It's a weird feature. I thought maybe it could be turned off somewhere in the settings. I've never seen it on any other WPC game. At least by default.

They are back up.

http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/category/25-doctor-who/

They are in .ogg format though. You'll have to let the Pinsound board convert them or convert it in Pinsound Studio to .wav.

Mine doesn't do that.

Neither does mine. Maybe it's a different ROM?

Hmm...my rom is L-2.

L-2 is the only rom besides prototype. Possibly a flakey switch or being too enthusiastic with pushing the start button. Try to shoot a video.

Does anyone have a clear picture of the time expander with the cover removed and a picture of the underside of the cover?

I am restoring a Dr Who which had many original parts missing like the time expander cover and the lights under it. I am trying to rebuild it as original as possible but the schematics in the manual is not really clear, so a picture would really help me.

For just getting the time-expander light up again like original I got this whole shopping list:
03-8662-9 Red starburst plastic mini-dome lamp cover
03-8666 Time expander cover (Thanks Freeplay40!!!)
31-1688 Time expander decal
A-12336-1 Socket & Bulb Assembly
H-15594 Lamp Cable (I cannot find that cable anywhere, does anybody know the part number of the connector?)
07-6688-19N Rivet, 1/8 x 7/32
07-6688-18N Rivet, 1/8 x 3/16
A-16041 Bulb & Light Socket Assembly
5070-09054-00 Diode 1N4004
03-8063-6 Sleeve

Bumper, by "the cover" do you mean the plastic piece which sits on the very top (with the big decal) ? If you need a new one, there was a thread around here where new, thicker ones were made

Yes, I already ordered the new one, coming in soon. But that is just a piece of plastic, the lamps under it are missing too, and I don't know how that red plastic dome is mounted to the cover.

Thank you! I tried with another .ogg file (not yours) and it didn't auto-convert. I'll download them and give it a shot.

EDIT: the British lady is telling me percentage converting progress so i think im good!

anybody ever have their machine reset during multiball only? seems weird to me that it only happens during multiball.

Brian

I imagine there's enough going on during multiball that if your 5V is getting weak, this is when you're most likely to get resets.

Probably because the mini playfield fires up then, and you have a lot more coils going at the same time. I used to have that problem, had to replace my voltage regulator on the power driver board. The drop in no-heat replacement is amazing! Changed the game

thanks for the tips guys, once I get a chance to look and diagnose, I'll report back.
Brian

You can try a Rob Kahr board to fix it, may or may not work depending on your issue with your board. Eventually my voltage reg went so bad it could not keep the 5v steady

Joined the club on the weekend. A very dirty and faded working project. Spent two days cleaning and fixing faults. Just getting it working properly and tidy for now. I'll do a full resto down the track. Kids had a great time with the decals and did a pretty good job I think. I used up a few LEDs I had left over for the Gi. I'm not usually a fan of coloured Gi but it was all I had.

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Outstanding work!

I had this happen for the first time yesterday as well. I hit the jack pot on multiball, which triggered the REPLAY knocker while the PF was moving and boom it was power out and reset.

Mine doesn't. Sounds like a touchy start button.

I just bought a DW from the for sale page here, can’t wait for it to get here. I’ll post pictures once it arrives. Oh, and by the way, Tom Baker.

That's the Doctor I grew up with! I have this vivid memory of the Doctor and 2 companions walking around in what I remember as a warehouse or possibly a battleship, with multi-level control panels (or at least a couple of stairs up!) The other day I am pretty sure I saw it the episode in question, but I missed the title! Sarah Jane Smith was in it (the one I saw recently), and she gets trapped in a room and faints or is knocked out or something. I will track it down eventually!

congratulations on joining the club!

And if there was any question who was the best Doctor...

Looking forward to the next season and the Christmas episode!

This just came today, my first pin. Too bad one of the flippers went bad, oh well, it’ll be fun when it gets fixed. Now I see why you need to have multiple pins, if one is down, play another.

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Wahoo! The Dr. Is back up and running after replacing the 5volt voltage regulators.

Brian

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Yep, mine is back up and running too. The seller, Pintopia, fixed the fliptronics board for me and I replaced the coil for the upper left flipper, my first pin repair and first time soldering. Me and the kids have been putting a bunch of games on it since getting it working again on Friday. Lots of fun.

One other problem I've been having is button switch false hits under the mini playfield. I found a mod on thingiverse that I was able to 3D print that stops opto light bleed at these switches. It works fantastic. It's something I had thought about designing, and then one shows up on thingiverse, if you have a 3D printer, print one out, it's pretty nice. And works great.
Brian

Here is the link to the part: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2387162

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bpull How about a link!?!?!

That's great! Plus that part is unobtanium these days!
faz

EDIT: I guess Marco does have them... but I think I'd like fresh ABS.

Hi Faz, unfortunately it's only the part that fits inside between the opto boards and not the button holder part. That's also on the list to design for printing, but it'll be awhile. maybe someone will beat me to that too. LOL

Brian

Anyone have any advice for fixing connectors between green light board and cpu?

The connector to my ESCAPE targets is failing. I can get it work and five minutes later it needs to be reseated. Do I simply reflow soder on pins?

Also have couple other lights on greenboard work one minute after tweaking bulb sockets.
Then not working later. Tried new black connector detachable pots. Not sure how to consisely communicate this.

I was asked by a member to post a picture of the permanent markers used to make my doctor who respectable until I re-decaled it.
The brand is pilot. V super color refillable
Hope it helps.

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Wow, night and day difference. Amazing job, it looks great.

Hi all. Whats a price check on original topper dome and dalek (non moving). Thankyou.

I believe one was Listed for $300 or so recently, but I am not sure it sold. If it’s non-moving it really diminishes the value

Wow I've been looking for one for years and one sold "recently" damn damnedy damn

Ben I will prob have one for sale with dome soon. Will put up for sale on here if when it happens. In Brisbane. Also have a set of new ramps, manuals, speaker panel plastic l, cab decals, full cliffy set and alot of mods.

Awesome - hopefully I don't miss it when you place the ad!

It was on here for weeks - seller was in Germany I think?

Greetings! can someone lead me to the board connector in the backbox of my Doctor Who that related to the E.S.C.A.P.E. lights on the playfield? Mine are intermittent and I would like to clean the connector and pins.
Thanks!

Look at your manual. Page 3-2 (Lamp Matrix). Restated on 3-22.

There's a crazy amount of info in that little diagram.

Across the top lists the columns, the rows down the left side.
The upper left grid square is (1,1)... or the the "E" in "Escape".

The connectors on the driver board are
J137 (column) pin #1... the wire should be Yellow w/Brown stripe
J133 (row) Pin #1 the wire should be Red w/Brown Stripe

The transistors are listed too (Q98/Q90).

EDIT: Oh... and the map of the driver board is on 2-11

Now you're an expert
faz

Perfect. I am still learning how to read the schematics. I will be an expert eventually.

Your issue is almost certain to be the connector down on the board and not in the back box. If you have already reflowed the header pins and it didn't help, you may need to replace the male pins and female connector. Issues caused from the backbox connection would have other lights having problems.

Most certainly is the board connector. It "works when wiggled" but does not seem to stay working unless some tension is on the light board. Is this when I "reflow the header pins"

It is such a great game. Everything is working but these lights and I want it 100% somehow it throws me off the entire game.

Yup, reflow the header pins on the light board. Should solve the issue.

Not sure how, very few had the original moving Dalek, the standard was really just the non-moving Dalek. I'd say not having the topper might diminish the value though.

Mark Davidson recreated the original design of the motorized head, but it's just the motor/mechs/boards.

You MUST find the dome and the Dalek to put the kit inside of it. Moving or not I think the topper is required. DW would not be the same without that Dalek eye stalk staring you down

Sharon posted about it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/marks-wobble-head-kit-doctor-who

faz

Thanks. I think I am going to go this route. How many coats of paint did you use? Can you tell up close if it was filled in by a marker?

had to sell my DW recently, so I am selling a good box to a timelord! Has an awesome Keychain, and a Dalek and k9 toy (maybe could be added somewhere in the machine? I never tried). $10 and ill toss in shipping... so it's free basically, just cover shipping which will be around $10 I imagine. Send a PM if interested.

Just printed this and put it in my Doctor Who. Excellent mod! Had false reads all the time and now no more

Hello to all the Dr Who owners here. Recently found a beautiful example, no fade, shopped, leds, solid 9.0 maybe even 9.5. Any thoughts on price for this pin in beautiful condition. No errors, everything works the way it should. Thanks