Quoted from eyeamred2u:Panhead screws
In the photo it looks like #6 or #8 pan head sheet metal screws hold on the whomobile on.
Thanks!
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Panhead screws
In the photo it looks like #6 or #8 pan head sheet metal screws hold on the whomobile on.
Thanks!
Quoted from pinballinreno:In the photo it looks like #6 or #8 pan head sheet metal screws hold on the whomobile on.
Thanks!
Marcospec has them under the Dr. Who parts section
Im in da club! Easily the nicest machine I have. Color DMD will be high on the list to go along with my getaway. Alternate trans lite is also high on my list. I have some characters I ordered and am 3d printing some files to help spice things up. I really want a who mobile.....but they are a little on the pricey side for a small addition. Gonna sleep on that.
Now I just gotta get a high score on the board. Had a 250 mil game the other day...I was sad when it was not even replay or high score worthy. Guess I gotta practice.
IMG_2713 (resized).JPGQuoted from Scrmblr2:Now I just gotta get a high score on the board. Had a 250 mil game the other day...I was sad when it was not even replay or high score worthy. Guess I gotta practice.
Once you get good at the side ramp and getting your multiplier to 4x you’ll blow 250 mil away.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have an issue with the playfield scraping/gouging the sidewall.
Is this gate installed correctly?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
a LOT of them have that same gouge. Only thing you can really do is re-mount or shave down that gate. Maybe some felt?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:a LOT of them have that same gouge. Only thing you can really do is re-mount or shave down that gate. Maybe some felt?
I think I can bend it in and move it in 1/8" more, but it's a deadly danger. Just like on my houdini.
Just have to use blade protectors after the cab is redone.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have an issue with the playfield scraping/gouging the sidewall.
Is this gate installed correctly?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Move the gate, it has some wiggle room.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I think I can bend it in and move it in 1/8" more, but it's a deadly danger. Just like on my houdini.
Just have to use blade protectors after the cab is redone.
Try bending it slightly in. I think it’s the wire that causes the damage.
My DW is in Ohio right now. Man, wth, do we have the same exact collection? Lol
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Try bending it slightly in. I think it’s the wire that causes the damage.
My DW is in Ohio right now. Man, wth, do we have the same exact collection? Lol
Don't bend it. Lift the playfield up and loosen the screws and move it inward. problem solved.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Don't bend it. Lift the playfield up and loosen the screws and move it inward. problem solved.
Yeah. I'll elongate the holes.
It's in the tumbler now for 2 days...
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Try bending it slightly in. I think it’s the wire that causes the damage.
My DW is in Ohio right now. Man, wth, do we have the same exact collection? Lol
It's definitely the wire hanging out the side.
Stripped the topside of the playfield tonight.
I wish I could get plastics...
Most of them are ok, but new repros would be awesome.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:a LOT of them have that same gouge. Only thing you can really do is re-mount or shave down that gate. Maybe some felt?
Maybe leave the gouge in place and decorate around it!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Finally finished the time expander.
Quite a job with the repro mini playfield and new internal bracket assembly as well as rusted rollers
Only 19 holes were left undrilled from CPR.
Probably for the best as really you want to hand fit the parts on reassembly.
[quoted image]
All parts polished and corrosion controlled
Not sure if Cliffy has made hole protectors specifically for the Dr. Who Time Expander but I was able to use the Cliffy kick out hole protector for Williams "High Speed" with hardly any modifications.
Quoted from rgb635:Not sure if Cliffy has made hole protectors specifically for the Dr. Who Time Expander but I was able to use the Cliffy kick out hole protector for Williams "High Speed" with hardly any modifications.
Those are the ones he sells in the pack. Nice that they work!
Quoted from rgb635:Not sure if Cliffy has made hole protectors specifically for the Dr. Who Time Expander but I was able to use the Cliffy kick out hole protector for Williams "High Speed" with hardly any modifications.
Kevlar rings come in the kit for the time expander.
I'm leaving them off for now.
Curiously there are no shooter lane protectors in my full kit.
Should I contact cliff? Or are they separate? I paid $104 for the kit.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Kevlar rings come in the kit for the time expander.
I'm leaving them off for now.
Curiously there are no shooter lane protectors in my full kit.
Should I contact cliff? Or are they separate? I paid $104 for the kit.
I’d contact him. Sure looks like it’s included on the DW page on his site.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Kevlar rings come in the kit for the time expander.
I'm leaving them off for now.
Curiously there are no shooter lane protectors in my full kit.
Should I contact cliff? Or are they separate? I paid $104 for the kit.
They are carbon fiber, not kevlar. Carbon fiber holds up better. I spoke directly to Cliffy on why he is changing to carbon fiber.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:They are carbon fiber, not kevlar. Carbon fiber holds up better. I spoke directly to Cliffy on why he is changing to carbon fiber.
And what did he say?
Quoted from eyeamred2u:They are carbon fiber, not kevlar. Carbon fiber holds up better. I spoke directly to Cliffy on why he is changing to carbon fiber.
Yeah, the thin metal gets bent up pretty badly in time.
The time expander rings are easy to get to. So I can add them later if wear starts showing.
Has anyone done a stereo orchestration for Pinsound with the original music? My understanding is the original files will still play in mono, even with upgraded speakers and the Pinsound card. Thanks.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:a LOT of them have that same gouge. Only thing you can really do is re-mount or shave down that gate. Maybe some felt?
I think I found the gouge problem source.
20190611_100539 (resized).jpg20190611_100544 (resized).jpg20190611_100641 (resized).jpg
The upper right is very low.
So it sits crooked and tilted to the right.
I ordered new pivot nuts and playfield mounts.
If it's still not level, I can add a shim or fender washers under the right mount.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I think I found the gouge problem source.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The upper right is very low.
So it sits crooked and tilted to the right.
I ordered new pivot nuts and playfield mounts.
If it's still not level, I can add a shim or fender washers under the right mount.
A common problem. Shims are recommended. I had to add them to my game. Almost a half inch. Prior user removed pivot bolts and ruined the hole.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:A common problem. Shims are recommended. I had to add them to my game. Almost a half inch. Prior user removed pivot bolts and ruined the hole.
My bolts look worn out but still tight in the cabinet at least lol.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I stated why he changed
Was it “because it holds up better”? I was confused by the wording
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Was it “because it holds up better”? I was confused by the wording
Yes, Cliffy said that the stainless was "breaking" down faster than anticipated, so Carbon Fiber was the better option. Sorry fot ot being clear on that.
Quoted from pinballinreno:My bolts look worn out but still tight in the cabinet at least lol.
My bolts were tight, but when the playfield was down, I was able to lift up and close up the gap, which was odd to me. So installed new pivot nuts and bolt and still the same gap. Therefore, Shims under the pivot nut bracket. If you do put washers or some hime made shims, it is best to have a helper. I fabricated my shims so they would slide over the machine screws.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Yes, Cliffy said that the stainless was "breaking" down faster than anticipated, so Carbon Fiber was the better option. Sorry fot ot being clear on that.
Thanks for clarifying!
Quoted from pinballinreno:I think I found the gouge problem source.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The upper right is very low.
So it sits crooked and tilted to the right.
I ordered new pivot nuts and playfield mounts.
If it's still not level, I can add a shim or fender washers under the right mount.
Niiiiice. I will have to check this on mine
Quoted from eyeamred2u:My bolts were tight, but when the playfield was down, I was able to lift up and close up the gap, which was odd to me. So installed new pivot nuts and bolt and still the same gap. Therefore, Shims under the pivot nut bracket. If you do put washers or some hime made shims, it is best to have a helper. I fabricated my shims so they would slide over the machine screws.
Thanks!
I really like the slotted shim idea a lot.
It looks like I need at least 1/4" or more.
I'm waiting for brackets and pivot nuts from marco right now.
I'll report back when I get it sorted out.
Doing a full tear down.
Full restoration in process.
Pulled all the backbox boards.
It's the gift that keeps on giving.
Gorillas with blowtorches shouldn't work on electronics:
20190615_100841 (resized).jpg20190615_100907 (resized).jpg20190615_101051 (resized).jpg
20190615_101014 (resized).jpg
Of the 5 boards 3 are perfect.
Driver and audio have some issues. Lol
I already sent them to Chris Hibler for testing and repair.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Doing a full tear down.
Full restoration in process.
Pulled all the backbox boards.
It's the gift that keeps on giving.
Gorillas with blowtorches shouldn't work on electronics:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
Of the 5 boards 3 are perfect.
Driver and audio have some issues. Lol
I already sent them to Chris Hibler for testing and repair.
Wow that is pretty rough looking. I have a working DW sound board if you don’t want to wait for Hibler
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Wow that is pretty rough looking. I have a working DW sound board if you don’t want to wait for Hibler
Thanks!
I might take you up on it but, its gonna be awhile before this tardis flies again. Lol
It looks like the guy I bought it from put all the bad parts from 8 different games in my game.
I think I can get it running in a few weeks.
Clearing the playfield next week and maybe start on the cabinet.
I really want to know what's going on with the crooked angled playfield.
It's still a mystery!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Pulled all the backbox boards.
It's the gift that keeps on giving.
Gorillas with blowtorches shouldn't work on electronics:
Of the 5 boards 3 are perfect.
Driver and audio have some issues. Lol
I already sent them to Chris Hibler for testing and repair.
Unfortunately I've had to repair/rebuild too many boards like that. Start by stripping off all the prior work, cleaning up the board, repair all the board damage and rebuild traces, and then repopulate and repair.
So many boards have had the through hole plating ripped out, pads pulled off, and traces ruined.
Quoted from GAP:Just redecaled a Dr Who this weekend.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks good, but the door needs to be blue. Here is my door painted blue.
20190523_124850 (resized).jpgQuoted from eyeamred2u:Looks good, but the door needs to be blue. Here is my door painted blue.[quoted image]
I really like that color!
What color blue is it?
Quoted from pinballinreno:I really like that color!
What color blue is it?
Oxford Blue
Hi
Maybe a fellow Doctor Who owner can relate or guide me
I have an intermittent issue on my DW
Issue:
I lock 1 ball in either R L eject hole
The game will load 1 ball and Auto Launch and then the 3rd ball into shooter lane
I have already replaced all the trough switches and shooter lane switch with new plus all new diodes
Still have the issue
I’ll also me mention that sw 71 the right most opto on MPF is stuck closed right now but per the Sw Matrix have nothing in common anywhere on the grid
Any ideas what to check ?
I was told check the obvious so I did and replaced what seemed to be the most logical but that didn’t fix the issue
Thanks in advance
I enjoy the game but want it properly working
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Hi
Maybe a fellow Doctor Who owner can relate or guide me
I have an intermittent issue on my DW
Issue:
I lock 1 ball in either R L eject hole
The game will load 1 ball and Auto Launch and then the 3rd ball into shooter lane
I have already replaced all the trough switches and shooter lane switch with new plus all new diodes
Still have the issue
I’ll also me mention that sw 71 the right most opto on MPF is stuck closed right now but per the Sw Matrix have nothing in common anywhere on the grid
Any ideas what to check ?
I was told check the obvious so I did and replaced what seemed to be the most logical but that didn’t fix the issue
Thanks in advance
I enjoy the game but want it properly working
Why is the opto 71 closed?
Debris?
Bad opto?
Broken shorted wire?
Bad controller board?
Trade sides with the other opto, does the problem move?
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Oxford Blue
I'm thinking of doing the siderails and lockdown bar in oxford (tardis) blue.
Too much?
Quoted from pinballinreno:I'm thinking of doing the siderails and lockdown bar in oxford (tardis) blue.
Too much?
It looks good, but it’s a LOT of blue. check the thread for previous examples. The exact shade of blue really matters a lot
Quoted from pinballinreno:I'm thinking of doing the siderails and lockdown bar in oxford (tardis) blue.
Too much?
I think that's a great idea. The coin door pic someone posted looked pretty good, and I don't usually go for fancy coin doors.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Why is the opto 71 closed?
Debris?
Bad opto?
Broken shorted wire?
Bad controller board?
Trade sides with the other opto, does the problem move?
I will check it out
Thank you
Do you feel these are related issues or just 2 separate issues
Quoted from pinballinreno:Why is the opto 71 closed?
Debris?
Bad opto?
Broken shorted wire?
Bad controller board?
Trade sides with the other opto, does the problem move?
Any battery damage on the MPU? Have you checked the connectors at the bottom edge of the MPU? Are there any wiring hacks on the machine?
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