I am in the process of installing some new Flipper Fidelity speakers on my Dr Who. When I got the speakers, I ordered the Pinsound version as I expected to get the card at some point. The speakers came with the below Pinsound adapter. As I am going to use the regular soundboard, can someone confirm what these two four prong connectors are used for. I'm not certain that these are used for the speakers only. Can I connect the 8 prong Pinsound adapter to the area circled in red below? Thanks for your assistance!

Dr Who Soundboard (resized).jpg

Pinsound connector (resized).jpg

3) The gears in the motor gearbox are pressed together. My Doctor Who acted in a similar fashion to what you are describing and I found when I disassembled the gearbox that the mating surface between the gears had worn over the years and caused the joint between the gears to slip under load.

In my case, the gears appeared to be brass so I brazed the joint and have had no issues since. YMMV

Those are just the mono audio terminals, nothing else.

Yes- only 2 of the 8 pins are actually used in WPC systems but the Pinsound adapter seems to use 6 of them to simulate stereo sound. Full disclosure- I have a Pinsound and have upgraded speakers but I have not done the 2.1 stereo mod yet.

I finally got around to installing the Time Expander Cliffy's, but my Mini Playfield Edge Protector won't go back far enough, and there's a gap. Has anyone else run into spacing issues like this? I considered trying to trim the depth with metal clippers, but I wanted to check in with the group before doing so. From what I can tell, it's making premature contact with the black plastic behind the 5 white sensors. Thanks for any guidance.

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Cliffy does a lot of work to make sure these just drop in.

Did you pull the whole MPF out or did you try to loosen the mushroom bracket then slide it underneath? I'm betting it's getting hung up under the bracket but you just can't see it. This is a full sized photo of the underside of the MPF with the bracket / Dalek chute removed.

faz

048 Adding Cliffy Protector.jpg

I did loosen those 4 screws and made an attempt to install it without removing the entire MPF. I did review your excellent guide but still felt intimidated by the process. I looked at the Cliffy guidance and it said to just loosen those 4 screws, so I was HOPING that would work.

You have 2 choices.

Sand the front edge of the MPF about 1/20"

Or

Move the entire time expander back a little to increase the gap.

The mounts might have to have the holes slightly elongated.

Removal is pretty easy.

Pardon my ignorance, but aren't those the solutions for situations where the assembly is rubbing up against each other when it goes up and down? I think if I sanded the front edge, the gap between the Edge Protector and the MPF would be even worse, I suspect. I hope I'm conveying the problem correctly.

Adjusting the mounting holes in the bracket will give you some flexibility on reinstallation to make it perfect.

Washers installed to adjust the height etc.

Loosening the screws is fine. I'm just pointing out that it can fit flush and it's just caught on something. Possibly a T-Nut or even a splinter.
Loosen the screws and try again. No need to pull the whole thing out.

faz

I'm replacing my time expander mini playfield.

Should I add the mylar to it like the factory?

I'm inclined to believe that since it's a very busy area that it may be necessary.

Has anyone else added it to theirs?

Does anyone gave a pre-cut piece?

I wanted to share a couple photos with you, to see if there's anything obvious I'm doing wrong with my installation. One photo is with the screws loosened, and the other with the Edge Protector installed and screws still loose. From what I can tell, there's nothing binding, and the Edge Protector is hitting up against the black plastic piece which is behind the 5 white buttons. I'd presume the washers should go outside of the Protector, as I currently have them. The Time Expander seems to have some prior work done on it - no idea what - but I wonder if that's causing an issue.

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Thanks so much for taking the time to upload that photo - now it's extremely obvious how I should've installed it in the first place! I was elated to finally get it installed correctly, but wouldn't you know it - there is binding and it won't go all the way down. I guess this is where the work gets more serious.

Is the easiest / cleanest option to basically move the upper wooden playfield back a bit? I see some references to doing that, but I'm not seeing step-by-step guidance on doing that, which screws to deal with, etc. Sorry - it's probably painfully obvious I'm new to all of this after my first issue.

Easiest way is to elongate the four mounting holes in the base plate like this...

14888938bdf1540ffa23957237da638e5095b288[1] (resized).jpg

I'm about to reassemble my MPF.

I'm cutting a new mylar for the new MPF blank from CPR, I'm cutting off 1/8" off the front as required.

I'm using 3mil mylar same as factory.

What LEDs work the best for this? Frosted, flat top, colors etc...

Also what about led flashers, are they just too bright?

I'm going to install a full led kit in my game.

One thing, if you dont have a sonic cleaner...get one.

OMG, I mean the parts come out like brand new with no polishing.

I'm saving the polishing for the upper playfield parts.

Depends what you are going for. I found the color LEDs didn’t matter much since they are mostly behind all that plastic. Frosted is better IMO

Get one of the 5SMD Comet tower flashers, they actually give off a bit less light and fill the whole red dome with light, instead of a very intense hotspot. The regular LED flashers are a bit bright

Make sure you compare the MPF holes to the old one - a lot of the reproduction ones out there are not exact

My original MPF also had this issue at first - but I was able to loosen things up eventually in order to get a good fit. The cliffy is so thin you don't need much space, so even a half mm is important.

I watched the video of the french guy dealing with the CPR MPF.

I think I have the same one. I can make it work. Mine is so worn that the front corners have very little wood left.

My MPF is missing a variety of parts on the top but I think I have it all resolved.

My expander cover was taped in place due to missing/stripped out posts etc.

But the whole assembly didnt work anyway so I guess it didn't matrer!

William's was no help in the manual with their huge list of parts not shown lol.

Basically my game is very rough but the playfied is pretty good and the back box boards are untouched.

did you get one of the upgraded expander covers? Totally worth the purchase. I'd love to get that decal redesigned too. the thing is so ugly! haha

I'm working on the shield and whomobile decals.

My shield is pretty bent up but I think I can straighten it.

I bought the new time expander cover and decals for it.

My goal right now is to get the game functioning and then rip it apart for a complete restoration.

The MPF is more than half the work as always...

I just wanted to add that I got one for my Birthday on the weekend.

I first played the table when I was a kid, and now that I'm a bit older, but no more wiser, I now have one.

The table is in really nice condition, the playfield is in superb condition, and the cabnet decals have been replaced. I've ordered a set of cliffy protectors, just waiting for them to be made and shipped. (Keep up the great work!)

Now, just waiting for the exchange rate in Australia to get decent again to get the colour DMD. Shipped to me is almost $700 AUD, and well, I can't afford that right now.

How is this wire routed properly?
Looks terrible on my game lol
Is this the right switch location?
Or even the right switch?
My game is a little rough, many missing or re-imagined parts.

Post a pic of how it's supposed to be done please.
20190521_104807 (resized).jpg

My game isn’t accessible right now but... it’s supposed to go up the plastic wire tube and into the backbox, but it’s really tight when you fold down the head. There is a plug but it’s a pain to get to. My switch is already disabled, I might just relocate it .

I'll probably make a nice cable out of shrink and hook it somewhere.

I do like the disabling of the switch idea a lot, lol.

I might just tie the wires together and stuff it behind the backboard for now!

I see that it can be a problem when raising and lowering the playfield if there isn't enough slack.

Thanks!

Could somebody post a picture of a original set of slingshot kicker plastics while illuminated? Want to compare to a set I bought from marco, which look pale and washed out.
Thanks

I have a repop I just installed and it’s definitely lighter. Beats broken tho.

I will try a blue led underneath. Maybe that will make it pop.

2 of 4 sections done on my time expander

New motor and gearbox.

My gearbox was totally stripped out and had been repaired many times from the look of it.

New bracket from marco.
It was a bit rough and bent.

Bending, filing, sanding and 3 hours of rework made it work.
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I bought new rollers from marco. They were very rusty, but the proper thickness. I'm not sure they were worth the money lol.

2 hours of sonic cleaning and scrubbing fixed them.
These are new out of the bag.
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The old ones looked better but are worn out.

I cant recommend replacing these parts unless you have a workshop with a big sonic cleaner, vice, sander, grinder etc...

But my bracket had 1/16" grooves cut on both sides and the rollers were very thin from abuse, so unfortunately they had to be replaced.

There was so much slop it couldn't help but go sideways and bind up.

Runs smooth and perfect now.

My workstation has a 0-15v DC outlet on it. Very handy for testing motors and leds on the fly. I highly recommend it.

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I added nylon washers to the opto emitter board. The optos were hitting the switch interupters.

I need to cut a shroud for my optos.
Does anyone have a template?
It's not critical, I can cut one out of heavy paper.

Can I plug the opto box into the game and test it?

I'll see if it works.

Next I have to rework the new mini playfield and take the ball dents out of the lower scoop assembly.

The mini posts on the lower scoop are almost worn in half lol.

I had to find the part number for them off the IPDB parts list (BOM), fortunately marco had them.

My game has seen a lot of action and silly operator hacks, but the playfied is really nice!

That cable does NOT go through the pf. It should just go straight back.

thanks!

can someone post a picture of how the whomibile, switch, clear plastic is assembled on the right side above the wireform?

I have the ramp but the switch seems too high as its installed wrong. It has to be bent down a lot for the ball to hit it.

I ordered the plastic and new ramps from marco and a whomobile from swinks.

Im just am not clear on how the corner is assembled.

Im working on decals.

I noticed a guest purchased some whomobiles recently - just hope you got the mod ones as I have various types there. If so contact Shapeways to see if you can halt the order and swap with the correct ones????

As for the switch under the whomobile you might get some ideas from my mod manual.

DW Whomobile Mod - Manual V-02.pdf

Take a photo of what it looks like now

Yes that was me!
I couldn't remember my password or login for the site, it had been awhile. Lol

I bought the regular ones.

I was just looking for one to replace my missing one on the right for the "factory" look. No one seems to have them any more.

I think the nylon can be dyed black with Rit dye. I have had good results on nylon in the past. We'll see.

Same with the mushroom buttons, thanks for offering them.
I think I can dye them gray:
https://www.amazon.com/Rit-DyeMore-Advanced-Polyester-Acrylic/dp/B00U2IXJ94

however really like the new whomobile you designed.
I can change them out later if I want to paint them up.

That does look quite better.

The whomobile was such an odd choice for an accessory in this game - it’s only in 1 season basically. There were SO many other choices that could have been made!

Eh, looks better than an exposed switch, which I assume would really have cut the cost.

Yeah, seems like a lot of Doctor’s have led rough lives. At least they have us to care for them now.

Just joined the club. Doctor Who has been on my wishlist for a long time. Now I need to catch up on this thread...

Or one of those grey rubber caps.