Hi

No Acid super clean boards

I can check to see if I have a loose connector

What happens is

I lock a ball , next ball loads as it should

But then a 3rd ball is served from the trough

Now if I play and lock the 2nd ball the MPF rises as it should the right right just keeps adding lights as it’s closed

I’ll dig around more

Maybe this Opto in the MPF is the culprit ?

Huh. It certainly feels like it could be connected.

Have you gone through the single switch tests to see if anything else isn’t working right?

I say yes, The chrome balances the game, but if you have old pieces, give it a try. I did the coin door, bilt head and head plates to cabinet in blue

Evaporust did a great job on my rusty legs...

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Okay I’ll check the board again but it was super clean

See picture
I installed a remote holder as well to keep board safe

I do thank all for your help

Will also next check out the MPF to figure out that opto - maybe they are linked some way even though different COL / ROW on the Sw Matrix

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I'm thinking basic satin black siderails and lockdown bar.

It matches the head trim and makes the colors pop a bit.

So, black trim?

Satin or gloss?

I think the stainless looks cheap.
Chrome is good but maybe black is better?

Lol, I always thought black looked cheap and stainless looked nicer.

If you do black, it has to be gloss, otherwise it just looks like paint. Actual chrome wouldn’t look half bad - but I don’t know if it’s the perfect thing for this game. I’ve reached out to a couple of powder coaters about doing sort of a “racing stripe” thing on the lock bars and legs. Mainly oxford blue (a touch darker actually) and a deep red stripe. It would definitely make the game pop!

Yes, a dark matching blue with black and light silver metal flake?

I saw a sample of cosmic metal flake. Looked really good like galaxy washed denim.

The hardest part is getting the right blue color.

I grabbed an eBay set and they didn't look that great either... but they looked alot better than broken.

Little shop of games had some NOS. I bought a pair, they look ok to me.

They also had nos standup target stickers.

Now, where to get the standups A-15330-4 and the little single one on the right?

The time expander red standup is not available do I got a couple regular ones and modified the bottom a bit. Seems to work for now.

Marco sells the single standup sticker on the right. I bought some NOS left standup stickers off Ebay, they are really nice.

Thanks!

I got the stickers but was thinking of replacing all of the standup target switches themselves, mine are pretty beat.

Oh oh, nah, just put new stickers on them. it is a PIA to replace them

That sounds awesome. There’s also the candy color thing which is a layer of color then a second layer which somehow reacts to the first and ends up making it look translucent

Is Pinsound worth it for Dr Who? Don’t seem to be that many orchestrations. Thoughts?

Oh. My god. Yes. Totally different game

I have some original mushroom targets that I'll be selling for $10 each, or all of them for $35 plus shipping from 46814 if someone wants the originals to try to match to what they have. I have 4 good targets and 2 busted ones.

IMG_4356 (resized).JPG

I'd like to buy them if they are still available.

Or if you'd like optional colors, check Swinks stuff out. Prices range from 7 to 12 each.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/Q6BMQBFSZ/doctor-who-pinball-mushroom-target-button-1-off?optionId=65150373&li=marketplace

Thanks for the feedback. I was on the fence but it’s not that big an investment really. Do you know if the original soundtrack was converted to Stereo? Thanks for the help.

The original game soundtrack? (Vs the show). I do not believe so - there's really not such a thing as "converting to stereo". But if you get the modern theme mix you'll have full high fidelity sound in true stereo. The disco mix too

Okay

I did literally nothing

Now it’s working kinda properly

The opto issue went away for like 1-3 games and no Credit Dot

Then back again

So I’ll pull that MPF see what’s what

Any pointers to getting to the opto bank ?

Thank you so far for the help

I actually enjoyed playing it without that damn hiccup

You can access the optos from the MPF
by unscrewing the 4 screws on the underside of the MPF. Then pull up the whole black plastic assy with the optos

You've seen my white paper yes? I covered that.

Get it here at the bottom of my "website" https://sites.google.com/site/pinballfaz/

faz

This should be required reading for DW owners. It is outstanding

After 27 years of battling daleks, sling switches get replaced:
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They were riveted on, and I could re-rivet them, but all the new games use screws now.

Plus they charge a lot more for a switch riveted onto a bracket that has the side tab on the wrong side.

Easy enough to flip it over on just the switch.

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Rit dye tests on shapeways 3d printed parts:

Rit liquid dye in black.
I put white pop bumper bodies in the dye to see if the 3d parts absorb the same.

They dont.
Soaked for 1 hour at 180 degrees

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I actually like the color.
I can paint them with satin krylon if I change my mind.

The dyed plastic wont show chips or scratches.

I soaked some mushroom buttons in frost gray dye more for synthetics.

It was way more effective than the regular rit dye.

They came out darker than I anticipated after only 10 mins, 3 might have done it.

But I can soak them on chlorine bleach to lighten them.

I kinda like them this color for now.
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I'm absolutely sure that with a little effort one could get the exact shade of gray they wanted with the dye.

nice work and thanks for sharing

Not bad! I am considering making them silver on my game, so they look more like the Dalek bumps

I was going for a rusted steel look, but I imagine any color could be dyed.

The dyemore takes only about 5 mins.

Back to the crooked playfield.

Cab bolts are perfect.

Pivot nuts replaced, they were worn.
Playfield mounts are replaced.

Playfield is twisted 1/2" or more.
Upper right corner is low 1/4"

The problem is that the time expander hangs behind the playfield mounts and The 3 pop bumpers hang in the upper right corner.

This has caused a bend.

The playfield is somewhat unsupported in the rear third.

I think reese rails will stiffen it up a lot.

I added a 1/8" shim under the right mounting bracket.

This lowered the left corner and raised the right corner.

The 1/4" drop of the upper right corner is solved for now.
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You can see that the hole for the pivot nut and screw is worn on the inside, causing the tilt. Mine was similar and I see you used my shim idea, nice job

I was hoping that were true!

I could fix it with a dowel and re-drill it.

My inside hole is tight around the screw on both sides as it should be.

The pivot nut and screw are square to the cabinet side.

Only after measuring locations and using squares did I finally do as you suggested, add a shim.

I can possibly add a piece of 1/4" steel angle stock to firm up the twist in the playfield on the right side.

But I'm interested in whether the reese rails will do the same.

The original cardboard rails do very little on this game and have attributed to the sag in the rear.

Most notably the pop bumper area that is largely unsupported.

My cabinet is bowed about 1/8" horizontally and vertically, as well as the bottom (a tiny but cupped).

It might have been in a humid area.

I'll correct this during the cabinet restore.

Ill just sand off the material with the 6" ro sander until its flat enough.

I removed all the mylar using the freeze method today.

It took 1/4 can, sprayed a little at a time to reach optimal temperature. It worked perfectly on the diamond plated surface.

Zero paint or clearcoat loss.

Took about 20 mins.

I'm going to try rapid tac remover on this playfield to see how it works.

They promise it will remove adhesive in as little as 1 or 2 mins.

We'll see.

Good call!
I see it now.

Its the cabinet side that is warped/bowed.
Also there is a ground braid pushing the nut crooked. Itt see about relocating the braid.
I'll sand it flat in any case.

Need a memeber to look at their game andnsee where connector J132 from the power driver board goes too. I am missing the entire connector. The schematic shows it goes to the back box for some insert flashers.

Thanks,

Ken

Too bad I just pulled all my harnesses, or id check it.
I remember labeling the connector...?

Does it go to the little harness on the playfield backstop right corner, there are 2 flashers there behind the big square plastic transmat sign.

Im not sure, I never thought to look there.

Nothing on J132 on mine.

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Thank You. I wonder why this plug is empty, yet it shows on the schematic. I was pulling my hair out.

Why is my playfield dragging on the cabinet sides?

This seems to be the source of the cabinet gouging.

The mounts are offset by 1/8"
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The left mount is wrong.

The playfield does not hook into the lockdown reciever correctly.

I have to pull it forward on the left to get the front hangers into the slots.

So, I have to move the left bracket rearward 1/8".

Ended up moving the left bracket about 5/32".

This did 2 things.

1) The playfield now pivots smoothly and cleanly, it no longer scrapes the sides.

2) the playfield no longer has to be forced onto the front hanger slots by pushing it sideways in the front.

Doing this causes the pivot to ride the left mount more rearward, raising it higher relative to the right bracket. The bracket has a slope built into it.
Pulling the playfield forward raises its height.

This caused the playfield to be higher on the left about 1/8".

The shim I added on the right is now removed.
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