Not yet but you may want to message the places that sell the reproductions with stickers to see if they have a spare set of stickers to sell. Doesn't hurt to ask.

That's a good idea, thx

My Time Expander Cover and decal arrived on Friday. I just got it installed and I have to say I'm extremely pleased! It fits perfectly despite being made from thicker plastic. I got an OEM sticker from Little Shop of Games and it fit as well as the original. I have owned my game since 1996 and the broken cover was always an annoyance to me. This is great!

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Mine is in the mail... can't wait!
faz

Can you guys post a picture of the broken covers? I have been using Bondic Liquid Welder to repair a lot of stuff lately; fixed my top ramp with it recently (it was missing the entire top section with the post hole at the entrance). Anyway, I am trying to decide whether I should spring for the new Time Expander, or go for some other parts I am also in need of.

If anyone has the glass off the playfield can you take a picture of the front of the apron? Still trying to determine the correct two screws to get. Are the philips heads or 1/4 hex heads? Sheet metal style or machine screw? Also size 6, 8 or something else and how long? If it is in the manual I missed it.

Here's mine. 1.25 inch long.

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Awesome. Thank you! I took a chance and had ordered a couple different styles and I think one of them is an exact match for the one pictured. Now I can get the correct one installed.

Just saw in another post that Doctor Who ramps will be available within a couple weeks at Starship Fantasy!

Any idea on price? I still see a set for sale at Little Shop, but I think they are $250. Is Starship Fantasy reproducing the decals too? Those ramps are covered with stickers

Not sure on price. He posted something about them in the wrong thread so as a favor I reposted. You could email him and yes I expect his will have all the decals.

Can someone get a picture of the DMD display showing the default switch settings after the machine is powered on with all three balls loaded in the tough? I'd like to compare that with my machine and it would also help others that are troubleshooting their machines.

Thank You.

I ran into an odd issue with Dr Who after cleaning and servicing a pop bumper and shopping the machine. Everything seems to work perfectly but after locking the second ball in the TE the third ball seems to automatically launch on its own. If I recall correctly it didn't do that before and I always had to press the launch button. I'm wondering if I may need to adjust a switch or two or if I knocked something loose. I'd like to start by comparing the normal switch states with someone else's machine and will go through all the diagnostics tonight.

The attached image is the one from my machine with three balls loaded. Does that match up with the other Dr Who machines out there? I'd like to confirm this is correct. If not let me know what is different and I can check that section out.

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Can anyone confirm if you see the same behavior on your Doctor Who after locking the second ball in the Time Expander? I'd like to know if it is normal for the machine to launch the third ball automatically or wait to select a doctor then hit the launch button. Don't want to troubleshoot a problem that may not exist.

Mine waits for me to select a dr unless I already have all of the dr''s lit. Then it auto launches.

Here is mine with coin door closed. Otherwise identical to your photo.

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Thanks for posting that picture! It looks like the default switches are all ok since I had the door open at the time. The pictures will be a good reference and may help someone troubleshooting.

I still get that ball launch most of the time on the third ball so I will double check all the wiring to see if I can see anything out of place. Other than that the machine is playing well. Just trying to work out any remaining bugs to make it 100%

Has anyone found a matching red paint for the graphics on the sides of Dr who that is commonly faded? One side of mine is faded to just yellow and I have a friend that should be able to airbrush the red on that faded side to restore the original look.

If you've already done it what paint did you use, what equipment, and how did it turn out?

You either need to match the paint on the un-faded side or repaint the whole machine with the same red. Adding another "red" into the mix feels like it's going to end badly.... full disclosure: I've never done this kind of resto before but I did stay at a Holiday Inn....

faz

I get what you're saying but I'd still like to know if someone has already found a particular brand of paint that worked well and was a close match. There isn't any fade I can see on the left side or front of my cabinet. Even if the red is a hair off I'm sure it would better than only yellow on the right side. That whole side needs the red done but I wouldn't touch the front or left side.

I just picked up one of these as a spare and it is extremely well made. Definitely a great item to get if you need a replacement or want one for when it eventually does break. My new decal should be here tomorrow.

Are there any other parts known to go bad besides some of the plastics like this and the MP motor?

Can someone check to see how the weight is attached to the tilt rod? The weight on mine was sitting in the cabinet and just has the bare rod hanging down. I'm not sure if they used a regular nut or a nylock nut and if there were more than one used. The next time you have your coin door open can you take a quick look to see what is used on your machine?

Thank You!

Anyone know who stocks the cliffy protectors that go on the mini playfield and also the edge of the opening on the main play field? Those are still on my wish list of parts to get. I haven't found any in stock yet.

Email him direct, he's very helpful.

[email protected]

If the rod isn't threaded, a small spring clip is used instead. If it's threaded, a wing nut or two is what holds the bob in place

I think the rod is threaded but I will double check tonight. If it ends up being 4-40 threads then I think I may have one.

Looking to buy a Dr Who is Ohio, Indiana or Michigan if someone is interested in selling one let me know. Or I have other machines I might trade for it. Thanks!

Is this the clip that you have on your machine?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-10289

I wonder if all the Dr Who machines used this or if some have a wing nut to hold it in place.

I had a few people wanting my lighted speaker panel at Allentown. For months I thought it was the same board as The Addams Family, because they both had 7 cut outs. When I set up the display, I was unhappily surprised they were different. I just finished the Dr. Who panel, and it is one of the best looking panels.

If interested send me a PM.

Thanks
Dan

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Yep, that's the clip.

That is pretty cool!!

That panel looks great! EL panel correct?

Completely LED-lit from behind, not EL-wire, which will lose brightness over time and eventually not light at all (I know - I have one of the original EL wire Twilight Zone backboards)

Comes with a remote control with which you can dial in specific color schemes (works best on certain games but functions on all)

I will have one installed in my Nu-DW pin soon, and will post pics and a video

El panels are not El wire. Pretty sure it is paper, given one of the photos above. Thinking about building my own.

Poor choice of words on my part. EL panels are made using the same electro-luminance approach that EL-wire uses. A plastic panel or wire is coated with the EL solution, electricity is applied, and the EL coating lights up. Eventually that coating wears out or comes off, and you've just got a dimly lit piece of plastic.

That's not how these panels are made - these panels have LEDs embedded in a form mold which has transparent silicone poured in to allow the lights to shine through. It is a seriously robust final product. You replace the entire wood panel that the plastic artwork sits on top of, and it is evenly lit front behind.

Gotcha. I did read the panels have a limited life, although it is pretty long. If the above process is what is done, I can see why they are expensive. How thin is the above process? Seems like it would be thicker than a panel, but still thin enough to not cause fitment issues.

I'm not an expert on the EL stuff but solely with my experience on the twilight zone backboard, it's about a 10 year span, but apparently it dims slowly over time so you start to notice it sooner.

I'd have to measure the board thickness but the panel starts with a piece of backing wood or MDF to give it a solid form to start from, so it doesn't warp. That's sanded and then the silicone poured. It ends up being the same thickness as the main dmd panel - the -whole thing- speaker mounts, dmd and everything. Then you take the plastic panel with the art on it and put it in front. So it is fully backlit. They look awesome in a game. I posted some pics of my CFTBL, have not installed DW yet.

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Thanks for your great feedback.

We spent about a year and a half work on doing this different ways. We did experiment with EL panels on this, but very quickly removed those as an option. When we showed prototypes of these about 9 months ago, one of the biggest concerns was the brightness. EL panels are just not bright enough to light up through a silk screened plastic. Everyone that mentioned the brightness level, wanted the brightness level of the lighted speaker panel to match the brightness level of there translite. Well, their are many different levels of brightness on different translites, their are as many different levels as brightness are their are LED's and incandescent bulbs. No brightness control with EL panel, either it is on, or it is off. Our panels have brightness adjustments.

The next issue is color. I personally like cool white, which is a white that may have a hint of blue. Most people prefer warm white, which is white that has a yellow tint. Our Basic and Deluxe panels only turn on white and it is a cool white, if you have warm white LED's or incandescent bulbs you will have a slight yellow and the ultimate panel may be the best for you, the ultimate panel has full color changing capabilities. Another draw back of EL Panels, is no color changing.

Rdoyle1978, thanks for posting that picture. That picture answers one of the most common questions, does it work with a color DMD, and as you can see, it does. Rdoyle1978 has that panel set to a blue tint to give the drive it the feel of a night time drive in. With the color changing ability, you will find 5 or 6 colors that look real good, but everyone will have their favorite.

Dan

Woohoo! Joined the club today.

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A friend of mine just pointed out that the posts on the outlanes are adjustable. How are they set on your machine (up or down) and does anyone know how they were set from the factory?

I keep em in the middle, the out lanes are brutal on DW, but I like the challenge

It looks like mine are up at the top and I agree they can be brutal. Seems that after the fresh rubber rings and parts were installed it got worse. I may try to bring them down a bit to see if that helps.

I'm still really enjoying this game but need a lot more practice on it.

Mine are set at the top and for the first few weeks I was really frustrated. I've gotten a little more cautious now and am playing much better, but I think I am going to adjust the posts so guests actually want to play the machine! I still get a lot of cheap drains where the ball comes off the pops or bounces off a post, never touches a flipper, and is immediately gone.

Wow no fade at all!

He's got some on the front, but way better than most!

Oh yeah I see it - still, there's RED on them decals!

Thanks!

Yeah, I was surprised too when I showed up to see it how much color there still was on the sides. Almost makes the lack of topper bearable (now I gotta find one). The playfield is pretty much virgin as well.... smooth and shiny, no wear that I can see. Plus the guy bought powder coated legs... which look really nice in person. I think this and The Shadow are my nicest looking pins.

I saw someone selling a topper on eBay that looked like one of the prototype movable ones. A bit steep but may be worth messaging him with an offer.