Doctor Who
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Just joined the Club!
My game will be here in 10 days, Im so excited!
Now, for improvements: do I get the colorDMD in LCD or LED.....
Does anyone sell a doctors led strip for the colorDMD mod (Like the IJ and TAF ones...) or do I have to actually do some work and modify the existing, ugh... ! lol
I need to re-decal the cabinet touch up a bit, cliffy's etc.
Now, about alternative translites? What seems the best?
Quoted from pinball_faz:I did not even know there was a colorDMD LED. I have the LCD version and it's AWESOME! Really adds a lot to the game. Do the strip yourself... it's easy. The hardest thing to do is finding some fine wire. I cut up a CAT5 cable... worked great.
faz
I have a box of cat5 lol
What color/source for the LED's if I go that route.
The LED version of the colorDMD is smaller and fits better with the existing light bar I guess?
My only question is:
does the LED version look too bright. The game already has some sort of LED upgrade on it. I bought it sight unseen, so I imagine a bit of work to do on this.
The LCD version has high res? I have the LCD version on my ToM and I really like it.
People say the LED is much brighter. But is it too bright? Id have to see them side by side I guess.
does the LED version not have the high res?
I know. so many questions... lol.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Get the LED one. Direct install, it still looks great, very bright. No need to fool with the doctor lights at all
Yay! Ok that answers that, other than the reliablilty of LEDs. But I can tackle that later if I have the energy...
So It looks like people prefer the colorDMD LCD for the most part:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-led-vs-lcd-poll
Still though you cant beat the clean installation of the LED version, and its cheaper.
Im still on the fence but oddly swaying towards the LED version due to absolute laziness... lol
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:This is what the LED looks like installed (make sure it’s HD when you play)
I really like the bright colors, I'm sold!
Now where do I get that translite.
awesome!
I know there are several out there but I really liked the interaction with the lights.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Took me a while to find; I didn’t like the other alternatives - I believe I found it on EBay UK.. ill see if I can find a link
I've seen a few of them now and nothing made me buy it now lol.
But I really like the one you had.
Way cool.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:that's it! the first one. By the way, it came and was slightly too large for the translite glass - you will need to cut it. Make sure you measure several times off of the original translite - I cut mine a bit too small and had a hard time fixing it to the glass with the little translite clips; had to get it just right. be careful! The material isnt' as thick as a real translite, but the colors are good, and you can't tell once installed.
Did you have the interactive lighting kit installed?
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Painting Dr. Who coin door and other pieces in Oxford blue. Turned out better than I hoped. Will look better than standard black coin door, in my opinion.
Ken
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Are you doing blue armor and legs too?
Quoted from ArcadeTechNerd:Well... I suppose it depends in part on if you really want some of the optional video modes that the LCD version offers.
When I was trying to make up my mind on the LED/LCD issue I was struggling until I got to see a couple of machines next to each other, one with LED one with LCD. Decision made! The LED unit just "felt" right. Something about the physical pixel appearance vs. the LCD drawing them in. And I suppose it could be more than a little dependent on the particular machine. Doctor Who has more of a "classic" vibe to it, so going with a more "classic" if colorized display just made sense to me.
The size issues are obviously a consideration with the LCD version on things liek Doctor Who, Addams Family, etc... But I leave that one up to you and what you are comfortable with doing to your machine. I always try to err on the side of completely and (reasonably) simple rollbacks if/when the need arises.
I've had the ColorDMD LED unit in my Doctor Who for a couple of years now and have never questioned the choice.
YMMV! (obviously)
I agree with you on this.
Doctor Who is sort of a retro, rough and tumble, kinda game.
Smoothing the display may not fit the feel of it.
I put the LCD version on my ToM and and am using the smooth font. It matches the game IMHO...
I heavily swayed towards the LED for this title.
Its bright. I has dots. It looks great. Its way easier to install.
Pretty much sold on it.
Now...What Alt translite to get.
Again Im swayed towards the one Rdoyle used. It looks really perfect and totally modernizes the game
Pretty inexpensive on Ebay right now.
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Finally took the time to service my Who and set up the Leds, blades, new rubbers and some stuff I made for it.
Quite happy with the overall look.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That playfield looks great!
I really like the side blades on these games.
It really modernizes them a lot with the colorDMD and alt translite.
Does anyone make a back board decal to go with the blades?
Seems unfinished without it.
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Not that I know of.
Thought about the color DMD but decided against it, too expensive for a small improvement on Dr Who imo.
Alt translite will come when my brother visits from NYC; seller would only ship within the US.
I ordered the LED colorDMD.
It seemed to me, to match the game better after LED's were put in the playfield.
But it does seem odd that no one has offered a back board decal.
Quoted from yellowghost:To anybody with a old left ramp, would you part with the old decals.
Thanks
Just joined the club!
Game is kinda rough but has a pretty good playfield.
Issue #1 no power to upper left flipper. Fuse is good, 74v to both sides of f901 and it ohms out, looks new.
No 74v on any leg of the coil lugs.
No power at j902 pins 1 or 3.
The other pairs in j902 have 74v
My cabinet flipper opto boards only have one opto.
The manual list it as a 2 opto flipper board but it's not. I dont even think it's necessary to use dual opto flipper boards in this game.
Issue #2
Time expander barely works.
Lots of Opto errors in test and it raises but has trouble lowering.
Time to completely rebuild ! Lol
Other than those 3 issues, the game is complete!
I'm really looking forward to getting it up and running.
Quoted from gunstarhero:How weird.
Mine had the flipper optos totally removed and replaced with leaf switches!
It works fine so I haven’t messed with it tho.
You can do this, I think operators pulled them out due to lack of parts and direct wired them lol.
In my case it might be an early version or it was retrofitted to an earlier version for lack of parts.
It all works the same IMHO...
Slings fixed!
1/4" gap on the leaf switches lol
They look pretty nasty so I'm ordering replacements.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Cheap OP fix for routed games. My re import had leaf switches, I took them back to optos.
Your whomobile decals look great !
How can I get one or 2?
also does anyone have the decal sets for doctor who any more?
There used to be a 31 piece set.
Has anyone reproduced these?
My decals look curly and sad.
Im shopping out this game after the repairs and might do a total resto on it if I can get the supplies and parts.
I think Im just going to shotgun the fliptronics 2...
If the tip 36 is bad it specifically interferes with the ground unless its shorted on.
This would give me no voltage at the flipper coil and no voltage at the connector but 74v at the fuse.
I do have 74v at the fuse.
The coils definitely have seen better days. Probably locked on and burnt the tip 36 after the diode failed...
Replacing a tip36 and the tip102 near it is easy enough.
I might even have a coil with new diodes,
Any other ideas?
Ill work on it some more on monday.
I'm looking for that 31 piece decal sheet that is out of stock for years...
If you have one, I can have it copied in vinyl.
PM me
Quoted from pinballinreno:I think Im just going to shotgun the fliptronics 2...
If the tip 36 is bad it specifically interferes with the ground unless its shorted on.
This would give me no voltage at the flipper coil and no voltage at the connector but 74v at the fuse.
I do have 74v at the fuse.
The coils definitely have seen better days. Probably locked on and burnt the tip 36 after the diode failed...
Replacing a tip36 and the tip102 near it is easy enough.
I might even have a coil with new diodes,
Any other ideas?
Ill work on it some more on monday.
Upper flipper fixed!
Seems that a bit of creative wiring was done. It's all back to factory now.
Found a pinched and cut wire for the flipper switch under the CPU board...
Replaced q1 tip36, q6 tip102, q5 tip102.
Reflowed fuse holders.
Reflowed pins on fliptronic board.
Reseated all the IDC connectors but I think I'll just replace them later during the restore process.
So upper flipper lives ! Lol.
It had the wrong coil but I cant complain too much right now.
Next..
My time expander it really a piece of crap.
Tomorrow I'm pulling it out and rebuilding it using Faz's guide.
Wish me luck lol.
If you have any pointers let me know!
Quoted from opt_prime:I did loosen those 4 screws and made an attempt to install it without removing the entire MPF. I did review your excellent guide but still felt intimidated by the process. I looked at the Cliffy guidance and it said to just loosen those 4 screws, so I was HOPING that would work.
You have 2 choices.
Sand the front edge of the MPF about 1/20"
Or
Move the entire time expander back a little to increase the gap.
The mounts might have to have the holes slightly elongated.
Removal is pretty easy.
Quoted from opt_prime:Pardon my ignorance, but aren't those the solutions for situations where the assembly is rubbing up against each other when it goes up and down? I think if I sanded the front edge, the gap between the Edge Protector and the MPF would be even worse, I suspect. I hope I'm conveying the problem correctly.
Adjusting the mounting holes in the bracket will give you some flexibility on reinstallation to make it perfect.
Washers installed to adjust the height etc.
I'm replacing my time expander mini playfield.
Should I add the mylar to it like the factory?
I'm inclined to believe that since it's a very busy area that it may be necessary.
Has anyone else added it to theirs?
Does anyone gave a pre-cut piece?
I'm about to reassemble my MPF.
I'm cutting a new mylar for the new MPF blank from CPR, I'm cutting off 1/8" off the front as required.
I'm using 3mil mylar same as factory.
What LEDs work the best for this? Frosted, flat top, colors etc...
Also what about led flashers, are they just too bright?
I'm going to install a full led kit in my game.
One thing, if you dont have a sonic cleaner...get one.
OMG, I mean the parts come out like brand new with no polishing.
I'm saving the polishing for the upper playfield parts.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Depends what you are going for. I found the color LEDs didn’t matter much since they are mostly behind all that plastic. Frosted is better IMO
Get one of the 5SMD Comet tower flashers, they actually give off a bit less light and fill the whole red dome with light, instead of a very intense hotspot. The regular LED flashers are a bit bright
Make sure you compare the MPF holes to the old one - a lot of the reproduction ones out there are not exact
I watched the video of the french guy dealing with the CPR MPF.
I think I have the same one. I can make it work. Mine is so worn that the front corners have very little wood left.
My MPF is missing a variety of parts on the top but I think I have it all resolved.
My expander cover was taped in place due to missing/stripped out posts etc.
But the whole assembly didnt work anyway so I guess it didn't matrer!
William's was no help in the manual with their huge list of parts not shown lol.
Basically my game is very rough but the playfied is pretty good and the back box boards are untouched.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:did you get one of the upgraded expander covers? Totally worth the purchase. I'd love to get that decal redesigned too. the thing is so ugly! haha
I'm working on the shield and whomobile decals.
My shield is pretty bent up but I think I can straighten it.
I bought the new time expander cover and decals for it.
My goal right now is to get the game functioning and then rip it apart for a complete restoration.
The MPF is more than half the work as always...
Quoted from gunstarhero:My game isn’t accessible right now but... it’s supposed to go up the plastic wire tube and into the backbox, but it’s really tight when you fold down the head. There is a plug but it’s a pain to get to. My switch is already disabled, I might just relocate it .
I'll probably make a nice cable out of shrink and hook it somewhere.
I do like the disabling of the switch idea a lot, lol.
I might just tie the wires together and stuff it behind the backboard for now!
Quoted from eyeamred2u:That is the playfield glass switch and goes into the lower cabinet. There are a few holes under the left plastic that it can be re routed.[quoted image]
I see that it can be a problem when raising and lowering the playfield if there isn't enough slack.
Thanks!
2 of 4 sections done on my time expander
New motor and gearbox.
My gearbox was totally stripped out and had been repaired many times from the look of it.
New bracket from marco.
It was a bit rough and bent.
Bending, filing, sanding and 3 hours of rework made it work.
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I bought new rollers from marco. They were very rusty, but the proper thickness. I'm not sure they were worth the money lol.
2 hours of sonic cleaning and scrubbing fixed them.
These are new out of the bag.
20190524_103353 (resized).jpg
The old ones looked better but are worn out.
I cant recommend replacing these parts unless you have a workshop with a big sonic cleaner, vice, sander, grinder etc...
But my bracket had 1/16" grooves cut on both sides and the rollers were very thin from abuse, so unfortunately they had to be replaced.
There was so much slop it couldn't help but go sideways and bind up.
Runs smooth and perfect now.
My workstation has a 0-15v DC outlet on it. Very handy for testing motors and leds on the fly. I highly recommend it.
I added nylon washers to the opto emitter board. The optos were hitting the switch interupters.
I need to cut a shroud for my optos.
Does anyone have a template?
It's not critical, I can cut one out of heavy paper.
Can I plug the opto box into the game and test it?
I'll see if it works.
Next I have to rework the new mini playfield and take the ball dents out of the lower scoop assembly.
The mini posts on the lower scoop are almost worn in half lol.
I had to find the part number for them off the IPDB parts list (BOM), fortunately marco had them.
My game has seen a lot of action and silly operator hacks, but the playfied is really nice!
Quoted from dsuperbee:That cable does NOT go through the pf. It should just go straight back.
thanks!
can someone post a picture of how the whomibile, switch, clear plastic is assembled on the right side above the wireform?
I have the ramp but the switch seems too high as its installed wrong. It has to be bent down a lot for the ball to hit it.
I ordered the plastic and new ramps from marco and a whomobile from swinks.
Im just am not clear on how the corner is assembled.
Im working on decals.
Quoted from swinks:I noticed a guest purchased some whomobiles recently - just hope you got the mod ones as I have various types there. If so contact Shapeways to see if you can halt the order and swap with the correct ones????
As for the switch under the whomobile you might get some ideas from my mod manual.[quoted image]
Yes that was me!
I couldn't remember my password or login for the site, it had been awhile. Lol
I bought the regular ones.
I was just looking for one to replace my missing one on the right for the "factory" look. No one seems to have them any more.
I think the nylon can be dyed black with Rit dye. I have had good results on nylon in the past. We'll see.
Same with the mushroom buttons, thanks for offering them.
I think I can dye them gray:
https://www.amazon.com/Rit-DyeMore-Advanced-Polyester-Acrylic/dp/B00U2IXJ94
however really like the new whomobile you designed.
I can change them out later if I want to paint them up.
Quoted from yellowghost:Or one of those grey rubber caps.
Speaking of which, need to order them....
What is the part number for them...
got it from the IPDB parts list:
1385 ...4 20-9672 switch protect cover 1
1386 ...4 01-10636 clip-switch cover 1
marco has them, ordered!
Mini playfield shortened 2mm.
Mylar applied.
I bought some of the 5" wide 3mil from marco. It's really perfect. Exactly like the factory mylar.
No one else has it right now
I made a paper template from my original, then cut a plywood template out of 1/8" hobby plywood.
Cut it on a self repairing mat.
New exacto blades are a must but there are still problems.
I'm going to get a burning tool and a piece of glass for future mylars.
IMG_20190531_194017_01 (resized).jpgIMG_20190531_194017_02 (resized).jpg
I cannot praise rapid-tac enough.
It really is the best!
No soapy residue under the mylar.
No windex killing the glue.
20 mins or more work time.
Its amazing stuff.
I'll use it for everything from now on.
It actually makes the work stick better and makes mylar clear. Like a factory application.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I would have elongated the bracket holes before I cut the MPF, especially if it was the original MPF.
It's a CPR silver repro.
They are oddly a little long on the front edge.
I wanted to have the holes better line up without reworking more stuff.
It's only like a 1 8mm difference.
It's a quick and easy adjustment on my sander.
I literally took less than a minute.
Plus I wanted to true up the edge a little for the cliffy install later on.
They take up 1mm.
I might still have to rework the bracket for this.
We'll see in a couple days.
The mylar installation took me 1 hour. Lol
Quoted from gunstarhero:Looks good dude!
I need to pull my Time Expander out soon and give it a little tune up.
Thanks!
The repro mini playfields dont come with mylar.
I think in this case it's very necessary.
Lots of bouncing, ball ejects and traffic there.
I have never seen the time expander work lol.
It was missing quite a few parts and basically taped together and disabled with a stripped gearbox.
I'm getting close to final assembly !
Maybe it will rise and work the first try?
Next we will see if the wiring in the cabinet has been hacked up lol.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Mine was a hack job too. I repinned so many connectors and bought many new parts,so I feel the pain
The biggest annoyance is finding unnecessarily broken parts, or wrong parts utilized in badly done hacks, deep in the machine.
This results on daily marco orders that waste tons of time waiting for deliveries lol.
A 2 day job takes a month.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Buy an Arbor Press, works better
I have one, this was just at hand since I'm drilling the missing holes in it.
I have also installed ramp rivets on big items that dont fit in the little arbor press with my drill press using the Hanson hand rivet tool and a lower die made out of a ground out leg bolt.
I can get 500 psi on the drill press without pulling too hard.
Its handy for pushing out roll pins and such. I just chuck up a drift etc. Dont even need a drill vice for most things.
I often chuck up router and dremel bits to do freehand edgework.
It makes a great inverted router table in a pinch.
A drill press can be much more than just a drill motor.
I used to be a machinist, so finding how to use tools to their full capacity is how it's done lol
Finally finished the time expander.
Quite a job with the repro mini playfield and new internal bracket assembly as well as rusted rollers
Only 19 holes were left undrilled from CPR.
Probably for the best as really you want to hand fit the parts on reassembly.
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All parts polished and corrosion controlled
I installed the flex dual leds in the flashing lock inserts.
Tested them and they look really good compared to a 2smd in the same place.
New bulb sockets, coil plungers and opto's throughout.
New standup target and decal.
Mostly all new screws and hardware as well as new bumper posts.
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New 2smd sunlight bulbs for the 3 GI bulbs.
I ran it outside the game at 10 volts and it runs smoothly without hesitation.
Now I can go back to shopping out the game and repairing the many broken an missing parts.
I think it will only take a day or 2.
Then maybe play a game!
After the game is repaired and complete, I'll pull it apart for the playfield clearing and cabinet restoration.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Since the pinsound was mentioned are you using the original pinsound or the pinsound+ ?
With the pinsound installed can you keep the original soundtrack for Dr Who in addition to the new mixes? How to switch between?
Pinsound÷ full kit etc.
I haven't installed it yet, I'm still building the game.
Hopefully I'll get it shopped out more this week and see what other mysterious hacks were done.
I just found its missing all the white spool spacers around the time expander. Fortunately I have a few.
I also have to peel off all of the time expander shield decals without tearing them for reference.
I'm thinking if remaking the speaker panel with the last 7 doctors on it instead of the 1st 7.
Also replacing the call outs etc to match.
Has anyone already done this?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I've done the callouts. I tried to recreate a newer story involving the Master and the Daleks/Davros. Callouts still seem relevant to the game, but it sounds SOOOO much better.
Have not done the plastic; that's a great idea!
This is good news! Did you share it on the pinsound site?
I'd like to hear it.
It also loose and held on with stripped out sheet metal screws. Lol
I imagine the switch is supposed to be mounted with screws, washers and keps nuts like all other bally stuff.
I'll fix that but the extreme reach of the actuator looks off to me.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:No, It is 2 #6-32 machine screws and nuts. Then the whomobile goes over it and screwed in.
Thanks!
How does the switch look?
So the whomobile uses the front most screw holes and just rides the other screw heads.
The whomobile does not completely encase or cover the screw heads, just the switch and switch mount?
I bought the ramp set off marco.
The big left ramp did not include the opto bracket, so I'll have to clean it and move it over.
The subway ramp came bare.
Tons of riveting there.
They do sell a populated one, but I font think I need it.
My existing is in really good shape. I'll just replace the switches and reuse it.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Panhead screws
In the photo it looks like #6 or #8 pan head sheet metal screws hold on the whomobile on.
Thanks!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:a LOT of them have that same gouge. Only thing you can really do is re-mount or shave down that gate. Maybe some felt?
I think I can bend it in and move it in 1/8" more, but it's a deadly danger. Just like on my houdini.
Just have to use blade protectors after the cab is redone.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Don't bend it. Lift the playfield up and loosen the screws and move it inward. problem solved.
Yeah. I'll elongate the holes.
It's in the tumbler now for 2 days...
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Try bending it slightly in. I think it’s the wire that causes the damage.
My DW is in Ohio right now. Man, wth, do we have the same exact collection? Lol
It's definitely the wire hanging out the side.
Stripped the topside of the playfield tonight.
I wish I could get plastics...
Most of them are ok, but new repros would be awesome.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:a LOT of them have that same gouge. Only thing you can really do is re-mount or shave down that gate. Maybe some felt?
Maybe leave the gouge in place and decorate around it!
Quoted from rgb635:Not sure if Cliffy has made hole protectors specifically for the Dr. Who Time Expander but I was able to use the Cliffy kick out hole protector for Williams "High Speed" with hardly any modifications.
Kevlar rings come in the kit for the time expander.
I'm leaving them off for now.
Curiously there are no shooter lane protectors in my full kit.
Should I contact cliff? Or are they separate? I paid $104 for the kit.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:They are carbon fiber, not kevlar. Carbon fiber holds up better. I spoke directly to Cliffy on why he is changing to carbon fiber.
Yeah, the thin metal gets bent up pretty badly in time.
The time expander rings are easy to get to. So I can add them later if wear starts showing.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:a LOT of them have that same gouge. Only thing you can really do is re-mount or shave down that gate. Maybe some felt?
I think I found the gouge problem source.
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The upper right is very low.
So it sits crooked and tilted to the right.
I ordered new pivot nuts and playfield mounts.
If it's still not level, I can add a shim or fender washers under the right mount.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:A common problem. Shims are recommended. I had to add them to my game. Almost a half inch. Prior user removed pivot bolts and ruined the hole.
My bolts look worn out but still tight in the cabinet at least lol.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:My bolts were tight, but when the playfield was down, I was able to lift up and close up the gap, which was odd to me. So installed new pivot nuts and bolt and still the same gap. Therefore, Shims under the pivot nut bracket. If you do put washers or some hime made shims, it is best to have a helper. I fabricated my shims so they would slide over the machine screws.
Thanks!
I really like the slotted shim idea a lot.
It looks like I need at least 1/4" or more.
I'm waiting for brackets and pivot nuts from marco right now.
I'll report back when I get it sorted out.
Doing a full tear down.
Full restoration in process.
Pulled all the backbox boards.
It's the gift that keeps on giving.
Gorillas with blowtorches shouldn't work on electronics:
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Of the 5 boards 3 are perfect.
Driver and audio have some issues. Lol
I already sent them to Chris Hibler for testing and repair.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Wow that is pretty rough looking. I have a working DW sound board if you don’t want to wait for Hibler
Thanks!
I might take you up on it but, its gonna be awhile before this tardis flies again. Lol
It looks like the guy I bought it from put all the bad parts from 8 different games in my game.
I think I can get it running in a few weeks.
Clearing the playfield next week and maybe start on the cabinet.
I really want to know what's going on with the crooked angled playfield.
It's still a mystery!
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Looks good, but the door needs to be blue. Here is my door painted blue.[quoted image]
I really like that color!
What color blue is it?
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Hi
Maybe a fellow Doctor Who owner can relate or guide me
I have an intermittent issue on my DW
Issue:
I lock 1 ball in either R L eject hole
The game will load 1 ball and Auto Launch and then the 3rd ball into shooter lane
I have already replaced all the trough switches and shooter lane switch with new plus all new diodes
Still have the issue
I’ll also me mention that sw 71 the right most opto on MPF is stuck closed right now but per the Sw Matrix have nothing in common anywhere on the grid
Any ideas what to check ?
I was told check the obvious so I did and replaced what seemed to be the most logical but that didn’t fix the issue
Thanks in advance
I enjoy the game but want it properly working
Why is the opto 71 closed?
Debris?
Bad opto?
Broken shorted wire?
Bad controller board?
Trade sides with the other opto, does the problem move?
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Oxford Blue
I'm thinking of doing the siderails and lockdown bar in oxford (tardis) blue.
Too much?
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I say yes, The chrome balances the game, but if you have old pieces, give it a try. I did the coin door, bilt head and head plates to cabinet in blue
I'm thinking basic satin black siderails and lockdown bar.
It matches the head trim and makes the colors pop a bit.
So, black trim?
Satin or gloss?
I think the stainless looks cheap.
Chrome is good but maybe black is better?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:If you do black, it has to be gloss, otherwise it just looks like paint. Actual chrome wouldn’t look half bad - but I don’t know if it’s the perfect thing for this game. I’ve reached out to a couple of powder coaters about doing sort of a “racing stripe” thing on the lock bars and legs. Mainly oxford blue (a touch darker actually) and a deep red stripe. It would definitely make the game pop!
Yes, a dark matching blue with black and light silver metal flake?
I saw a sample of cosmic metal flake. Looked really good like galaxy washed denim.
The hardest part is getting the right blue color.
Quoted from yellowghost:Anybody needing new slingshot kicker plastics, the ones on the marco website are washed out and look terrible. However I put a blue and ice blue GI bulbs underneath and it looks sorta presentable but wish somebody sold a better product.[quoted image]
Little shop of games had some NOS. I bought a pair, they look ok to me.
They also had nos standup target stickers.
Now, where to get the standups A-15330-4 and the little single one on the right?
The time expander red standup is not available do I got a couple regular ones and modified the bottom a bit. Seems to work for now.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Marco sells the single standup sticker on the right. I bought some NOS left standup stickers off Ebay, they are really nice.
Thanks!
I got the stickers but was thinking of replacing all of the standup target switches themselves, mine are pretty beat.
After 27 years of battling daleks, sling switches get replaced:
20190622_113708 (resized).jpg20190622_113747 (resized).jpg
They were riveted on, and I could re-rivet them, but all the new games use screws now.
Plus they charge a lot more for a switch riveted onto a bracket that has the side tab on the wrong side.
Easy enough to flip it over on just the switch.
20190622_122649 (resized).jpg20190622_131302 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:Rit dye tests on shapeways 3d printed parts:
Rit liquid dye in black.
I put white pop bumper bodies in the dye to see if the 3d parts absorb the same.
They dont.
Soaked for 1 hour at 180 degrees[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I actually like the color.
I can paint them with satin krylon if I change my mind.
The dyed plastic wont show chips or scratches.
I soaked some mushroom buttons in frost gray dye more for synthetics.
It was way more effective than the regular rit dye.
They came out darker than I anticipated after only 10 mins, 3 might have done it.
But I can soak them on chlorine bleach to lighten them.
I kinda like them this color for now.
20190623_191719 (resized).jpg20190623_193905 (resized).jpg
20190623_191808 (resized).jpgI'm absolutely sure that with a little effort one could get the exact shade of gray they wanted with the dye.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Not bad! I am considering making them silver on my game, so they look more like the Dalek bumps
I was going for a rusted steel look, but I imagine any color could be dyed.
The dyemore takes only about 5 mins.
Back to the crooked playfield.
Cab bolts are perfect.
Pivot nuts replaced, they were worn.
Playfield mounts are replaced.
Playfield is twisted 1/2" or more.
Upper right corner is low 1/4"
The problem is that the time expander hangs behind the playfield mounts and The 3 pop bumpers hang in the upper right corner.
This has caused a bend.
The playfield is somewhat unsupported in the rear third.
I think reese rails will stiffen it up a lot.
I added a 1/8" shim under the right mounting bracket.
This lowered the left corner and raised the right corner.
The 1/4" drop of the upper right corner is solved for now.
20190625_173832 (resized).jpg20190625_173922 (resized).jpg20190625_174022 (resized).jpg
Quoted from eyeamred2u:You can see that the hole for the pivot nut and screw is worn on the inside, causing the tilt. Mine was similar and I see you used my shim idea, nice job
I was hoping that were true!
I could fix it with a dowel and re-drill it.
My inside hole is tight around the screw on both sides as it should be.
The pivot nut and screw are square to the cabinet side.
Only after measuring locations and using squares did I finally do as you suggested, add a shim.
I can possibly add a piece of 1/4" steel angle stock to firm up the twist in the playfield on the right side.
But I'm interested in whether the reese rails will do the same.
The original cardboard rails do very little on this game and have attributed to the sag in the rear.
Most notably the pop bumper area that is largely unsupported.
My cabinet is bowed about 1/8" horizontally and vertically, as well as the bottom (a tiny but cupped).
It might have been in a humid area.
I'll correct this during the cabinet restore.
Ill just sand off the material with the 6" ro sander until its flat enough.
I removed all the mylar using the freeze method today.
It took 1/4 can, sprayed a little at a time to reach optimal temperature. It worked perfectly on the diamond plated surface.
Zero paint or clearcoat loss.
Took about 20 mins.
I'm going to try rapid tac remover on this playfield to see how it works.
They promise it will remove adhesive in as little as 1 or 2 mins.
We'll see.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:You can see that the hole for the pivot nut and screw is worn on the inside,
Good call!
I see it now.
Its the cabinet side that is warped/bowed.
Also there is a ground braid pushing the nut crooked. Itt see about relocating the braid.
I'll sand it flat in any case.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Need a memeber to look at their game andnsee where connector J132 from the power driver board goes too. I am missing the entire connector. The schematic shows it goes to the back box for some insert flashers.
Thanks,
Ken
Too bad I just pulled all my harnesses, or id check it.
I remember labeling the connector...?
Does it go to the little harness on the playfield backstop right corner, there are 2 flashers there behind the big square plastic transmat sign.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Why is my playfield dragging on the cabinet sides?
This seems to be the source of the cabinet gouging.
The mounts are offset by 1/8"
[quoted image][quoted image]
The left mount is wrong.
The playfield does not hook into the lockdown reciever correctly.
I have to pull it forward on the left to get the front hangers into the slots.
So, I have to move the left bracket rearward 1/8".
Quoted from pinballinreno:The left mount is wrong.
The playfield does not hook into the lockdown reciever correctly.
I have to pull it forward on the left to get the front hangers into the slots.
So, I have to move the left bracket rearward 1/8".
Ended up moving the left bracket about 5/32".
This did 2 things.
1) The playfield now pivots smoothly and cleanly, it no longer scrapes the sides.
2) the playfield no longer has to be forced onto the front hanger slots by pushing it sideways in the front.
Doing this causes the pivot to ride the left mount more rearward, raising it higher relative to the right bracket. The bracket has a slope built into it.
Pulling the playfield forward raises its height.
This caused the playfield to be higher on the left about 1/8".
The shim I added on the right is now removed.
20190628_123117 (resized).jpg
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Glad to read you fixed yours. Helpful information.
My brackets ended up about 9 7/16" from the edge.
Next time you raise the playfield it would be interesting to know if yours or all doctor who games are out of alignment.
Rdoyle1978 has stated that a very many games are scraped on the right side. Its possible that this is an issue with a lot of them.
Mine was misaligned from the factory. It's always been canted to the right and scraped the sides it seems.
I'm scraping white wood putty out of the deep notch in the cab side, ill replace it with bondo or half time.
So, a factory f#ck up....
Quoted from swinks:Nice detective work on the play field misalignment
Thanks, it took awile since I thought it was just cabinet droop from wear.
And I had replaced all the pivot parts. It was a bit confusing but perseverence paid off.
Quoted from swinks:I think this is a great lesson for everyone as most would assume everything to be aligned
After seeing that one of the repair targets was installed way off. I got suspicious...
20190628_160325 (resized).jpg
I'll either fill the hole and re-drill it or adjust the hole in the switch mounting bracket...or both.
You gotta check every wire in every connector on a routed used game.
It's amazing what you find.
Molex pins for the mains jumper.
Solder blobbed and pressed next to a pin.
Hidden from view deep in the game.
You would never know why the power was so unstable.
Probably why the game was sold!
They couldn't find the fault in the power.
My game collapsed under the weight of all the trash repairs.
I just got my rapid tac adhesive remover from autubodynow.com
https://www.autobodynow.com/products/adhesive-remover-rapidtac-rremover4oz
They had the 4oz bottles and free shipping.
Sprayed it on, waited 60 secs.
Scraped off the 27 year old mylar adhesive off pretty much instantly with a plastic razor blade.
Followed up with the adhesive remover sprayed on a paper towel to gently rub off any last bits if glue, plus a little scrape here and there.
Cleaned off the adhesive remover with rapid tac cleaner/application fluid.
This stuff works fast and effectively.
Took 6 mins to remove all the mylar glue from my playfield.
It smells like goo gone kinda orange cleaner smell.
Goo gone did nothing to the glue.
This stuff is amazing.
Clearcoaring doctor who playfield this weekend.
1st coat down.
Filling, flattening coat tomorrow morning as well as minor keyline and black touchups.
20190704_180108 (resized).jpg20190704_180135 (resized).jpg20190704_152357 (resized).jpg
There are 2 screw punctures.
One in the doctors coat and another in a yellow line.
I might just make a black button for the coat and maybe a black triangle for the yellow.
They are tiny and really dont merit mixing and matching paint.
I can save that for the next time lol.
My $50 spray booth.
Held together with $6 worth of drop cloths and gorilla tape lol.
Ventilation would be nice. I have a box fan and hepa filter setup for bigger jobs. Not really necessary for a little piece of plywood lol.
Works surprisingly well for tiny playfield and cabinet work.
The key is a tyvek suit and proper respirator rated for auto clear.
My exposure is less than 45 mins per operation.
So, really safe.
Final clear today.
It came out pretty good.
Its mirror-like.
My sparaybooth roof diffuses the light a bit.
I'll give it a month while doing the cab and mechs.
Then we can see the die-back and final sand and buff.
I'm optimistic, it will be ok.
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With new playfields being unobtanium, it behooves us to preserve them if they can be restored a bit.
I could shop for a better game that doesn't have 2 screws carelessly plunged in the middle of the playfield, or doesnt have a warped twist in it. but it can always be fixed.
A little clearcoat and touchup does wonders. The twist is coming out with a bit of negative pressure.
I keep hearing the words of lieutenant Razak from Starship troopers.
"Hold onto what you got!"
Makes sense to me, I'll do my best lieutenant...
Quoted from gunstarhero:That’s gonna be nice. My DW has a clear coated PF and it’s a beauty. Wish the rest of the game was as nice!
Cab work isn't too bad.
I'll post some pics while I do it.
My cab has a collapsed leg and stripped out leg plates.
Plus one corner is loose and needs gluing and repinning.
Also some big gashes in it.
Nothing a little bondo and half-time cant handle.
Cabinet work started.
Its 1/8" out of square.
Probably ok.
Front corner was blown out.
The other corners are surprisingly tight.
A little glue and a few clamps.
The ryobi brad nailer for $99 works perfectly. 2" brads for the sides, 1" for the blocks.
A little bondo to fill voids.
Used a skill saw to cut gussets out or a piece of 2x4.
Sanded them to shape on a belt sander.
20190709_190813 (resized).jpg20190709_190818 (resized).jpg20190709_190827 (resized).jpg
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Are you just using the wood block in the corner or are you adding a metal leg bracket?
I'm upgrading all the leg brackets to the newer heavier williams ones.
Cabinet work begins.
Lots if voids in the plywood.
20190711_091527 (resized).jpg
Will have to cut new skids lol.
20190711_091552 (resized).jpg
The rigid 6" sander is adequate for the decal removal. 60 grit is pretty effective with shop-vac attached.
Cant beat a dust free sander.
20190711_091506 (resized).jpg
Quoted from pinballjah:The Doctor Who Rush remix for Pinsound is now showing on the community website. If anyone wants to give it a try. Thanks.
http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/279-pinballjah-doctor-who-rush-remix/
Sounds amazing!
Nice work.
Cab primed and ready for paint
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My game had been poorly painted, touched up and filled a couple times in the past lol.
It took a bit to remove the prior repairs, square the cab and re-brad/re-block all the split and rotted wood.
Should last another 30 years now!
Next up, decals!
Yay, finally will look like a game.
One thing I learned on this resto.
NEVER USE RUSTOLEUM PRIMER.
NOT ANY TYPE OF PRIMER FROM RUSTOLEUM. IT DOESNT DRY ON WOOD !!!!!!!!!
End of service announcement.
Use kilz original oil based. Use a foam roller and brush (you gotta sand it any ways...)
More to follow lol
Quoted from pinballjah:Looks great so far. What do you suggest for black paint to touch up the edges and sides when they get scratched or just faded over time? Thanks.
Krylon satin black is a very close match to the original paint.
Its thin enough you can spray it on a rag, a q-tip or paper towel and rub it in.
Molotow paint pens, sharpie oil based paint pens etc.
Even a sharpie marker works but will turn purple after awhile.
Decals installed
Next we see if the playfield fits and how the side blades look
20190727_231508 (resized).jpg20190727_231517 (resized).jpg20190727_231525 (resized).jpg
Ministry of pinball decals do not go edge to edge.
They are quite shorter than the cab.
So I trimmed the bottom to make a black border that somewhat matches the head.
I left a slightly larger border in the rear.
It was a compromise but turned out ok.
Not many choices for doctor who decals these days unless you make your own.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:The decals look good but it is odd they are too small. That is the first time I've read about smaller decals.
I was a bit surprised to say the least...(insert explative here..)
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I actually like this approach better - the decals that are made to wrap around end up cracking in weird places. This makes the game look very clean and almost like a modern game
Outstanding job!
Thanks!
After lining up and centering the artwork, large borders were the only way to proceed.
The black borders lean me towards black armor now.
I was going to get a midnight blue with fine metal flake in silver and black.
But now, satin black seems the only way to go, with fine metal flake?
It would be dark but, look clean.
So, satin black or dark blue armor?
Quoted from gunstarhero:Looks great. Hell of a job dude.
Thanks!
Its not overly perfect, but easily as good or better than factory offerings of the time.
One of the hurdles was the exceptionally terrible plywood quality.
Something like a rough apple crate with voids and cracked veneer running all the way through.
The edges were a bit splintery, but seem to have settled down after rubbing them with titebond and light sanding.
My hobbit cab is barely centered and has some bumps in the decal work. It also has 1/4" borders roughly centered.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Man that is a tough call now. Tardis blue doesn't quite work - it's just too much blue. I think if you go for a 'space' finish, black with multicolored flecks you may be in good shape
I think so too.
We have an appointment to go look at powdercoat samples at our local place next week.
He charges $100 to do all 7 pieces.
I really like the blackness of space with multicolored flake idea.
Like stars in the cosmos!
Thanks.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:$100 for all 7 pieces!! That is a steal. 7 pieces? 4 legs, 2 rails, lock bar... are you not going to do the coin door or hinges?
Yep. $100-$150 depending on coating process. Black is very affordable.
I have a brand new 3 chute door I got from Entropy back in the day for $65 (min 10 doors, I got an assortment lol).
I might use it.
Also I want to restore the existing. It's not too bad.
Black doors look good enough if they are freshly restored.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Where are the blades from?
Out of stock everywhere.
Pingraffix removed them off their site. Evidently copyright restrictions are in place.
Cointaker might have a set, get them now if you want a set.
https://cointaker.com/products/dr-who-pinblades
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/dr-who-pinblades.html
Added over 5 years ago:My mistake. Tilt graphics made my gameblades
Quoted from gunstarhero:lol, I think pinballinreno has decided he's Chris at HEP now.
Lol no way anyone can do what Chris does, he's amazing!
I was cooking late and had a few drinks... grabbed some food from my garden, drunk dialed pinside!
My garden:
20190728_110540 (resized).jpg20190728_110551 (resized).jpg20190728_110626 (resized).jpg
And a couple fruit trees:
20190728_110726 (resized).jpg
I make a lot of our own food.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Nice! Thinking mirror blades on mine this time..
I'm also thinking the same.
But its Pinballgoddess game, she wants the blue ones.
If they get torn up, next ones might be mirrors.
Quoted from bbaker2824:Sorry, don't have a good pic on my phone but you guys got me thinking about my art. I had to trim the edges when installing. I wonder if they had the scale wrong when they made yours?[quoted image]
Are you talking about side blades or cabinet side art?
Cabinet decals are few and far between if you are buying them.
Ministry of pinball has a few sets.
They seem to be a bit shorter than the cabinets though.
It workable and looks fine.
But it was certainly a surprise when I discovered it.
Quoted from bbaker2824:Found this old pic of when I just finished the cabinet. Went with black powder coat. Think blue might look better in hind sight.[quoted image]
I think black looks pretty shartp!
Seems to match the head better.
Since I have black borders on my cab, black might just be perfect.
It would look complete.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I actually think that looks really good. The blue is just too blue IMO
Rescheduled my meeting with the powdercoat company for next week.
I'm leaning heavily towards the midnight black with the blue metal flake.
Gotta see it in person...
Maybe pearl black:
https://images.nicindustries.com/prismatic/products/1641/pearl-black-pmb-5349-thumbnail.jpg?size=1024&_gl=1*1jsivvo*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE1NjQ2Mjk0NTEuQ2p3S0NBanctSVRxQlJCN0Vpd0FaMWM1VV9ranlMbWRyOVNZRHlPVU15ckJSSnlDd0ZQVlVXeXUxLWxzcmVKMUZZSHNMdWxSdE44UzZob0NsRFVRQXZEX0J3RQ..&_ga=2.263891977.468727018.1564628479-391674983.1564348045&_gac=1.193070559.1564629451.CjwKCAjw-ITqBRB7EiwAZ1c5U_kjyLmdr9SYDyOUMyrBRJyCwFPVUWyu1-lsreJ1FYHsLulRtN8S6hoClDUQAvD_BwE
So right now the main choices are prismatic colors:
American sparkle
Pearl black
What do you think between the two?
Or just plain satin black.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:American - it has more of the colors from the game and cab side art
I think the American sparkle is really good.
Pinballgoddess is swayed towards the pearl black lol.
In either case the colors that look blackest I think look the best.
Some of the other ones look kinda brown.
My mistake, game blades were by tilt graphics:
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/dr-who-gameblades
Amazing thick textured vinyl.
Colors are bright and match the cabinet nicely.
Pinballgoddess has come up with yet another powdercoat idea just to confuse me:
This actually looks more fitting perhaps!
Pinball life metal Cab protectors (not shown), Williams new style leg brackets, ground braid etc ...
Ryobi 18v stapler did a barely adequate job with a little tap with a hammer on a staple once in awhile.
But it was super easy to use.
20190806_171326 (resized).jpg20190806_171338 (resized).jpg
For some reason the transformer was not installed with the t nuts and was missing the ground when I got it. I'll ohm out the system before energising it to check for ground faults. And check that all metal is grounded including the speakers.
So far the ultimate shop out sticker kit has had everything I need:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1054-flashinstinct/00575-bally-williams-warning-decals
Thank you so much flashinstinct
I replaced the lockdown receiver/guide.
After the sonic cleaner removed all the rust and corrosion, the old one still looked terrible.
20190810_182303 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I’ve never been able to get a lockdown bar back looking original - for $60 at Mantis it’s just not worth the work if you’re going all out.
FWIW I highly recommend the PinSound speakers to pair with the PinSound board - they are made out of higher quality Kevlar. FF is great too, but having installed both I found the PinSound speakers made from better materials
I dont know what caused the deep pitting on the old lockdown bar.
After sanding it down it looked worse and worse.
Good to know about pinsound speakers.
FF came in highly recommended as far as sound quality.
Pinballgoddess opted for the best sound for her pinsound ststem, FF seemed to fit the bill lol.
I do like the kevlar idea. Durability in a pinball machine is paramount to success.
Found broken thermistor bypassed in power box also had a 7a fuse.
Replaced it and the MOV while I had it apart.
I installed a 8a slo-blo and a cool sticker!
Over-amped from europe! (5a fuse over there).
Also import games dont have the service outlet, so I added it back in.
With sticker of course!
I ordered a new line filter from marco, but the one that came is different.
The specs are the same, probably ok.
Tests out, 118 in, 118 out.
Ground is perfect.
Switch looks perfect.
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Final decision on armor color has been made.
Pinballgoddess took the siderails lockdown bar and legs over to the powdercoater today.
Pearl Black. $121 total.
The decision was based on the issue that most of the colored metal flake coatings started looking brown at a short distance due to refraction and blending.
Pearl black and Barcelona black are way blacker and look good at a distance.
Lower cabinet done.
Had to extend a few wires and rewire the start and launch switches.
Basically move the diodes into the harness and add crimp connectors.
All of the connectors were a bit of a birds nest, evidently nylon ties aren't available in europe...
20190813_100752 (resized).jpg20190813_100809 (resized).jpg
Before:
20190628_152132 (resized).jpg
Got new dalek dome from PPS today, looks like a fine product.
Much better than the cracked, broken, box taped-up one i have...
I'll try to install it friday.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Thanks! It's as I thought.
Are you also missing the bushing and e-clip?
20190816_101708 (resized).jpg
20190513_172013 (resized).jpgQuoted from Bryan_Kelly:I am. I didn’t see it for sale anywhere. I thought about making my own out of something.
Let me measure mine.
Looks like 3/4" (19mm) diameter
1/2" long
3/8" shaft
Any e-clip for a 3/8" shaft will probably work.
20190816_115056 (resized).jpg20190816_115157 (resized).jpg20190816_115210 (resized).jpg20190816_115446 (resized).jpg
Quoted from pinballinreno:Let me measure mine.
Looks like 3/4" (19mm) diameter
1/2" long
3/8" shaft
Any e-clip for a 3/8" shaft will probably work.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Might be easy enough to find something and modify it.
I saw some bronze and steel bushings at lowes and ace hardware.
There's a lot of slop on the mini playfield actuator.
Something close should work good enough.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Thanks for all the pics. I've got enough odd ball stuff around here to make something work.
Now, it's getting the time expander to go up and down correctly. Lots of worn parts on this game.
Time expander took more time than anything else on my game so far.
For some reason all Doctor Who games are really beat down.
On mine there is no part, connector or screw or bolt that hasnt been abused.
Including screws punched through the middle of the playfield lol.
All of the boards have hacks etc..
But, getting things in order rapidly.
Door is done.
I have new ones but I thought this one could be saved.
It was pretty bad.
Dented in and pried open a bit.
Missing the coin slots and reject buttons etc..
I can pound on it a bit more, but I think its ok for now.
Paint was via Mr Bryan Kelly technique, works perfectly.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge Bryan.
Looks pretty close to factory as far as finish.
20190817_182930 (resized).jpg20190817_183001 (resized).jpg
Lock is a little long but I have a box of them to use up. I just put a little bend in the hasp.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:It would have been nice to see that door painted tardis blue instead of black. All the new decals and that Black door just looks so darn arghhhhh....Not my game, just my 2 cents. Great job on the resto.
Yes! But after much negotiation and soul searching lol, and turning a complete about face direction,
Pinballgoddess suddenly went with pearl black armor.
The black door should fit in well with that.
It's a womans prerogative... lol.
A few pics of it assembled.
I dont think it's too black, the pearl metal is way nicer in person.
It seems appropriate with the artwork as it is.
Im sure there are a lot if great ideas out there but over-all I'm very pleased with it.
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Quoted from gunstarhero:That looks freakin great. Good call.
I like the new translite too.
Thanks!
That translite in my opinion, really modernised the game.
I wasn't a big fan of all the yellow/amber doctor dudes...lol
Ideally due to the story line, some kind of time streams translite would be very cool.
If there is one, I'd be interested.
Quoted from unlockpinball:If you want to look like a pro, or just feel like one, then install the Time Expander Opto Fix. Simple to install and now game has 0 dot errors!!
ebay.com link
Nice catch! Bought it.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I'm not normally a fan of powder coating but that looks awesome.
Thanks!
We went over the prismatic catalogue pretty thoroughly.
We looked at blues, reds, yellows etc.
Nothing seemed to work as well as the blacks with a bit of metal flake.
Working in the pretzel of warps on my playfield.
The right edge that has the short wooden siderail is a problem.
There is just no support for the pop bumpers and the weight of the time expander.
This causes a droop in the right upper corner.
Easily fixed with a new playfield that is non-existant ☹.
So. I'm inclined to add a support on the right edge.
I'm thinking a 1/2" stainless corner brace like for tile edging.
The upper right posts will shore it up with very little reworking.
I'll post what I come up with.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Shim the playfield pivot bracket. That droop will go away. I did this to mine and the droop went away.
Yep, I think I'll do that, and some extra support.
Checked the playfield fit and looked at the gameblades. Glass is off.
In the first picture there is still a 1/8" droop on the upper right corner.
This is with a 3/16" shim under the right pivot bracket.
Pressing on the playfield to simulate some weight removes about 1/16" of droop.
Stiffening up the upper right corner might give me another 1/16" or better of height.
We'll have to see.
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No steel support. It can be added later if need be.
Reese rails next month when they get back to work.
Reverse bending, a little heat with a hair dryer only, NOT HOT!
Just about 130 degrees F over a large area of the center, Kinda diagonally where it looked tight?
For about 90 mins.
Followed with dry Terry cloth towels out of the 6 degree freezer.
Shim still in via eyeamred2u recommendation, thanks! Your experience paid off.
Twist is drastically reduced.
I hope it stays.
Right now it looks a close as they come from the factory.
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Looks great I'm taking notes on your restore as I plan on doing a similar restore to ours a little down the road but I'm liking the choices you have made with the powder coat, the new translite and side blades. Keep up the great work and updates.
Thanks!
I dont want to bore people with minutia, just highlite problems I encountered and my solutions to problems such as they are...lol.
I really appreciate the help the pinsiders have given me, it really helped.
Glad you like it so far, more to come!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I’ve been meaning to ask - did you have to get new ramps? Mine has the usual busted spot on the upper ramp, and I can Cliffy it but I’d rather just go for the full replacement
All of my ramps are cracked and broken beyond repair. Oddly my subway is in great condition, I'll just replace the switches on it and the opto's on the others.
I bought the full set of 3 ramps and the full set of cliffys.
Also bought all new switches. Pop bumper kits, coil sleeve kits, flipper kits and the impossible to get up kicker plunger.
Putting in all sunlight 2smd leds. They look a lot like the original #44 bulbs when lit.
My game has incorrect coils, hacked boards etc. You name it and its f#@ked up lol.
Installing mylars on the pop and drop areas and rebuilding the switch harness Monday.
I'm waiting for my boards to get back from Chris hibler for rebuilding and repairs.
I'm going to attempt to replace all the 906 flashers with 5smd tower LEDs. They seem bright enough from my bench tests.
We will see how this goes and looks, lol, its experimental.
Trying to eliminate the heat/power issues.
I have the LEDOCD system as well as the GI system.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I installed a P5US in mine to replace the stock voltage regulator- made a world of difference- cleaner power and no heat whatsoever. You may ask if Hibler will install it for you. Solved my reset issues for good
Where did you buy ramps?
I got the 3 ramp set from marco.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I know the shim is not the best approach, it it has held up quite well on my game.
With the droop and twist, it took a combined approach to get it perfect. The shim really helped.
When I got the game the back panel of the playfield dragged on the wall so bad It made a gouge.
Also the cabinet was out of square 3/8"
It took a bit or clamping, gluing and nailing to firm it up and fix it.
Pony clamps and diagonal pressure from ratchet straps worked really well after cracking everything loose with a heavy rubber mallet.
Now its smooth and perfect.
The playfield is level enough for gameplay. It's actually s little better than my NIB games lol.
Slight bend at the pops but it's only the pop area and wont affect gameplay at all.
Great solution!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:How about plastics? I can’t find those anywhere. Are those unobtanium?
Somewhat unobtainable. I traded for a set awhile back, before I started this restore.
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Does anyone have the file for this set of Apron cards? Here's the link to the Orginal thread but the matching card to the first pic isn't there.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-doctor-who-custom-apron-cards#post-764501[quoted image]
Download the images directly from the thread?
Working on the speaker panel today.
Lots of scratches and deep gouges.
How can a speaker panel get this kind of abuse?
Weird gouges like dog teeth marks WTF!
Sanded with 1200, cascaded up thru the grits to 2500, buffed out, it's not perfect but looks ok. Still some dents, but I don't want to get it too thin.
Some f#cktard taped it all together with some sticky degraded crap.
Rapid adhesive remover made short work of a terrible sticky mess on the inside.
I love that stuff.
I'll rebuild it friday with the flipper fidelity kit.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Yikes, time to call cliffy!!
I have a full set of cliffys.
I'm unclear as to shooter lane protection.
Can you or someone post a picture of shooter lane cliffys in doctor who?
I don't see any shooter lane guards in my full kit, that I recognise.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:It is the ball eject to shooter lane protector. Cliffy makes it.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/balleject/ShonDrWhoEJ1.jpg
Ahhhhh!
Found it, thank you so much.
15671996952588271901944238976533 (resized).jpgAssembled speaker panel.
Upgraded 5" speakers, LED style colorDMD. Repainted the panel and speaker grills.
Sanded out all the dog teeth marks, deep gouges and most of the scratches.
The inside of the lens had deep scratches in it.
I had to sand out to 3000 grit then buff to get it to polish.
Buffed inside and out to a mirror finish.
It's not perfect, but will have to do as there are no replacements.
It came with cool white flat top LED's.
I replaced them with 2SMD frosted sunlight.
I added strips of foam around the display for light blocking.
Probably doesnt need it. But I had a roll on my bench from my lockdown bar, begging to be used for something lol.
It seemed to look better to me.
20190830_135416 (resized).jpg20190830_135734 (resized).jpg20190830_140529 (resized).jpg
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Where did you get the 555 strip for the Doctors? Mine is a all in one piece but it's pretty dim now.
The strip is just the standard regular unhacked one.
It comes from the factory populated with screw in 555 sockets.
If you look at yours it might be redone with soldered leds?
If you have colorDMD LCD version, people hack the light strip to make it fit.
You don't have to do that with the LED version of the colorDMD.
Show us a picture?
Quoted from topkat:I have to take my expander out to clean it. When it is down it’s totally level, when it goes up to level one or two it’s tilted. I am trying to figure if that’s an issue with the adjustment screws or the mech?
Pull it out and clean it, lube it with synthetic grease.
Adjust it, test with a 9v battety.
Replace any worn out parts.
Faz's guide is the definitive bible for this.
I printed it out and have referred to it a lot.
I think I want to add pinshaker to my Doctor Who
Has anyone done this?
It looks amazing.
What triggers would be right for the game?
Quoted from gunstarhero:I know you can run it off the flashers, but it would be perfect if it shook when you heard the Tardis sound effect.
Does a flasher run during the tardis sound?
If so that would be very cool.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:It’s REALLY expensive but I would recommend you add a PinSound board and the PinSound shaker. Then you can add shaker effects any time a specific callout or piece of music or sound effect is played.. any time. This lets you really control shaker effects when a specific mode starts - or any time the MPf goes up or down.
Also adding the PinSound board will let you add a custom soundtrack, with custom callouts. I added all the new doctors with callouts that make sense in the context of the game, for example. Emphasis on David Tennant mostly. You
May wish to inform your lady
I have pinsound plus for my FF speakers alteady!
I didn't know they had a shaker.
Just checked. It's the same price as pinshaker but way more advanced.
12 different shakes! Isolated or combined! WTF, I'm sold.
Also has preset shake settings via pinsound to start it off per game selected!
This is exactly what i want !
Thanks.
Quoted from pinballjah:Pinsound has pinball owners currently working on custom shakers settings for each game. I would think it would be for the original soundtrack, but other custom orchestrations will get the shaker settings added over time.
For the moment I'm interested in the original track with shaker.
However I do want to try Rdoyle1978 custom track with modern call outs.
It seems perfect with added new doctors.
My game is almost done.
I'm putting the posts back and topside features right now.
Reassembly is fast and fun with all new parts lol.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Are you using the pinsound or newer pinsound+ ? Just wondering if either will work.
I bought the pinsound plus.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Fantastic! I’ll send you a Dropbox to my PinSound mix of you wanna check it out. The shaker ships next
Month I believe
My game should be up and playing about then.
It's really exciting!
Pinballgoddess asks if you can you add a couple call outs from the current female doctor to your pinsound mix?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I’ll see what I can do- took me HOURS to find even semi-relevant callouts from previous episodes - but I’m sure I can add some from the 13th. Might take a few weeks!
I’m sure I shared this before but here’s some of the callouts. Playing the game with the old soundtracks is now a non-starter for me. This video doesn’t do justice to how MASSIVE the difference is with stereo sound and better audioLooks like this doesn’t include my K-9 sound package but still it’s not bad
Lol, yes it's an amazing amount of work!
But women only see the results and thumbs up or down like Cleopatra...
It's ok by me. I dont tell her how many hours it takes to make tiny adjustments or the expense, I just get to it in time.
I also didnt tell her about the $600 it cost for her red smoke and flying monkey mods 
She absolutely loves them. Its all that matters
If it makes her laugh or smile, I win lol.
Gotta love 'em (or they would all be dead by now...)
Got the posts and flatrails done.
Chris hibler should send my poor hacked boards back soon.
I really want reese rails for this game. My timing is poor I guess
As soon as I needed them he went on a much needed an much deserved vacation...LOL !
I can install them later, if I can get them.
NOS lane guides from marco. They are pretty warped but the colors are good.
20190903_190415 (resized).jpg20190903_190435 (resized).jpgI think I'm going with white STC on the game. Black or red perfect play on the flippers
It came with all black on the whole game but it seems too dark.
I have silicone all over my Diner but it seems way too bouncey.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Make sure you try Titans - they have less bounce than the Perfect Play, you can do proper dead catches. They also slow down the ball a touch more than regular rubber
I might regret the STC white over the whole game, but it really plays good until it rots away lol.
I have some titan flipper rubbers.
Might be perfect!
Pinballgoddess is sold on perfect play.
I dont think they last that long.
She goes thru a set every couple months on her WOZ.
Although they last twice as long as latex
Also thinking about urethane post sleeves. They last forever.
But bounce funny.
I'm also putting back in the lightning flipper bats.
It came with standard bats but you get a little more power off the coils with slightly shorter bats.
The 1/8" seems like a lot shorter, but the game came with lightning flippers.
1/4" increase in flipper gap should be challenging lol.
I can always change them if it's too hard to play.
Has anyone else put in the lightning flippers?
Quoted from Robotworkshop:At the moment I have regular red rubber on the flipper bats. The slingshots have dark blue urethane and the rest of the rings are yellow urethane. Used a mix of black, yellow sleeves on the playfield and red blue sleeves on the time expander. Game looks great. Now I was only good at playing this one. Love the way the game looks but it crushes me all the time....
I think I'll go with red flipper rubber also.
Seems to match the outlane plastics border better.
Sleeves will match the flyer I think.
I do think all white rubber will brighten it up and add bounce.
If it rots off fast, probably go with white titans or urethane maybe for durability.
I have tons if white I gotta use up. Lol.
Quoted from pinballjah:Agreed. Push of a button and you can switch between orchestrations. He likely won’t want to try my Green Day remix I may do next for the Dr Who or Pink Floyd
I think Pink Floyd would be amazing for Doctor Who.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:How come you did not repair the Damage at the front of the time expander. Cliffy's will cover it, but I would have put some filler in those divots.
Ummm...I do have it too...
I was focusing and polishing and sorting out post locations and forgot to put on the cliffy!
Great call...lol.
My bondo filler tests failed to grip as much as I wanted, It just cracked off. Casting resin would have worked, but it's a tiny area.
I'm hoping the steel will hold up unsupported under the divots for home use.
Now is the time to install the cliffy hahaha!
I'll put it on when I start adding rubbers
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I did, had broken flippers on mine when I got it. Now it plays perfectly.[quoted image]
Thankyou so much for the playfield picture!
Pinside is amazing!
I didnt take any overview shots.
I started by doing a simple shop and wax. There was so much damage and nonsense going on, I had to do a complete restoration.
You just saved me hours if work!
And, I like the black flipper rubber now...
In the picture your flippers are adjusted up from the alignment holes.
Is that a gameplay afjustment to make it play better?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I’m confused - this game came factory with Lightning flippers. Do you mean it had regular flippers at first and you replaced them?
Yes, in fact many Doctor Who have the wrong flippers on them.
Operators just put in what they have on hand when someting breaks.
Quoted from gunstarhero:On the Lightning Flipper topic... should the upper flipper be a Lighting or standard bat?
Good qusetion!
I'm going with the lightening, since I have them, but I'm also wondering if that is correct.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Upper flipper is a normal bat AFAIK
The Allen shoppe picture on the ipdb.org middle left playfield shows it as a regular flipper.
It's not hi-res but doesnt look like lightning embossed to me.
The lower flippers indeed are lightening.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Upper flipper is a normal bat AFAIK
Great call.
Now I'm going to put a regular one there.
Quoted from gunstarhero:Mine are Lightning on the bottom and a standard on top but I have a buddy with all lightning, that’s why I was wondering.
The picture on ipdb.org shows it that way.
I think I'm going to fo it that way also.
The longer flipper gives you more shot variety.
The shorter flippers can give you more power in some circumstances.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I put a toothpick in the holes to set my adjustment stop.
Toothpick, Allen wrench etc goes between the rubber and the bat then in the hole.
Yours look high from how it looks in the picture.
Sorting out rubber colors and checking if all the posts are correctly placed. Per the maual.
I'm going with white rubber and cliffy urethane post sleeves.
I have to see what black flipper rubber I have in stock...
Time expander cliffy added.
I had to elongate to mounting holes 1/8" towards the rear to get it to fit correctly.
20190906_143302 (resized).jpg
This star post look like it was installed at the factory from the playfield fade.
Manual shows it as a white "I" post.
I'm leaving it, looks like a better support.
20190906_143313 (resized).jpg
Quoted from pinballinreno:Sorting out rubber colors and checking if all the posts are correctly placed. Per the maual.
I'm going with white rubber and cliffy urethane post sleeves.
I have to see what black or red flipper rubber I have in stock...
Time expander cliffy added.
I had to elongate to mounting holes 1/8" towards the rear to get it to fit correctly.
[quoted image]
This star post look like it was installed at the factory from the playfield fade.
Manual shows it as a white "I" post.
I'm leaving it, looks like a better support.
[quoted image]
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I started with white rubber, then immediately went to black and Cliffy's colored post sleeves. White just looked silly to me. It may look amazing on yours, can't wait to see the game fully finished.
There is not a lot of rubber on the game. Super easy to change it out at this point.
White sling rubber doesnt last long.
I imagine it will be black or urethane in the near future.
Most of it is buried or unseen.
White might brighten it up a bit.
I have tons of white or black rubber.
Pinballgoddess will make her final choice
Quoted from pinballinreno:pinballgoddess will make her final choice
She says white for now.
She has a pretty good eye for art.
I'm color-blind and go with the flow lol.
Interestingly, I pulled cracked and dried our white rubbers deep inside the game. I'm thinking it shipped with white rubber? At least in some areas.
Quoted from gunstarhero:I’ve done the posts and the flippers on mine but the white rubber was still good enough not to have to swap yet.[quoted image]
I like it!
Just a touch of brightness from the white here and there.
Looks sharp.
Spent some time making up and installing DA3 switches to replace them all in the game harness.
I only have about 20 left. Some green, some red and a couple white button ones.
They should be ok I think.
When they are gone I'll be using the DB5 ones.
I have a ton of those. 60 grams operating force. Probably a much better choice vs 90 gram for the DA3's. But the game came with DA3"s...
I'm putting all new switches throughout. Including the trough ones.
My refreshed driver board from Chris Hibler is finished and will be here in a couple days.
The audio board is really a mess, I hope it can be repaired.
I hope to get the colorDMD and pinsound up and running then.
I dont think I need the playfield in the game to test or program them.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I have an extra DW audio board if you want - might save you some time
If mine cant be fixed I will need it.
PM me.
One would think that there would be cool dalek targets for this.
But not for $25 or $4 each from PDI. LOL
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Here's some pics, it was probably hacked for a LCD.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Yes, modified to make it thinner for the colorDMD LCD version.
Since it looks like the color display has been removed, you could unsolder the LED's, clean up the board and re-install the screw sockets.
Or replace the existing LEDS with new ones? The newer SMD ones are brighter.
You might want to get colorDMD again...
Either way the board is not ruined in any way and can easily be adjusted.
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Can you post a pic of the mounts on the sides holding the board. I'd like to have the correct standoffs if you want to fix it and go color LED
Post #2720 shows my panel with colorLED.
Here is a pic of the standoffs:
20190910_121907 (resized).jpg
I dont know the part number for them.
Msybe someone can chime in?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:but you need to salvage the decals)
I found the decal here.
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/dr-who-expander-decal.html
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I have a super clean scan of the time expander decal, I scanned an original. I printed all my own decals for Doctor Who. I can send it to you if you want to make your own decals. I also have the decals for drop targets and the time expander metal shroud.
I think I got them from you!
I'm going to see if my sign guy can make good prints from them.
Coming up. Gotta get there first lol.
I'm also copying the ramp decal set that came with my ramps for future spares.
None seem to be available separately.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:The ramp decals are the only ones I am missing. If you scan them, please send me the files.
Will do!
Pinshskers.com has done a lot since I last looked at them.
Shaker can be enabled from pretty much anything! Switches, magnets motors solenoids or flashers!
So it's a hardware activated system?
Verses a sound/call out activated system from pinsound .
I wonder which is better. They both seem to have pro's and con's.
If I wanted to enable the shaker without a sound prompt the pinshaker seems like the right choice.
However the sounds offer better choreography throughout the game. I could enable the shaker at at any level, at any time based on the sound effect.
The problem occurs when you might enable the shaker where there is no sound?
What seems appropriate for Doctor Who?
Am I locked into the pinsound on this title?
Has as anyone tried the pinshaker?
Quoted from DudeRegular:Ok guys, I picked up a Doctor Who and had a chance to take a quick look last night. The game is a reimport. Still has all incandescent bulbs.
When I checked it out with the seller the enter button on the coin door stopped working which prevented me from doing any testing. One of the batteries had leaked a bit. It looks like that is likely the cause of most of the issues. The seller was having it reset on double flips. Hopefully I can clean the MPU up and get her functional. It was flipping at the sellers but now I get pinballs missing on the display.
Playfield is pretty good overall. No bare wood that I can see so far. Novus 2 cleaned up a bunch of the gunk. Cabinet is pretty good too, faded on from and right but still looks good. Dmd has a the bottom two rows and the right two columns out. I plan to clean her up and put LEDs in it. I was thinking warm white or sunlight comets for the GI. What are you guys running?
I ordered one of the kahr daughter boards as well. Not sure I will need that but ordered it when I thought it was likely the 5v reset issue.
One spot on the playfield I wanted to get some input on is right above the flippers where the trapezoidish piece of mylar is. It looks like it's just the mylar getting boogered up and which was touched up. Thoughts on removing it? Would hate to find serious wear underneath though.
Looking forward to getting this game up and running again and joining the club.[quoted image]
Most Doctor Who games are pretty rough or suffer from corrosion or both.
Typical repairs needed:
Rebuild the power supply board.
Rebuild AC power box with new line filter varistor and thermistor. Add in the removed service outlet, add in 8 amp fuse.
The area below flippers looks like wear thru the clearcoat that has been touched up, sand it flat apply thin mylar over the area for now.
The whole playfield should be sanded, touched up and re-cleared at a later date.
Replace display with colorLED.
Send CPU board in for rebuild/repair.
Check GI connector on driver board and replace with trifurcon. Re-Cap driver board with cap kit.
Install regular 2SMD frosted sunlight LEDs throughout.
Use 5SMD towers for the 906 bulbs.
Install LEDOCD board.
Rebuild time expander.
Re-decal cabinet.
These few items should make the game last for years to come.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:That is a bad touchouch job if I ever saw one.
Yep.
Its not too bad though. Molotow marker is a pretty good color match under clearcoat, without getting too fancy.
If super careful it wouldnt be noticable.
I did all my keylines freehand with one, looks and works great. Does not bleed into clear.
Mistakes wipe off with rapid prep cleaner.
Quoted from DudeRegular:Thanks all. I will try to get another pic from a different angle. The spot that shows the touch up has some wrinkling/lifting. That is why I was wondering if it was a touch up on the mylar itself. Does that piece of mylar look like its common to any other folk's copy of the game? It looks like a good placement there to pretect the area, but I have no idea if that was a common or standard application. I would hate to pull up the mylar and find a big mess underneath.
Doctor Who has a diamond plate playfield.
Although it exists, its not common to see one with full factory mylar.
The location you show is not where mylar would be unless its full factory mylar. Or repairs had been made.
You cant paint over mylar, it just wont stick.
It looks like a bump from a screw poke from underneath or a chip from a dropped tool or something that was addressed quick and dirty.
Or its mylared and its been scraped or gouged and is wrinkling and loose there.
Quoted from DudeRegular:I took a closer look. There is a tiny bit of bubbling and it looks like the touchup is underneath that spot. I was wondering because the mylar is cut and placed in a pretty precise way. It lines up very well with the yellow lines in the art. Also it is wearing in a spot and the original artwork looks great underneath there.
It was repaired and Mylared.
Play on it, dont sweat it.
Itll be fixed when you re-clear the playfield.
In my opinion, th he playfield should be touched up and recleared at this point.
That's what I did.
Got the colorLED running.
2smd sunlight frosted are about as perfect as can be!
5smd cool white towers are working perfectly.
They have just the right sharpness and brightness so far. They are polarized so you have to get them the right direction lol.
I got all of them good but one I had to turn around!
Tomorrow I'll try and get the pinsound up.
What is the definitive mix for pinsound doctor who?
I'm swaying towards the modern with the london symohony tracks.
Anyone have one that's the absolute best?
I hooked up the stereo cable that came with the FF speakers.
Left, right and center (sub) channels.
Is there a faux stereo presence adjustment?
Installed Frank's battery board.
https://noquartersarcade.com/battery-board/why-use-a-battery-board/
I was going to do nvram but I wanted to preserve the real time clock as originally developed.
Pinballgoddess uses the game as a room clock, so it will display time and date.
We get 5 power interruptions on an average day.
She doesnt want to adjust the clock daily.
It's a very affordable solution and easy to install.
20190914_103118 (resized).jpgI installed this USB stick on my pinsound:
20190914_103134 (resized).jpg
It worked for the firmware update and the downloaded original doctor who sounds.
Some of the music and sounds have gaps and stutter.
I haven't made any adjustments to treble bass etc. So it sounds weak lol.
I need to investigate further, but for now it works!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:very smart move. DW doesn't go crazy with callouts (like say, IJTPA), so you don't notice too much a slower drive - but this is still a very good idea.
It was the recommended stick that pinsound sells and has tested for pinsound plus.
I also have a 300mb/sec USB 3.1 ultra fit.
I'll test that one later and see if it also works.
On pinsound it seems faster is better, if it works.
Spent a little time on pinsound this afternoon.
Wow, I love the 6 little dials on the board!
The scratchy terrible original soundtrack sounds like crap.
Adjusting everything makes a huge improvement!
But scratchy crap is still crap.
I love the deep bass from the woofer. Really makes a huge difference.
But sadly, I have to agree with others that without better source files, there's no fixing it in the mix.
Now, onto a better mix!
What is the best?
I'm going to try the modern one monday.
I dont have an original sound board to compare it to.
So essentially I'm hearing the game for the first time.
And honestly the original track doesnt sound that good lol.
I was hoping for a more immersive experience from the pinsound, but fortunately there are more tracks to sample!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Didn’t get a chance to post the mix today - house cleaning day! Will do so tomorrow!
Great!
I look forward to hearing it.
Quoted from DudeRegular:pinballinreno Any pics of your playfield with the sunlight bulbs? I have sunlight and warm white coming soon.
Warm white is a bit yellow. I bought a few for test and didnt like them.
I test them on my work station powered outlet at 6v. I compared the LEDs to new bulbs for color differences.
My thinking was the original lighting team balanced the artwork around d the #44 bulbs.
2smd frosted Sunlight looks very much like brand new #44 bulbs. Really perfect.
I put then in my backbox. That picture is posted above.
I'm attempting to go 100% LEDs in the game. So, 5smd cool white towers for the #906 bulbs also, as well as flex heads and dual flex heads for larger inserts.
I'll take a pic when I plug it in for testing in a couple days.
In also curious!
I might add a couple colored ones due to a couple faded inserts. But then again I might not.
As we have seen, "Color Flooding" the game with too many colors creates a brown hue to everything and mutes all of the playfield color.
Basically if to take a bunch of colors and mix them in a can, you always get brown. Regardless of the colors used.
Casting brown light looks tertible.
Buying a "kit" with all color matched bulbs sounds good on paper, but ends up looking brown with bits of color.
Going all 2smd frosted brightens the game and preserves the colors around them. It's a great choice.
We'll see about adding a couple colored ones lol.
Quoted from pinballjah:If your not a Rush fan,
I think the Rush mix is great!
But Pinballgoddess isn't a real fan (although she said it was very cool!).
My only real complaint is how the enhanced sound system makes very clear how terrible and scratchy the original sounds are lol.
I have the pinsound headphone jack. Does it also function as an external speaker volume control? Or is it only for headphone volume.
Quoted from pinballjah:External volume as well.
Wow!
That solves s problem that PinGoddess asked me about.
I have external pinnovator controls on all my games.
She uses it all the time.
Just perfect! Thanks!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:or try this link:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/622epqf0cg02zuh/Doctor_Who_12Doctors.zip?dl=0
do me a favor and let me know your thoughts - I am always wanting to improve the mix! This makes the game SOOOOOOO much more fun IMO.
If it's more or less perfected you could upload it to pinsound maybe?
Fame and fortune awaits! Lol
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:maybe after I add the 12th and 13th doctors.
I think there is also an occasional "Affirmative!" callout when you hit the sonic boom ramp. This is because I had installed my K-9 mod there. It is in one of the SFX folders if anybody wants to remove it
That would be amazing!
Peter Capaldi is really popular.
Ok, the debate is over.
Official Pinballgoddess pinsound test results as follows:
First place:
Rdoyle1978 modern mix with additional doctor voices.
Thus one made Pinballgoddess cry tears of absolute joy when I went through the sample tests. (Real actual tears in her eyes!)
Great job Robert!
Second place:
dendoc Modern mix off the pinsound website.
Pinballgoddess was impressed and excited by this one. She really liked it until she heard the one with added doctors lol.
Third place:
Original sounds from pinsound website.
Pinballgoddess was horrified by this one. She thought is sounded so bad that there was something wrong with the game.
Indeed it's pretty scratchy and annoying lol. She recommended throwing the drive I used for it in the trash lol.
So there you have it.
Not really definitive as a complete review, but I have to agree Rdoyle1978 mix is really good.
I cant wait to hear anything more he adds to it.
Runner up in my opinion is the Rush version from @pinballjah. Its really good but, I think you gotta be a Rush fan (who isnt? Lol).
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Thanks man!
Maybe next weekend? If anyone has samples from particular episodes they want to include, let me know - that is the most time consuming part of this, BY FAR! I included a couple of River Song episode quotes, but not her actual voice, since she's not the Doctor. There are one or two Eccleston quotes, but I had a really hard time finding ones from his episodes that made sense. And there's more Tennant quotes because he's my favorite so far and had the most interesting lines to choose from
Anything you add is just icing on the cake!
Finished the lighting harness.
Pinballgoddess insisted on a red LED for the "to be continued" insert.
I had a dual-flex in there.
She said it was too orange.
All switches test out, with a ball.
Requested pictures:
So, all frosted sunlight color 2smd except for a single red one and 4 of the dual flex cool white on larger or big arrow inserts lol.
Flex dual head wasn't bright enough for the opaque transmat oval.
I used a 4smd cool white on it at an angle, that best lit it up.
Now onto the solenoid flasher harness.
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