(Topic ID: 76377)

Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!


By HoakyPoaky

5 years ago



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  • 302 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by pinballinreno
  • Topic is favorited by 141 Pinsiders

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There are 2859 posts in this topic. You are on page 57 of 58.
#2801 5 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Go into switch test and see if your opto switches are working. That error on mine ended up being the opto board under the PF, a cap goes bad on it and takes out a trace, you’ll need to replace the cap and run a jumper.

Interesting. This error won’t let me into the settings at all, can’t get past the screen. Yours let you in when you had it?

#2802 5 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

The mods are there. The whomobile was remade, and could have lights added to it.

Sure, the whomobile. But that was used only in 1 season, and is a (nice) upgrade to the game - there are so many other potential mods to be had. I made a K-9 one that said “affirmative” every few times you made the loop shot, and a sonic screwdriver mod which sat in the shooter lane and flashes along with the game ... but there’s got to be other options!

#2803 5 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The strip is just the standard regular unhacked one.
It comes from the factory populated with screw in 555 sockets.
If you look at yours it might be redone with soldered leds?
If you have colorDMD LCD version, people hack the light strip to make it fit.
You don't have to do that with the LED version of the colorDMD.
Show us a picture?

Here's some pics, it was probably hacked for a LCD.

20190910_123740 (resized).jpg20190910_123754 (resized).jpg20190910_123809 (resized).jpg
#2804 5 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Here's some pics, it was probably hacked for a LCD.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, modified to make it thinner for the colorDMD LCD version.

Since it looks like the color display has been removed, you could unsolder the LED's, clean up the board and re-install the screw sockets.

Or replace the existing LEDS with new ones? The newer SMD ones are brighter.

You might want to get colorDMD again...

Either way the board is not ruined in any way and can easily be adjusted.

#2805 5 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Sure, the whomobile. But that was used only in 1 season, and is a (nice) upgrade to the game - there are so many other potential mods to be had. I made a K-9 one that said “affirmative” every few times you made the loop shot, and a sonic screwdriver mod which sat in the shooter lane and flashes along with the game ... but there’s got to be other options!

My game came with this K-9. I was thinking about installing it near the shooter lane. I want try and tie the built in light to something also

20190910_125938 (resized).jpg20190910_124251 (resized).jpg
#2806 5 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes, modified to make it thinner for the colorDMD LCD version.
Since it looks like the color display has been removed, you could unsolder the LED's, clean up the board and re-install the screw sockets.
Or replace the existing LEDS with new ones? The newer SMD ones are brighter.
You might want to get colorDMD again...
Either way the board is not ruined in any way and can easily be adjusted.

Can you post a pic of the mounts on the sides holding the board. I'd like to have the correct standoffs if you want to fix it and go color LED

#2807 5 days ago

Hopefully going to take a look at a Doctor Who game tonight. Anything specific I should keep an eye on? I know it resets when double flipped. thanks!

#2808 5 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Can you post a pic of the mounts on the sides holding the board. I'd like to have the correct standoffs if you want to fix it and go color LED

Post #2720 shows my panel with colorLED.

Here is a pic of the standoffs:
20190910_121907 (resized).jpg

I dont know the part number for them.

Msybe someone can chime in?

#2809 5 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Here is a pic of the standoffs:

20190910_121907 (resized).jpg

I dont know the part number for them.

Msybe someone can chime in?

#20-9521 Standoff-nylon
Marcospecialties.

#2810 5 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Hopefully going to take a look at a Doctor Who game tonight. Anything specific I should keep an eye on? I know it resets when double flipped. thanks!

Nice! Go get it!

#2811 5 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

My game came with this K-9. I was thinking about installing it near the shooter lane. I want try and tie the built in light to something also[quoted image][quoted image]

Put him on the upper left of the playfield, Instead of the whomobile. You can remove all his guts and he will fit pretty well directly on top of the switch the whomobile covers. You can also disassemble a flasher and just take out the LEDs and leads and it will fit in his head. Then you can alligator clip him to the nearby flasher

#2812 5 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Hopefully going to take a look at a Doctor Who game tonight. Anything specific I should keep an eye on? I know it resets when double flipped. thanks!

Make SURE the mini playfield goes up and down consistently, smoothly and without hiccups or slamming up or down. If it’s hitting the playfield or the motor has an issue you will spend hours tinkering with it

Check the ramps, a lot of ramps have cracks near where they are screwed to the posts. Cliffy and (I think) Mantis make ramp protectors to cover the damage. Lots and LOTS of games have damage at the Time Protector. There is a replacement, thicker time protector that can be had for $40 (but you need to salvage the decals)

#2813 5 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Make SURE the mini playfield goes up and down consistently, smoothly and without hiccups or slamming up or down. If it’s hitting the playfield or the motor has an issue you will spend hours tinkering with it
Check the ramps, a lot of ramps have cracks near where they are screwed to the posts. Cliffy and (I think) Mantis make ramp protectors to cover the damage. Lots and LOTS of games have damage at the Time Protector. There is a replacement, thicker time protector that can be had for $40 (but you need to salvage the decals)

Thanks brother

#2814 5 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Thanks brother

Just clarifying: I meant the Time EXPANDER lol. Specifically the big plastic cover on top - Lots of games have that pretty smashed up in front

#2815 5 days ago

Repaired switch harness installed.
75% of the screw holes were stripped out.

Bamboo skewers and titebond to the rescue! Lol.

20190910_154348 (resized).jpg
I'll add a few wire ties to clean it up later.

Next is the lights/GI harness.
I have a few sockets to replace first lol.

#2817 5 days ago

I have a super clean scan of the time expander decal, I scanned an original. I printed all my own decals for Doctor Who. I can send it to you if you want to make your own decals. I also have the decals for drop targets and the time expander metal shroud.

#2818 5 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I have a super clean scan of the time expander decal, I scanned an original. I printed all my own decals for Doctor Who. I can send it to you if you want to make your own decals. I also have the decals for drop targets and the time expander metal shroud.

I think I got them from you!

I'm going to see if my sign guy can make good prints from them.

Coming up. Gotta get there first lol.

I'm also copying the ramp decal set that came with my ramps for future spares.

None seem to be available separately.

#2819 4 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think I got them from you!
I'm going to see if my sign guy can make good prints from them.
Coming up. Gotta get there first lol.
I'm also copying the ramp decal set that came with my ramps for future spares.
None seem to be available separately.

The ramp decals are the only ones I am missing. If you scan them, please send me the files.

#2820 4 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

The ramp decals are the only ones I am missing. If you scan them, please send me the files.

Will do!

#2821 4 days ago

Pinshskers.com has done a lot since I last looked at them.

Shaker can be enabled from pretty much anything! Switches, magnets motors solenoids or flashers!

So it's a hardware activated system?

Verses a sound/call out activated system from pinsound .

I wonder which is better. They both seem to have pro's and con's.

If I wanted to enable the shaker without a sound prompt the pinshaker seems like the right choice.

However the sounds offer better choreography throughout the game. I could enable the shaker at at any level, at any time based on the sound effect.

The problem occurs when you might enable the shaker where there is no sound?

What seems appropriate for Doctor Who?

Am I locked into the pinsound on this title?

Has as anyone tried the pinshaker?

#2822 4 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Pinshskers.com has done a lot since I last looked at them.
Shaker can be enabled from pretty much anything! Switches, magnets motors solenoids or flashers!
So it's a hardware activated system?
Verses a sound/call out activated system from pinsound .
I wonder which is better. They both seem to have pro's and con's.
If I wanted to enable the shaker without a sound prompt the pinshaker seems like the right choice.
However the sounds offer better choreography throughout the game. I could enable the shaker at at any level, at any time based on the sound effect.
The problem occurs when you might enable the shaker where there is no sound?
What seems appropriate for Doctor Who?
Am I locked into the pinsound on this title?
Has as anyone tried the pinshaker?

I think the Pinshaker thing is REALLY cool, but if you already have a Pinsound in the machine, it makes sense to go with that one. The sounds do offer some additional flexibility (in most cases). You can also dial in different intensities per sound, if you want to go that crazy. I'm thinking adding a low level shake when you hit the first 9 loops, and then a BIG bunch of shakes for Sonic Boom.

#2823 3 days ago

Ok guys, I picked up a Doctor Who and had a chance to take a quick look last night. The game is a reimport. Still has all incandescent bulbs.

When I checked it out with the seller the enter button on the coin door stopped working which prevented me from doing any testing. One of the batteries had leaked a bit. It looks like that is likely the cause of most of the issues. The seller was having it reset on double flips. Hopefully I can clean the MPU up and get her functional. It was flipping at the sellers but now I get pinballs missing on the display.

Playfield is pretty good overall. No bare wood that I can see so far. Novus 2 cleaned up a bunch of the gunk. Cabinet is pretty good too, faded on from and right but still looks good. Dmd has a the bottom two rows and the right two columns out. I plan to clean her up and put LEDs in it. I was thinking warm white or sunlight comets for the GI. What are you guys running?
I ordered one of the kahr daughter boards as well. Not sure I will need that but ordered it when I thought it was likely the 5v reset issue.

One spot on the playfield I wanted to get some input on is right above the flippers where the trapezoidish piece of mylar is. It looks like it's just the mylar getting boogered up and which was touched up. Thoughts on removing it? Would hate to find serious wear underneath though.

Looking forward to getting this game up and running again and joining the club.

20190911_235402.jpg
#2824 3 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Ok guys, I picked up a Doctor Who and had a chance to take a quick look last night. The game is a reimport. Still has all incandescent bulbs.
When I checked it out with the seller the enter button on the coin door stopped working which prevented me from doing any testing. One of the batteries had leaked a bit. It looks like that is likely the cause of most of the issues. The seller was having it reset on double flips. Hopefully I can clean the MPU up and get her functional. It was flipping at the sellers but now I get pinballs missing on the display.
Playfield is pretty good overall. No bare wood that I can see so far. Novus 2 cleaned up a bunch of the gunk. Cabinet is pretty good too, faded on from and right but still looks good. Dmd has a the bottom two rows and the right two columns out. I plan to clean her up and put LEDs in it. I was thinking warm white or sunlight comets for the GI. What are you guys running?
I ordered one of the kahr daughter boards as well. Not sure I will need that but ordered it when I thought it was likely the 5v reset issue.
One spot on the playfield I wanted to get some input on is right above the flippers where the trapezoidish piece of mylar is. It looks like it's just the mylar getting boogered up and which was touched up. Thoughts on removing it? Would hate to find serious wear underneath though.
Looking forward to getting this game up and running again and joining the club.[quoted image]

Most Doctor Who games are pretty rough or suffer from corrosion or both.

Typical repairs needed:

Rebuild the power supply board.

Rebuild AC power box with new line filter varistor and thermistor. Add in the removed service outlet, add in 8 amp fuse.

The area below flippers looks like wear thru the clearcoat that has been touched up, sand it flat apply thin mylar over the area for now.

The whole playfield should be sanded, touched up and re-cleared at a later date.

Replace display with colorLED.

Send CPU board in for rebuild/repair.

Check GI connector on driver board and replace with trifurcon. Re-Cap driver board with cap kit.

Install regular 2SMD frosted sunlight LEDs throughout.
Use 5SMD towers for the 906 bulbs.

Install LEDOCD board.

Rebuild time expander.

Re-decal cabinet.

These few items should make the game last for years to come.

#2825 3 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Ok guys, I picked up a Doctor Who and had a chance to take a quick look last night. The game is a reimport. Still has all incandescent bulbs.
When I checked it out with the seller the enter button on the coin door stopped working which prevented me from doing any testing. One of the batteries had leaked a bit. It looks like that is likely the cause of most of the issues. The seller was having it reset on double flips. Hopefully I can clean the MPU up and get her functional. It was flipping at the sellers but now I get pinballs missing on the display.
Playfield is pretty good overall. No bare wood that I can see so far. Novus 2 cleaned up a bunch of the gunk. Cabinet is pretty good too, faded on from and right but still looks good. Dmd has a the bottom two rows and the right two columns out. I plan to clean her up and put LEDs in it. I was thinking warm white or sunlight comets for the GI. What are you guys running?
I ordered one of the kahr daughter boards as well. Not sure I will need that but ordered it when I thought it was likely the 5v reset issue.
One spot on the playfield I wanted to get some input on is right above the flippers where the trapezoidish piece of mylar is. It looks like it's just the mylar getting boogered up and which was touched up. Thoughts on removing it? Would hate to find serious wear underneath though.
Looking forward to getting this game up and running again and joining the club.[quoted image]

That is a bad touchouch job if I ever saw one.
Almost looks like a bad sticker decal in some spots.

#2826 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Most Doctor Who games are pretty rough or suffer from corrosion or both.
Typical repairs needed:
Rebuild the power supply board.
Rebuild AC power box with new line filter varistor and thermistor. Add in the removed service outlet, add in 8 amp fuse.
The area below flippers looks like wear thru the clearcoat that has been touched up, sand it flat apply thin mylar over the area for now.
The whole playfield should be sanded, touched up and re-cleared at a later date.
Replace display with colorLED.
Send CPU board in for rebuild/repair.
Check GI connector on driver board and replace with trifurcon. Re-Cap driver board with cap kit.
Install regular 2SMD frosted sunlight LEDs throughout.
Use 5SMD towers for the 906 bulbs.
Install LEDOCD board.
Rebuild time expander.
Re-decal cabinet.
These few items should make the game last for years to come.

Do not install high end options unless u really want this game. Get it running first, then assess the longevity.

#2827 3 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

That is a bad touchouch job if I ever saw one.

Yep.

Its not too bad though. Molotow marker is a pretty good color match under clearcoat, without getting too fancy.
If super careful it wouldnt be noticable.

I did all my keylines freehand with one, looks and works great. Does not bleed into clear.
Mistakes wipe off with rapid prep cleaner.

#2828 3 days ago

Thanks all. I will try to get another pic from a different angle. The spot that shows the touch up has some wrinkling/lifting. That is why I was wondering if it was a touch up on the mylar itself. Does that piece of mylar look like its common to any other folk's copy of the game? It looks like a good placement there to pretect the area, but I have no idea if that was a common or standard application. I would hate to pull up the mylar and find a big mess underneath.

#2829 3 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Thanks all. I will try to get another pic from a different angle. The spot that shows the touch up has some wrinkling/lifting. That is why I was wondering if it was a touch up on the mylar itself. Does that piece of mylar look like its common to any other folk's copy of the game? It looks like a good placement there to pretect the area, but I have no idea if that was a common or standard application. I would hate to pull up the mylar and find a big mess underneath.

Doctor Who has a diamond plate playfield.

Although it exists, its not common to see one with full factory mylar.
The location you show is not where mylar would be unless its full factory mylar. Or repairs had been made.

You cant paint over mylar, it just wont stick.

It looks like a bump from a screw poke from underneath or a chip from a dropped tool or something that was addressed quick and dirty.

Or its mylared and its been scraped or gouged and is wrinkling and loose there.

#2830 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Doctor Who has a diamond plate playfield.
Although it exists, its not common to see one with full factory mylar.
The location you show is not where mylar would be unless its full factory mylar. Or repairs had been made.
You cant paint over mylar, it just wont stick.
It looks like a bump from a screw poke from underneath or a chip from a dropped tool or something that was addressed quick and dirty.
Or its mylared and its been scraped or gouged and is wrinkling and loose there.

I took a closer look. There is a tiny bit of bubbling and it looks like the touchup is underneath that spot. I was wondering because the mylar is cut and placed in a pretty precise way. It lines up very well with the yellow lines in the art. Also it is wearing in a spot and the original artwork looks great underneath there.

#2831 3 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

I took a closer look. There is a tiny bit of bubbling and it looks like the touchup is underneath that spot. I was wondering because the mylar is cut and placed in a pretty precise way. It lines up very well with the yellow lines in the art. Also it is wearing in a spot and the original artwork looks great underneath there.

It was repaired and Mylared.

Play on it, dont sweat it.

Itll be fixed when you re-clear the playfield.

In my opinion, th he playfield should be touched up and recleared at this point.

That's what I did.

#2832 2 days ago

Got the colorLED running.

2smd sunlight frosted are about as perfect as can be!

5smd cool white towers are working perfectly.
They have just the right sharpness and brightness so far. They are polarized so you have to get them the right direction lol.

I got all of them good but one I had to turn around!

20190913_183455 (resized).jpg

Tomorrow I'll try and get the pinsound up.

#2833 2 days ago

What is the definitive mix for pinsound doctor who?

I'm swaying towards the modern with the london symohony tracks.

Anyone have one that's the absolute best?

I hooked up the stereo cable that came with the FF speakers.

Left, right and center (sub) channels.

Is there a faux stereo presence adjustment?

#2834 2 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What is the definitive mix for pinsound doctor who?
I'm swaying towards the modern with the london symohony tracks.
Anyone have one that's the absolute best?
I hooked up the stereo cable that came with the FF speakers.
Left, right and center (sub) channels.
Is there a faux stereo presence adjustment?

Dang ok I’ll post my modern doctor mix on dropbox

#2835 2 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Dang ok I’ll post my modern doctor mix on dropbox

Yay!

It sounds awesome!

#2836 1 day ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What is the definitive mix for pinsound doctor who?
I'm swaying towards the modern with the london symohony tracks.
Anyone have one that's the absolute best?
I hooked up the stereo cable that came with the FF speakers.
Left, right and center (sub) channels.
Is there a faux stereo presence adjustment?

I would say my Rush orchestration But I am a bit biased. If you want a certain theme, let me know. Always looking to do something new.

#2837 1 day ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Dang ok I’ll post my modern doctor mix on dropbox

Today

#2839 1 day ago

Pinsound installed

20190914_103106 (resized).jpg
#2840 1 day ago

Installed Frank's battery board.

https://noquartersarcade.com/battery-board/why-use-a-battery-board/

I was going to do nvram but I wanted to preserve the real time clock as originally developed.

pinballgoddess uses the game as a room clock, so it will display time and date.

We get 5 power interruptions on an average day.

She doesnt want to adjust the clock daily.

It's a very affordable solution and easy to install.

20190914_103118 (resized).jpg
#2841 1 day ago

I installed this USB stick on my pinsound:
20190914_103134 (resized).jpg

It worked for the firmware update and the downloaded original doctor who sounds.

Some of the music and sounds have gaps and stutter.

I haven't made any adjustments to treble bass etc. So it sounds weak lol.

I need to investigate further, but for now it works!

#2842 1 day ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I installed this USB stick on my pinsound:[quoted image]

very smart move. DW doesn't go crazy with callouts (like say, IJTPA), so you don't notice too much a slower drive - but this is still a very good idea.

#2843 1 day ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

very smart move. DW doesn't go crazy with callouts (like say, IJTPA), so you don't notice too much a slower drive - but this is still a very good idea.

It was the recommended stick that pinsound sells and has tested for pinsound plus.

I also have a 300mb/sec USB 3.1 ultra fit.

I'll test that one later and see if it also works.

On pinsound it seems faster is better, if it works.

#2844 1 day ago

Spent a little time on pinsound this afternoon.

Wow, I love the 6 little dials on the board!

The scratchy terrible original soundtrack sounds like crap.

Adjusting everything makes a huge improvement!

But scratchy crap is still crap.

I love the deep bass from the woofer. Really makes a huge difference.

But sadly, I have to agree with others that without better source files, there's no fixing it in the mix.

Now, onto a better mix!

What is the best?

I'm going to try the modern one monday.

I dont have an original sound board to compare it to.

So essentially I'm hearing the game for the first time.

And honestly the original track doesnt sound that good lol.

I was hoping for a more immersive experience from the pinsound, but fortunately there are more tracks to sample!

#2845 1 day ago

Installing the GI harness now and replacing some sockets.

Now that I have a working platform, I can use the game to test my lighting and switches.

My Reese Rails will be here soon!

I've waited months, they will be amazing.

The game is finally taking shape.

#2846 1 day ago

Didn’t get a chance to post the mix today - house cleaning day! Will do so tomorrow!

#2847 1 day ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Didn’t get a chance to post the mix today - house cleaning day! Will do so tomorrow!

Great!
I look forward to hearing it.

#2848 20 hours ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Now, onto a better mix!
What is the best?

If your not a Rush fan, the Disco mix is pretty cool. I like to get away from the original sounds if I am trying a different mix. I would also highly recommend the Pinsound headphone station. It cost $50 US but you can easily change between orchestrations and it has an external volume control and headphone jack. So you can put all the orchestrations on one disk, and just decide on the fly which ones you want to listen to. Plus there is a headphone jack if you want to play the game and mute out the sound. Funny I have never used the headphone jack. I actually just ordered two more as I was really impressed with this product. Just plugs into the Pinsound card. Very install. I am up to four Pinsound cards now (Dr Who/Getaway/Tommy/GnR).

#2849 17 hours ago

pinballinreno Any pics of your playfield with the sunlight bulbs? I have sunlight and warm white coming soon.

#2850 17 hours ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

pinballinreno Any pics of your playfield with the sunlight bulbs? I have sunlight and warm white coming soon.

Warm white is a bit yellow. I bought a few for test and didnt like them.

I test them on my work station powered outlet at 6v. I compared the LEDs to new bulbs for color differences.

My thinking was the original lighting team balanced the artwork around d the #44 bulbs.

2smd frosted Sunlight looks very much like brand new #44 bulbs. Really perfect.
I put then in my backbox. That picture is posted above.

I'm attempting to go 100% LEDs in the game. So, 5smd cool white towers for the #906 bulbs also, as well as flex heads and dual flex heads for larger inserts.

I'll take a pic when I plug it in for testing in a couple days.

In also curious!

I might add a couple colored ones due to a couple faded inserts. But then again I might not.

As we have seen, "Color Flooding" the game with too many colors creates a brown hue to everything and mutes all of the playfield color.

Basically if to take a bunch of colors and mix them in a can, you always get brown. Regardless of the colors used.

Casting brown light looks tertible.

Buying a "kit" with all color matched bulbs sounds good on paper, but ends up looking brown with bits of color.

Going all 2smd frosted brightens the game and preserves the colors around them. It's a great choice.

We'll see about adding a couple colored ones lol.

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