I thought about yellow or orange skirts. Those would really add color!

I kept the bodies white so as not to cast a color that alters the playfield color.

Blue or multi color caps are still on the table as an option. We'll see lol.

Thank You.

Thus should be really easy to make out of 1/20" or 1/16" scrap:
20190921_122900 (resized).jpg20190921_122916 (resized).jpg20190921_123012 (resized).jpg20190921_123052 (resized).jpg

The switch mounting hole on the right is slotted for adjustment.

Thank you. I already have the material, just needed hole to hole spacing. How long is the blade on the switch?

From the absolute rear of the actuator arm itself to the end, 1 3/8"

Got some mech's renewed/replaced lol.

Put in 100 wire ties. So the wiring looks a little less birds nesty...

Evidently in the past when chasing down a bad wire, you really don't need to replace the wire ties you chopped out lol.

20190921_184228 (resized).jpg20190921_184236 (resized).jpg

Slings were a disaster. Needed new brackets, arms,springs, hinges and sleeves.

Coils were good! Lol.

Probably have the mechs completed monday.

I'll do some solenoid tests then.

Still waiting for the reese rails, but they are coming soon!

Then tackle the topside!

Maybe play a game in a couple weeks.

Pinballgoddess is chomping at the bit!

I bought the LEDOCD system.

I look forward to seeing it do its magic.

The LED's seem a bit harsh right now.

Bought a doctor sunday Don't know if i can say i bought it, the guy actually donated it for 1.35K to me xD
Allready bought a new motor and gearbox, new rubber kit and rebuild kit for the power driver board

How does the time expander look? You might need the cliffy kit.

Rebuilding tha cap ball popper assembly.

It seems that the wrong armature was being used:
20190923_125848 (resized).jpg

Its way too long. This must be why my wireform is all bent up.

I wonder how many games have the wrong part installed.

Should be this one, part number a-15580:
20190923_125903 (resized).jpg

Difficult but not impossible to get.
I got a couple from Phil at pinball heaven UK.

You also have to get the end cap and nut when ordering.

Also the screwheads go on the inside, nuts on the back.

Mine, with the wrong armature, was hitting the nuts and not going all the way up.

20190923_155030 (resized).jpg

New optos installed from my stash of 15 years ago.

The new ones, available now, are slightly different but work the same.

I have the answer finally about which flipper bat goes where.

Left and right flippers are lightning.

Manual Page 2-18

A-16090-L-4
Flipper Assembly (Upper Left)

22 20-9350-6 (standard yellow wiliiams flipper)

So, lightning bolt flippers for left and right.

Also calls for red flipper rubber.
I'm going with black perfect play rubber.
Standard flipper for the upper left.
20190923_170927 (resized).jpg

Told ya!! Glad you found some evidence

Lol.

I have been going thru all my mechs and comparing what I have vs the assembly diagram in the manual.

Its amazing how creative people are in the wild lol.

I'm on the flipper mechs now, mine are a disaster. It looks like even the coils are molested
.
All the others are done.

And sure enough, the manual states exactly how they should be! Lol

pinballinreno the cliffy kit is allready installed playfield protector is installed and it's in full led. cabinet is bad, and need full new decals, and also the inserts need new decals, Also the miniplayfield needs a new gearbox, but i allready ordered that one

That doesn't look too bad at all!

I want to rebuild my escape target assembly.

Its doubtful that new assemblies will be available any time soon, or ever.

Part number a-15439

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15439

Its composed of 6 switches:

SW 1a-178-4

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-1A-178-4

It looks like they used drilled-out tinnermans for washers and riveted it to the backplate.

Marco is out of the switches for a few months....

So maybe get these:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-4

It's the same switch with a diode and mounting bracket.

I have to grind off the rivets anyway to bolt it to the backplate.

Rebuilding it this way makes for easy replacement and switch adjustment in the future.

As it stands now, the switch metal backstops are highly fatigued and even though I adjusted it, I think that the ball will just flatten out the switches in a short amount if time.

The nylon faces are a bit cracky and I would have to remove the switches just to re-rivet new faces.

I think bolt up is a better way to go, if it will fit. It's pretty snug right there.

Has anyone else rebuilt this assembly?

While waiting for parts, installed fresh serial number stickers:
20190927_121546 (resized).jpg20190927_121558 (resized).jpg

I think they came out really good.

I also got a really nice patent sticker that I didnt use. I silkscreened mine:

20190927_125428 (resized).jpg
20190927_125121 (resized).jpg

Pinballgoddess was not impressed with my black flipper rubber concept.

I was strongly encouraged to use ONLY red perfect play rubbers:

20190927_121242 (resized).jpg

Not Tardis blue ?!?!

Where did you get the serial number stickers?

Inkochnito can give you a template or if you provide info he can make them and you can print them yourself

I beleive the flipper rubber conversation started with:

"That black looks terrible!"

"Look at the lane guides, look at the playfield!. They all have red outlines that are supposed to travel through the flippers."

"All your taste is on your mouth!" etc...

Like I said, I'm just a grunt on this one...

As far as stickers,

Pinsider athens95 made them for me at treasure cove.

They have made some great custom shopout stickers. As well as a bunch of other great items.

I tried to scan my ramp decsls.
They are too big for my scanner.

I can carefully peel of my old ones and send them?

Hopefully they dont get ripped up. I'll use acetone and rapid adhesive remover.

Odd retrofit/repair/mash-up of a EOS and some other contact, I ran across while changing them all out.
20190927_164933 (resized).jpg
20190927_164914 (resized).jpg

It worked!

So I removed my Time Expander and in the process of unplugging the connectors I pulled a wire out of one of the smaller connectors. It’s the one that powers the lamps on the cover (4 pin connector). Does anyone know the size those terminal plugs are? There are two sizes of connector pins and the one I need to replace is the smaller pin diameter

Larger pins are usually .093 and smaller can be .062 pins

If you want to fix your opto errors in the Time Expander then use this:

ebay.com link: Bally Dr Who Pinball Machine Time Expander Opto Fix

Simple to install and you WILL feel like a pro.

Managed to get the MPU fixed up on my game yesterday. Replaced u18, u19, u20. Also cleaned up some spots, removed the battery holder, and reflowed a bunch of solder. It looks good so far. Game is playing without resets and without the daughterboard.

During play the mpf seems to start off well with locks and raising, but then got a bit confused after a jackpot shot and was stuck between the second and third positions.

MPF probably needs a complete refresh. New motor, optos and adjustment.

Put the game in test mode and run the MPF up and down. Check for slop in the main assembly. Replace optos and clean the assembly unit. Motor/gear box are usually ok. If ya have the extra money, buy the motor/gear box.

Ok cool thanks for the input. I wasn't able to test the MPF previously as the coin door controls weren't functioning properly (MPU problems). Once I saw it was working, I went straight into play the game mode I am planning one doing a teardown to clean it up and put in new lights and fix up problems it may have. Is the time expander opto fix (ebay link just above my post) a recommended add-on or only to fix a specific issue?

I gave my wife the choice of red, green or blue, and she took red too. Looks good, IMO.

Lol, yeah I think it looks pretty good.

And matches the rubber color in the manual!

It is a solid fix! Worth the money and the opto cover as well

Interesting! I thought they always used black rubbers and rings from the factory.

What post goes here?
I dont have a picture of it, and I dont have a left over post.
Might have been missing on my game, a long with a lot if other parts lol.
20191001_105315 (resized).jpg20191001_105323 (resized).jpg

I thought so too.

See my post #2912

Item 21 from the manual, red rubber.

I finished installing new plastics and noticed this little one is not lit.
There's an access hole under it.

So I added a light, chained off the nearby GI string.

10 min job, easily removed if it's a problem.

Plenty of room left for the tardis light cable in the same hole
20191001_130451 (resized).jpg20191001_130530 (resized).jpg20191001_130816 (resized).jpg

Note:
Bally/Midway Master Parts catalog. ( YELLOW )
Search pg. #611
pg. 7-4c.
Dr. Who #20006
Game and Part Quantity.
------------------------------------ QTY
20-9250-6 Yellow, 2-3/16" shaft ------ 3
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The lighting design flippers where first put into production on
Popeye saves the Earth.
Bally/Midway Master Parts catalog. ( GREY )
Search pg. #563
pg. 7-3

The manual states 2 lightning flippers for the lowers and one standard for the upper left.

All yellow.

The part numbers from the manual bear this out.

With red flipper rubber.

This metal wire is responsible for cabinet gouging.
20191001_134935 (resized).jpg

It basically sticks out 1/4" past the playfield.

Tap it with a hammer to locate it on the wooden siderail.

Drill a 1/16" hole at a slight angle about 5/16" deep that somewhat matches the wire angle.

Put a drop of titebond on the wire.
Stuff it into the hole you made.

Now it sits fairly flush and no more gouging of the cabinet wall.

To be fair, the sagging playfield conteibuted quite a bit to the gouge. I did have to adjust that bracket.

Yes! I had 2 big gouges.
One from the backboard dragging.

The other from this wire sticking out.

My cabinet was tweaked and not square in 2 directions.

This made it 1/8" narrower than standard.

Fixed it up, along with a few other adjustments, now the playfield pivots properly.

I'm working on a Doctor also.

20190915_154822 (resized).jpg

Yes it does...
But the game was produced with all 20-9250-6 Yellow, 2-3/16" shaft.
Check the master parts catalog...
The game proto/sample game has a animated
Dalek figure on top of the back box.
But the production is a static figure. ( master parts catalog "static figure")
Even the games flyer does not mention the animated Dalek.
I believe what happened, is that the balls would drain to easily
between the flippers when kicked out of the "Time Expander" unit.(e.g. Pinbot )
So regular flippers where installed.
20-9250-6 are a tad longer than 20-9734-6.
Or the manufactures for the new flippers could not make/meet production run.
But most likely, costs.
Dr. Who's game flyer doesn't promote the new flipper design but Popeye's does.
I never saw lighting flippers til Popeye saves Earth came out.

Great news!

As far as I can tell my Dr Who has the original flipper bats on it. They are all yellow. Upper left is a standard size and the two lower are lightning flippers. It was a regular production game. Not one of the early prototypes with the animated moving Dalek.

Yes. Original production games came this way evidently.

They did make 7000 games. A lot can happen in a run that big.

There is some contraversy though. I'd like someone like Lloyd to chime in who opened a NIB game.

I imagine, route ops had the option of changing to standard flippers to increase revenue if needed.

The 1/8" difference is marginal but could have big impact on ball times.

I can always put in standard flipper bats if I want.

But I really like the idea of the lightning flippers.

It's a first for me in my collection.

It's worth pointing out that B/W manuals are notorious for errors. That said, having owned 3 DW in the past, -ALL THREE - came with lightning flippers on the bottom.