(Topic ID: 76377)

Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!

By HoakyPoaky

10 years ago


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There are 6,511 posts in this topic. You are on page 18 of 131.
#851 8 years ago
Quoted from Fairground:

It's the vertical up kicker. (zoom)
PLUNGER ARMATURE BALL POPPER ASSEMBLY
#A-15580
Ball popper armature assembly 02-4616
Used in Bally DOCTOR WHO pinball machine.
Reference:
A-15580
Replaces:
02-4616
Weight: 1.5 oz

I recently replaced this part in my DW. It took me forever since I had no idea of what I was doing.
So, I am looking for advice for next time.

From underneath the playfield, I only undid the nut (ESN) on the bottom of the armature and the 2 small machine screws which hold the upper bracket for the coil (removing any released parts as I went). The hardest bit was trying to fit the new part back in, due to its length. I ended up removing the screw in the very top of the new part, which holds the plastic ball holder/shooter part, inserting the rest and then re-attaching the plastic part using an offset (right-angled) screwdriver. This involved a bit of manoeuvring the screwdriver through and around the surrounding metal frame parts and losing the screw, which took a while to recover.

Everything works OK, but is there a better, easier or correct way to approach this task in future?

#852 8 years ago

Im in!! Got this yesterday.

P1080546.JPGP1080546.JPG

#853 8 years ago
Quoted from twinmice:

Got this yesterday.

No cabinet fade? That's like finding a needle in a haystack

#854 8 years ago
Quoted from twinmice:

Im in!! Got this yesterday.

Welcome now order that color DMD!!!

#855 8 years ago

And cliffys and mirror blades and pdi glass

#856 8 years ago

The ColorDMD really is done well ... Shimoda did a GREAT job with the dots.

One of the not-too-obvious Cliffy is the ramp protector. Very important.

And the motorized topper... just because it's so FREAKING COOL!
faz

#857 8 years ago

Does anyone still sell the topper kit? Thanks Mike

#858 8 years ago
Quoted from twinmice:

Does anyone still sell the topper kit? Thanks Mike

I assume you are talking about the "wobble head".

The REAL kit:
http://www.basementarcade.com/arcade/drwho/MakingOf/
Mark and Al might make some more, someday.

The "fake copycat" kit:
http://diy-pinball.myshopify.com/products/dr-who-wobble-head-kit

Both cost $300 (or possibly more for the "real" one now, as the assembly mounting was properly machined to match the prototypes).
The original kit was EXPENSIVE to make, and took YEARS.

Check the internals and quality, in doing the reading, there is a HUGE difference in comparison to what you are getting for your money.
Either way, you are are going to need to cough, while holding your personal "effects", and open your wallet.
This is not an LED mod.

I guess it depends on what you want in your machine, and if you can find it.

#859 8 years ago

New member here....
I said member....heh

anyway. Is this the spot to post questions on a DR Who pin on the fritz? I did mail Lloyd for info, but I have a couple questions.

TL;DR reason: turned pin on, came up with "check fuse 114, 115" I did, and they were fine...where next? (LED 1,2,3 are not lit)
In the process of messin with it, I think I killed the board (or at lease a component -possibly rectifier --on the board above the large "main" board.

just looking for some help-a-roonie on this.

thanks!!

I do have pics and such of the boards

#861 8 years ago

Ok, so color dmd is installed and code installed. What's the proper way to hook up the doctor light board connector??

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

#862 8 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer22:

Ok, so color dmd is installed and code installed. What's the proper way to hook up the doctor light board connector??

Shift the display higher on the speaker panel using the hole set closest to the bottom of the display. Then remount the lamp board to the speaker panel beneath the display.

Make sure that the lamp connector does not make contact with the metal bracket.

When the speaker panel is raised the display will block opening/closing of the backbox lamp panel, but this is the easiest way to use the original lamp board. Alternately you can modify the lamp board to fit between the screen and the speaker panel using the guide on our SUPPORT page.

#863 8 years ago

I thought the color dmd had code that it would light the doctors with the lcd and no longer need the doctor light board. Guess not

#864 8 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer22:

I thought the color dmd had code that it would light the doctors with the lcd and no longer need the doctor light board. Guess not

The LAMP_IN connector on the board was designed for the THING lamps on Addams Family and only works when all the lamps are in the same column of the lamp matrix.

#865 8 years ago

I've been thinking of putting a ColorDMD in mine as well. Does the kit work well with a Flipper Fidelity speaker kit? I'm worried about space issues.

#866 8 years ago
Quoted from travisbmartin:

I've been thinking of putting a ColorDMD in mine as well. Does the kit work well with a Flipper Fidelity speaker kit? I'm worried about space issues.

Not sure, but I haven't received any emails regarding compatibility problems with Flipper Fidelity.

#867 8 years ago
Quoted from Dmod:

Not sure, but I haven't received any emails regarding compatibility problems with Flipper Fidelity.

Ok. I wish I could remember if I had read that somewhere or not. Thanks

#868 8 years ago

We have FF speaker kit with ColorDMD and no issues.

Enjoy the Whovian Experience

#869 8 years ago

Lets pretend I suck at semi advanced electronic repair...and my multi meter is a pile...

Are there any recommended board repair folks here? I would be willing to sacrifice a longer wait time for a lower price if needed.

thanks!

#870 8 years ago

also--can anyone recommend a high quality multimeter? I hear Fluke is good, but wondering if there was something cheaper, but just as good--without the fluke name.

#871 8 years ago
Quoted from travisbmartin:

I've been thinking of putting a ColorDMD in mine as well. Does the kit work well with a Flipper Fidelity speaker kit? I'm worried about space issues.

I have them in my TNG + color DMD and everything fits fine.

#872 8 years ago
Quoted from Dmod:

The LAMP_IN connector on the board was designed for the THING lamps on Addams Family and only works when all the lamps are in the same column of the lamp matrix.

Yup, you end up with some kinda random blinking of the doctors. I did the remount with the color dmd mounted high and put back in the doctor light pcb, there's some advice on how to do it either earlier in this thread or via Google. It's really the way to go.

#873 8 years ago
Quoted from Cleatus:

Lets pretend I suck at semi advanced electronic repair...and my multi meter is a pile...
Are there any recommended board repair folks here? I would be willing to sacrifice a longer wait time for a lower price if needed.
thanks!

The Coin Up Cauldron

#874 8 years ago
Quoted from Cleatus:

also--can anyone recommend a high quality multimeter? I hear Fluke is good, but wondering if there was something cheaper, but just as good--without the fluke name.

RadioShack RMS digital multimeter
(CAT NO 22-174B)

Whatever you get makes sure it includes ALL functions, including continuity and FUSE overload protection.

#875 8 years ago

Its very easy to do the doctor light mod. Just cut off the connector, direct solder the wires to the relevant points, and solder the LED legs to the board. There are pics on Pinside. Takes about 15 mins and a good easy intro to soldering if you are unfamiliar.

#876 8 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Its very easy to do the doctor light mod. Just cut off the connector, direct solder the wires to the relevant points, and solder the LED legs to the board. There are pics on Pinside. Takes about 15 mins and a good easy intro to soldering if you are unfamiliar.

The biggest struggle with this is dealing with the wire bundle. You need to find very fine **Flexible** wire.

There's lots of great photos in several threads. Several have created ribbons by taping them together flat, so they fold nice when installing the DMD.
faz

#877 8 years ago

Hey guys! I joined the club today! Very excited! Thanks for a great thread, it's very inspiring. I love seeing everything you guys have done with your Doctor Whos. Unfortunately, it looks like ColorDMD is out of stock. Also thinking about a Pinsound board.

IMG_3646_(resized).JPGIMG_3646_(resized).JPG

#878 8 years ago
Quoted from MacJedi:

joined the club today

Cab paint looks solid

#879 8 years ago
Quoted from MacJedi:

Hey guys! I joined the club today! Very excited! Thanks for a great thread, it's very inspiring. I love seeing everything you guys have done with your Doctor Whos. Unfortunately, it looks like ColorDMD is out of stock. Also thinking about a Pinsound board.

Congratulations!
Seems like something is missing from that photo...
"Exterminate!"

#880 8 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Its very easy to do the doctor light mod. Just cut off the connector, direct solder the wires to the relevant points, and solder the LED legs to the board. There are pics on Pinside. Takes about 15 mins and a good easy intro to soldering if you are unfamiliar.

With complete respect, I do not recommend direct soldering wires to circuit board pins for many reasons, if that is what was referred.
A better method is to use a standoff molex extension cable to protect the wiring, circuits, and mini light board itself.

#881 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Congratulations!
Seems like something is missing from that photo...
"Exterminate!"

Yeah, unfortunately the guy who I bought it from did not have the Dalek topper. I'll be looking for one, but I hear they don't come up very often to purchase.

#882 8 years ago

For those who do not have a machine yet there is kickstarter to bring it to consoles.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1067367405/pinball-arcade-doctor-who

#883 8 years ago
Quoted from MacJedi:

Hey guys! I joined the club today! Very excited! Thanks for a great thread, it's very inspiring. I love seeing everything you guys have done with your Doctor Whos. Unfortunately, it looks like ColorDMD is out of stock. Also thinking about a Pinsound board.

Very nice! where did you find one in the bay area. Doesn't look like the one on CL. Your cabinet looks very clean.

#884 8 years ago

Doctor Who is up right now PAPATV "It Never Drains in Southern California" http://www.twitch.tv/papatvpinball/

#885 8 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Very nice! where did you find one in the bay area. Doesn't look like the one on CL. Your cabinet looks very clean.

Thanks! Yes, it was the one on Craigslist. The cabinet is very clean and not faded. Only a few minor cosmetic scratches here and there, some wear on a few places on the playfield, and some chipping near the mini-playfield. Any advice on how to repair the chipping? It doesn't seem to affect play.

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#886 8 years ago
Quoted from MacJedi:

Thanks! Yes, it was the one on Craigslist. The cabinet is very clean and not faded. Only a few minor cosmetic scratches here and there, some wear on a few places on the playfield, and some chipping near the mini-playfield. Any advice on how to repair the chipping? It doesn't seem to affect play.

Nice, glad it went to a good home. The Cabinet is really nice. Did you negotiate the price since it is missing the topper? BTW, a cliffy will cover up them dings by the Time Expander. This one seems like a dif one from CL, the one on CL had a coin door lock bar.

#887 8 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Nice, glad it went to a good home. The Cabinet is really nice. Did you negotiate the price since it is missing the topper? BTW, a cliffy will cover up them dings by the Time Expander. This one seems like a dif one from CL, the one on CL had a coin door lock bar.

The first thing I did was take off the lock bar. This is the one from Craigslist. He was firm on his price. Thanks for the Cliffy recommendation, I didn't realize they had one for Doctor Who. Cheers!

#888 8 years ago
Quoted from MacJedi:

The first thing I did was take off the lock bar. This is the one from Craigslist. He was firm on his price. Thanks for the Cliffy recommendation, I didn't realize they had one for Doctor Who. Cheers!

Yeah, the set for DW is a bit pricey but it is needed. I have a clear coated PF and it now has a chip right by the time expander. If it only had the cliffy....

#889 8 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Nice, glad it went to a good home. The Cabinet is really nice. Did you negotiate the price since it is missing the topper? BTW, a cliffy will cover up them dings by the Time Expander. This one seems like a dif one from CL, the one on CL had a coin door lock bar.

If you use a Cliffy, you will need to fill and shape those wear spots, otherwise the protector will bend into it in short order. Cliffy will tell you the same.

#890 8 years ago

Hey guys. I'm trying to remember where this goes. Can anyone show me a picture or give me a hint?

1453091747873165665989_(resized).jpg1453091747873165665989_(resized).jpg

#891 8 years ago
Quoted from travisbmartin:

Hey guys. I'm trying to remember where this goes. Can anyone show me a picture or give me a hint?

Here: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=738&picno=21862

faz

#893 8 years ago

I just got my first and favorite pin yesterday. I spent my entire summer between High School and College (and probably $100 in quarters) playing Doctor Who.

drwhopin_(resized).jpgdrwhopin_(resized).jpg

#894 8 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

With complete respect, I do not recommend direct soldering wires to circuit board pins for many reasons, if that is what was referred.
A better method is to use a standoff molex extension cable to protect the wiring, circuits, and mini light board itself.

This photo is from another thread about this and what I did. Mount the Color DMD in the highest position, adjust the image with the controls so it's centered, then you have just enough space to use the original light board below it with the original connection. Running a strip of electrical tape along the bottom of the metal DMD frame puts an extra layer of protection between the molex connector and the nearby metal. It's by far the easier way to do this. The only down side is the Color DMD will stick up above the lighted backboard panel, so to access the boards, you will need to lift out the display/speaker panel before swinging it open, but I tend to do that anyway.

dr_who_(resized).jpgdr_who_(resized).jpg

#895 8 years ago
Quoted from travisbmartin:

Hey guys. I'm trying to remember where this goes. Can anyone show me a picture or give me a hint?

1453091747873165665989_(resized).jpg

It goes right behind the TARDIS.

1453519286390-1345660000_(resized).jpg1453519286390-1345660000_(resized).jpg

#896 8 years ago

Well, short of finishing the TARDIS and getting a ColorDMD, it's come along pretty good

20160123_221201_(resized).jpg20160123_221201_(resized).jpg

#897 8 years ago

Looks like I just joined the club.

IMG_3091_(resized).JPGIMG_3091_(resized).JPG

#898 8 years ago

So, it looks like we are going to have to rebuild the mini-playfield. It is pretty worn out on one side.
Does anyone have any advice, pictures, diagrams, videos for order of disassembly and reassembly?

#899 8 years ago
Quoted from Greenman74:

So, it looks like we are going to have to rebuild the mini-playfield. It is pretty worn out on one side.
Does anyone have any advice, pictures, diagrams, videos for order of disassembly and reassembly?

Faz made a wonderful guide:

https://sites.google.com/site/pinballfaz/

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