(Topic ID: 76377)

Doctor Who Owners Club.....Time Lords Welcome!

By HoakyPoaky

10 years ago


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There are 6,511 posts in this topic. You are on page 105 of 131.
#5201 2 years ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

Welcome to the club of Doctor Who pinball. The plastics are most all listed on Ebay. One guy in the Russian Federation sells the whole set. Another guy sells them separately. There is pinball website in the UK that I have gotten some parts from that are not stocked at my favorite Marcos site. https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/doctor-who/?p=1 They have all the plastics too. Share a picture of your game when you get a chance.
I have an extra set of Dalek Sling shot plastics if you happen to break one. During my restoration, I chose to replace the screws and nuts with shiny new ones and added washers to the top of my plastics.

watch out on plastics from pinballcenter (besides other items including artwork)-they are known for their inferior artwork quality
Better than missing plastics but far away from the originals or good repros

#5202 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

You’re missing the entire MPF surround. It’s all one big piece that’s shaped like a U.

Thanks for the help! That’s even more annoying I don’t have that. Looking back in this thread I saw some folks had the decals but no replacement piece.

#5203 2 years ago
Quoted from ruralcollector:

Thanks for the help! That’s even more annoying I don’t have that. Looking back in this thread I saw some folks had the decals but no replacement piece.

It’s metal too. Not an easy replacement I guess.

#5204 2 years ago
Quoted from ruralcollector:

Thanks for the help! That’s even more annoying I don’t have that. Looking back in this thread I saw some folks had the decals but no replacement piece.

The force field metal surround is impossible to get.

However, one can be made out of thin stainless without too much trouble.

If no suitable donor part is available, the decal sheet would work to make up a mockup out of cardboard then proceed with metal or plastic.

If you need the decal sheet just ask.

#5205 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The force field metal surround is impossible to get.
However, one can be made out of thin stainless without too much trouble.
If no suitable donor part is available, the decal sheet would work to make up a mockup out of cardboard then proceed with metal or plastic.
If you need the decal sheet just ask.

Looks like that’s what I’m going to have to do. Thanks everyone for the help! Super disappointing but that’s my bad for not checking into things before getting this machine.

#5206 2 years ago
Quoted from ruralcollector:

Looks like that’s what I’m going to have to do. Thanks everyone for the help! Super disappointing but that’s my bad for not checking into things before getting this machine.

Maybe a nice Pinsider can have one made for you. Lots of nice people in this community. I know if I had a donor piece, I could have one made.

#5207 2 years ago

I will be needing one of these MPF surrounds in the future for a build I am attempting. Therefore, I am making a construction paper template. I have a neighbor that has a sheet metal break that will help cut and fold metal. It may take some time to accomplish this.

#5208 2 years ago

I took the MPF surround out of my game today and measured it. I traced the metal sides and wrote the measurements down on construction paper. It required cutting with scissors and taping it back together, so it is one piece to be cut out of sheet metal and then folded into shape. There is a Left, Right and Back section. The Right and Left sections get folded Down and the Back section gets folded up. Probably wise to drill the 5 holes while it is still flat. Glad I bought that package of sticker paper, so that I can make the decals I got from Pinballinreno. Will follow up once I source the stainless metal (probably Lowes or Home Depot).

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#5209 2 years ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

I took the MPF surround out of my game today and measured it. I traced the metal sides and wrote the measurements down on construction paper. It required cutting with scissors and taping it back together, so it is one piece to be cut out of sheet metal and then folded into shape. There is a Left, Right and Back section. The Right and Left sections get folded Down and the Back section gets folded up. Probably wise to drill the 5 holes while it is still flat. Glad I bought that package of sticker paper, so that I can make the decals I got from Pinballinreno. Will follow up once I source the stainless metal (probably Lowes or Home Depot).
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Make sure you add in the measurement for the bends (1/8" radius)!

Things shrink a bit after bending.

Looks great! I hope you make a couple for anyone that needs them.

After you get it perfect maybe post the template?

After cutting out the flat, Its probably possible to bend it on a vice mounted brake press?

#5210 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Make sure you add in the measurement for the bends (1/8" radius)!
Things shrink a bit after bending.
Looks great! I hope you make a couple for anyone that needs them.
After you get it perfect maybe post the template?
After cutting out the flat, Its probably possible to bend it on a vice mounted brake press?

I have asked for a template so my Tinsmith friend can make one and he can add measurements for bends based on material thickness.

This is going to be a great addition to the database.

Ken

#5211 2 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I have asked for a template so my Tinsmith friend can make one and he can add measurements for bends based on material thickness.
This is going to be a great addition to the database.
Ken

That would be great!

I think most of them (including mine) are bent up enough to merit replacement at this point.

#5212 2 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I have asked for a template so my Tinsmith friend can make one and he can add measurements for bends based on material thickness.
This is going to be a great addition to the database.
Ken

The measured thickness of the metal the MPF surround is .05 mm and 1/16 is equal to .0625 mm and it almost 24 gauge. So depending on what your metal supply is, those are you options. Hope this helps.

#5213 2 years ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

The measured thickness of the metal the MPF surround is .05 mm and 1/16 is equal to .0625 mm and it almost 24 gauge. So depending on what your metal supply is, those are you options. Hope this helps.

Hang on 1/16" equals 0.0625 inches, not mm, so the thickness is 1/2 (.05)mm and what metal guage chart are you using? Aluminum, Steel, Carbon Steel, Stainless Steel? Many are different gauges.

#5214 2 years ago

I definitely let Dr Who sit for too long. Been tied up with other projects and haven't played it for a while. On the plus side it feels fresh getting back to it but now have some maintenance to do. The lever that moves the ball at the outhole is sticking so it doesn't active the switch for end of ball. Just need to pull that apart and clean that to make sure it isn't binding or sticking.

The other is that I really need to pull out the mini playfield to check the optos and lubricate the slides. It doesn't look like it has ever been out. Been putting that off for too long and should try to tackle that over the weekend.

At least I should never have to worry about the boards. Went through those years ago and they are rock solid.

#5215 2 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Hang on 1/16" equals 0.0625 inches, not mm, so the thickness is 1/2 (.05)mm and what metal guage chart are you using? Aluminum, Steel, Carbon Steel, Stainless Steel? Many are different gauges.

You are right, I picked the first Gauge chart I found on internet. So probably wrong there.

The vernier caliper is in thousands of an inch. The reading was .050 inch. I went to the local hardware store with my caliper in hand and the closest I found thickness wise was 16 GA Weld Steel, on the label. It measured .060 inch. The other choice was .032 inch and felt too flimsy. I will be able to get two surrounds from this piece of sheet metal.

DSCF2715 (resized).JPGDSCF2715 (resized).JPG
#5216 2 years ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

You are right, I picked the first Gauge chart I found on internet. So probably wrong there.
The vernier caliper is in thousands of an inch. The reading was .050 inch. I went to the local hardware store with my caliper in hand and the closest I found thickness wise was 16 GA Weld Steel, on the label. It measured .060 inch. The other choice was .032 inch and felt too flimsy. I will be able to get two surrounds from this piece of sheet metal.
[quoted image]

Okay, phew, I am not a tinsmith lol thanks for re checking. 16GA sounds right for most steels

#5217 2 years ago

I’m absolutely amazed Tophervette at how quickly you came up with this! Awesome community support from eyeamred2u & pinballinreno too. I was really getting down on myself for missing this on the machine I picked up and seeing your work has made my week! Please put me down to buy one whenever there is one available!

#5218 2 years ago

Someone should make a 3D model of it.

#5219 2 years ago

More good news for me today! My NOS playfield is being cleared and made more perfect. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/kruzman-monthly-playfield-thread/page/35 Post 1712. My Pin Rotiseirre is in the mail. The Game is playing really well. Now if the snow and cold weather would just go away.

#5220 2 years ago

I'm looking for a source for part A-15604 "Ball Popper Ramp Assembly" (#3 in the pic). It's the metal cage that leads from the TARDIS.

I might be welding if I can't find it, and that will not be so nice.

Screenshot_20220128-133329_Foxit PDF Editor (resized).jpgScreenshot_20220128-133329_Foxit PDF Editor (resized).jpg
#5221 2 years ago
Quoted from acmeman:

looking for a source for part A-15604 "Ball Popper Ramp Assembly

I used to have one in my spare parts drawer. I'll look when I get home this weekend.

#5222 2 years ago
Quoted from bbaker2824:

I used to have one in my spare parts drawer. I'll look when I get home this weekend.

Awesome!

#5223 2 years ago

I think this is it. Send me a PM with your info and I'll send it to you. Are you missing anything else? I've got a few odds and ends sitting around.

IMG_20220128_164024 (resized).jpgIMG_20220128_164024 (resized).jpg

#5224 2 years ago
Quoted from acmeman:

I'm looking for a source for part A-15604 "Ball Popper Ramp Assembly" (#3 in the pic). It's the metal cage that leads from the TARDIS.
I might be welding if I can't find it, and that will not be so nice.
[quoted image]

Bally part number 12-7032 (its in the manual or the BOM, I cant remember...)

Get a brand new one here:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-7032

or here:

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-DW12-7032

or here:

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/bally-parts/doctor-who/12-7032.html

Great price at PPS.

#5225 2 years ago

Ok. Starting to install the smooth lifter kit. Any advice on getting the inner bracket out? Can’t seem to get the inner rollers out and afraid to force it.

#5226 2 years ago

Never mind. I got it!

#5227 2 years ago
Quoted from TheShadowsNose:

Ok. Starting to install the smooth lifter kit. Any advice on getting the inner bracket out? Can’t seem to get the inner rollers out and afraid to force it.

I had to force it open, twist it and squeeze it back together. Glad you figured it out. Make sure you get it back to square using a T-square or equivalent.

#5228 2 years ago

Update on MPF surround creation. First, 16 gauge metal that I got from hardware store is too thick to cut with hand shears. I bought a new set of hand shears from Harbor Freight. Next I dropped down to thinner sheet metal 18 gauge. The cheap Chinese hand shears had a hard time cutting any curved parts of the 18 gauge metal. I went to a metal shop next and the old equipment they had made a mess of my metal. Frustrated. Finally, going to buy an electric metal shears that is rated to do 16 gauge with fresh new blades so it won't chew up the metal. Grrr. Learning curve is steep.

#5229 2 years ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

Update on MPF surround creation. First, 16 gauge metal that I got from hardware store is too thick to cut with hand shears. I bought a new set of hand shears from Harbor Freight. Next I dropped down to thinner sheet metal 18 gauge. The cheap Chinese hand shears had a hard time cutting any curved parts of the 18 gauge metal. I went to a metal shop next and the old equipment they had made a mess of my metal. Frustrated. Finally, going to buy an electric metal shears that is rated to do 16 gauge with fresh new blades so it won't chew up the metal. Grrr. Learning curve is steep.

A local water cutting shop can cut a stack of them pretty quick, and they usually have the material handy.

#5230 2 years ago

Pindorabox optos arrived! Hope to have time this weekend to install them.

#5231 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Pindorabox optos arrived! Hope to have time this weekend to install them.

After extensive? testing, I think thats really the way to go.

#5232 2 years ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

Update on MPF surround creation. First, 16 gauge metal that I got from hardware store is too thick to cut with hand shears. I bought a new set of hand shears from Harbor Freight. Next I dropped down to thinner sheet metal 18 gauge. The cheap Chinese hand shears had a hard time cutting any curved parts of the 18 gauge metal. I went to a metal shop next and the old equipment they had made a mess of my metal. Frustrated. Finally, going to buy an electric metal shears that is rated to do 16 gauge with fresh new blades so it won't chew up the metal. Grrr. Learning curve is steep.

Angle grinder then a little cleanup, then in the tumbler to smooth the edges.

#5233 2 years ago

Ok Doctors, I pulled my mini out after I had an opto switch stop working and I just replaced both boards with new replacements. (Old boards were really beat up)

Now, my none of the mini optos are working after replacing both boards. I verified both boards are wired to the plug right and I show 10 volts to the leds and 1.5 volts to the optics.

Bad replacement boards? I’m scratching my head on this one.

#5234 2 years ago
Quoted from Niterider:

Ok Doctors, I pulled my mini out after I had an opto switch stop working and I just replaced both boards with new replacements. (Old boards were really beat up)
Now, my none of the mini optos are working after replacing both boards. I verified both boards are wired to the plug right and I show 10 volts to the leds and 1.5 volts to the optics.
Bad replacement boards? I’m scratching my head on this one.

What are the replacement boards?( Gulf, Pindora?) Did you buy a new opto carrier(black housing), usually that housing is in bad shape and can cause alignment issues and the new board LED's may not line up correctly with each other when installed.

Can see see the LED's thru your cell phone camera in the dark? Should look purpleish.

If you place the game in test mode, do you see the switch register for each opto if you break the beam?

#5235 2 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

What are the replacement boards?( Gulf, Pindora?) Did you buy a new opto carrier(black housing), usually that housing is in bad shape and can cause alignment issues and the new board LED's may not line up correctly with each other when installed.
Can see see the LED's thru your cell phone camera in the dark? Should look purpleish.
If you place the game in test mode, do you see the switch register for each opto if you break the beam?

They are Gulf boards.

I did not replace the carrier, but it does have a couple of spacers in it trying to keep it squared up.

I think I can see the leds working. It looks like a purple laser dot at the end each of the leds.

If I have the game in switch test mode, it doesn’t register those optos at all.

It could be the carrier. It may be warped just enough that the leds and optos are off enough to not see each other.

#5236 2 years ago

I have two sets of gulf boards and couldn’t get either to work. Trying the pindora box ones this weekend.

#5237 2 years ago

Finally picked up a DW recently. It was in good shape with the exception of the homemade time expander protector and the motor/gearbox was shot. I ordered the Cliffys for the game which took 6 weeks to get shipped. But it's all back together and working great!

PXL_20220128_032121478 (resized).jpgPXL_20220128_032121478 (resized).jpgPXL_20220128_032147175 (resized).jpgPXL_20220128_032147175 (resized).jpg
#5238 2 years ago
Quoted from Niterider:

Ok Doctors, I pulled my mini out after I had an opto switch stop working and I just replaced both boards with new replacements. (Old boards were really beat up)
Now, my none of the mini optos are working after replacing both boards. I verified both boards are wired to the plug right and I show 10 volts to the leds and 1.5 volts to the optics.
Bad replacement boards? I’m scratching my head on this one.

Read my posts in this thread, its enlightening.

#5239 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I have two sets of gulf boards and couldn’t get either to work. Trying the pindora box ones this weekend.

I feel your pain...

I have 3 sets of the gulf boards...all of them are crap...

I had great results with pindorabox.com and the swinks carrier. Really great products!
Rock solid after 20 months of abuse lol.

Please post your experience.

#5240 2 years ago

I just installed my Mark Davidson moving dalek mod.

Mark Davidson IS A GOD ! ! !

Im very happy with it.

Installation is for advanced builders.

But its worth every penny !

https://www.basementarcade.com/Wobble_Purchase.html

#5241 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I feel your pain...
I have 3 sets of the gulf boards...all of them are crap...
I had great results with pindorabox.com and the swinks carrier. Really great products!
Rock solid after 20 months of abuse lol.
Please post your experience.

If you want to part with a set let me know. Would be interested in taking a look at one of those.

Also looking for a donor set of original boards even if they are burned up. If you are going to trash a set I'd gladly cover shipping to get them.

#5242 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

If you want to part with a set let me know. Would be interested in taking a look at one of those.
Also looking for a donor set of original boards even if they are burned up. If you are going to trash a set I'd gladly cover shipping to get them.

$15 shipped and I’ll send you a gulf set.

#5243 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

$15 shipped and I’ll send you a gulf set.

PM sent! Now I just need to find an old original set.

#5244 2 years ago

Question about the SWINKS carrier. It looks like there are two different plastic choices. One is slightly more without the grainy appearance. Which option is everyone using? I need to order one for my machine.

#5245 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

PM sent! Now I just need to find an old original set.

I think I have an original set, I will check

#5246 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Question about the SWINKS carrier. It looks like there are two different plastic choices. One is slightly more without the grainy appearance. Which option is everyone using? I need to order one for my machine.

Buy the one that has dividers(light baffles) between each opto. It looks a little different from the original.

#5247 2 years ago

Well unfortunately this isn't the right part. I figured it was the same as on my Whitewater (I hadn't taken a pic of it so that's why I used a pic of the one on WH2O) but it's actually different, and that one doesn't fit. Here's the one used on Doctor Who:

PXL_20220202_020204527 (resized).jpgPXL_20220202_020204527 (resized).jpg

So anyone know what the part number for this is? Even searching for parts related to the Whitewater one I can't seem to find this one.

#5248 2 years ago

@ROBOTWORKSHOP

when you go to my link on my website you will get a bunch of various parts for Doctor Who:
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinkswho%3F&sort=newest

then you when you go to the first one you will have 2 material choices:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/XLTKWJTQW/doctor-who-mushroom-target-channel-upgraded?optionId=134795971

both options are suitable but just the parts are made differently:
- Black Natural Versatile Plastic - is laser bound nylon particles made in white and go through a tumbling process and then dyed black
- Black PA12 - is glue bound nylon particles made in a variety of greys and then dyed black

the second is a slightly cheaper process but just as strong and was noticeably sharper and as the Versatile process goes through a tumbling process and knocks off some of the detail where as the second goes from print to clean down, then straight to dye.

either are good for this part and I just give options because nearly everytime I don't people want options.

Hope that helps

Jady / Swinks

#5249 2 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Well unfortunately this isn't the right part. I figured it was the same as on my Whitewater (I hadn't taken a pic of it so that's why I used a pic of the one on WH2O) but it's actually different, and that one doesn't fit. Here's the one used on Doctor Who:
[quoted image]
So anyone know what the part number for this is? Even searching for parts related to the Whitewater one I can't seem to find this one.

Sorry thats a early bally/midway part, I forgot it was the older style.

01-9511c-1 plate-nut

Here you go:

https://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=01-9511-1

or:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-9511-1

#5250 2 years ago

My Dalek is ALIVE ! ! ! ! ! lol.

here is the moving dalek in test mode via the original midway/bally code.
Perfectly interfacing with the game!

Weak servo actuated solutions got nothing on this baby!

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