

(End of notice. Lol)

Where are the graphics from?

Scans of original decals posted on pinside awhile back Cleaned up.
They are pretty good.
In some ways better than the originals.

The Master's head is cut off on the originals. These are better.

I'm working on an even better more accurate set.

But these are really good.

I'm really happy with the way they came out.

My game is now 100% new and plays like a dream.

It is well worth the effort.

Thanks to all who helped on this project!

I really needed and appreciated it.

Got it. Davros' head? Ah, you mean The Master

Next Decal, let me know if it is ok.

Screenshot_20191020-112417_Snapseed (resized).jpg

Oops, lol. Yes the master's head.

That looks great!
Email those 2 files please.

I'll peel mine off and replace them, better colors!

Upon reflection, I hope that I posted enough information to help others with their restorations.

Any questions please ask!
Or PM me.

I really had a great time on this one.

Game made it to its destination today:
20191020_152257 (resized).jpg20191020_155029 (resized).jpg20191020_155251 (resized).jpg
Pinballgoddess absolutely loves it! I've never seen her so happy about a game. Well it "is" Doctor Who...lol

The game plays like a dream!

Looks good amongst those newer games. My collection will be there again..ugh Divorce claimed my last collection.

That is absolutely, bar none the best DW I have ever seen.

Only cost as much as a new game, but hey, it is only Money LMAO

Thanks! It was a little work, but very rewarding.

I just love the game.

I know I keep saying it, but it really plays like a dream.

Plays as good or better than any NIB game I have bought.

The work pays off in gameplay.
The game feels rock solid.

Looks great dude, nice job!

Yeah but doing the work yourself makes it a one of a kind experience- i bet that game never gets sold

I buy my share of NIB games a bit.

And yeah, a brand new game costs a bit whether you build it or buy it.

All brand new parts makes a brand new game.

Pinballgoddess asked me if I could make it like brand new.

She wasn't interested in an old beat up game (I spoiled her on all NIB ones).

Doctor Who is a dream game for a fan of the series.

So the answer is "yes!". Just time and money lol.

A better than NIB, HEP style and quality Doctor Who is just a joy to have.

We are very happy with it.