(Topic ID: 76377)

Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!

By HoakyPoaky

10 years ago


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#1851 5 years ago

thanks for your answers...
when i get the scan from dark pinball i ll show it to abfriend of mine who is a machine shop guy
let u know
thanks again

#1852 5 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Outstanding drawing. I actually thought of you; given your shop skills, this bracket would be nothing.
DavidC: There it is, pretty straight forward. Just keep in mind this bracket is pretty thick. Looking at the above diagram, 2.25mm. That thickness was required to hold the bend in the angle. That bracket takes a lot of torque. A small corner triangle may be needed (or a block) to keep the bracket true. Darkpinball, any advice here? Am I making stuff up or is this a concern?
faz

I used slightly thicker sheet metal on the extended bracket I made since 2.25mm isn't a common thickness over here, 2.5mm or 3mm, it was some time ago now so I don't remember which though and it's not in my possession.
The hole distances might have to be recalculated if you use thicker material and I used the same width (76.3mm) all the way, these two changes will probably be enough to keep it squared.
In post #21 of this thread is the bracket I made back then.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/modified-doctor-who-mpf-elevator

Quoted from DavidC:

thank you so much, please send me scan i send my email by pm
thanks

Absolutely, it will take another day for me to have it scanned and email it.

#1853 5 years ago

I'm also in the same boat , I have two mini play fields both missing the motor bracket.

#1854 5 years ago

well i went to a machine shop to have a quote for motor bracket with Dark pinball draw... i ll have quote soon.
who is in? goal is not to make money, just split cost and make this part available...
let me know

thanks

#1855 5 years ago

Hi everyone.
Concerning mini playfield (MPF) issue : if you want to have a decent gameplay with multiball , but you have a problem with motor and/or gearbox , or with cam assembly , you can still play (while waiting to resolve the problem or waiting the spare parts) as follow:
- disable the Time Expander/MPF operation (Adjustments Menu->Feature Adjustments->A.47 Mini Playfield).
- find a way to rise up the MPF at third level with the 3-Doors exposed (an easy way, if possible, is through the Test Menu->T.14 Mini-playfield Test).

With these settings , you can play a full multiball game in an ordinary sequence: shoot two balls through the doors in order to “lock Ace” and “lock Doctor” , then shoot al least five balls to the doors to start count-down “expansion factor to 0”, and then the Dalek’s multiball as usual, until Davros super jackpot.

Useful also if you have a fully working MPF, and you want have some training to increase your skill shoot on 3-Doors targets.

I hope this help…

#1856 5 years ago

Count me in on the bracket...

#1858 5 years ago

hi folks, just picked up my Dr who project... game is in boxes, so i need some teardown pictures.. anybody able to share their teardown pictures?
thanks

#1859 5 years ago

How torn down is it? Like a playfield swap gone bad or worse?

The worst part is the mini playfield.

Check out the whitepaper that I put together on it.

https://sites.google.com/site/pinballfaz/ (scroll to the bottom of my "website")

Best,
faz

#1860 5 years ago
Quoted from DavidC:

hi folks, just picked up my Dr who project... game is in boxes, so i need some teardown pictures.. anybody able to share their teardown pictures?
thanks

Sounds like an interesting project! It would be interesting to see what it looks like now. There are a lot of pictures in this thread but I'm sure people will dig out pictures as needed to help.

#1861 5 years ago

My second pin. Bought it as a complete wreck for $400 in 2010. After a new coin door, full LEDs, new Time Expander motor, opto boards, DMD, Dalek head mod, CPU and Power Driver boards, and a thorough cleaning, it's still a POS, but plays like nobody's business. Never leaving my collection.

15244493859201697542201 (resized).jpg15244493859201697542201 (resized).jpg

#1862 5 years ago

Officially left the club yesterday

Its ok though, i sold the Dr to my buddy. Him and his little one’s first machine!

DAAFC168-9413-4E34-B256-E550BAFA8F59 (resized).jpegDAAFC168-9413-4E34-B256-E550BAFA8F59 (resized).jpeg

#1863 5 years ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

Officially left the club yesterday
Its ok though, i sold the Dr to my buddy. Him and his little one’s first machine!

DAYUM that’s a nice one! Gotta get mine back..

#1864 5 years ago

i have a question about the cam...
motor , bracket and cam were missing so... new parts but question... lol

there is no reference on manual about roller and E clamp for the cam...
can u help me to know what is needed here?
thanks

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#1865 5 years ago

is it possible this is this i need?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#1866 5 years ago
Quoted from Graves:

Count me in on the bracket...

do you have a roller cam for sale?

#1867 5 years ago

I would assume it's the same one . That's used on the whole mini play field..

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

#1868 5 years ago

Does anyone know where I can find the "lock" insert decals? I've seen a decal set at places like Marco, but based on the picture, it appears to be missing this decal for some reason.

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#1869 5 years ago
Quoted from beeker3000:

Does anyone know where I can find the "lock" insert decals? I've seen a decal set at places like Marco, but based on the picture, it appears to be missing this decal for some reason.

You can print your own by getting waterslide decal paper, scanning the other lock decal, and printing in an inkjet or laser printer, then cutting out and applying

#1870 5 years ago
Quoted from Graves:

I would assume it's the same one . That's used on the whole mini play field..

sadly not the same...

#1871 5 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

scanning the other lock decal

I like this idea but haven't done it before. In order to scan the undamaged decal I'd either need to remove it or use a wand scanner, right? Is there another option?

#1872 5 years ago
Quoted from beeker3000:

I like this idea but haven't done it before. In order to scan the undamaged decal I'd either need to remove it or use a wand scanner, right? Is there another option?

You can take a photo, measure the area, then resize it in Photoshop, but this is the least preferable option

#1873 5 years ago
Quoted from beeker3000:

I like this idea but haven't done it before. In order to scan the undamaged decal I'd either need to remove it or use a wand scanner, right? Is there another option?

Someone here has to have a scan of it. The real question would be, why isn't the commercially available set complete? I need this decal also, but I don't really care that much because my DW is a beater.

#1874 5 years ago

i can send you a scan of it, just happened to me this week...

#1875 5 years ago

If you look up the part # on macro it comes up with the roller cam 02-4576. I think it's under CIRQUS VOLTAIRE ... I could be wrong though. Look up the part #

#1876 5 years ago
Quoted from DavidC:

i can send you a scan of it

That would be greatly appreciated.

#1877 5 years ago
Quoted from beeker3000:

That would be greatly appreciated.

i ll do that soon...

#1878 5 years ago

another noob question...
some of orange wires were broken in 5 optos mini pf bank...
so i looked in manual and i plugged them like this, is this correct .... i have doubts...
thanks...

A1EDD82A-0404-49E0-A101-828833846D04 (resized).jpegA1EDD82A-0404-49E0-A101-828833846D04 (resized).jpeg

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#1879 5 years ago

i dunno if it can help but can scan if needed

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#1880 5 years ago

Hi
I worked on opto boards today, i followed the faz mpf guide to wire the boards
But when i reinstalled bords in mushroom targets assy, i remarked this
Switch 71:switch right 1 when in position
Or/green to receiver
Grey/green to transmitter
But when boards installed led5 (a5) grey/green iis in front of E1(q1) grey/brown...
Is that correct? for me it s a no sens...not supposed to be in front of E5(q5) orange/green???
I am lost ... May i have confirmation please...

Thanks

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

#1881 5 years ago

This is really easy to test.

Step 1) turn the game off... raise the playfield
Step 2) plug the connector for these optos into the game (Remember these are just emitters/receivers).
Step 3) turn game on, put the game in test mode.
Step 4) look at the opto emitters through a digital camera (iPhone works). You should see the IR LEDs light up.
IF all five LEDS are lit, you know it's wired correctly (they are always on 100% of the time).
Step 5) while in test cover four of the five receivers. See if the right switch lights up on the test screen.

easy peasy

faz

#1882 5 years ago

just to be 100% clear. Don't install the boards into the MPF... just hold them in your hand.

Here's a photo of the emitters via a camera.
faz

P4020039 (resized).JPGP4020039 (resized).JPG

#1883 5 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

This is really easy to test.
Step 1) turn the game off... raise the playfield
Step 2) plug the connector for these optos into the game (Remember these are just emitters/receivers).
Step 3) turn game on, put the game in test mode.
Step 4) look at the opto emitters through a digital camera (iPhone works). You should see the IR LEDs light up.
IF all five LEDS are lit, you know it's wired correctly (they are always on 100% of the time).
Step 5) while in test cover four of the five receivers. See if the right switch lights up on the test screen.
easy peasy
faz

yep but as i said project game in boxes so not able to test with power...
i need pic of working wiring if possible just to be able to put a CHECK on this opto assy...
thanks

#1884 5 years ago

oh, then do this LAST. This is critical to the game but not critical to getting it running.

If it was me I'd unplug everything from the power driver board (input included).
apply power to the transformer; test the transformer lugs
Then hook the driver board; test all the touch points

once you have clean power add one system at a time: GI, solenoids, etc

Right? I mean why start with the end of the system train?
faz

#1885 5 years ago

Here you go David

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

#1886 5 years ago

Good, i was right... And led 1 works with q5 weird in my opinon but seems to be right
Thanks

#1887 5 years ago

A pic of The Who mobile mod from Swinks - I was asked where I attached the wires. This is on the right side on the video ready arrow light (which I cannot see during gameplay). The light in The Who mobile flash when ready.

6C05DDA9-9AC2-4140-870E-306CFD092A86 (resized).jpeg6C05DDA9-9AC2-4140-870E-306CFD092A86 (resized).jpeg

#1888 5 years ago

pics for graves
micro switches connect there...

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

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image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#1889 5 years ago

Thanks for the pictures.. If the harness is for the ramp micro switches picture #1 , what are the four chopped wires in pictures #2 for ?

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

#1890 5 years ago

I'm trying to price my Doctor Who for sale. It's got minimal side fade, great playfield, I'm installing repro ramps and a rubber kit in the next week or two, the mini playfield has a cliffy but it's a little beat on the edge, color DMD installed. Up here in the Northwest pins tend to be on the higher end of the scale, does $3400 seem like the right territory? I'm thinking 3K plus the $400 color DMD. No mods or LEDs.

#1891 5 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

A pic of The Who mobile mod from Swinks - I was asked where I attached the wires. This is on the right side on the video ready arrow light (which I cannot see during gameplay). The light in The Who mobile flash when ready.

thanks for sharing

for anyone wanting to connect up to a similar feature that Dr John has you can now do it simpler with Comet Pinballs matrix globe - drop a globe into the socket that has an adaptor lead coming out of it to connect the Whomobile lighting to.

http://www.cometpinball.com/category-s/1871.htm

#1892 5 years ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

I'm trying to price my Doctor Who for sale. It's got minimal side fade, great playfield, I'm installing repro ramps and a rubber kit in the next week or two, the mini playfield has a cliffy but it's a little beat on the edge, color DMD installed. Up here in the Northwest pins tend to be on the higher end of the scale, does $3400 seem like the right territory? I'm thinking 3K plus the $400 color DMD. No mods or LEDs.

Post pics.

#1893 5 years ago
Quoted from Graves:

Thanks for the pictures.. If the harness is for the ramp micro switches picture #1 , what are the four chopped wires in pictures #2 for ?

probably for this...

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#1894 5 years ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

I'm trying to price my Doctor Who for sale. It's got minimal side fade, great playfield, I'm installing repro ramps and a rubber kit in the next week or two, the mini playfield has a cliffy but it's a little beat on the edge, color DMD installed. Up here in the Northwest pins tend to be on the higher end of the scale, does $3400 seem like the right territory? I'm thinking 3K plus the $400 color DMD. No mods or LEDs.

That seems reasonable to me, maybe a little low for the PNW.

#1895 5 years ago

What do you do when you can't find a Dr. Who dome topper. Well fabricate your own of course.

First I bought a basketball display case:

ebay.com link: Basketball unsigned Display Case with Black Base

Then I cut it down 4" shorter.

Then I made some stickers that closely resemble the factory stickers. I didn't have photo sticker paper so I just used some regular sticker paper temporarily until I can get the non see-through glossy sticker paper tomorrow.

Then I put it on my backbox

The last pic is of the factory topper for comparison.

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#1896 5 years ago

Nice!

#1897 5 years ago
Quoted from hailrazer:

What do you do when you can't find a Dr. Who dome topper. Well fabricate your own of course.
First I bought a basketball display case:
ebay.com link » Basketball Unsigned Display Case With Black Base
Then I cut it down 4" shorter.
Then I made some stickers that closely resemble the factory stickers. I didn't have photo sticker paper so I just used some regular sticker paper temporarily until I can get the non see-through glossy sticker paper tomorrow.
Then I put it on my backbox
The last pic is of the factory topper for comparison.

that actually looks BETTER than the factory one! Be careful though, those display case plastics are brittle

also you can purchase the stickers at Little Shop of Games or Marco's

#1898 5 years ago

Here is my solution to the color DMD lamp board mod. I like it because its a relatively simple no solder solution and is completely reversible. You need to purchase 7- 3smd light strips $2.95 each at Comet and a few inches of double sided tape.
Cut about 1/4" off the ends of each light strip and attach to the color dmd display spaced to where the doctors are.
strips (resized).jpgstrips (resized).jpg
mounting (resized).jpgmounting (resized).jpg

Attach the lamp board to the back of the color DMD display using double sided tape making sure to mask out the pins with electric tape or double sided tape to avoid shorting. Run a strip of electric tape along the bottom of the display to prevent the metal from cutting the wires over time (not shown yet).
attached (resized).jpgattached (resized).jpg

Attach the socket connectors that come with each strip to the lamp board, put everything back and enjoy.
finished (resized).jpgfinished (resized).jpg

#1899 5 years ago
Quoted from hailrazer:

What do you do when you can't find a Dr. Who dome topper. Well fabricate your own of course.

That's AWESOME!!! The angles fit the theme better IMO than the original curved plastic.

Very nicely done!
faz

#1900 5 years ago
Quoted from hailrazer:

What do you do when you can't find a Dr. Who dome topper. Well fabricate your own of course.
First I bought a basketball display case:
ebay.com link » Basketball Unsigned Display Case With Black Base
Then I cut it down 4" shorter.
Then I made some stickers that closely resemble the factory stickers. I didn't have photo sticker paper so I just used some regular sticker paper temporarily until I can get the non see-through glossy sticker paper tomorrow.
Then I put it on my backbox
The last pic is of the factory topper for comparison.

Thats epic! I would only add buy the hologram sticker sheet and attach it to the back - DEFINITELY looks better than factory!

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