No. The ramps decals are not available, but most of the other are.

At some point I’m going to re-adhere my ramp decals... I’ll try to remember to scan them

All except the ramp decals.

I'm working on them but my scanner is too small.

Playing in GIMP is a lot of fun.
You can change up anyhing.

Got the playfield and ramps installed today.
Zero solenoid errors.

I used the all lamp + flashers test to get my 5smd tower flashers the correct polarity. Oddly most were backwards lol.
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I think the 5smd are perfect replacements for the 906 bulbs.

The game has a single 89 bulb.
I put a 8smd tower that comet recommended for the #89.

Worked perfectly and didn't have the polarity issue. It just worked lol.

The tardis blue light is a 2smd sunlight with a blue sleeve/condom from my funhouse stuff. It looks way blue in person.

Pinballgoddess went through everything from blue LED to painted blue #555, to a couple of different color condoms.

She liked the azure blue that the funhouse condoms created off of the sunlight led.
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Tomorrow I'm putting in the time expander.

I hope it tests out.

Crossing my fingers lol.

My who decal (that I made from a cell phone photo and GIMP) looks stunning!
I was worried it was too dark.
Seems just right, I'm sure someone can do better.

Send me a better colored image please lol.

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Working on it

I have to say - the USB hub tardis mod is a MUST have. Looks incredibly better than the original game’s tardis. And you can still light it properly.

That's on the list as well as the pinsound shaker.

The USB one looks great!
Mine is a bit warped and beat up lol. But its works for now.

So its Coming up as a secondary project.

It's easy to remove, I'm just getting it reassembled at this point and debugging.

I do like the gameblades.
I was on the fence about them.

But as everything is wrapping up, I think they look cool.

If you are really careful about cutting into the door, you can surround the wireform with the tardis door (or the side, i suppose if you rotate it)

Have you done this mod,?

I saw the thread outlining it.
Looks quick and easy.

Yep, it looks awesome. My
Pics are somewhere in the thread. You just have to mark out where the wireform is (I made a paper template and then transferred it to the tardis). The USB thing comes apart in 6 pieces - the top comes off and the 4 walls
And base are individual pieces. Remove th screws ,Disassemble, Remove The USB ports And wiring, remove The Speaker, reassemble and make That paper template.

You
Will also need to cut the base a bit, and you can reuse the metal pieces that affix the original toy to
The playfield.
Oh and add a blue light inside of course!

Where did you buy the translite? Thanks.

Ebay.
I really think it modernizes the game exactly how I wanted it.

ebay.com link: 0

Thanks, might have to pick this up.

Tome expander did not go well.

Locks dont work.
No CW and no CCW errors.
Switch 76 error:

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Switch 76 opto in the left lock functions barely. But can be triggered, so it sorta works.

I have to stuff my finger deep into the saucer to activate it.

Looks like an alignment issue.

I have homepin opto board and homepin bi-directional motor driver board installed.

I have had only marginal success with homepin boards.

But I think the homepin opto board is ok as all optos work if aligned properly.

The motor driver board might be suspect.

So 1st thing today is to swap out both boards back to the hacked up originals for a baseline.

Then proceed.

The 5 switch opto unit gave me a lot of touble, but its solid now.

I have the replacement led boards in it.

The reciever side LEDs are too long.

They hit the e-clips on the interrupters and cause the stitches to stick down.

I added 1/16" nylon washers under the mounting screws on reciever (dark) side only and it works to solve the interference issue.

I bought the 3d printed insert to do a professional job on this.

Dont buy it! The led holes dont line up and it's not drilled for the screw holes. I drilled it out for a better fit but with it installed you cant adjust the opto angles.
And this is super important!

It's a great idea but very difficult or impossible to implement.

Led alignment is super important or the opto stays enabled and you cant break the beam.

With the stock original you can slightly bend the optos to get them all to work while its plugged into the game. Then wrap it up for installation onto the MPF.

It's not even an issue of the LEDs being perfectly straight or aligned to each other. The reciever just has to hide behind the interrupter cleanly.

Too much errant light from the opposing transmitter will lock it on.

Adding the washers to receiver board makes it way thicker.

This along with paper and tape makes it even more thicker.

This causes the scoop to crush it when you bolt it down, throwing off your opto alignments.

Adding washers under the feet of the scoop assembly solves this.
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Optos switches are now flawless, and using the homepin replacement board.

In fact all optos in the game work petfectly.

Eventually those washers will cause alignment issues and/or binding - it will eventually damage the playfield.

You can grind down the tips of the Opto transmitters (and/of receivers), and they will still work. Scary I know - but they work - Much better long term strategy. Use a dremel and just grind them down or cut the very tip off. It should be relatively clear and not too cloudy , but if it’s a tiny bit cloudy it’s actually not a bad thing

I ground off 3/64" of the opto recievers. It took that much to not hit the e-clips.

Opto assembly was working perfectly before this modification.

Polished them up to mirror.

Now they dont work at all, completely dead on the reciever side.
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I have an old worn out set of gulf stream version boards. They work but are very weak.

New boards ordered from k's arcade.

Maybe they will be from a different vendor? We'll see.

Plenty to do while waiting for new boards.

This might be the culprit...
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(Opto installed upside down)

This error was tough.

I currently have the old hacked bi-directional motor board installed.

But this:
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1) Light leaking under the cam makes it so that you cannot trigger the opto by breaking the beam.

I added 2 #6 flat washers under each opto and the movement error is gone.

2) new error, cw is reversed.

Ok, the old hacked motor controller gives me a single error.

The homepin board gives me 2 errors:

Cw direction reversed
Ccw direction reversed.

Betting that the old motor controller board is past its prime and failing, I pulled the pins from the motor molex and reversed them.
Leaving the homepin motor board in the game.

Easy fix.

With the homepin board there are no errors now.

It took a couple cycles for the error to clear.

So, I'm calling the homepin board a success!

Wow, 2 homepin boards and they both work perfectly...yay!

So right now the game is functioning perfectly except:

No opto switches work in the opto assembly.

It's the same regardless of the homepin opto board or the original hacked one. So I'm calling the homepin board a complete success. It works perfectly.

Outside of the assembly the sender and recievers (on my beat up old set of boards) work but only if they are near touching.

The senders are bright and vivid in the camera test.

It seems that my old beat up receiver board, though polished up, is very weak.

Or I have a power problem on the receiver side?

Old receivers work like crap?

What voltage should the receivers show?

Remember the brand new set of boards worked perfectly before sanding off the tops of the LEDs.
Very touchy but they worked.

I agree that my

washers,-under-the-scoop-feet,

fix was short term at best, so it's no great loss.

I'm very curious to see what k's arcade sends me.

My time expander is a little clunky and does wobble a little.

It doesnt do this on the workbench. It's pretty smooth.

It has all new parts and had no binding during assembly.

I'm not adverse to pulling it apart.
It's probably time for some fine tuning now that all the difficult game errors are gone.

What would cause this?
What are common areas to look at?

The inside of the assembly is usually worn uneven, due to lack of lubrication and maintenance. Even replacing the bearing rollers will still not fix the uneven effect.

Oh no! No signal at all? You can always re-solder the receivers with the short (proper) ones available at Marco. Check the connections and soldering on the board - they may have been shaken loose by all the cutting

Have you applied silicon lube?

Yep.
I'll take a look at it on the bench.
It works ok, just a little clunky.

I have to look and see if its hitting anything, but I dont think it is.

It's a pretty clean install.

Maybe, I'll check.
But it's all of them, 100% dead.

Game is near 100%

Just need the MPF switch optos sorted out.

This is good to know.
I did replace the rollers and the main bracket. It had huge wear areas like it was routed out by a machinist lol.

The inner bracket is original.

I'll take a look at it more when I sort out the opto assembly in a few days.

Thanks!

Check the ground connection - it is shared by all the optos, both Rx and Tx on each board, maybe that is out

Yes!

I do have to check out the molex connector in the harness. It seems good though as it was working, but maybe a wire broke.

It could be flakey, or a broken/cracked wire?

I need to find out the voltage for the receiver side to be more sure about that system.

I finally re-installed the dalek topper.

The 906 flasher is replaced with a 5smd tower and tests out and works properly.

The little 4 light board tests out and works on my workbench.

But doesnt light on the game during all lamp test or flasher test.

I imagine its attached to a dalek mode and only lights via a voice call out?

How do I test it?
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I haven't put the mirrored vinyl on the back of the tub yet.

I'm on the fence about the animated dalek mod.

Marco has the motor, and the PC board and mount is easy to make.

But, reviews say its flakey and stops all the time due to code issues.

So I dunno...

There are pros and cons to the whomobile switch covers.

For now I'm going with the originals.

I made the stickers slightly smaller to fit better.

Yes they look dumb, but they make me chuckle and sorta match the cheesy-ness of the early TV series lol.

Silver leg bolts are intentional.
I thought they looked dalek-like.

Those worn areas make the up and down motion more wobbly, plus the original deaign is awful. If you can buy Ulf's linear kit, I suggest it. Mine is so smooth now with is kit.

I think I will get Ulf's kit.

I'm not impressed with the original mech now that it's up and running.

I just want to know how durable and trouble free it is after a few thousand games.

Did u put a new motor/gearbox in? I know his friend is working on a new bidirectional motor board with great new features.

Ok, worked on a decal today, cleaned it up. Need to print to see if colors are close. If this is good I will make up a sheet with this and some others that I am working on.
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Wow! That's dead on perfect!
I'm looking forward to getting it.

I was playing with the rounded corner tool in GIMP, its way cool.

Now, how to get my printer to match the screen...it can be way off.

A single hole, hole-punch makes the perfect sized hole on this.

I'm thinking about escape target stickers. There's got to be a cool idea out there.

The PDI ones are ok. A bit over priced but just ok.

I did.

When I got my game the MPF was completely dead and frozen.

This probably caused the motor board to fail.

The homepin motor board I bought, is a bit more robust than the original.

And it actually works, so far.

Thanks, next is the WHO ramp, I need to clean the white areas up a bit. I want nice decals for everyone.

You ROCK!

Thanks!

Easy to do, but one has to have a 11 x 17 scanner/printer.

It might be possible to cut the images in half so that regular printers can make an acceptable sticker for the longer ones.

I know someone else in this group was working on a few of the larger ramp decals but have not heard from them lately. If someone can snap pics of them, I can work on them.

The larger one need to go to a printer service, unless your printer can do roll feed

Yep.

But if the artwork was reworked in halves, I think it would look the same after the stickers are applied.
The cut seams would be neglegible or 1/8" overlap, and could be printed on one sheet.

Cut by hand or cameo/silhouette machine.

Then anyone could print it.

I know, its a lot of photo work...

Ill see what I can do.

I would not do a half sticker. Just my opinion.