(Topic ID: 76377)

Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!

By HoakyPoaky

10 years ago


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  • 442 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by Tophervette
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#6351 3 months ago
Quoted from ACDNate:

‍♂️
And the plot thickens.
So I buttoned the mpf back up and reconnected the opto harness only to test before reinstalling. Now I'm back to where I was before. Optos all closed and no response to mushroom buttons.
Disassembling while on and connected i removed the 3 chutes. No change.
Removed carrier from mpf. No change
Removed screws securing opto boards on carrier. No change
Pulled opto boards from carrier. Now I can align them and open the switch by blocking the receiver.
So I pulled the old carrier and slid optos in it and it works. Problem is the mushroom post clip catches the opto leds so I can't use it.
Anyone else have problems getting the 3d printed carrier to work?

Post a picture please. Are you sure the clip is fully seated?

#6352 3 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Post a picture please. Are you sure the clip is fully seated?

Sorry already back together. The old carrier is bent. The receiver side has bent so the opto leds are closer to transmitter than they were originally. If you can visualize a U where one leg of the U is bent 10° or so closer to the other leg.

#6353 3 months ago
Quoted from ACDNate:

Sorry already back together. The old carrier is bent. The receiver side has bent so the opto leds are closer to transmitter than they were originally. If you can visualize a U where one leg of the U is bent 10° or so closer to the other leg.

I am familiar, had the game, rebuilt the assembly, had the new carrier, etc.

So is your issue the new 3D carrier, the mushroom stem, the LED Diode not flush with board?

Those of us who have had this game and rebuilt this assembly and worked with the vendors to ensure the 3D carrier was perfect and the new boards up to spec(not to say a defect can't happen), we always try to root cause the problem so the next pinsider has a quicker(hopefully) time with the same or similar issue.

#6354 3 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I am familiar, had the game, rebuilt the assembly, had the new carrier, etc.
So is your issue the new 3D carrier, the mushroom stem, the LED Diode not flush with board?
Those of us who have had this game and rebuilt this assembly and worked with the vendors to ensure the 3D carrier was perfect and the new boards up to spec(not to say a defect can't happen), we always try to root cause the problem so the next pinsider has a quicker(hopefully) time with the same or similar issue.

For some reason when the opto boards are mounted in the new carrier the mushroom post won't open the opto.

Comparing the two carriers the only variance i could see (didn't have a caliper to measure) was the led openings on the new one appeared to be slightly larger, although I'm not sure that would have an effect.

#6355 3 months ago
Quoted from ACDNate:

‍♂️
And the plot thickens.
So I buttoned the mpf back up and reconnected the opto harness only to test before reinstalling. Now I'm back to where I was before. Optos all closed and no response to mushroom buttons.
Disassembling while on and connected i removed the 3 chutes. No change.
Removed carrier from mpf. No change
Removed screws securing opto boards on carrier. No change
Pulled opto boards from carrier. Now I can align them and open the switch by blocking the receiver.
So I pulled the old carrier and slid optos in it and it works. Problem is the mushroom post clip catches the opto leds so I can't use it.
Anyone else have problems getting the 3d printed carrier to work?

You have to put a a spacer under the board to move it back a little so that the eclips dont catch..

You can use fish paper. I used 3 layers of electrical tape, cut holes for the LED's with an exacto knife.

Perfect fit.

Follow my adventures (with photos) on this thread.

Use black colored paper for the paper shroud.

#6356 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You have to put a a spacer under the board to move it back a little so that the eclips dont catch..
You can use fish paper. I used 3 layers of electrical tape, cut holes for the LED's with an exacto knife.
Perfect fit.
Follow my adventures (with photos) on this thread.
Use black colored paper for the paper shroud.

I had the same issue. The carrier was warped. I 3D printed a divider to go between each opto/mushroom combo and made it large enough to push the carrier to square. Worked perfectly. Also eliminated the need for the paper cover.

#6357 3 months ago
Quoted from ACDNate:

‍♂️
And the plot thickens.
So I buttoned the mpf back up and reconnected the opto harness only to test before reinstalling. Now I'm back to where I was before. Optos all closed and no response to mushroom buttons.
Disassembling while on and connected i removed the 3 chutes. No change.
Removed carrier from mpf. No change
Removed screws securing opto boards on carrier. No change
Pulled opto boards from carrier. Now I can align them and open the switch by blocking the receiver.
So I pulled the old carrier and slid optos in it and it works. Problem is the mushroom post clip catches the opto leds so I can't use it.
Anyone else have problems getting the 3d printed carrier to work?

Yes. If you were to go back a few pages (post 5822). I had to get smaller E clips. I had to buy 100 of them. I can send you some.

#6358 3 months ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

J130-7 goes to the Last Chance as it should.

After a lot of investigation, I found that any time a coil triggered/fired, the second chance (I inadvertently called it last chance) flashers (solenoid #6) in the back box and lower playfield between the flippers flashed along with the Doctor 3 (solenoid #8) in the back box fired/flashed also. I reverted back from LED's to incandescent bulbs and the issue went away.

I noticed from Tophervette post #6249 that there are LED flashers in the second chance sockets. I'm assuming the problem I am having he does not.

Is there anything special or different I need to do to fix the issue. I would prefer to stay with LED's.

#6359 3 months ago

Find out what kind of flashers tophervette is using and get the same kind.

#6360 3 months ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

After a lot of investigation, I found that any time a coil triggered/fired, the second chance (I inadvertently called it last chance) flashers (solenoid #6) in the back box and lower playfield between the flippers flashed along with the Doctor 3 (solenoid #8) in the back box fired/flashed also. I reverted back from LED's to incandescent bulbs and the issue went away.
I noticed from Tophervette post #6249 that there are LED flashers in the second chance sockets. I'm assuming the problem I am having he does not.
Is there anything special or different I need to do to fix the issue. I would prefer to stay with LED's.

Im running 100% LED on my game and have no issues.

But. I also have LEDOCD and GIOCD boards installed.

Uncontrolled LED's can be unpredictable. I strongly advise LEDOCD boards if you have LED's in most games.

5smd flasher towers for all #906 bulbs

8SMD tower flashers for the #89 bulbs.

ColorDMD LED version for the display.

The LED's in the topper run a bit hot. Regular 6.3v LED's burn out once in awhile but are very bright. 12v LED's in the topper are a little dimmer but last forever.

#6361 3 months ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

I noticed from Tophervette post #6249 that there are LED flashers in the second chance sockets. I'm assuming the problem I am having he does not.
Is there anything special or different I need to do to fix the issue. I would prefer to stay with LED's.

That picture of a PF in post #6249 is a game that was just finished by HEP, not mine. Looks like 5 way red flasher from Comet, but you would have to ask HEP to be sure.

1 week later
#6362 3 months ago

In my search for parts, someone showed me this buried treasure. And it is not for sale. So I am still on the hunt for that 3 Dalek target tunnel on the bottom and the metal walls on top of the MPF that direct the balls into the poppers.

So post your picture of the worst looking condition Dr Who part.

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#6363 3 months ago

I have decided to make a Doctor Who prototype version for my 3rd build. The key piece was this translite that just came up for sale. From a picture from an original article, you can see that back box was a System 11 Bally box. I had read in Pfutz's article that Williams changed the production model to their style smaller back box. You can see from the picture that the speakers are up top in the head. The DMD is still below. Notice how there is not a 7 doctors horizontal light bar above the DMD. I wonder if the flashers for the 7 doctors were behind the heads of the doctors displayed. And of course, I had just finished making/wiring a back light board for the original Back Glass translight.

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#6364 3 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

I have decided to make a Doctor Who prototype version for my 3rd build. The key piece was this translite that just came up for sale. From a picture from an original article, you can see that back box was a System 11 Bally box. I had read in Pfutz's article that Williams changed the production model to their style smaller back box. You can see from the picture that the speakers are up top in the head. The DMD is still below. Notice how there is not a 7 doctors horizontal light bar above the DMD. I wonder if the flashers for the 7 doctors were behind the heads of the doctors displayed. And of course, I had just finished making/wiring a back light board for the original Back Glass translight.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That would be fun!

#6365 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yep the boards are fairly inexpensive.
But At $65 plus shipping, I would repair this one for just a few dollars, it looks to be in very good condition.
And if it doesnt work out, its not a big investment.

It’s a good project to learn/practice some board work on an easy to handle component. The parts are dirt cheap.

#6366 3 months ago

Hi, new member here. Picked up a Doctor Who yesterday. Great condition (minus cabinet fade). Previous, previous owner had put in the color dmd, LEDs, cliffy protectors, remote battery, moving dalek (is there a way to tell the after market vs. the original moving dalek?). So not a ton of upgrades needed. Couple little things to fix.

One thing I realized is the Tardis Habitrail ramp in mine is yellow. Searched to see if there was any others with that. Only see chrome. Has anyone seen this before. Having to figure out all the mods done on this machin on my own as the owner I got it from never really played it and didn't know much about it. Hr bought it on a whim.

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#6367 3 months ago
Quoted from uxb666:

moving dalek (is there a way to tell the after market vs. the original moving dalek?)

The mechanical one will have to motor sticking thru the top of the backbox, plus it makes a bit of noise.
Its part of the original design and its operated thru the service menus and you can test it there.

The after market is just a servo motor ties into the flashers.

Both have their merits, but I MUCH prefer Mark's mechanical one.

#6368 3 months ago
Quoted from uxb666:

Hi, new member here. Picked up a Doctor Who yesterday. Great condition (minus cabinet fade). Previous, previous owner had put in the color dmd, LEDs, cliffy protectors, remote battery, moving dalek (is there a way to tell the aftermarket vs. the original moving dalek?). So not a ton of upgrades needed. Couple little things to fix.
One thing I realized is the Tardis Habitrail ramp in mine is yellow. Searched to see if there were any others with that. Only see chrome. Has anyone seen this before. Having to figure out all the mods done on this machine on my own as the owner I got it from never really played it and didn't know much about it. He bought it on a whim. [quoted image]

Hi new member. Congrats. Habitrail is supposed to be chrome. Someone powder coated yours yellow. Each to their own taste. Show us a picture of the insides of your back box towards the top, and we can tell you more. Raise the PF and take a picture of the Mini-playfield undersides. Does it play well? Is there a dot after the word "Credit" on the DMD?

Attached is a picture of the UK servo cheap Dalek mechanism.
The second picture is of the Mark Davidson Dalek mechanism inside the Dalek. Which is similar to the original. Hope this helps.

Dalek33 (resized).JPGDalek33 (resized).JPGDalek7 (resized).JPGDalek7 (resized).JPG
#6369 3 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

Hi new member. Congrats. Habitrail is supposed to be chrome. Someone powder coated yours yellow. Each to their own taste. Show us a picture of the insides of your back box towards the top, and we can tell you more. Raise the PF and take a picture of the Mini-playfield undersides. Does it play well? Is there a dot after the word "Credit" on the DMD?
Attached is a picture of the UK servo cheap Dalek mechanism.
The second picture is of the Mark Davidson Dalek mechanism inside the Dalek. Which is similar to the original. Hope this helps.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Here's the pics.

It does play well. No credit dot. It's leveled to be not so steep, so plays pretty easy. Testing it out mostly at this point to make sure everything is working.

T

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#6370 3 months ago

uxb666 - Your game looks great!

If your Dalek head moves during game play, you have this Servo version: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1059-pinballtoys/00627-doctor-who-motorise-your-static-dalek-topper-dw-wobble-head-

Not the one like an original motor and gear box. It works, I have one. But prefer the Mark Davidson one.

You have a newer MPF motor gearbox. Your MPF works like it did from the factory. The motor gearbox spins a big cam wheel. This causes the MPF to raise and lower with a wobble to the left and right as it goes up and down. You might even see scratches on the walls surrounding the MPF. darkpinball Ulf sells a Smooth lifter kit that is a great upgrade, if you are going to keep the machine longterm.

There is a company in PA, that sells the cabinet decals. He has them on Ebay, or you can buy them direct, or you can pay more getting them from a vendor.

#6371 3 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

uxb666 - Your game looks great!
If your Dalek head moves during game play, you have this Servo version: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1059-pinballtoys/00627-doctor-who-motorise-your-static-dalek-topper-dw-wobble-head-
Not the one like an original motor and gear box. It works, I have one. But prefer the Mark Davidson one.
You have a newer MPF motor gearbox. Your MPF works like it did from the factory. The motor gearbox spins a big cam wheel. This causes the MPF to raise and lower with a wobble to the left and right as it goes up and down. You might even see scratches on the walls surrounding the MPF. darkpinball Ulf sells a Smooth lifter kit that is a great upgrade, if you are going to keep the machine longterm.
There is a company in PA, that sells the cabinet decals. He has them on Ebay, or you can buy them direct, or you can pay more getting them from a vendor.

The MPF definitely has that wobble when lifting. Some day i'll get to trying a decal updte. I have a Johnny Mnemonic (another machine with a problematic device to deal with) that needs that as well.

Thanks for all the info!!!

#6372 3 months ago

If anyone is interested in getting this good rendition of what the original translite was supposed to look like, please send me a PM. I had this made for a project that got canceled. It's pretty cool in my opinion. A vast improvement over the stock translite, or many of the other ones you see on the market.

Thanks!

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#6373 3 months ago

Question on removing the plastic ramp under the playfield. I wanted to get at the bulbs on the circuit board there under the plastic. Does taking that off require removal of the MPF? The previous owner did not update those bulbs, so wondering if they didn't bother due to it being complicated to remove the plastic?

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#6374 3 months ago
Quoted from uxb666:

Question on removing the plastic ramp under the playfield. I wanted to get at the bulbs on the circuit board there under the plastic. Does taking that off require removal of the MPF? The previous owner did not update those bulbs, so wondering if they didn't bother due to it being complicated to remove the plastic?[quoted image]

uxb666 You do NOT have to remove the MPF at all. Just get your 1/4 nut driver and remove all 6 nuts. Give it a clean while it is out. Careful not to mess up the 3 roll over switches. Those have a small connector that you have to remove first.

Seeing I have several of those old 15 lamp boards, even though you change the bulb, they may not still light up. Especially if it is a whole vertical row that is out. Each bulb in the circuit has a diode next to it. These diodes are 21+ years old and they fail. So change the bulbs first. Put it GI test mode and see if replacing them did the trick before reinstalling the ramp tunnel.

#6375 3 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

That picture of a PF in post #6249 is a game that was just finished by HEP, not mine. Looks like 5 way red flasher from Comet, but you would have to ask HEP to be sure.

After a lot of swapping of bulbs, I have decided to leave in the incandescents in a couple of sockets which alleviates the problem.

So I get that squared away and now the ninth horizontal row from the bottom on the display is out. I bought new ribbon cables and replaced them all (Yea I know, overkill). Still out. Where should I start looking at?

The vertical line in the picture is the test mode line so ignore it.

IMG_1010 (resized).JPGIMG_1010 (resized).JPG

#6376 3 months ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

After a lot of swapping of bulbs, I have decided to leave in the incandescents in a couple of sockets which alleviates the problem.
So I get that squared away and now the ninth horizontal row from the bottom on the display is out. I bought new ribbon cables and replaced them all (Yea I know, overkill). Still out. Where should I start looking at?
The vertical line in the picture is the test mode line so ignore it.
[quoted image]

It is quite common that some lines not working anymore on DMDs after some time.
Usually a bad contact on the DMD glass.
Can sometimes be repaired with contuctive paint or better epoxy and some skills

#6377 3 months ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

After a lot of swapping of bulbs, I have decided to leave in the incandescents in a couple of sockets which alleviates the problem.
So I get that squared away and now the ninth horizontal row from the bottom on the display is out. I bought new ribbon cables and replaced them all (Yea I know, overkill). Still out. Where should I start looking at?
The vertical line in the picture is the test mode line so ignore it.
[quoted image]

As these 30 year old displays are failing (as expected at this age), installing a ColorDMD LED version makes the most sense.

Brand new orange displays are the same price at the new color ones.

However if you can get a used perfectly working display, it will be cheaper.

The color display looks simply amazing on this game.

#6378 3 months ago

Agree with the above comments. Once the DMD starts loosing lines, it is a domino effect. Sure you can play it missing a line or three. But it is time to upgrade to a COLORDMD. They have 2 options. LED or LCD. The LCD is harder to install and larger. The LED is the same size as the original.
I have 2 Doctor Whos side by side. One has the original orange DMD and the other has the COLORDMD. Once you see it in person, you cannot go back. I have not put a color one in one because I am trying to sell the game to make room for number 3 that I am building.

#6379 3 months ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

Once you see it in person, you cannot go back.

Well said.

#6380 87 days ago

I've had the Smooth Lifter kit for a few years now and I'm finally going to install it. Had one of the lock ball poppers burn up so just going to go ahead and pull the whole thing and get this kit installed. I grabbed their adjustable motor board also. Installing a new Mini Playfield motor. I hope this isn't to much of a pain.

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#6381 87 days ago

BertoDRINK1 - You got this. You may have to enlarge drilled holes, but that is not critical. The templates will get you close. Don't skip the blue locktite on the cam Allen screws. Don't pinch 5 Opto board wires.

Install lifter kit first with old motor board and cycle the MPF a few times using the coin door button tests. Make sure to put a piece of card board in the glass safety switch to close it with glass off.

The motor board was a challenge for me to get dialed in right. But once you figure it out, it is worth effort. I have had the MPF come down from level 3 to 2, but had hit a ball in multi ball frenzy. It gets jammed between the PF and the Dalek tunnel door. This burns up the motor or strips the brass gears. I did that with original board. But the new board reverses direction when that happens. Avoid the temptation to have the MPF speed too fast.

Tell us how it works out for you.

#6382 87 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

BertoDRINK1 - You got this. You may have to enlarge drilled holes, but that is not critical. The templates will get you close. Don't skip the blue locktite on the cam Allen screws. Don't pinch 5 Opto board wires.
Install lifter kit first with old motor board and cycle the MPF a few times using the coin door button tests. Make sure to put a piece of card board in the glass safety switch to close it with glass off.
The motor board was a challenge for me to get dialed in right. But once you figure it out, it is worth effort. I have had the MPF come down from level 3 to 2, but had hit a ball in multi ball frenzy. It gets jammed between the PF and the Dalek tunnel door. This burns up the motor or strips the brass gears. I did that with original board. But the new board reverses direction when that happens. Avoid the temptation to have the MPF speed too fast.
Tell us how it works out for you.

Thanks for the pointers. Doesn't seem to bad after going though the instructions. I'm doing a full shop job along with the install. Working on it in the evenings hopefully I can have it all done in a week or so.

#6383 85 days ago

This is just a PSA about aftermarket part that I just got. It is the outside Bracket for the MPF. While the exterior dimensions look exact, the hole spacing for where it attaches to the main PF was way off. The pads that rest on the PF were a lot larger. All the holes were too far apart. Even if you used one set of the holes and drilled a new hole, the MPF would be either too far forward or rearward. I marked the center of the pad and measured where the holes needed to be elongated so that a 8/32 screw would lock down into the T-Nuts on the MPF. I used a Dremel tool with a pinecone shaped bit to elongate the holes. The distance between the edges of the holes needs to be .835".

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#6384 85 days ago

Smooth Lifter Kit was the best install I have done in a long time. Tophervette gives great advice. Ulf has done a fantastic job and he will answer questions if you are hesitant or start and stop.

Ken

#6385 85 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

This is just a PSA about aftermarket part that I just got. It is the outside Bracket for the MPF. While the exterior dimensions look exact, the hole spacing for where it attaches to the main PF was way off. The pads that rest on the PF were a lot larger. All the holes were too far apart. Even if you used one set of the holes and drilled a new hole, the MPF would be either too far forward or rearward. I marked the center of the pad and measured where the holes needed to be elongated so that a 8/32 screw would lock down into the T-Nuts on the MPF. I used a Dremel tool with a pinecone shaped bit to elongate the holes. The distance between the edges of the holes needs to be .835".
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Read my "trials and tribulations" on building a new MPF out of NOS and aftermarket parts in this thread....

7 hours of trimming, bending, filing, sanding and leveling to get it to work properly, and still needed tweaking to get it perfect.

Getting the new inner frame and the new outer frame PERFECTLY square in ALL directions was a challenge. They were really bent up when I got them.

If either part was slightly out of square it would bind up and probably kill the new gearbox.

And dont get me started about the horrible rollers I got NOS from Marco...

Have fun!

#6386 85 days ago

Luckily the rest of the MPF parts are original. I make sure to check for squareness, though. I think I have a spare ULF Blue plastic block for the inner frame. I am going to check the rollers for wear too. I have 3 sets of them to choose from luckily.

#6387 80 days ago

Hi, I had some friends over the other night and I noticed that the Dalek head was not moving. Just lights and flashers. When I checked the Tests, menue item 15 was not there, so not sure what happened, but it looks like the machine is not detecting the motor now. Is there a troubleshooting guide for the dalek motor?

Thanks

#6388 80 days ago
Quoted from uxb666:

Hi, I had some friends over the other night and I noticed that the Dalek head was not moving. Just lights and flashers. When I checked the Tests, menue item 15 was not there, so not sure what happened, but it looks like the machine is not detecting the motor now. Is there a troubleshooting guide for the dalek motor?
Thanks

Did you re-enable it in the settings?

#6389 80 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Did you re-enable it in the settings?

Remembering that this is the UK servo version that works off the flasher circuit and not software and high voltage circuit that the Mark Davidson one does.
I will have to dig into that pile of paper to see if I still have the hand drawn wiring diagram. It may even plug into the same place as the 10 Opto board with a Z connector if memory serves me right. The +12V connection at the driver board J118-2 and its return from J118-3.

Attached are the wires going to the Dalek Board. Note the colors that you are looking for in your back box. Also see the servo and the 3 wires (Yel, Org, Br) that go to it from the board. 2 wires go to the Dalek head for the lights.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rnc5mevwuseee8p/Dr.pdf?dl=0 link to instructions....

Do you have lights or nothing at all.

Dalek29 (resized).jpgDalek29 (resized).jpgDalek31 (resized).JPGDalek31 (resized).JPGDalek33 (resized).JPGDalek33 (resized).JPG

#6390 80 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

Do you have lights or nothing at all.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Lights appear to be working fine. Lots of blinking and the flasher on the plunger is working in the tests.

I checked the connectors on the little circuit board that is mounted in the backbox. They were tight. I did not explore up into the head area or where the wires from the circuit board lead down with the rest of the wires.

The head was working at one point afeter getting the machine home. Not sure when it stopped.

#6391 80 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

Remembering that this is the UK servo version

Ahh, yes thats completely different.

#6392 80 days ago
Quoted from uxb666:

Lights appear to be working fine. Lots of blinking and the flasher on the plunger is working in the tests.
I checked the connectors on the little circuit board that is mounted in the backbox. They were tight. I did not explore up into the head area or where the wires from the circuit board lead down with the rest of the wires.
The head was working at one-point afeter getting the machine home. Not sure when it stopped.

uxb666 that tells me that you are getting +12-volt power to the board and the lights. If the bulbs in head are flashing, that tells me that you are also getting a trigger from the flasher circuit to the board. So that leaves power to the servo is not happening. So either wire going to the servo is not making connection, or there is a faulty component on the board, or the servo has gone bad (plastic gears you know). Have you read through the manual that I posted a link for. Best to contact the seller and ask for his advice.

1. Alternatively, don't spend any money on it and leave it as it is.
2. Buy another cheap servo kit and reinstall. (He sells an upgrade servo with metal gears). Sounds like he had some problems with the plastic gear ones.
3. Buy the Mark Davidson version that has a big motor (like in the MPF lifter) and metal gears that operates off the software in the game and is much more realistic and heavy duty.

DSCF3555 (resized).JPGDSCF3555 (resized).JPG
#6393 79 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

3. Buy the Mark Davidson version that has a big motor (like in the MPF lifter) and metal gears that operates off the software in the game and is much more realistic and heavy duty.

ABSOLUTE best choice IMHO....

#6394 79 days ago

What is the general consensus on the best Tru-Pitch level? Do we use 6 to 6.5 degrees like recommended? Thanks for any suggestions!

#6395 79 days ago
Quoted from Erin_H:

What is the general consensus on the best Tru-Pitch level? Do we use 6 to 6.5 degrees like recommended? Thanks for any suggestions!

There's no best pitch to use on any individual game and it's something I recommend tooling around with until you find something you like. I prefer steeper games as they generally play faster, but 6.5 is a good standard if you don't feel like messing with it at all. Going at least a little steeper (minimum 7 degrees) is good for Doctor Who so you're not able to backhand the W ramp and so the ball doesn't spend an eternity in the jet bumpers. I think pitch may also affect the trajectory of balls rolling back down the O ramp a bit; with how easy it is to shoot the ramp I'd want half-ramps to travel into the left outlane or left slingshot.

#6396 79 days ago

I don't know the actual pitch number. I go by the level and how the top bubble is supposed to touch the bottom line like the manual shows.

#6397 78 days ago

I have to brag here for a moment on an emotional high from my highest scoring game ever!!!

True I have the game set on easy mode and 5 balls. I kept hitting all the right spots over and over again. I got sonic booms and X4 scoring. I got so many multi-balls and defeated the Emperor Dalek and Davros. I was in the zone man. I even got to see the big cannon come out and shoot the left Dalek on the DMD screen. I must say that the Ron Kruzman cleared NOS Playfield changes the whole dynamic of the game. It plays so fast. The ULF smooth lifter kit makes watching the MPF raising and lowering a treat. The Mark Davidson Dalek screaming, blinking and rotating adds to the experience. The Pinsound board with the custom 12 Doctor soundtrack makes the game complete. If you are ever in Maryland, you are welcome to play the best Dr Who ever made.

DSCF3305 (resized).JPGDSCF3305 (resized).JPG
#6398 77 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

1. Alternatively, don't spend any money on it and leave it as it is.
2. Buy another cheap servo kit and reinstall. (He sells an upgrade servo with metal gears). Sounds like he had some problems with the plastic gear ones.
3. Buy the Mark Davidson version that has a big motor (like in the MPF lifter) and metal gears that operates off the software in the game and is much more realistic and heavy duty.
[quoted image]

Thanks for the tips. I'm going with #1 for now. Played a bunch of games an now have some other things to figure out. Joy. Got a reset issue happening randomly. Thinking maybe a extension chord issue as I have two regular pins and a VP machine all on the same chord coming from across the room. Also have a bad button on the service switch. So, going to replace that and see if a better extension chord makes a difference.

#6399 77 days ago
Quoted from uxb666:

Thanks for the tips. I'm going with #1 for now. Played a bunch of games an now have some other things to figure out. Joy. Got a reset issue happening randomly. Thinking maybe a extension chord issue as I have two regular pins and a VP machine all on the same chord coming from across the room. Also have a bad button on the service switch. So, going to replace that and see if a better extension chord makes a difference.

Ah...the dreaded WPC reset issue. It is a known problem with older boards as they age. Several companies even sell an adapter board to supposedly fix the issue, but they just hide the problem. https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Game_resets is a good read.

Here is a link to one of the companies that sells the Daughter Board for reset issues. But as DumbAss says, it is just hiding the real problem with your board. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1013-kahrus-circuits/00092-wpc-power-fix-daughterboard.

"Resets happen on WPC pinball machines because the Driver Board's 5 volt power supply is minimally sized for the many functions it needs to drive and MPU Boards have a watchdog circuit that shuts down the board if the voltage on the 5 volt line drops below a cutoff voltage (around 4.7 volts). The WPC Power Fix eliminates watchdog resets by moving the MPU load off the 5 volt line to the 12 volt line. This reliably satisfies the watchdog circuit and therefore the MPU board is not reset."

#6400 77 days ago

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5641-12724-00

Service button replacement. Some soldering involved. LoL.

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