Thanks man!

I've got a sticker, didn't know if it was supposed to go on top or on the back though.

Thanks !

Not this one. Tough as nails, nice and thick. And the stickers were out of stock everywhere when I looked.

How did you cut the display?

I have a table saw with a laminate blade. I put painters tape on it and on the table to prevent scratches.

Time lord checking in! Love this game!!

I decided to side-light my speaker panel. Took about 4 hours to do.

Just noticed my 2 spotlights for the playfield are pointed a bit high and shining on my dmd panel. Need to adjust those

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Looks good! Care to share how you did the speaker panel?

3/8" plexiglass. 12v Led light strips with dimmer.

1: Cut plexiglass to the exact size of the speaker panel.
2: Using a tracing bit on your router cut out the holes for the speakers/dmd/Dr's
3: Paint the inside edges of all the holes you just cut and the left and right outside edge. Paint them black. Leave the paper on the plexi so you only paint the inside of the holes and nothing else. This is to stop light bleed later.
4: Drill out all the holes for the t-nuts/screws that hold the speakers/dmd/top plastic channel. Countersink them on the front using a forstner bit.
5: Route out 1/8" deep squares that are slightly wider than the speaker holes to accommodate the speaker grills
6: Cut the speaker grills to the new smaller size and epoxy them into the spots you just routed.
7: Take the front plexi artwork off the old speaker panel and remove the black "masking" off the back of it. Clean up any glue residue with wd-40 and windex.
8: Flatten out the 3 "flanges" on the t-nuts so they sit flat in the countersunk holes you cut for them and put them in the holes.
9: Re-attach the speakers and dmd. When installing the Dr's light pcb you will need to drill the 4 small holes and use 4 small screws to attach it. Pre-drilling will stop the plexi from splitting.
10: Put a light strip in the bottom channel on the game and wire it to to the led dimmer.
11: Put a light strip in the top channel and wire it to the led dimmer with molex plug so you can remove it later if moving the game. Attach the top channel to the speaker panel.
12: Wire the led dimmer to the 12v test points on the MPU board.
13: Slide in the front speaker panel with artwork. Use double sided clear tape on the 2 sides and the bottom to hold it in place.

14: Enjoy your side-lit speaker panel.

Here's a video I did last year kind of showing how it works :

That is really nice! For an alternative option, check out the lit speaker panel at lightedpinballmods.com

They have one specifically for Dr Who that is just beautiful. Pick any colour you want or let the colours slowly cycle

Um yea, I know that. I even mention it several times in my video.

Dang .. lol sorry, watched with the sound off!

That's alright.

Funny thing is that when I decided to make the one I did for Fish Tales I didn't know they were going to make them and they weren't even available yet. So I made mine and posted about it. Then Dan contacted me and showed me the thread where he was about to start selling them. That's why I mentioned him in my video.

I actually learned how to side-lite things back when I was front-lighting GameBoy Advances and Neo-Geo handhelds.

It's not terribly hard to do, but you have to have a lot of tools and some skill. Much easier for most people to pay $140-$230 and wait for it to come in the mail.

I just enjoy creating.

Very very cool, looks great

Hi guys,

i know that that some of you are going to make some "mushroom" targets with 3D printers.
If somebody is interested, i've got in extra a set of five new old stock targets. MP

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I would recommend anyone needing the mushrooms to grab the ones in the post above as they are rare.

I have designed an option for people especially if they want to customise - available at Shapeways
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinkswho&sort=newest

thanks to Clnilsen for posting the parts to me so I could model up

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I have a problem with my "O" ramp. It is loose and seems unsecured. I was looking at it and it seems there is a hole without a screw in it. Do you think that could be the problem and how would I get the screw? I included a picture but I'm not sure you can see so good what I'm talking about.

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New Time Lord checking in.

Anyone know where I can get a new translight? The one this came with is just plexiglass and a print.

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I just felt like duckduckgo-ing and I found two different alternate backglasses and an Ebay link for an original glass. Don't know if it's useful or not.

http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/dr-who-alternate-translite.html

ebay.com link: Doctor Who Pinball Alternate Translite

ebay.com link: Doctor Who Pinball Game Bally Trans light Used Good Condition Free Shipping

Man, those real translites are getting up there in price. The alternate looks nice, but doesn't match up with the light show on the backboard, FYI

I have the alternate translight from that second link and it works out well with the original lighting. No complaints here. It looks so much better than the original that was on the game.

Thanks, I snapped up the original on eBay. I didn't see one listed when I looked Saturday night. And the alternate translite's just look too "Photoshop" to me.

Now, maybe next week I can get an order in at Marco and I can get a new glass and trim pieces, along with some other little parts... purchasing with Paypal doesn't seem to be working there right now. I'll try again in a few days.

Thanks for the links!

Restoring my plastics for dr who. Made repro slingshots. If somebody need it, I have extra pairs. I also will make other plastics for this pinball. If somebody need other parts. Let me know

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How do you guys make the plastics like that? Is there a printer which prints backwards onto the plastic and then cuts it? or is this kind of all by hand?

Is there supposed to be a post sleeve installed at the tip of the left-hand inline/outlane ball guide? If so, what diameter sleeve? There is on mine, but for some reason, the sleeve appears to be too big and when the ball starts down the left outlane, it gets stuck between the sleeve and side of the machine since there isn't enough space for it to pass. Could just be my sleeve is swollen and I need a new one. Or it could be the previous owner just put one in to make the game easier......

Anyone have any thoughts and if possible, could someone post a picture of what this area should look like?

If you mean just off the white ship's left side, there is no screw in mine either. If your ramp is loose, I'd check for stripped holes around screws and posts.

That's a really good copy! I had to make a bulk purchase of slings for like 15 games just to get my hands on NOS for my Doctor Who. What I had before were really poorly made home made ones.

No post sleeve there.

That's what I suspected. Probably installed as a hack to increase ball time. Nothing like a previous owner just putting a screw straight into the playfield.....sigh.

Installed the Gulf 5 bank Opto set. Doesn't work at all. I can see the Optos light up.
However can't figure out how to test receivers.

Anyone else install the Gulf Opto bank from ebay. Ugh!

hello guys, i m looking to replace these decals but i didn ´t find them anywhere... any link to buy them? i t seems a pdf file is available, i can print them by myself if i can get it... thanks

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There is a link somewhere in this thread to the PDF

A fellow pinsider Sharon created this:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/doctor-who-decals
faz

thanks a lot for the link.
amazing dr who club!!!

Warning!!! Gulf Opto board have larger optos. Just FYI - According to others they work. (edit)

See comparison.

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Shim the board down to bring the tip of the opto out of the way of the button.

I did this on mine initially - You can also just grind down the tips of the optos a bit, they will stil work. You need to take off about 1/8 of an inch

I think the optos available now are just longer in general. I bumped into this when I replaced some and had to shim it.

I am not 100% certain if the problem was the GULF reproduction or if the issue was a hack job with wiring.

Last night I spent the better part of an hour tracing all the connectors back to pins. ( Thank god for the Mini Playfield PDF)
I installed the NOS part someone sold me via ebay and got things working.

I didn't want to make the assumption that the last person who worked on the machine did their due diligence.
I've pretty much have had to redo everything on this game.

The playfield though is great.

Does anyone know what differences exist on the sample games? Anyone know where the serial numbers start? I just picked up a machine with a wobble head and am trying to determine if it is one of the original samples that still had it.

I don't know about Serial Numbers but if you look at Jon Pertwee's cloak you can tell.

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=738&picno=69320&zoom=1

Proto: plain
Production: checked

there's also some subtle shading of the dark blue near the MPF.

faz

I am looking for info on the sample, not the protos. This doesn't have an x in the serial number or red boards in the head. It does however have the moving topper and the ship switch covers have no decals on them.

Hmm thought that was the same thing. Watching ...

faz

Nope, protos are exactly that. Samples would be the first machines off the line. These were the ones they would build to test for issues in production. They would use up any excess red boards and often any remaining proto parts. I have a sample radical that has the proto ramp and some of the wiring for the proto parts. Later games wouldn't have the wiring and use a different ramp. My sample pinball magic has decals for some of the artwork on the pf, stainless rails/lockdown bar/legs where production had theirs powdercoated black.

Samples often have parts that made it through the prototype stage, but would be cut from the bom due to cost by the bean counters. The moving dalek head is one of those things. However, because there have been two mods to add that functionality back to this game I want to make sure I know what I have, plus learn if there are any neat differences I have not noticed.

So, aside from the head, are you seeing any other things that lead you to think it's not a production machine? Decals, odd parts, etc

What about stickers in the cab/backbox?

Very interested!
faz

Black knight had a pretty extensive post about sample/proto differences. Not sure if it was posted here or another thread.

Protos having the different head and artwork. samples had regular flippers, plus the noted artwork and moving dalek head.

Probably some other stuff Im forgetting

Flippers would not be a giveaway at this point. People switch between lightning and regular depending on their preferences and desire for originality. This has lightning, but they are new and not original.

I will see if I can dig his old post up. Game will be back on its legs today and I can figure this out.

Think I found the post. Bottom of this page. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/anyone-tried-to-re-create-the-bally-style-doctor-who-cabinet

"I have the second sample prototype when they retained the "wobble head" and scrapped the rest of the top backbox for initial cost reductions.
This was before they initiated full production, and then temporarily stopped production to no longer support the dalek gearbox and assembly.
The first sample prototype was the one shown in the above photos.
The differences on my machine are wiring, boards, and dalek assembly (and a few other little things), the cabinet is the same as the production run along with the translite.

Based on my records:
4 First Prototype (only two completed)
<10 Second Prototype
<100 First part of the production run before restart ("wobble head" removal)
7450 final run.
These are estimates, as the first machines were in various states of assembly, so I do not know if you really can count them as "finished" products.
Linda most definitely has the original translite artwork somewhere, but I am not an acquaintance.
I have no clue how many of the original backbox plastics were made because they changed the design on that one too, which ended up being the "lost plastic"."

If you want to ask some detailed questions. Do it now. I've traded a few emails with Pfutz... he was pretty responsive too.
faz

I wonder if CPR will be able to run Dr. Who Plastics. This by far is my favorite WPC era game.

I know some plastics sets were out there years ago. Who originally produced them

Just have to negotiate with the BBC And the actors portrayed.

What actors are portrayed on plastics. Just Daleks for the most part.