Quoted from Fuse:Hope this helps
Hey thanks Fuse - can you confirm where the two red/white wires go? (the end opposite that connector) i can't see that in the picture
Anyone had an issue where in multi ball the balls won't eject by the phone booth. Registers in test mode and ejects fine on single ball play. Not familiar with this game. Just got it working last night. I've had 2 balls sitting in the vuk but nothing happens until ball search
I have the PF up. Theres only a few red/white wires but im not even sure thats the colors. Where does the loose wire go?
Btw... That yellow/white wire looks just like fuse's game. Goes to pop
Faz
Quoted from pinball_faz:I have the PF up. Theres only a few red/white wires but im not even sure thats the colors. Where does the loose wire go?
Btw... That yellow/white wire looks just like fuse's game. Goes to pop
Faz
I'll do a video after my kid goes to bed; I don't think photos are sufficient to give the right context. I'm pretty sure it's red/white though; in approx 20 minutes
Quoted from Fuse:Anyone had an issue where in multi ball the balls won't eject by the phone booth. Registers in test mode and ejects fine on single ball play. Not familiar with this game. Just got it working last night. I've had 2 balls sitting in the vuk but nothing happens until ball search
The "phone booth"?
Here's my quick video, hope it helps figure out where the wire is going. I am going to figure out where the wire that is still connected is going to.
Ok yes I've had a couple glasses of wine
If it is that connector which is the same as the one fuse shows then it's possible that broken wire and the connector it IS connected to currently has no voltage. The reason is that where it broke off of is a bigger wire which usually means that it was the delivery of voltage. Bigger wire means more current. This looks like a daisy chain.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Warning... not for the faint of heart..
» YouTube video
That's what I'm talking about!!! Holy crap. You guys are -the- best.
Fuse, catch86 and faz you guys have saved the day! (And saved me from spending $400 on new parts!!)
Faz that mpf runs SO much more smoothly after running through your guide. I don't have a video of it but it was.. not good, even when it worked well. It canted to the side horribly and you could tell the motor was really working hard.
Yes! I can't tell you how happy I am. No the video doesn't express it enough, I was being cool
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Warning... not for the faint of heart..
All right! Nice. looks great too... nice and smooooth!
Hey, if you want to get rid of that error count.... while in test, hit the "credit" button.
faz
Quoted from Fuse:You scared me, I thought you put on a smoke show or something.
Sorry, that was kind of mean! I was a little scared when I did it but usually same color wire is safe to put together: how about that smooth movement! (Ok I could have phrased that better)
Quoted from pinball_faz:All right! Nice. looks great too... nice and smooooth!
Hey, if you want to get rid of that error count.... while in test, hit the "credit" button.
faz
Will do! I was curious about that.
Will post once I have my new sound mix going to town! Woo! I have NEVER played a game on this machine because of that dang wire!... let's fix that...
Thanks to you and fuse and faz!
I'm going to go work on it a bit; my goal is to update it a little, new translite, new music (preview in the vid I posted sort of). I want a mix of the old and new - since you can't really hear what the doctor is saying (it's the seventh doctor in all the callouts), I didn't feel bad in replacing some of the phrases. Most of them don't really apply to the game anyway. I got some good dalek sound bites too!
After numerous distractions over the past few months, it was finally time for my Doctor Who to get some long overdue love! Assisted in no small part by our excursion to the Midwest Gaming Classic this year! I had been debating going the ColorDMD route for some time, and was pretty much ready to make the jump when they announced the LED version of the upgrade. Great! Another thing to debate, so really hoping that there might be some machines at MGC with the LED version to look at. Fortunately for the debate there were a fair number of games (no Doctor Who machines tho - bummer!) some with LCD and some with LED. Jackpot!
For me at least... the debate ended pretty much immediately. To my eye, the LED units were brighter, higher contrast, and overall just felt right. The order went out and the unit arrived Friday. I know what I was going to be doing Saturday!
And as advertised, an exact fit drop in! Connect the cables, and light it up!
ColorDMD LED installation
Unit info screen
Game boot screen
And once a few 'peace of mind' tests are completed, load up the 'chroma.rom' code and we're off!
Oooo Shiny!
Logo screen
Time Streams
Sorry if this falls into the 'old news' for some, but it's been a fair while since I got to do anything really cool to any of my games. It will also be getting a full set of 'Cliffy's' installed pretty soon. Already have them, just that darn 'time' thing again...
And then my 'bonus score' from MGC for the year... I spotted a particular name of interest in the attendees list for the year, so I decided to take a flier and bring the Doctor Who translite along to the show. And with a little help from my friends (many thanks Charlie and KT) I managed to meet Barry Oursler and he was kind enough to sign the translite for me.
Can you spot it?
Barry Oursler
It was a very good weekend!
MPF still working very well - quick question though; I am getting an error message of "no CCW movement". The MPF seems able to do what it needs to do, but I'm wondering what this error is about?
In test the MPF goes up and down fine, but I can't get the error to go away. Is this just a red herring? I'd like to get rid of the credit dot but the game is playing fine.
In other news, the issues I had with my flashers were fixed by the ONE dang wire, so that's all still working excellently as well.
ArcadeTechNerd can you confirm that you did not have to do anything special with the Doctor light board? The LCD had to be positioned very high, but if the LED board is a perfect fit, it would seem you don't need to do anything unusual?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:MPF still working very well - quick question though; I am getting an error message of "no CCW movement". The MPF seems able to do what it needs to do, but I'm wondering what this error is about?
The MPF can drive up and down by CW or CCW movement. It's possible the Bi-Directional board is having issues and power is not pushing the MPF up the CCW path. WPC compensates for missing switches. I would not be surprised (this is a guess on my part) that if the MPF CCW is not working it would compensate by driving the MPF via CW movement.
Unplug the motor and put the DMM into the circuit again. See what's coming out. Actually, I'd like to see if your voltages are back up to spec after the flasher issues are fixed.
faz
Quoted from pinball_faz:The MPF can drive up and down by CW or CCW movement. It's possible the Bi-Directional board is having issues and power is not pushing the MPF up the CCW path. WPC compensates for missing switches. I would not be surprised (this is a guess on my part) that if the MPF CCW is not working it would compensate by driving the MPF via CW movement.
Unplug the motor and put the DMM into the circuit again. See what's coming out. Actually, I'd like to see if your voltages are back up to spec after the flasher issues are fixed.
faz
Flashers are fixed - it was ALL being caused by that one piggybacked wire. You may remember me posting about flashers 6 or 7 weeks ago - I am pretty sure that wire was it all along. (I even replaced a TIP102 on my PDB!)
Have not re-checked the voltages since the other day though. What you stated about the CW movement compensating seems to be the case; it just goes all the way up/down then back again to go to the middle. Works fine, but I can tell now that it would be better to drive both ways.
I have a replacement Bi-D motor board,so I will try that and see if I get any different results.
ALSO just noticed there's a wire missing that completes the "lock" lights circuit in the MPF. so I've got to remove it... again... lol I noticed those were out weeks ago and just figured they were bad bulbs, so I replaced them with LEDs, but I realized last night they dont' light up at all. Another wire... not sure to where it needs to be connected.
Sidebar: I LOVE THIS GAME! I am loving the complicated rules and the MPF is awesome! love the loop shots especially.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:arcadetechnerd can you confirm that you did not have to do anything special with the Doctor light board? The LCD had to be positioned very high, but if the LED board is a perfect fit, it would seem you don't need to do anything unusual?
Did not even have to touch the light board! OK, I needed to change one dodgy bulb but that needed to happen anyway.
The LED version of the ColorDMD upgrade is pretty much the exact size of a standard DMD display (perhaps a bit deeper, but there is more than ample room behind) so no special considerations/adjustments were needed.
Guys, what is current average price for a Dr Who? Interested in one that is on location, so likely a little roughed up and in need of shop. But overall playfield looks good.
This is a pin I dont know alot about. But seems like it might be a sleeper. Thanks!
Quoted from Elicash:Guys, what is current average price for a Dr Who? Interested in one that is on location, so likely a little roughed up and in need of shop. But overall playfield looks good.
This is a pin I dont know alot about. But seems like it might be a sleeper. Thanks!
Gotta see pics, but I would guess minimum 2.5k, unless it is in super poor shape, then less. Your location will also drive the price up or down, depending on where you live
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I am getting an error message of "no CCW movement". The MPF seems able to do what it needs to do, but I'm wondering what this error is about?
You should have checked the voltage in test mode? Does it go positive voltage and negative voltage? If the other board doesn't fix it then it's possible the motor wires are reversed? That would happen if the motor was replaced at one time. The color of the wires might be the same but the direction the motor spins might be reversed.
Quoted from Catch86:You should have checked the voltage in test mode? Does it go positive voltage and negative voltage? If the other board doesn't fix it then it's possible the motor wires are reversed? That would happen if the motor was replaced at one time. The color of the wires might be the same but the direction the motor spins might be reversed.
Yes, I did test the voltage, but I wasn't paying attention to the voltage indicator at the time, only the values. I can definitely check that - it wasn't obvious that the wires had been reversed, but it's an easy test to swap them. I've got to take the MPF out again to fix the 'lock' wire. Looking forward to really getting this game solid! ... and I need to buy a new "C" clip for one of the mushroom target; one of them keeps getting stuck.
Okay, I've got a Dr. Who that has been sitting in the basement for a couple of years. Decided yesterday to turn it on and see what happened... Got the "factory settings restored", which I expected, as the batteries haven't been touched. Also, as I was going through the tests, the machine would keep resetting. I'm guessing something is taking down the 5v, but as I was doing a quick check on stuff, there was a sudden sparking over by the audio board/fliptronics board area. Quickly turned it off, and investigated to find this on the audio board:
C26 is exploderated! Any ideas what I should be checking out next?
-Brian, off to find the correct schematics for the audio board.
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:Okay, I've got a Dr. Who that has been sitting in the basement for a couple of years. Decided yesterday to turn it on and see what happened... Got the "factory settings restored", which I expected, as the batteries haven't been touched. Also, as I was going through the tests, the machine would keep resetting. I'm guessing something is taking down the 5v, but as I was doing a quick check on stuff, there was a sudden sparking over by the audio board/fliptronics board area. Quickly turned it off, and investigated to find this on the audio board:
This is not a trivial diagnostic. I really recommend you open a dedicated thread. Board repair jocks don't monitor this type of thread. Good luck!
faz
Well, caps can smoke. So can resistors. Usually when caps short it's because of age as in dry out or a voltage higher than the rating of the cap hits it or the cap experiences a reverse polarity. Since the cap is blown I would do some resistance measurements where the cap used to be connected. If it were me I would power it back up to see if it still works. The cap is no longer in the circuit. However, I've been working on electronics for over thirty years. But like faz says you should probably ask the board jocks.
Just joined the Dr Who club and really like the machine so far. After rebuilding a battery damaged CPU the machine is up and running well. It needs a thorough cleaning (was in a smoking enviroment) and a full shop job with fresh balls and rubber rings. I'm trying to gather up all the parts before I start and noticed a broken post/fastener by the upper jet bumper as shown in the picture. Can someone post a good picture of what that post is supposed to be like? If you can reference the Bally part # that would help!
The machine was also missing the two apron screws in the front that hold it on. Would like to get the correct ones installed but don't know which ones were used since they are long gone.
This machine seems like a keeper. Any common parts that wear on these that I should think about buying a spare? I've read about a few gear boxes going out and it may be worth getting one to have on hand.
On the Time Expander there are a couple stickers on the inside edge near the front of the sides. Are there supposed to be stickers here and if so are they available? The ones on it are worn. I wasn't sure if those are supposed to be there or someone just added them and they should be removed.
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:Also, as I was going through the tests, the machine would keep resetting. I'm guessing something is taking down the 5v, but as I was doing a quick check on stuff, there was a sudden sparking over by the audio board/fliptronics board area. Quickly turned it off, and investigated to find this on the audio board:
C26 is exploderated! Any ideas what I should be checking out next?
-Brian, off to find the correct schematics for the audio board.
That looks like a tantalum capacitor and those usually fail shorted. As it was going it probably pulled a lot of current and caused the issues were seeing until it blew and opened up. With it open it may come up again but you'll have to replace that soon before you start using the machine.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:That looks like a tantalum capacitor and those usually fail shorted. As it was going it probably pulled a lot of current and caused the issues were seeing until it blew and opened up. With it open it may come up again but you'll have to replace that soon before you start using the machine.
Yeah, I ordered new caps and they arrived today. I'll replace them and then resume troubleshooting the 5V.
-Brian
A little while ago I started working on an enhancement to the DR. Who Modern mix for the pinsound boards. One of the biggest sound-related issues with this game is that the callouts are REALLY hard to understand. The Daleks are semi-coherent but I basically can't figure out what Doc 7 is saying most of the time.
Since we are fans of the new dr. Who, and the premise of the game is that all the doctors come together I figured maybe I would start on some different callouts using better quality audio.
My intention isn't to try and reproduce the exact phrases but to use clips that reflect the same 'idea'. I'm not even close to being done, and have many more sounds in there that just didn't trigger; several events have 3 or 4 different sounds that can play. One thing I am learning is they can't be very long clips!!
I have a little K-9 up on the hang on ramp (left side) which is why you hear him say "affirmative, master" when I hit the loop. Played some of the worst games of my life trying to shoot this!
Also got the cow doctor for the first time!
Dalek topper is at the very end...
The time expander covers have been remade by Freeplay40 in this forum:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps/page/28#post-3781724
He makes excellent quality repo ramps!
Can someone get a picture of the correct apron screws that go in the front of the apron and hold it to the playfield? Those two screws are missing and I want to get the right ones. Either that or a part # for them would be great.
I found Time Expander cover decals at:
Little Shop of Games
Planetary Pinball
PinballDecals.com
Little Shop was the cheapest before shipping.
Marco and Bay Area (for some reason) was out.
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