Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!

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By HoakyPoaky

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 weeks ago by BENETNATH

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There are 1279 posts in topic. You are on page 25 of 26.
#1201 71 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Just got my doctor who playfield back from kruzman. It looks amazing! It was a NOS that never got a diamond plate coat applied.

Where the heck did you find a NOS PF???

#1202 71 days ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Where the heck did you find a NOS PF???

Planatary pinball. But Ron did alot of work to make it perfect. I'm in it alot of money.

#1203 71 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Planatary pinball. But Ron did alot of work to make it perfect. I'm in it alot of money.

When they got all the stuff from IPB, there was a good handful of rare NOS pfs available. However most of them needed some work, as was mentioned.

#1204 68 days ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

I do not.
Is the PF angle set to 6.5 degrees?
faz

Yeah, I think it's steeper than that actually. Maybe I need to play around with some different rubbers. I found this picture online and my posts are set up the same.

Found online:
IMG_6276 (resized).JPG

Mine:
IMG_5849 (resized).JPG

#1205 65 days ago

quick speaker question-- I was having some issues with sound--would work for a min then stop. Clive suggested that my speakers may be wired wrong. I think he is likely100% correct as it looks kinda thrown together. its spliced and taped, and wondering if someone didn't try to patch it together, and got it all wrong.

can someone show me a "simple" diagram of how they should be wired? (top two speakers)

I currently have two different sized speakers on the front panel, and the right one has a capacitor/choke thingie (I think) in line to it.
I am no expert, but think this mess is wired wrong. right now, I have two wires going up to two separate plugs on the sound board--kinda loose/ not bundles with the rest of the wires.

#1206 64 days ago

Hi everyone. I am considering getting a set of Titan rubbers for my Doctor Who. If anyone has them on theirs can I see some pics and some opinions of colours before I go ahead please? So many awesome colours ............
Thanks
Allison

#1207 60 days ago

Couple more pics, kruzman does great work.
NOS Doctor who playfeild.

20170122_092156.jpg

20170122_092149.jpg

20170122_092143.jpg

1485095081972-1997586314.jpg

#1208 60 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Couple more pics, kruzman does great work.
NOS Doctor who playfeild.

Nice! I picked up a NOS Doctor Who playfield made by TAG (not L.S.) from Kruzman last year, and I've been slowly putting it back together. I couldn't believe I found a NOS playfield, but my original was trashed, so I figured what the heck, and put out a wanted to buy post on Pinside, and a fellow Pinsider replied that he had one and would be willing to sell for a fair price.

The only challenges was that my playfield had no pre-drilled holes on the bottom, so Kruzman made a template of all the original holes on the bottom and transferred them over as pilot holes. It also had almost no t-nuts installed. I installed those after I got the playfield back from Kruzman. It was pretty nerve wracking to install the t-nuts in a glassy smooth newly clear coated playfield, LOL. I made a special t-nut pull fixture with a bearing, which helped greatly.

Good luck on the rebuild and installation. I'm sure it'll look awesome. I can't wait to play mine.

#1209 60 days ago
Quoted from Rum-Z:

I made a special t-nut pull fixture with a bearing, which helped greatly.

Any thread on how to make this?

#1210 60 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Any thread on how to make this?

Check out McCune's comment #22 and the link to the pics here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/installing-tee-nuts

I followed this design and instead of using a round piece of steel, i just used a larger square with a thin silicone sheet bonded to it instead of felt. I figured having a bigger foot print would help spread out the pulling forces more. It's worked great for me so far.

#1211 60 days ago
Quoted from Fairground:

I received this awesome Christmas present. Soon to be hung next to my DW

That is awesome!!!!

#1212 56 days ago

Does anyone know the differences in the repo ramps that have been available? Some better than others, or are they all made by the same person/company?

#1213 55 days ago
Quoted from scooter8416:

Does anyone know the differences in the repo ramps that have been available? Some better than others, or are they all made by the same person/company?

This is the only place that I could find them. They had 4 a couple days ago when I posted the link to a different thread. Only one set left.

http://littleshopofgames.com/product/doctor-who-ramp-set-with-flaps-decals/

#1214 55 days ago
Quoted from scooter8416:

Does anyone know the differences in the repo ramps that have been available? Some better than others, or are they all made by the same person/company?

All made by the same company.

#1215 52 days ago
Quoted from Cleatus:

quick speaker question-- I was having some issues with sound--would work for a min then stop. Clive suggested that my speakers may be wired wrong. I think he is likely100% correct as it looks kinda thrown together. its spliced and taped, and wondering if someone didn't try to patch it together, and got it all wrong.
can someone show me a "simple" diagram of how they should be wired? (top two speakers)
I currently have two different sized speakers on the front panel, and the right one has a capacitor/choke thingie (I think) in line to it.
I am no expert, but think this mess is wired wrong. right now, I have two wires going up to two separate plugs on the sound board--kinda loose/ not bundles with the rest of the wires.

UPDATE:
I ended up having a pinball repair dude come out...he went over a ton of stuff, including repairing all of the flippers, some soldering, some bumper rubbers way in back, some LEDS, and repairing a bad chip on one of the boards...etc...

anyway, he ended up reseating the sound board "cpu" and the sound is working fine. just wanted to let people know if they are having sound issues, to maybe give that a shot.

#1216 51 days ago

My left mini playfield opto seems to be stuck on causing the ball eject to keep firing. Anyone had this and found an easily fixable cause? Hate being without my Dr.

#1217 51 days ago

Did you try a switch test? Check em' all with a ball, not your finger. Checking all is important to demonstrate a matrix issue.

Be careful around the MPF with your fingers...

You will need to tape down the glass switch to get the MPF to operate.

However, I'm betting it's the twelve wire bundle. All of those wires feed the optos. If the connector is loose, the opto will not be on... just like breaking the beam.
Other things may involve pulling the opto board to check the emitter/receivers and inspect for cold solder joints.
faz

#1218 49 days ago

I am finally part of the club! Well sort of. I was able to wiggle it into the back of my Outback but now I can't get it out!

IMG_5875[1] (resized).JPG

#1219 48 days ago
Quoted from Docbeaks:

I am finally part of the club! Well sort of. I was able to wiggle it into the back of my Outback but now I can't get it out!

ha ha !! keep it up, it deserves to get out

#1220 47 days ago

Oh dear....... Your car is not a Tardis lol.

#1221 47 days ago

It's smaller on the inside?

#1222 46 days ago

Does anyone have a scan or hi-hes photo of the Escape lites video mode plastic?

Thanks
-Mike

needed plastic (resized).png

#1223 45 days ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Did you try a switch test? Check em' all with a ball, not your finger. Checking all is important to demonstrate a matrix issue.
Be careful around the MPF with your fingers...
You will need to tape down the glass switch to get the MPF to operate.
However, I'm betting it's the twelve wire bundle. All of those wires feed the optos. If the connector is loose, the opto will not be on... just like breaking the beam.
Other things may involve pulling the opto board to check the emitter/receivers and inspect for cold solder joints.
faz

All sorted with the opto. Broken opto transmitter replaced.

IMG_6565 (resized).JPG

IMG_6566 (resized).JPG

#1224 45 days ago

NICE!!! That was easy!
faz

#1225 45 days ago

Mine decided to shoot the VUK ball cup up and out yesterday. I have seen the complete part for 14, but only the plastic cup broke. DW uses a different size than the standard, anybody know where to get one? Seems the normal sources don't have it.

#1226 42 days ago

Have many DW owners installed the ColorDMD high to avoid the doctor lights? I don't care to mod my light board, but wanted to know if mounting the display high works well enough. I don't own any ColorDMD LCDs to test it out myself and I think I'd rather have LCD instead of the LED option. Just looking for opinions of anyone that has tried this. Thanks!

#1227 42 days ago

Mine is mounted high to keep the original light board (which has to be lowered slightly) and it works and looks great.

The only drawback is that you have to lower the speaker / display panel, to open the light panel and access the boards... but that is a minor gripe. I'd rather keep the original doctor panel so I can cleanly revert if I ever need or want to.

#1228 42 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Mine is mounted high to keep the original light board (which has to be lowered slightly) and it works and looks great.
The only drawback is that you have to lower the speaker / display panel, to open the light panel and access the boards... but that is a minor gripe. I'd rather keep the original doctor panel so I can cleanly revert if I ever need or want to.

Thanks for responding. I wasn't aware that I'd need to lower the original light board... I'm guessing that isn't anything more than a couple holes?

#1229 42 days ago
Quoted from cburnett11:

Have many DW owners installed the ColorDMD high to avoid the doctor lights? I don't care to mod my light board, but wanted to know if mounting the display high works well enough. I don't own any ColorDMD LCDs to test it out myself and I think I'd rather have LCD instead of the LED option. Just looking for opinions of anyone that has tried this. Thanks!

I did this to w/mod and it looks great. I like ColorDMD as a mod for DW better than the moving Dalek head (got that too). It makes play better as I can see the DMD... but I can't really see the moving topper.
faz

#1230 42 days ago

My VUK ball popper assembly broke a couple months ago. I never found just the plastic piece, ended up buying the assembly for $14-18 or so.

I did superglue the plastic piece back in and was able to use it like that for a while till the new one came in. Plastic broke at the weak point around the roll pin. Kept it as a spare.

#1231 40 days ago

What is a reasonable price on one which is in pretty decent condition?

#1232 40 days ago
Quoted from dnaman:

What is a reasonable price on one which is in pretty decent condition?

I'm hearing 2500 to 3k but I am having a hard time finding one in my area!

#1233 35 days ago

Hey all, I recently bought a partially working Doctor Who and I need a second opinion before I buy a new motor. The mpf won't move at all, but I can hear the motor working during startup so I've gone and opened the gearbox. I need some opinions on these pics. Hopefully they show well enough on the forum to see what I see. The teeth for the bottom gear should come in contact with the small circle of teeth on the gear above it, but they don't. The teeth for bottom gear sit just under the small set of teeth of the upper gear.

It looks to me like the teeth on the upper gear are supposed to be longer and extend down to the body of the gear, and therefore this setup is toast and time for a new motor assembly, right?

20170216_134757 (resized).jpg

20170216_134739 (resized).jpg

#1234 35 days ago

There's a few things about your gear box that don't seem happy.

1) The gear seems completely ground out. Notice how there's a lip on the gear... not supposed to bet there (arrow).
TopGearGround (resized).JPG
2) The slurry of grease appears to have metal filings mixed in. I think that's the rest of that missing gear.
3) The big gear with the drive arbor does not come off the top of the box (at least I could not get mine off). It's like it's pressed into a bearing. The fact that it came off suggests that the bearing was shot, the arbor started wobbling and that angular motion trashed the softer of the two gears.

Was the gearbox sealed with brass tubular rivet or was it held together with a nut/bolt.

Here's a few pics I took of a box I keep for just such an emergency. Notice the shape of that top gear... it's solid. No lip and the slurry I have is pure grease.

20170216_170733 (resized).jpg
20170216_170747 (resized).jpg
20170216_170826 (resized).jpg

I think you are needing a new gearbox. But keep all the parts... you never know.
faz

#1235 35 days ago

I'm having the same issue, my motor is probably burned up. My gears all turn fine, and do need some torque to do it. (My big gear comes out no problem from the gear box, btw.)

Any ideas on how to check if the motor is indeed shot? It looks like BAA has the motor (i think. They show two, and one is out of stock.)

#1236 35 days ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

I'm having the same issue, my motor is probably burned up.

The motor or the gearbox?

I have a test procedure somewhere... let me find it.
faz

EDIT: Found it!
Check the gear box output first. Put on a pair of leather garden gloves and try to pinch the moving gear. If it spins solidly against the leather things should be good. A broken gear would rotate 14 times a minute or about every 4 seconds. If the gear ever stops moving/stutters, you have a break in the system.

Check the motor next. It unscrews off the gear box. Do the same thing with the gloves, see if the motor spins solidly.

If the gear box is the culprit, you have nothing to lose...drill the rivets and get a look inside. Could be a broken tooth or it could be a broken gear shaft. If it's a broken tooth, I've heard of people swapping gears from other boxes, but honestly, I think I'd buy a new gearbox/motor for that. I did see a neat trick for fixing a broken gear shaft. They replaced the shaft with the shaft of a drill bit...cut to length and the fix held.

#1237 35 days ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

The motor or the gearbox?
I have a test procedure somewhere... let me find it.
faz
EDIT: Found it!
Check the gear box output first. Put on a pair of leather garden gloves and try to pinch the moving gear. If it spins solidly against the leather things should be good. A broken gear would rotate 14 times a minute or about every 4 seconds. If the gear ever stops moving/stutters, you have a break in the system.
Check the motor next. It unscrews off the gear box. Do the same thing with the gloves, see if the motor spins solidly.
If the gear box is the culprit, you have nothing to lose...drill the rivets and get a look inside. Could be a broken tooth or it could be a broken gear shaft. If it's a broken tooth, I've heard of people swapping gears from other boxes, but honestly, I think I'd buy a new gearbox/motor for that. I did see a neat trick for fixing a broken gear shaft. They replaced the shaft with the shaft of a drill bit...cut to length and the fix held.

Just the motor. Gearbox is apart, as soon as my kid goes down I'm gonna throw it all in my ultrasonic cleaner, then dry it and re grease. Try the motor then too. A buddy recommended something called powershot. He uses it in his rc car motors. Any idea if the motor is brushless or not?

#1238 35 days ago

I've never cracked open the motor before. I have never had reports of the motor itself failing.

Are you sure it's the motor and not the gear on the motor's arbor? I believe the gear is pressure fit onto the motor shaft. I've seen those tiny gears either break the hold on the shaft or the gear actually split... again, so it's loose. Either of these conditions would allow the motor to turn the gear box under low torque but when more weight comes into play... no deal.
faz

#1239 35 days ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

I've never cracked open the motor before. I have never had reports of the motor itself failing.
Are you sure it's the motor and not the gear on the motor's arbor? I believe the gear is pressure fit onto the motor shaft. I've seen those tiny gears either break the hold on the shaft or the gear actually split... again, so it's loose. Either of these conditions would allow the motor to turn the gear box under low torque but when more weight comes into play... no deal.
faz

Positive. The arbor gear is already welded solid. The motor is pretty weak, I can stop it easily with leather gloves.

#1240 35 days ago

Wow! And you have 20V going to the motor??
faz

#1241 35 days ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Wow! And you have 20V going to the motor??
faz

Yup. To be fair my DW was a reimport basket case. Lots of rust, hacks, etc...I should have just replaced the motor to begin with.

#1242 35 days ago

I'm really curious to see what the state of the motor is; the catalyst for a motor loss of power. Gotta be the brushes like you hinted. Replace for sure but it would be fun to diagnose.

I don't think you can just get the motor though.. I've only seen the motor/gearbox set.
Maybe Steve at PBR...
faz

#1243 35 days ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

I'm really curious to see what the state of the motor is; the catalyst for a motor loss of power. Gotta be the brushes like you hinted. Replace for sure but it would be fun to diagnose.
I don't think you can just get the motor though.. I've only seen the motor/gearbox set.
Maybe Steve at PBR...
faz

BAA had the motor for 30 bucks, so I ordered one. See how it plays out!

#1244 35 days ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

There's a few things about your gear box that don't seem happy.
1) The gear seems completely ground out. Notice how there's a lip on the gear... not supposed to bet there (arrow).

2) The slurry of grease appears to have metal filings mixed in. I think that's the rest of that missing gear.
3) The big gear with the drive arbor does not come off the top of the box (at least I could not get mine off). It's like it's pressed into a bearing. The fact that it came off suggests that the bearing was shot, the arbor started wobbling and that angular motion trashed the softer of the two gears.
Was the gearbox sealed with brass tubular rivet or was it held together with a nut/bolt.
Here's a few pics I took of a box I keep for just such an emergency. Notice the shape of that top gear... it's solid. No lip and the slurry I have is pure grease.

I think you are needing a new gearbox. But keep all the parts... you never know.
faz

Well that's a bummer, thanks for taking a look. Ordering a new motor/gearbox tomorrow. To answer your question, the gearbox was held together with 4 machine screws.

#1245 34 days ago
Quoted from CryHavoc:

Well that's a bummer, thanks for taking a look. Ordering a new motor/gearbox tomorrow. To answer your question, the gearbox was held together with 4 machine screws.

That's what I thought. Looks like a repair was attempted... perhaps they found a replacement gear or fabricated one by hand. Either way the gear disintegrated because it was a lesser material. You will be so much happier with a new gearbox... and you'll have some spare gears and a motor... because evidently they can fail too (sorry Brian).
faz

#1246 34 days ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

That's what I thought. Looks like a repair was attempted... perhaps they found a replacement gear or fabricated one by hand. Either way the gear disintegrated because it was a lesser material. You will be so much happier with a new gearbox... and you'll have some spare gears and a motor... because evidently they can fail too (sorry Brian).
faz

It's only the 2nd time I've had a motor fail. 1sr was on my FH, and that was an abused routed game too

#1247 34 days ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

that was an abused routed game too

Poor Rudy
faz

#1248 29 days ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Poor Rudy
faz

As a follow up, the motor arrived and until I can find a place (or figure out) to raise the gear up on the shaft, it won't work. The gear is pressed on the shaft almost all the way down, instead of at the very end. So even though it is listed as being able to work with DW, it won't without some finagling of the gear.

#1249 29 days ago

Hi folks-

I am considering joining the club - I was wondering what types of mods are available, other than the Dalek topper? Anything? I want to rework the game to include some of the more current doctors with a new transpire and (maybe) updated cabinet decals. Figuring I'll have to go solo for those, I'll find a place to print them up. Has anyone added a Tardis mod? Seems like it's kind of wasted on the play field

#1250 29 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Hi folks-
I am considering joining the club - I was wondering what types of mods are available, other than the Dalek topper? Anything? I want to rework the game to include some of the more current doctors with a new transpire and (maybe) updated cabinet decals. Figuring I'll have to go solo for those, I'll find a place to print them up. Has anyone added a Tardis mod? Seems like it's kind of wasted on the play field

A few people (including myself) have done nice upgrades to the TARDIS on the wireform on the right side (I did a how-to post for a version a while back). There's also some really nice upgrades to the 3rd Doctor's Whomobile on the ramps available from Shapeways (mentioned up thread, I believe). The ColorDMD is a must-have, in my opinion. I also have the moving Dalek kit.

Other than that, there's not much else room on the playfield for mods without just putting random toys on there. I've always thought a nice K9 mod would be cool (something interactive) but I've not tackled it. I'm also disappointed that the guy who makes the LCD TV screen mods never did a Doctor who version, I always thought a mod that changed the intros from the show to match what Doctor was activated would be kick ass.

With regard to a Translite update, there's one listed periodically on ebay but I've been meh about it. Something in the concept of the original (with all the Doctors) but including the NuWho run would be cool.

In my wildest dreams, I'd LOVE to get together a group to commission Andrew Skilleter to do a design; he does a LOT of Who work (http://andrewskilleter.com/doctor-who/)

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