I’ve never found them online, maybe someone has them here. If you don’t find them you can have them printed at Shapeways

I’ve found a couple of sources where I can purchase them. I’d like to try to make my own. I could try to machine them from delrin, but I have access to a makerspace and I’d like to try my hand at 3D printing them.

Got new dalek dome from PPS today, looks like a fine product.

Much better than the cracked, broken, box taped-up one i have...

I'll try to install it friday.

I have the mushroom targets up at Shapeways
https://www.shapeways.com/product/Q6BMQBFSZ/doctor-who-pinball-mushroom-target-button-1-off?optionId=65150365&li=marketplace

also have the Whomobile mod as well
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinkswhomod

I've got a game I'm cleaning up and I discovered it was missing the door release bracket. Here's the part.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15355

I have an idea where it mounts but not quite sure how. Can someone take a pic or point me towards shop out pics that might show the mounting?

Thanks!!

Page 4 of Faz’s guide
http://www.pinballsupernova.com/images/TheDoctorWhoMiniPlayfieldv1.2.pdf

My game has been at my parents’ house for a year now, finally going to get to play it tonight!

Thanks! It's as I thought.

Are you also missing the bushing and e-clip?
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I am. I didn’t see it for sale anywhere. I thought about making my own out of something.

Let me measure mine.

Looks like 3/4" (19mm) diameter
1/2" long
3/8" shaft

Any e-clip for a 3/8" shaft will probably work.
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Might be easy enough to find something and modify it.
I saw some bronze and steel bushings at lowes and ace hardware.
There's a lot of slop on the mini playfield actuator.
Something close should work good enough.

There's nothing special about that roller; steel is another Pfutz/Zofia Bil over engineering wonder (they are AWESOME!).

It just needs to trip the Dalek reset. Go to the hardware store with the bracket in hand. Look at the nylon roller bushings for screen doors etc...and e-clip. The roller needs to be about 3/4" across and needs to kiss the reset bracket.. 3/4" thick should fit.

Best of luck,
faz

Thanks for all the pics. I've got enough odd ball stuff around here to make something work.

Now, it's getting the time expander to go up and down correctly. Lots of worn parts on this game.

Finally joined the club this week. Playfield is in Great condition. Started swapping in some LED's already to brighten it up. I will be doing a full topside tear down real soon, anything 8 should look to replace while I have it apart?

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I have an extra bushing I made at work out of Delrin material. If you want it PM me and I will ship it to ya no charge.

Time expander took more time than anything else on my game so far.

For some reason all Doctor Who games are really beat down.

On mine there is no part, connector or screw or bolt that hasnt been abused.

Including screws punched through the middle of the playfield lol.

All of the boards have hacks etc..

But, getting things in order rapidly.

Door is done.

I have new ones but I thought this one could be saved.

It was pretty bad.

Dented in and pried open a bit.

Missing the coin slots and reject buttons etc..

I can pound on it a bit more, but I think its ok for now.

Paint was via Mr Bryan Kelly technique, works perfectly.

Thanks for sharing the knowledge Bryan.

Looks pretty close to factory as far as finish.
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Lock is a little long but I have a box of them to use up. I just put a little bend in the hasp.

It would have been nice to see that door painted tardis blue instead of black. All the new decals and that Black door just looks so darn arghhhhh....Not my game, just my 2 cents. Great job on the resto.

Yes! But after much negotiation and soul searching lol, and turning a complete about face direction,

Pinballgoddess suddenly went with pearl black armor.

The black door should fit in well with that.

It's a womans prerogative... lol.

I want to share a simple opto fix that I came up with for the mushroom targets on the mini playfield.

I have read a number of posts from people who have had problems with misalignment of these targets due to the black plastic piece that aligns the optos and attaches them to the bottom of the mini playfield sagging and warping with age. I've seen people post some fairly elaborate repairs, and I came up with something much simpler that looks like it's going to work out perfectly.

I cut several small blocks from a sheet of HDPE (note- you don't need to order this from some specialist online-- cheap cutting board material from a discount store works beautifully), and wedged them into the plastic opto holder. I then used a piece of cardboard across the back of the piece to replace the bit of construction paper that was coming apart on mine. A bit of electrical tape to seal it all up, and I was back in business. Dimensions and pictures follow below...

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You could just buy this also.

ebay.com link: Bally Dr Who Pinball Machine Time Expander Opto Fix

I recently used it on a game and it worked perfectly.

Good, cheap solution.

I believe there is also an .STL on thingiverse that you can 3D print, which fits inside that plastic in a similar way

edit: yep, here it is: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2387162

I bought it and works great.

Got the armor back from the powdercoat company today I'm super pleased with the result,:
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This is the prismatic pearl black.
Its exactly cosmos-like and black and the perfect blend of metal flake without being cheap looking imho..lol.

A few pics of it assembled.
I dont think it's too black, the pearl metal is way nicer in person.

It seems appropriate with the artwork as it is.

Im sure there are a lot if great ideas out there but over-all I'm very pleased with it.
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<blockquote cite="#5159857"
Im sure there are a lot if great ideas out there but over-all I'm very pleased with it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

As well you should be! Nice work.

That looks freakin great. Good call.

I like the new translite too.

Thanks!

That translite in my opinion, really modernised the game.

I wasn't a big fan of all the yellow/amber doctor dudes...lol

Ideally due to the story line, some kind of time streams translite would be very cool.

If there is one, I'd be interested.

Nice catch! Bought it.

Rules question...on a couple occasions I've gotten a score over 1 billion - I just got to 1.7 billion a few days ago. I noted on the higher scoring games, my playfield multiplier seems to stay at a higher number, like 3.5 or 4x for a much longer time period, even though I'm not hitting the side ramp all that much, and in my recent game I'm guessing I just hit the side ramp maybe 20 times or less.

Does anyone know what causes this extended time for the playfield multiplier? Thanks in advance!

Just got one..one left.. I have to pull out the expander anyway to clean, might as well install this as well

I think Doctor 6 causes that. If you didn’t actively choose him maybe you didn’t notice because he was spotted.

Thanks - I thought that may be the case, but it seems like the effect of Doctor 6 was even longer than usual. As I go through waves of completing all the Doctors, is their effect enhanced in some way?

I don’t think so. Maybe you were just in the zone?

I'm not normally a fan of powder coating but that looks awesome.

Thanks!

We went over the prismatic catalogue pretty thoroughly.

We looked at blues, reds, yellows etc.

Nothing seemed to work as well as the blacks with a bit of metal flake.

Working in the pretzel of warps on my playfield.

The right edge that has the short wooden siderail is a problem.

There is just no support for the pop bumpers and the weight of the time expander.

This causes a droop in the right upper corner.

Easily fixed with a new playfield that is non-existant ☹.

So. I'm inclined to add a support on the right edge.

I'm thinking a 1/2" stainless corner brace like for tile edging.

The upper right posts will shore it up with very little reworking.

I'll post what I come up with.

Shim the playfield pivot bracket. That droop will go away. I did this to mine and the droop went away.

Yep, I think I'll do that, and some extra support.

Checked the playfield fit and looked at the gameblades. Glass is off.

In the first picture there is still a 1/8" droop on the upper right corner.

This is with a 3/16" shim under the right pivot bracket.

Pressing on the playfield to simulate some weight removes about 1/16" of droop.

Stiffening up the upper right corner might give me another 1/16" or better of height.

We'll have to see.
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No steel support. It can be added later if need be.

Reese rails next month when they get back to work.

Reverse bending, a little heat with a hair dryer only, NOT HOT!

Just about 130 degrees F over a large area of the center, Kinda diagonally where it looked tight?

For about 90 mins.

Followed with dry Terry cloth towels out of the 6 degree freezer.

Shim still in via eyeamred2u recommendation, thanks! Your experience paid off.

Twist is drastically reduced.
I hope it stays.

Right now it looks a close as they come from the factory.

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Looks great I'm taking notes on your restore as I plan on doing a similar restore to ours a little down the road but I'm liking the choices you have made with the powder coat, the new translite and side blades. Keep up the great work and updates.

Thanks!

I dont want to bore people with minutia, just highlite problems I encountered and my solutions to problems such as they are...lol.

I really appreciate the help the pinsiders have given me, it really helped.

Glad you like it so far, more to come!

I’ve been meaning to ask - did you have to get new ramps? Mine has the usual busted spot on the upper ramp, and I can Cliffy it but I’d rather just go for the full replacement

All of my ramps are cracked and broken beyond repair. Oddly my subway is in great condition, I'll just replace the switches on it and the opto's on the others.

I bought the full set of 3 ramps and the full set of cliffys.

Also bought all new switches. Pop bumper kits, coil sleeve kits, flipper kits and the impossible to get up kicker plunger.

Putting in all sunlight 2smd leds. They look a lot like the original #44 bulbs when lit.

My game has incorrect coils, hacked boards etc. You name it and its f#@ked up lol.

Installing mylars on the pop and drop areas and rebuilding the switch harness Monday.

I'm waiting for my boards to get back from Chris hibler for rebuilding and repairs.

I'm going to attempt to replace all the 906 flashers with 5smd tower LEDs. They seem bright enough from my bench tests.

We will see how this goes and looks, lol, its experimental.

Trying to eliminate the heat/power issues.

I have the LEDOCD system as well as the GI system.

I installed a P5US in mine to replace the stock voltage regulator- made a world of difference- cleaner power and no heat whatsoever. You may ask if Hibler will install it for you. Solved my reset issues for good

Where did you buy ramps?

I know the shim is not the best approach, it it has held up quite well on my game.

I got the 3 ramp set from marco.