(Topic ID: 76377)

Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!

By HoakyPoaky

10 years ago


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#6601 45 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Only my front cover is broken, its easier to make.

I would be interested in one as well, if you could get 2 made. One of mine is battered and lumpy.

1 week later
#6602 33 days ago

Hi, I went away on a weeks vacation and came home to my machine not powering on. The Dalex lights blink and that's it. Looking at the power driver board I see that LED 1, 5, 6, 7 are the only ones that are lit. How should I start to troubleshoot this? What are your normal steps when something like this happens?
Thanks
T

#6603 33 days ago
Quoted from uxb666:

Hi, I went away on a weeks vacation and came home to my machine not powering on. The Dalex lights blink and that's it. Looking at the power driver board I see that LED 1, 5, 6, 7 are the only ones that are lit. How should I start to troubleshoot this? What are your normal steps when something like this happens?
Thanks
T

First, I personally would take a mulit-meter and start measuring the voltages at each end of all the fuses and Test Points on the PowerBoard. This is to determine if I have a blown fuse.
Second, I would look at the CPU board on the left. There are a couple LEDs at the top left of the board. They flash in a particular fashion to tell you if the electronics are ok.
Third, I am hoping you do not have old leaky batteries in the CPU. That will be a costly mistake.
Fourth, I would refer to Pinwiki for common causes. https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#WPC_System_Generations

#6604 33 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

First, I personally would take a mulit-meter and start measuring the voltages at each end of all the fuses and Test Points on the PowerBoard. This is to determine if I have a blown fuse.
Second, I would look at the CPU board on the left. There are a couple LEDs at the top left of the board. They flash in a particular fashion to tell you if the electronics are ok.
Third, I am hoping you do not have old leaky batteries in the CPU. That will be a costly mistake.
Fourth, I would refer to Pinwiki for common causes. https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#WPC_System_Generations

Thanks for the reply.

1) Found that F113 (+5v Logic) was blown. Replaced it and it blew again (forgot to check if the new fuse was good. Assume it was good). Does that point to BR1 or BR2 being bad?
2) No LEDs lit up
3) Battery is off board
4) checking it out.

#6605 33 days ago
Quoted from uxb666:

Thanks for the reply.
1) Found that F113 (+5v Logic) was blown. Replaced it and it blew again (forgot to check if the new fuse was good. Assume it was good). Does that point to BR1 or BR2 being bad?
2) No LEDs lit up
3) Battery is off board
4) checking it out.

Likely. and C2 etc...

#6606 32 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Likely. and C2 etc...

Took a look at the BRs, one has this wierd clump under it. Not sure what that is. On the back of the board one of them looks like a hack job was done. The one with the clump seems to be the bad one. I ordered two new BRs.

And of course when I went to play my White Water, the flipper needs a rebuild. Down two machines in a day. Doh!

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#6607 32 days ago
Quoted from uxb666:

Took a look at the BRs, one has this wierd clump under it. Not sure what that is. On the back of the board one of them looks like a hack job was done. The one with the clump seems to be the bad one. I ordered two new BRs.
And of course when I went to play my White Water, the flipper needs a rebuild. Down two machines in a day. Doh![quoted image][quoted image]

Someone did a hack job removing the bridges in the past. Sad but it happens all the time when people that aren’t use to PCB repairs lack the tools and knowledge to do it right. They often damage the plating and traces for the capacitors too. I correct those all the time. Have another couple boards I’m working on now. Best to strip off all the prior work and then rebuild.

#6608 32 days ago

That does look ugly and sketchy. Could the brown rusty looking stuff be rosin core solder that was not cleaned off? Can we see an after action shot when you are done?

#6609 32 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

That does look ugly and sketchy. Could the brown rusty looking stuff be rosin core solder that was not cleaned off? Can we see an after action shot when you are done?

My board soldering skills are a bit limited, so don't want to mess this up any further. Thinking of sending off to be repaired. Any reccomendations for board repair services? I need to learn this stuff ultimately. My go-to buddy with the skills moved a couple states away.

#6610 32 days ago
Quoted from uxb666:

My board soldering skills are a bit limited, so don't want to mess this up any further. Thinking of sending off to be repaired. Any reccomendations for board repair services? I need to learn this stuff ultimately. My go-to buddy with the skills moved a couple states away.

If needed I'll be glad to help. I normally haven't been advertising my services but have done a ton of these. Mainly for myself, friends, and a couple local arcades. Done once and all still running. I also have a Dr Who and knw the game well.

#6611 26 days ago

Hey all, hoping someone can help.

I recently picked up a DW with a non working Time Expander. I was able to track down some faulty components and traces on the BiDirectional board and got it working, however only in CW direction. A No CCW Movement error still exists.

Everything I’ve seen/read has it not working in both directions, nothing about only working in 1 direction.

Transistors on the Driver board check out ok. Wiring between headbox and bidirectional board also buzz out. So Im assuming there’s further issues with the bidirectional board. There is a a component or two which look a little dodgy which I’ll replace.

Is there anything else which I should be looking at?

#6612 26 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Hey all, hoping someone can help.
I recently picked up a DW with a non working Time Expander. I was able to track down some faulty components and traces on the BiDirectional board and got it working, however only in CW direction. A No CCW Movement error still exists.
Everything I’ve seen/read has it not working in both directions, nothing about only working in 1 direction.
Transistors on the Driver board check out ok. Wiring between headbox and bidirectional board also buzz out. So Im assuming there’s further issues with the bidirectional board. There is a a component or two which look a little dodgy which I’ll replace.
Is there anything else which I should be looking at?

I replaced my bi-directional board as well as the 10 opto board.

They get pretty burned up and I always look for reliability over the small cost of replacement parts if they are available.

#6613 26 days ago

New cabinet arrived for my 3rd Dr Who build from Kirk Weaver. Excellent job on the wood work. I have an extra new head unit if anyone is interested is redoing theirs.

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#6614 26 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I replaced my bi-directional board as well as the 10 opto board.
They get pretty burned up and I always look for reliability over the small cost of replacement parts if they are available.

Thanks for your response. Hoping to repair before replace. Budget on this one isn’t there sadly.

#6615 25 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Hey all, hoping someone can help.
I recently picked up a DW with a non working Time Expander. I was able to track down some faulty components and traces on the BiDirectional board and got it working, however only in CW direction. A No CCW Movement error still exists.
Everything I’ve seen/read has it not working in both directions, nothing about only working in 1 direction.
Transistors on the Driver board check out ok. Wiring between headbox and bidirectional board also buzz out. So Im assuming there’s further issues with the bidirectional board. There is a a component or two which look a little dodgy which I’ll replace.
Is there anything else which I should be looking at?

When my Time Expander stopped working it was the bi-directional motor driver. The electrolytic capacitor leaked and etched through a trace causing an open. Wasn’t too hard to repair. Pulled the capacitor, washed the board, rebuilt the traces, and installed a new capacitor. Totally worth fixing the original board.

The opto driver boards also usually have one too.

#6616 25 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

When my Time Expander stopped working it was the bi-directional motor driver. The electrolytic capacitor leaked and etched through a trace causing an open. Wasn’t too hard to repair. Pulled the capacitor, washed the board, rebuilt the traces, and installed a new capacitor. Totally worth fixing the original board.
The opto driver boards also usually have one too.

That’s 100% identical to what happened to my board, and how I fixed it.

Spent some further time on it today, cannot figure out why it only operates in one direction :-/

#6617 25 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

That’s 100% identical to what happened to my board, and how I fixed it.
Spent some further time on it today, cannot figure out why it only operates in one direction :-/

I worked on a game last year and it was only going in one direction. CW from memory. Got the board repaired by Jeremy in Wellington after checking the motor was working in both directions using a 9vdc battery. He got the board working after replacing the leaking capacitor and replacing the chip as that got damaged by the cap. The game also had leaking batteries on the mpu and burnt out gi connectors. All contributed to dodgy behaviour.

Skippy2904

#6618 25 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

That’s 100% identical to what happened to my board, and how I fixed it.
Spent some further time on it today, cannot figure out why it only operates in one direction :-/

Quoted from Skippy2904:

I worked on a game last year and it was only going in one direction. CW from memory. Got the board repaired by Jeremy in Wellington after checking the motor was working in both directions using a 9vdc battery. He got the board working after replacing the leaking capacitor and replacing the chip as that got damaged by the cap.

Thread on a different game (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-bigfoot-head) but same board. The same thing happened on that board and the damage to the LM339 at pin 1 and pin 2 is obvious. I'd suggest exactly what Skippy2904 has suggested. Cut the LM339 out, clean all the electrolyte contamination, install a socket and install a new LM339.

#6619 24 days ago
Quoted from Skippy2904:

I worked on a game last year and it was only going in one direction. CW from memory. Got the board repaired by Jeremy in Wellington after checking the motor was working in both directions using a 9vdc battery. He got the board working after replacing the leaking capacitor and replacing the chip as that got damaged by the cap. The game also had leaking batteries on the mpu and burnt out gi connectors. All contributed to dodgy behaviour.
Skippy2904

Quoted from DumbAss:

Thread on a different game (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-bigfoot-head) but same board. The same thing happened on that board and the damage to the LM339 at pin 1 and pin 2 is obvious. I'd suggest exactly what Skippy2904 has suggested. Cut the LM339 out, clean all the electrolyte contamination, install a socket and install a new LM339.

Thats gotta be it, thanks fellas!! Appreciate you chiming in.

I previously replaced a transistor, the cap and fixed some traces as you could see obvious damage. I didn't notice anything around the chip, but makes complete sense. Thanks again.

#6620 24 days ago

Couple more days and I get my game back!!!

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#6621 24 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Couple more days and I get my game back!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks awesome. Someone is doing an awesome job on you Who! Love the Blue legs! Did you get a new cabinet or a rebuild of original?

#6622 24 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

Looks awesome. Someone is doing an awesome job on you Who! Love the Blue legs! Did you get a new cabinet or a rebuild of original?

Rebuild OG. For the powder coat I went with something someone recommended in this thread a while back. It was expensive for the powder cause it’s like two different kinds layered or something. Can’t wait to see it.

#6623 23 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Thread on a different game (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-bigfoot-head) but same board. The same thing happened on that board and the damage to the LM339 at pin 1 and pin 2 is obvious. I'd suggest exactly what Skippy2904 has suggested. Cut the LM339 out, clean all the electrolyte contamination, install a socket and install a new LM339.

So I removed the chip on the BiDirectional board, cleaned the area, installed a socket, buzzed out all socket legs to their end point and all connections were good. Installed the new chip, reinstalled the board and sadly the same issue.

CW movement is ok, however CCW Movement error is still present.

Would this issue only be present due to Bi Directional board issue, or could a problem elsewhere give such an issue?

#6624 23 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Would this issue only be present due to Bi Directional board issue, or could a problem elsewhere give such an issue?

Check the solenoid drive transistors on the Power Driver board. There are two drives that work in tandem to operate the motor.

Solenoid 25 and 26. One controls enable (turns the motor on). The other controls direction. It looks like solenoid 25 controls direction and solenoid 26 controls enable.

The other place to check is the drive transistors on the BD board itself.

That's it. There's not much going on as far this feature goes.

#6625 22 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

So I removed the chip on the BiDirectional board, cleaned the area, installed a socket, buzzed out all socket legs to their end point and all connections were good. Installed the new chip, reinstalled the board and sadly the same issue.
CW movement is ok, however CCW Movement error is still present.
Would this issue only be present due to Bi Directional board issue, or could a problem elsewhere give such an issue?

If the motor is wired backwards you get the CCW error even if the motor actually works in both directions in test.

#6626 22 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

If the motor is wired backwards you get the CCW error even if the motor actually works in both directions in test.

Ohh, that could be it. Thanks!! Will check it out today.

I’d previously checked all related transistors, but did so again last night. I replaced one on the bidirectional board which tested fine but looked ready to fail. Driver board was all fine. All wires to and from the bidirectional board buzzed out fine. I’ve been scratching my head so the incorrectly wired motor could be it.

EDIT: motor wiring polarity correct :-/

#6627 22 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Ohh, that could be it. Thanks!! Will check it out today.
I’d previously checked all related transistors, but did so again last night. I replaced one on the bidirectional board which tested fine but looked ready to fail. Driver board was all fine. All wires to and from the bidirectional board buzzed out fine. I’ve been scratching my head so the incorrectly wired motor could be it.
EDIT: motor wiring polarity correct :-/

A lot of the new motors and gearboxes are wired reversed from the original factory ones.

Why, I dont know.

My IJ and ToM, and DW, were all backwards.

My TAF bookcase and Thing motors were NOT backwards...

Its a confusing world.

Now, I just test the old against the new to see what direction they run and wire accordingly.

#6628 22 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A lot of the new motors and gearboxes are wired reversed from the original factory ones.
Why, I dont know.
My IJ and ToM, and DW, were all backwards.
My TAF bookcase and Thing motors were NOT backwards...
Its a confusing world.
Now, I just test the old against the new to see what direction they run and wire accordingly.

Weird hey!! Sadly mine looks to be wired correctly

#6629 22 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A lot of the new motors and gearboxes are wired reversed from the original factory ones.
Why, I dont know.
My IJ and ToM, and DW, were all backwards.
My TAF bookcase and Thing motors were NOT backwards...
Its a confusing world.
Now, I just test the old against the new to see what direction they run and wire accordingly.

I second this finding of new motors. They have a red dot next to the terminal but that is where the black wire goes. I know this motor fits both a Circus Voltaire and a Doctor Who. I built a great 10 Opto board and Bi-directional board from @dumbass. Incase you want to go that route.

#6630 20 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Couple more days and I get my game back!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Close up of the powder coat I got. Love it!!

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#6631 20 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Close up of the powder coat I got. Love it!![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That is gorgeous! Waiting to see how good it looks on the game!

#6632 20 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

That is gorgeous! Waiting to see how good it looks on the game!

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#6633 19 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice! Any plans for the coin door? Or just leaving it black?

#6634 19 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Very nice! Any plans for the coin door? Or just leaving it black?

Just black. I think it’s okay in this case. He just touched it up a bit.

Definitely need to break down and finally get a cdmd though.

#6635 19 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Just black. I think it’s okay in this case. He just touched it up a bit.
Definitely need to break down and finally get a cdmd though.

Yeah the colorDMD LED version looks pretty good.

Installed both styles and liked the LED version the best.

I also prefer the black doors, old school I guess!

#6636 18 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Just black. I think it’s okay in this case. He just touched it up a bit.
Definitely need to break down and finally get a cdmd though.

Game looks great, I miss mine. Hope to find another.

#6637 15 days ago

I could use what is probably some basic flipper adjustment advice for DW. My upper flipper has a pretty notable lag and buzz after the lower left has flipped. The upper flipper has a new coil, bat, sleeve, stop and eos. The partial rebuild hasn't improved it yet. I'm guessing the buzzing may be something loose, but I'm not sure about the lag...thinking an opto issue with that possibly.

Any advice would be appreciated

#6638 14 days ago
Quoted from Indigod:

I could use what is probably some basic flipper adjustment advice for DW. My upper flipper has a pretty notable lag and buzz after the lower left has flipped. The upper flipper has a new coil, bat, sleeve, stop and eos. The partial rebuild hasn't improved it yet. I'm guessing the buzzing may be something loose, but I'm not sure about the lag...thinking an opto issue with that possibly.
Any advice would be appreciated

Buzzing like that usually has something to do with the coil stop.

Either its loose or worn, or not square against the plunger, or the wrong one etc.

#6639 14 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Buzzing like that usually has something to do with the coil stop.
Either its loose or worn, or not square against the plunger, or the wrong one etc.

Thank you, that makes sense. When I replaced the stop, I wasn't sure I had put on the new one or the old one. I'll take it off look and look a lot closer at the intallation.

#6640 14 days ago
Quoted from Indigod:

Thank you, that makes sense. When I replaced the stop, I wasn't sure I had put on the new one or the old one. I'll take it off look and look a lot closer at the intallation.

The coil stop has to set FIRMLY against the coil so that the coil doesnt wobble or spin much.

Sometimes I have to bend the stops so they are "square" against the coil.

#6641 14 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The coil stop has to set FIRMLY against the coil so that the coil doesnt wobble or spin much.
Sometimes I have to bend the stops so they are "square" against the coil.

How much wobble is too much? I followed vids installation guide I found and did the "squeeze the stop" into the coil as I scrwed it down. When done, it didn't seem to have any movement at all front to back, but it did have a little rotational movement, not much, but noticable. If I were to bend the stop in a vice a small amount would that also help the rotational wobble?

#6642 14 days ago
Quoted from Indigod:

How much wobble is too much? I followed vids installation guide I found and did the "squeeze the stop" into the coil as I scrwed it down. When done, it didn't seem to have any movement at all front to back, but it did have a little rotational movement, not much, but noticable. If I were to bend the stop in a vice a small amount would that also help the rotational wobble?

Well, if it sits at an angle compared to the coil, like there is a noticeable gap, top or bottom between the stop and the coil, bend the stop until its mostly square.

I have had to use a tiny hand ratchet before the get the stops to set firmly (not so tight that it smashes the bobbin).

But mostly if they are square to the coil, and pressed tightly by hand, the buzzing goes away.

If the coil seems "snug" its usually just fine.

#6643 14 days ago

So, something different happened. While checking the stop and noting that there was a very small gap at the top of the coil/stop interface compared to the base interface....I slightly bent the stop and replaced it to a much better fit, with almost no movement. When I tried the flippers it seemed to be working well with only a very light buzz compared to earlier. After about 5 flips and then holding the left flippers up for about 4 seconds, the upper flipper went dead. I killed the power and felt the coils, the lower coil was not warm at all, but the upper new coil was very warm to the touch. The lower flipper continues to work fine, but the upper is dead. I believe they are both on the same circuit, so I don't think it would be a fuse if I am mistaken. Could I have purchased a bad coil? It was an FL-15411/50V from pinballlife.

Or is it possible, I have done the EOS improperly? The leaves are open at rest and closed when the flipper is up. There is about a 1/8 resting gap when open, and the contacts appear to make great contact. It was just installed as well.

#6644 14 days ago
Quoted from Indigod:

Or is it possible, I have done the EOS improperly?

Even if you did, the fliptronics system will still turn off the high power to the coil that eos is just there to let the game know that the flipper is up (if it were not working the game just uses a fixed time to switch off the high power).

Clean your flipper cabinet opto, sometimes they let the flipper kind of be activated but not fully, which heats up the coil. You can swap left and right opto boards as a bonus if it is the upper opto when it's on the right flipper it won't matter since there's only a lower right flipper.

OT, I just noticed something today about solid state flipper design - was looking at a system 11 schematic earlier today and noticed the project engineer was Kurt Deger..... who must have been poached by Data East as DE's solid state flipper design was the 'Deger Design' (named after Kurt Deger....).

DE's solid state flipper was just a fixed time AFAIK, not sure if the early examples of it were PWM or not, or if it just switches based on time.

#6645 14 days ago
Quoted from Indigod:

So, something different happened. While checking the stop and noting that there was a very small gap at the top of the coil/stop interface compared to the base interface....I slightly bent the stop and replaced it to a much better fit, with almost no movement. When I tried the flippers it seemed to be working well with only a very light buzz compared to earlier. After about 5 flips and then holding the left flippers up for about 4 seconds, the upper flipper went dead. I killed the power and felt the coils, the lower coil was not warm at all, but the upper new coil was very warm to the touch. The lower flipper continues to work fine, but the upper is dead. I believe they are both on the same circuit, so I don't think it would be a fuse if I am mistaken. Could I have purchased a bad coil? It was an FL-15411/50V from pinballlife.
Or is it possible, I have done the EOS improperly? The leaves are open at rest and closed when the flipper is up. There is about a 1/8 resting gap when open, and the contacts appear to make great contact. It was just installed as well.

I agree that swapping opto boards is an excellent test. A flakey/dirty opto can make a coil get hot real fast.

It maybe as simple as cleaning the opto with a q-tip and windex.

Check that the flipper opto assembly is correct with a metal spring retainer, often those are missing, mis-matched or just plain assembled wrong.

I might also pull the upper mech and test the resistance of the coil against the resistance chart:

https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

I have purchased coils that were WAY out of spec from both Pinball Life and Marco.

I check them now before installing them.

I would also maybe check the diodes on the coil, but they have mostly been good.

I molex ALL of my mechs to make bench troubleshooting a breeze.

#6646 14 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Clean your flipper cabinet opto, sometimes they let the flipper kind of be activated but not fully, which heats up the coil. You can swap left and right opto boards as a bonus if it is the upper opto when it's on the right flipper it won't matter since there's only a lower right flipper.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I might also pull the upper mech and test the resistance of the coil against the resistance chart:

I'm going to try and do both of these things tonight. I'll let you know what I find.

Appreciate your help.

#6647 13 days ago

Update...I tested all the coils with my DMM...they all tested 4.2/148 (compared to 4.2/150V on the linked page)...so they look good. That included the old coil removed, the coil that was on the flipper when it died (since removed) and the other two new coils I purchased. I also pulled the entire mech, cleaned and reassembled...good tight coil. Cleaned both sets of flipper optos, tested and swapped and tested again. Lower flippers looking great, but the upper flipper still completely dead. I had assumed that the left flippers were on the same fuse since they were on the same opto...but I think I'm wrong. I'm going to pull and check those fuses tomorrow. If it does turn out to be a fuse, what kinds of things would cause a flipper to pull more current than normal and blow that fuse?

I actually enjoyed pulling the whole flipper mech and cleaning it up....gave me a little more confidence with flippers (hopefully not false confidence)

Again, thank you for all the help.

#6648 13 days ago

Upper flipper issue appears to be resolved with fuse replacementj, thank you the guideance, but I still have a few questions.....

The original coil (#1)had proper resistance values accross the leads....does that mean that coil is still good? It was removed as part of the weak laggie flipper rebuild.

The brand new coil (#2) was put in in the first rebuild where buzz noise increased and the coil got pretty hot..it was slightly loose in the mech until the stop was adjusted. Still buzzed, still hot, still slowish (not as slow as orignial) then fuse blew. After removing, it also had good resistance readings. Is it still good?

Removed the mech, cleaned all the parts, put in another new coil (#3) with good resistance readings, cleaned and swapped opto boards just in case, replaced fuse and now upper flipper is quiet, fast and strong.

I'm tempted to move the flipper optos back, just to see if it recurs, but I don't want to make problems.

Based on this history, is it an obvious single problem or is it common for multiple deferred maintainances to combine into this flipper problem?

#6649 13 days ago
Quoted from Indigod:

The original coil (#1)had proper resistance values accross the leads....does that mean that coil is still good?

In theory since a coil is just a spool of wire, with no moving parts, it may last decades without issues.

Issues that cause coil failures are usually heat or vibration or diode related.

On rare occasions a wire in the spool is cracked or missing insulation or arcing internally, and works when cool or hot but seems flakey. Very difficult to diagnose.

Damaged or dented coils should be suspect and not used.

Heat and viration can melt or wear off the shellac or lacquer insulation and cause shorts that are revealed with the ohms test.

The coil lugs can get loose or have broken solder connections, but that can be easily fixed by reheating the joint.

So, the ohms test can easily verify that a coil is good to use.

Diodes can be flakey or faulty and can also be inconsistant.

Bad diodes can be responsible for blown fuses and transistors or even heat build up.

Diodes are cheap and should be replaced if you have any doubts about a good tested coil.

Replacing diodes on a coil that "ohms out" and doesnt have a tight coil sleeve from overheating, will often make it like brand new.

#6650 11 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

...Yes, you need to find a Used MPF. And then rebuild it with the above references. Good luck.

I'd like to thank Tophervette for putting together a miniplayfield for me - in summary, I received my Dr. Who pinball machine from Richard Conger of the Silverball Ranch but it was missing the MPF and I couldn't have put things together without Tophervette spending countless hours scrounging parts and assembling it. Seriously, thank you!

I'm diagnosing what I am humorously referring to as a return of an... electromechanical dysfunction I have seen before in another context. First, here's a video that shows the inside of the gearbox and shows the amount of slip in the gear directly connected to the output shaft. The slip prevents the mini playfield from rising:

By some chance, I have some experience with a similar situation. When I first built TASBot (my robot that plays video games perfectly for charity) I used a R.O.B. robot as the base frame. Nintendo made the ROB robot with a slip gear / slip disc coupling to prevent the gears from stripping when moved manually. Without the slip disc / slip gear in place, manual movement would risk stripping the teeth on the gears or shearing other pieces. In the case of TASBot / R.O.B., I had drooping issues from too much slip when I took him to a GeekPwn talk I gave in Shanghai and have vivid memories of famed hacker Jaku running around trying to buy adhesives but only finding water glue. We attempted to correct TASbot's.. er... electromechanical dysfunction but it didn't quite work and he couldn't keep his parts up. I never did solve his ED and we rebuilt his frame from scratch instead, but I digress.

At any rate, I suspect the Dr. Who slip gear is supposed to operate on the same principle to prevent damage but in the case of this gearbox it's slipping a bit too much. Welding it doesn't seem like a great idea as it would eliminate the safety aspect, although we tried using some two part epoxy putty that didn't take as it broke loose instantly. Can this gear be replaced on its own with one with less slip but still a bit of give in case of external movement? Has anyone found any other solutions that wouldn't cause damage if a ball got stuck while the playfield was moving?

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